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Old 04-16-2013, 08:25 PM   #26
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Chase,
Do you have a header and cat recommendation for my 2013 ZL1 vert?
Like I mentioned in the opening post, Stainless Works, Stainless Power, ARH, and Kooks are all good to go in my book. Just pick your poison. Feel free to send me a PM or give us a call if you have any questions.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:12 PM   #27
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Great write up really helpful, just one question are there any negatives to the 2" header system, other than higher price?
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:17 PM   #28
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Great write up really helpful, just one question are there any negatives to the 2" header system, other than higher price?
That was my only negative. Some people are having fitment issues since it is bigger. I did not but it is a little bit of a squeeze. If you do have issues loosen up the motor mounts and slide the motor a quarter inch or so to the side to make room. If I were to do it again made stepped headers would be the way I'd go but I'm happy with my 2"ers
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:20 PM   #29
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I've been looking at lots of these... I don't see Texas Speed and Performance listed... not a recommended brand?

Thanks! Great write up!
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:36 AM   #30
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Great write up really helpful, just one question are there any negatives to the 2" header system, other than higher price?
They can be a bit more challenging to install and clearances will be slightly reduced. That is about it.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:25 AM   #31
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Chase, this is very helpful, thanks for taking the time to write this up. Question, I see some brands listing HF Cats and others just list them as Cats, is there such a thing as HF and what are the benefits? And I second Ice99's question about TSP?
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:34 AM   #32
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Aftermarket cats = high flow (HF) whether they are the ones that bolt up to the stock exhaust manifold (Solo or JBA) or cats that bolt onto long tube (LT) headers.

Simply stated, the benefits are in the name; they flow the exhaust gases better than the stock cats. They also keep you emissions legal except for more restrictive states like California.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:39 PM   #33
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Thanks RJT!
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:48 PM   #34
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Chase, this is very helpful, thanks for taking the time to write this up. Question, I see some brands listing HF Cats and others just list them as Cats, is there such a thing as HF and what are the benefits? And I second Ice99's question about TSP?
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Aftermarket cats = high flow (HF) whether they are the ones that bolt up to the stock exhaust manifold (Solo or JBA) or cats that bolt onto long tube (LT) headers.

Simply stated, the benefits are in the name; they flow the exhaust gases better than the stock cats. They also keep you emissions legal except for more restrictive states like California.
RJT-SS pretty well nailed that one Thapilot. Anything you buy aftermarket if going to be high flow. I do not have any hands on experience with TSP headers so I am not in a position to comment on them.
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:12 PM   #35
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Thanks RJT!
My pleasure. This site really has great information and vendors. Do some searching around the forums and you will learn a LOT about our cars. Good luck!
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:45 PM   #36
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My pleasure. This site really has great information and vendors. Do some searching around the forums and you will learn a LOT about our cars. Good luck!
Couldn't agree more. This community has become an incredible knowledge base on these cars.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:12 PM   #37
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Great write up, good info. 1 7/8 Stainless Power here and couldn't be happier .
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:22 PM   #38
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They can be a bit more challenging to install and clearances will be slightly reduced. That is about it.
I'm an inch off the ground which one would you suggest since I'm so low I want to do 2" too
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:59 PM   #39
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Great write up! Thanks. What's your thoughts on LT, HF CATS, mid-pips,add resonator wth muffler delete for street ?
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:17 PM   #40
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Hmmmm.......still not convinced.......

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Originally Posted by Apex Chase View Post



Selecting long tube headers can be an intimidating task and does require some technical knowledge, but it isnít the voodoo some make it out to be. In this post I will try to arm you with as much information as I can to help you decide on the best option for you and your ride. If you have any questions after reading it feel free to send me a PM or give us a call at the phone number in my signature.


Which Manufacturer Should I Go With?

The good news here is that this is hard to get wrong. Ask around on the forums and you will hear some of the same brand names over and over again. Stick with brands like Stainless Works, Stainless Power, ARH, and Kooks and you will be fine. From a performance stand point all of these brands are pretty close, no one has a secret sauce that makes one of them produce substantially better results than any of the others. In terms of quality, again, most of them are pretty close in this area as well. If you are looking at other brands though here are some of things to pay close attention to.

Pay attention to what they are made from. Stainless steel (particularly 304) is what you will want to look for. 304 stainless steel will not rust or discolor from exposure to the atmosphere like the cheaper 400 series stainless steel. Unlike aluminized steel, it will not rust from the inside out due to the corrosive fluids produced during combustion. 304 can discolor slightly from getting extremely hot or if you spill engine oil on them but another attribute is that it isnít permanent.

Pay attention to how they are made. CNC mandrel bending is the best manufacturing method for producing exhaust systems and headers that flow and fit well. When this process is used in conjunction with the 304 stainless steel it allows for the use of a thinner wall tubing that will weigh less than other headers. Those weight savings will be lost, however, if you opt for ceramic coating. With 300 series stainless steel the coating isnít needed for corrosion resistance purposes (ceramic coating is often pushed because the manufacture is using inferior material) and I have never seen some of the claimed reductions in under hood temperature scientifically demonstrated in hard numbers. It looks great and they cool off quickly, that is about the sum of it.


What Primary Diameter Should I Go With?

This is the area that seems to cause the most confusion but it is fairly straight forward. Header manufacturers usually offer two or three options when is comes to primary diameters for a specific vehicle. For example, for the Camaro SS most manufacturers are offering 1 3/4 inch, 1 7/8 inch, and 2 inch primaries. Below are some pretty typical numbers for what you can expect on an otherwise stock SS:


Stock: 370 RWHP 375 RWTQ
1 3/4 headers with high flow cats: 400 RWHP 405 RWTQ
1 7/8 headers with high flow cats: 410 RWHP 410 RWTQ
2 headers with high flow cats: 415 RWHP 410 RWTQ


As you can see, simply switching from the restrictive stock manifolds to 1 3/4 long tube headers is worth approximately 30 RWHP and 30 RWTQ on a bone stock Camaro SS. The larger the primary diameter gets the more air the headers will flow and the further up the RPM range the power band is moved. The more powerful the engine is the more beneficial it is to go with a larger diameter, especially when you introduce forced induction. This means that generally the more power you make or the more race oriented your application is the bigger primary diameter you need, the closer to stock or the more street oriented the smaller primary diameter you need.

In the specific example of the 5th Gen Camaro SS, we have found that the 1 7/8 long tube headers are the best all around header for the typical bolt on modified car that is street driven regularly and occasionally taken to the track. They offer a tremendous improvement over stock with room to grow as the car is further modified. The 2 inch headers offer very similar numbers to the 1 7/8 headers up to 5000 RPM where the 2 inch headers pull ahead. They are ideal for those running forced induction or for race applications.


High Flow Cats or Cat Delete (Off Road Pipe)

With modern high flow cats there is essentially no performance advantage to a cat delete. They flow 99.9% as well as straight pipe. On a dyno you might see 1-3 rwhp in the mid RPM range. Going with a cat delete does cost less but the biggest draw back for street driven cars in my opinion is the rotten egg smell of running without cats. Others are the potential legal issues and the inability to pass emissions testing and inspections. For track cars none of these are a concern so save the money and apply it elsewhere but if your car is used primarily on the street high flow cats are probably your best bet.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:47 PM   #41
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Very informative! I need to dump the stock exhaust and make this thing sound like it should! Could you recommend a complete set-up from headers to tips?
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:36 PM   #42
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After the LTs and HF cats, it really depends on the type of sound and volume you are looking for. For example, a Borla ATAK catback system is loud and raspy....a Stainless Works Retro Chambered catback is loud, deep, and rumbling. On the other end is something like a Borla Touring is just slightly above stock. There are many quality systems out there. You just need to listen to as many as you can, in person if possible, and pick what you like.

Keep in mind that all systems will be amplified by LTs anf HF cats. Check out the exhaust sticky with a good set of ear buds to get some ideas.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:16 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by RJT-SS View Post
After the LTs and HF cats, it really depends on the type of sound and volume you are looking for. For example, a Borla ATAK catback system is loud and raspy....a Stainless Works Retro Chambered catback is loud, deep, and rumbling. On the other end is something like a Borla Touring is just slightly above stock. There are many quality systems out there. You just need to listen to as many as you can, in person if possible, and pick what you like.

Keep in mind that all systems will be amplified by LTs anf HF cats. Check out the exhaust sticky with a good set of ear buds to get some ideas.
Very helpful! Thanks
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:27 AM   #44
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Great write up, good info. 1 7/8 Stainless Power here and couldn't be happier .
Quote:
Originally Posted by MYDLIFECRISIS View Post
Very informative! I need to dump the stock exhaust and make this thing sound like it should! Could you recommend a complete set-up from headers to tips?
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJT-SS View Post
After the LTs and HF cats, it really depends on the type of sound and volume you are looking for. For example, a Borla ATAK catback system is loud and raspy....a Stainless Works Retro Chambered catback is loud, deep, and rumbling. On the other end is something like a Borla Touring is just slightly above stock. There are many quality systems out there. You just need to listen to as many as you can, in person if possible, and pick what you like.

Keep in mind that all systems will be amplified by LTs anf HF cats. Check out the exhaust sticky with a good set of ear buds to get some ideas.
RJT-SS nailed it once again. It really depends on what kind of sound you prefer. Feel free to send me a PM or give us a call it you would like to discuss it in more detail.
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:52 AM   #45
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I've been looking at Stainless Works Headers With 2" Primaries And 3" Catted along with their 3" cat back exhaust for my ls3 which will have a vararam intake by the time i get that set up. Do you think that it would actually detrimental rather than beneficial to get the Stainless Works Headers With 2" Primaries And 3" Catted instead of the Stainless Works Headers With 1-7/8" Primaries And 3" Catted because of the size? Both cost relatively the same.
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Old 04-22-2013, 01:28 PM   #46
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I've been looking at Stainless Works Headers With 2" Primaries And 3" Catted along with their 3" cat back exhaust for my ls3 which will have a vararam intake by the time i get that set up. Do you think that it would actually detrimental rather than beneficial to get the Stainless Works Headers With 2" Primaries And 3" Catted instead of the Stainless Works Headers With 1-7/8" Primaries And 3" Catted because of the size? Both cost relatively the same.
Consider your long term goals for your car before deciding what you buy because you can handle a lot of HP with a 2.5" exhaust. Also, while it is relatively rare, there could be a clearance issue on the headers so a 1 7/8" vs a 2" buys you an 1/8" of clearance right out the box.

I don't have a header or exhaust size preference either way. I just think knowing where you are heading with your engine will help answer the question more clearly.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:47 PM   #47
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Consider your long term goals for your car before deciding what you buy because you can handle a lot of HP with a 2.5" exhaust. Also, while it is relatively rare, there could be a clearance issue on the headers so a 1 7/8" vs a 2" buys you an 1/8" of clearance right out the box.

I don't have a header or exhaust size preference either way. I just think knowing where you are heading with your engine will help answer the question more clearly.
Again, RJT-SS kills it.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:23 PM   #48
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If you race your car then 1 7/8" will get you in the low 10's if not the 9's so make sure to buy what you can afford at the end of the day.

Here is Padre SS running 10.3's with JBA 1 7/8" LT's and FULL exhaust so the 409ss should not a deal breaker. SLP products are 409ss and I see none of their parts failing on this forum.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...highlight=jba*
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:57 PM   #49
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If you race your car then 1 7/8" will get you in the low 10's if not the 9's so make sure to buy what you can afford at the end of the day.

Here is Padre SS running 10.3's with JBA 1 7/8" LT's and FULL exhaust so the 409ss should not a deal breaker. SLP products are 409ss and I see none of their parts failing on this forum.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...highlight=jba*
1 7/8" is definitely sufficient for the vast majority of Camaros running around out there.

No one is suggesting 400 series stainless steel is so poor that it will quickly fall apart or fail. It is OEM grade so it will have a decent service life. It will surface rust pretty quickly though and it may have to be replaced at some point while you own the car. Neither of those will ever happen with 300 series. It is a give and take like anything else.
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:16 PM   #50
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but if i got the 2" then the power gains would still be as significant if not more on a N/A engine as the 1 7/8"?
by the way thank you for the input.
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