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Old 05-01-2013, 12:46 PM   #18
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Please see above...
We posted at the same time.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:48 PM   #19
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We posted at the same time.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:50 PM   #20
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Ok guys-

There seems to be a big misunderstanding over the difference between hazing and curing on here lately.

You want to let it haze on the paint for 30 minutes. Then you wipe it off.

THEN you let it CURE for 12-24 hours before you apply anything over top.
Good point but at 1:33 he says "we did pretty much 30 minutes, it's a little cold today so we wanted to make sure that it's fully CURED"

Not trying to be augmentative, I will be doing mine Fri and want to make sure I have it right.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:54 PM   #21
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Good point but at 1:33 he says "we did pretty much 30 minutes, it's a little cold today so we wanted to make sure that it's fully CURED"

Not trying to be augmentative, I will be doing mine Fri and want to make sure I have it right.
He misspoke, and I'm sure he'd be the first to admit that as a mistake. This is why detailing terminology is so frustrating, ESPECIALLY in the internet age where everything you say is permanently recorded. One slip of the tongue and you've confused 10,000+ people. Hell, Sal Zaino built an empire off of selling misbranded products, Turtle Wax does the same, NuFinish, the list goes on and on.

But if you're doing it this weekend, this is what you want to do:

Polish
Apply sealant
Let it haze up for approximately 20-30 minutes, depending on ambient temp and humidity
Buff off
Let it set overnight
If you see any hazing or streaks the next morning, go over it again with detail spray and a microfiber towel (this sometimes happens as it cures)
You're now free to apply another coat, wax, etc.
But ALWAYS wait 12-24 hours after applying a coat of sealant before you apply anything else.

Sealant---->Sealant; Wait 12 hours
Sealant---->Wax; Wait 12 hours
Wax------->Wax; Go for it

So, given the hassle of waiting so much, what I normally do is apply my sealant. Then I'll drive the car until my next wash. Then apply another coat of sealant. Drive it til the next wash, then apply my wax. This way I'm not messing around waiting idly, and I'm always sure I'm applying my next coat to perfectly clean paint.
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:07 PM   #22
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Thanks. I was originally planning on geting as far as sealent on Fri, then glaze and wax sat or sun. I will stick with plan A.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:07 PM   #23
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Our Machine Sealant needs to cure for 12-24 hours, but the aerosol Quick Sealant doesn't need nearly that long to cure. That's one of it's greatest benefits...that you can layer a glaze/wax over it in the same day instead of waiting overnight.
I know CamaroDreams07 has mentioned this earlier as well, but why would one want to apply a glaze AFTER a sealant?

Wouldn't the logical thing to do be to lock in the glaze with a sealant on top of it instead?
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:36 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by POWERMAN View Post
I know CamaroDreams07 has mentioned this earlier as well, but why would one want to apply a glaze AFTER a sealant?

Wouldn't the logical thing to do be to lock in the glaze with a sealant on top of it instead?
You should follow the manufacturer's directions.

Most call for glaze before sealant, whereas Adam's calls for glaze after sealant.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:48 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by POWERMAN View Post
I know CamaroDreams07 has mentioned this earlier as well, but why would one want to apply a glaze AFTER a sealant?

Wouldn't the logical thing to do be to lock in the glaze with a sealant on top of it instead?
Synthetic sealants are engineered for longevity in mind, first and foremost. To get the most life out of them, they need to "bond" to your paint...which is where the cure time being discussed in here comes into play. The curing process is when the sealant does it's bonding.

If you layer a sealant over a glaze for instance (which only lasts weeks rather than months) then the sealant will begin to degrade at the same rate the glaze does, which is relatively quickly in comparison.

Our recommendation is:

  • Seal to create a long-lasting barrier to build upon.
  • Glaze to add depth and gloss to your finish.
  • Wax to amplify the depth and gloss of the glaze, as well as lock everything in. Think of the wax as your final barrier between the environment and your paint.


Simple enough, right?


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Old 05-01-2013, 06:53 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick@Adams View Post
Synthetic sealants are engineered for longevity in mind, first and foremost. To get the most life out of them, they need to "bond" to your paint...which is where the cure time being discussed in here comes into play. The curing process is when the sealant does it's bonding.

If you layer a sealant over a glaze for instance (which only lasts weeks rather than months) then the sealant will begin to degrade at the same rate the glaze does, which is relatively quickly in comparison.

Our recommendation is:

  • Seal to create a long-lasting barrier to build upon.
  • Glaze to add depth and gloss to your finish.
  • Wax to amplify the depth and gloss of the glaze, as well as lock everything in. Think of the wax as your final barrier between the environment and your paint.


Simple enough, right?


Ok I wish somebody would provide some evidence to one side or the other on this. Todd from Autopia will argue the opposite, that sealants actually bonding or cross linking to paint is a myth. Obviously you're both well respected in this area, so I don't understand how we can still have this disagreement in this day and age of science and tech. This isn't a matter of opinion, it either does or it doesn't.

I will say I have found no difference in longevity whether sealant is applied first or after glaze. This makes my personal belief that sealant does not actually bond to paint, or if it does, it's not enough to impact long term performance.

Also when you have every single company on one side of the debate and only Adam's on the other... Idk.

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Old 05-01-2013, 08:32 PM   #27
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Is it OK to covert he car while the sealant is curing so that dust doesn't settle on the car if there will be a few days between sealant and wax?
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:45 PM   #28
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Is it OK to covert he car while the sealant is curing so that dust doesn't settle on the car if there will be a few days between sealant and wax?
You'd be better off to just do a waterless wash when you're ready to do the next step. Covers scratch 100% of the time.

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Old 06-13-2013, 12:28 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07 View Post
He misspoke, and I'm sure he'd be the first to admit that as a mistake. This is why detailing terminology is so frustrating, ESPECIALLY in the internet age where everything you say is permanently recorded. One slip of the tongue and you've confused 10,000+ people. Hell, Sal Zaino built an empire off of selling misbranded products, Turtle Wax does the same, NuFinish, the list goes on and on.

But if you're doing it this weekend, this is what you want to do:

Polish
Apply sealant
Let it haze up for approximately 20-30 minutes, depending on ambient temp and humidity
Buff off
Let it set overnight
If you see any hazing or streaks the next morning, go over it again with detail spray and a microfiber towel (this sometimes happens as it cures)
You're now free to apply another coat, wax, etc.
But ALWAYS wait 12-24 hours after applying a coat of sealant before you apply anything else.

Sealant---->Sealant; Wait 12 hours
Sealant---->Wax; Wait 12 hours
Wax------->Wax; Go for it

So, given the hassle of waiting so much, what I normally do is apply my sealant. Then I'll drive the car until my next wash. Then apply another coat of sealant. Drive it til the next wash, then apply my wax. This way I'm not messing around waiting idly, and I'm always sure I'm applying my next coat to perfectly clean paint.
I'm doing the clay to sealant thing for the first time in my life....using a PC for the first time too. These threads are great.

I'm a bit nervous and don't want to mess anything up. I bought a PC kit from Adam's. I have Swirl and Haze remover, Fine Machine Polish, and Machine Super Sealant. For the clay I have the speedy clay cloth and clay lubricant. I don't want to screw anything up.
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:07 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Rangore View Post
I'm doing the clay to sealant thing for the first time in my life....using a PC for the first time too. These threads are great.

I'm a bit nervous and don't want to mess anything up. I bought a PC kit from Adam's. I have Swirl and Haze remover, Fine Machine Polish, and Machine Super Sealant. For the clay I have the speedy clay cloth and clay lubricant. I don't want to screw anything up.
Take your time. It will be hard to mess things up with a PC, so just watch the videos again, relax and take your time.
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:27 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick@Adams View Post
Synthetic sealants are engineered for longevity in mind, first and foremost. To get the most life out of them, they need to "bond" to your paint...which is where the cure time being discussed in here comes into play. The curing process is when the sealant does it's bonding.

If you layer a sealant over a glaze for instance (which only lasts weeks rather than months) then the sealant will begin to degrade at the same rate the glaze does, which is relatively quickly in comparison.

Our recommendation is:

  • Seal to create a long-lasting barrier to build upon.
  • Glaze to add depth and gloss to your finish.
  • Wax to amplify the depth and gloss of the glaze, as well as lock everything in. Think of the wax as your final barrier between the environment and your paint.


Simple enough, right?


Never thought of it that way, but thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07 View Post
Ok I wish somebody would provide some evidence to one side or the other on this. Todd from Autopia will argue the opposite, that sealants actually bonding or cross linking to paint is a myth. Obviously you're both well respected in this area, so I don't understand how we can still have this disagreement in this day and age of science and tech. This isn't a matter of opinion, it either does or it doesn't.

I will say I have found no difference in longevity whether sealant is applied first or after glaze. This makes my personal belief that sealant does not actually bond to paint, or if it does, it's not enough to impact long term performance.

Also when you have every single company on one side of the debate and only Adam's on the other... Idk.
So there's no such thing as locking in a glaze by sealing after uh?
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:51 PM   #32
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I tend to agree with Todd on this situation. My understanding is that a glaze is kinda like that final polish/cleaner that helps with remove the small micro elements that are left on the paint. It also helps fill some of those micro abrasions. With this it gives the clear coat that pure clear finish. Sorta like making the clear coat look like a perfect piece of glass over the paint, and makes it so that light won't reflect. So then when the sealant goes over the glaze it is helping to lock in the glaze. Now that is not saying that a glaze isn't doing the same thing when putting on a sealant but then what is protecting the glaze. You might as well skip the glaze and use a spray carnuba or a hybrid sealant like CG V7.
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:39 PM   #33
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Glaze seems to have two meanings... some say its simply a product that is meant to beautify paint and mask imperfections and has a very temporary effect. Others treat is as an extremely mild abrasive used as a last step product.

For the latter, I don't see the point so the only glazes I've ever found use out of are the ones that cater to the first prescribed definition, such as Adam's Brilliant Glaze and Poorboy's Blackout.
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:11 PM   #34
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Never thought of it that way, but thanks!



So there's no such thing as locking in a glaze by sealing after uh?
When did I say that

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