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Old 05-02-2013, 04:48 PM   #15
CyberPunk223
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okay, so some people are using the ZISL cables to attach to a signal processor like,.....
LC7i, LCQ-1, RE-Q5, or JBL MS-8,,,
jesus I dont want to spend another $150 on one of these things, feels like throwing money away, would be better off putting money towards a new HU.

but I think Jeepguy_1980 & Ecko04 used these to plug right into their amp.... which sounds dangerous to me unless the amp is really designed for that and I dont think many of them are.
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:42 PM   #16
crashprime
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberPunk223 View Post
okay, so some people are using the ZISL cables to attach to a signal processor like,.....
LC7i, LCQ-1, RE-Q5, or JBL MS-8,,,
jesus I dont want to spend another $150 on one of these things, feels like throwing money away, would be better off putting money towards a new HU.

but I think Jeepguy_1980 & Ecko04 used these to plug right into their amp.... which sounds dangerous to me unless the amp is really designed for that and I dont think many of them are.
If you don't treasure the stock look of your head unit, then yes, your money is VERY MUCH SO better invested in a new HU. It's my opinion that the Scosche and Metra kits look TERRIBLE, and clash with the Camaro interior and ruin the overall look of the center console. (In my most humble opinion of course... no offense to those who choose this route.)

The reason to spend the money on one of those LOC's is this:



The image comes from TeamTCA's build. It's the non-BA headunit EQ curve. This means you are feeding a pre-EQ'd signal to your amps, and will have little control in adjusting that curve. One solution might be (I haven't looked into it because I just threw up my arms and said screw it .. go balls to the wall with the JBL MS-8) is to replace the stock non-BA headunit with a stock BA headunit. I don't know if they need to be reset/reflashed or if it will drop right in without modification, but the stock BA headunit spits out a flat EQ'd signal, because all of those EQ settings happen at the amplifier.

Jeepguy used a JL HD900/5. This amp takes speaker level inputs via RCA. It has a switch to allow it.

Ecko04 used a JL XD400/4. This amp also takes speaker level inputs via RCA.

Your amp (the KAC-8405) will take speaker level inputs but it's not via RCA. It's via a little input area in the upper right corner of this picture. The amp should come with a little adapter to connect up speaker wire to that plugin. (See where it says "SP LEVEL INPUT" next to the white colored RCA's.)



The adapter that will come with your amp:



Thus, you won't need to use the ZISL. Instead you will run regular speaker wire (or to make things easy 9 conductor speed wire .. which is basically just a bundle of speaker wires) connected up with butt connectors.

This is what I am doing to input into my MS-8, because it too takes speaker level inputs via a little adapter spot that looks very similar to yours.

Last edited by crashprime; 05-02-2013 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:02 PM   #17
CyberPunk223
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wow, great info, thanks,, I agree, I hate the looks of the Metra & Schocse, they look cheap... if they were better looking then I would definitely be into getting a whole new HU.


I figured out what the difference is between a cheap signal converter like the PAC is and am expensive processer like those listed above.. the difference is the PAC simply converts the signal to a lower voltage while the processer actually adjusts the signal for better sound..

I don't know, I think I'll just try the bass booster on the Amp, if I'm not happy the Processer could be a really easy add on since everything will be accessible in the truck.

My last question is where should I connect power from for the PAC?? the Accessory plug by the shifter would be really east but then you would have to turn the ignitron all the time just to play the stereo which would be lame,,,, there has to be a better place.... and I hate the fuse box on this car, I could barely get a tap in for my radar detector and there's no way I'm getting a 2nd in there..

I don't really understand why the PAC needs a separate power line anyway, it's already interfacing with the stupid factory harness so why doesn't it just get it's power from that? could I tap the PAC power wire into it's own harness somehow so it can get it's power from the factory radio circuit?

Last edited by CyberPunk223; 05-02-2013 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:17 PM   #18
CyberPunk223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashprime View Post
I thought the AA-GM44 was going to be a perfect solution for me too.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...1&postcount=33

Turns out it's a POS. You're better off using speaker level inputs.

HOWEVER ... you did not waste money on the AA-GM44, because it's an excellent T-Harness, so you can splice into your factory wiring without actually cutting any factory wiring.

thanks for the advice, this is what I'm going to do..... does everyone agree using the speaker level inputs on the Amp is better than using the PAC Converter?
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:58 PM   #19
CyberPunk223
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well folks, I got my PAC, I thought there was something I wasn't understanding about this & now I know,,

I called PAC tech support and Learned that this kit is only meant to use with a Sub amp, that's why if you use this for a 4 channel amp it will sound bad,, I'm not even sure how you would connect this to a 4 channel amp in the first place because there's no connection point on this thing for wiring up the power to the speakers, you would have to modify the harness to do so.,, that's why I've been so confused.. because I swear I read that this was meant to connect a 4 channel amp to a factory HU but the Tech help guy said no, just a sub amp.

but anyway what I'm going to do is as mentioned before,, modify the "T" harness and just run speaker level inputs into my amp, and not use the PAC unit at all.... I could have just bought the 2 harness halves off amazon and saved $15 or more but then I would have to solder all these wires instead of just the speaker ones.

I could still use the PAC just as a signal converter but there's no need to, it would only complicate the install.

Also the Kenwood amp I bought is suppose to have signal sensing turn-on so I'm going to try and utilize that feature first rather than running a Blue Power line from my cig-lighter.

However

Last edited by CyberPunk223; 05-07-2013 at 06:59 PM.
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