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Old 05-04-2013, 08:12 PM   #1
mattyjman
 
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Stereo Gurus - FARK Questions

I suppose I should have asked this long ago, but I'm looking for answers to the following questions:

I've heard the HU (2013 MYLINK Touch screen/ BA Premium) outputs a 8v "BALANCED INPUT" signal to the amp vs sending a more common unbalanced signal? Is this true? (here is a reference post explaining the difference - everything is accurate except the last line about it not existing in car audio - since 2007, it is quite common)

If so, I am wondering what the FARK 3.0 does to this signal when it turns into RCA pigtails... it looks like the kit just splices the wires. If so, am I to understand that the signal that is going to my processor and/or amps is this same 8v balanced signal?

If this is incorrect, what type of signal exactly will my amps be seeing?

I was also told that the amp needs to stay plugged in to ensure operation of the back up sensors, chimes, bluetooth, etc... I'm wondering how this is carried out exactly, as my new system is replacing ALL of the speakers in my car and/or I'll be disabling them. More specifically, I will be unplugging the center channel, removing the 6x9's, and will only be powering my new setup. At this point, what function is happening that makes the amp a necessity to keep plugged in?

Let's start here and see if this doesn't spurr any other questions.
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:44 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattyjman View Post
I suppose I should have asked this long ago, but I'm looking for answers to the following questions:

I've heard the HU (2013 MYLINK Touch screen/ BA Premium) outputs a 8v "BALANCED INPUT" signal to the amp vs sending a more common unbalanced signal? Is this true? (here is a reference post explaining the difference - everything is accurate except the last line about it not existing in car audio - since 2007, it is quite common)

If so, I am wondering what the FARK 3.0 does to this signal when it turns into RCA pigtails... it looks like the kit just splices the wires. If so, am I to understand that the signal that is going to my processor and/or amps is this same 8v balanced signal?

If this is incorrect, what type of signal exactly will my amps be seeing?

I was also told that the amp needs to stay plugged in to ensure operation of the back up sensors, chimes, bluetooth, etc... I'm wondering how this is carried out exactly, as my new system is replacing ALL of the speakers in my car and/or I'll be disabling them. More specifically, I will be unplugging the center channel, removing the 6x9's, and will only be powering my new setup. At this point, what function is happening that makes the amp a necessity to keep plugged in?

Let's start here and see if this doesn't spurr any other questions.
The FARK harness just splices the cables into RCA's. However, I believe that they are unbalanced as the signal is still low level.

The stock radio produces the chimes, not the amp. So for the chimes, replacing the amp is fine, but you'll need to leave the gains at or very near 0 unless you want a very loud, annoying chime. The chime frequency is around 750hz, so an EQ will make it even worse.

Bluetooth is handled by a separate module (called PDIM I think) and is unaffected by amp replacement.

Back up sensors are supposedly retained when using the FARK (my car does not have them, so I can not confirm). So it goes to reason that the stock radio is handling the back-up sensors as well.

So, in conclusion, take out that stock amp and kill it with fire.

Hope that helps.
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:55 AM   #3
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The FARK harness just splices the cables into RCA's. However, I believe that they are unbalanced as the signal is still low level.
this is the MOST important piece of information I am looking for... and I need to be sure.


Quote:
The stock radio produces the chimes, not the amp. So for the chimes, replacing the amp is fine, but you'll need to leave the gains at or very near 0 unless you want a very loud, annoying chime. The chime frequency is around 750hz, so an EQ will make it even worse.
there has to be a more acceptable solution than just leaving gains at zero...
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Old 05-05-2013, 05:21 AM   #4
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The amp can be replaced and nothing is affected.

The FARK harness can be used and nothing is affected (I'm using it for my sub input).

As for your specific questions, I don't know.
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:01 PM   #5
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this is the MOST important piece of information I am looking for... and I need to be sure.




there has to be a more acceptable solution than just leaving gains at zero...
Well, like I said, they are already low level signals, so I'm pretty sure they are unbalanced.

As for the chime volume, the only solution I found is a new head unit. The stock head unit applies the chime to the left front speaker output. I guess another solution could be sending your head unit off to be reprogrammed - check out this post by TCAudio.
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:07 PM   #6
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Gains do not have to be at zero. I have my xd400/4 around 1/4 and it is perfect. that is why I recommend it because it is so easy to install and get great results. It is however important to pick a suitable amp that is not too powerful. Because remember that the chime sound is an amplified signal so if you stay with an amp around 60-75w (like the xd400/4) you will be fine. For those who don't heed my warning and install an amp with a 100+watts per channel, those are the guys that are getting the loud chimes because they are simply sending too much power and the chime signal itself is being amplified to extreme levels.
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:09 PM   #7
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steve, what channel does the chime come through?

can you address the other questions in the my OP?
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:15 PM   #8
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I'm pretty sure it's the drivers side door speaker that gets chimed. I don't hear anything in the rear speakers. Is this the case?
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:57 PM   #9
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thanks crash... is that the same for the back up sensors?
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:59 PM   #10
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Well, like I said, they are already low level signals, so I'm pretty sure they are unbalanced.

As for the chime volume, the only solution I found is a new head unit. The stock head unit applies the chime to the left front speaker output. I guess another solution could be sending your head unit off to be reprogrammed - check out this post by TCAudio.
I give up - no one reads my posts . Chime comes out left front channel, you can have your head unit reprogrammed to lower the chime volume.

Best of luck.
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:10 PM   #11
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Who offers the reprogram service? I was planning on taking the rear L/R signal as an input into my audio processor, so it would take the chimes out of my car to avoid the issue entirely, but I didn't realize there was someone doing this as a service.
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:03 PM   #12
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I give up - no one reads my posts . Chime comes out left front channel, you can have your head unit reprogrammed to lower the chime volume.

Best of luck.
well, if that's the case, the easiest solution is to not use the front outputs, and use the rear instead. if you have 4 channel, just use the pass through on your amp, or use pigtails to give you the other set of channels. there isn't anything unique about the front vs rear...
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:04 PM   #13
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so, i'm still curious about a definitive answer about the outputs (STEVE from ********, you should know this since you have an adapter and all...)

and the back up audio, if thats the rear or the front.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:41 AM   #14
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so, i'm still curious about a definitive answer about the outputs (STEVE from ********, you should know this since you have an adapter and all...)

and the back up audio, if thats the rear or the front.
Back up audio comes through the rear speakers.
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