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Old 05-07-2013, 09:15 PM   #631
HOCKY42
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I have the 2010 Camaro too and took it back because of the knocking noise coming from the front end. The dealer in Las Vegas, NV replaced the Rack and Pinion. When I got it back I thought all was repaired but the service writer had a bulletin he printed of line about the knocking and no fix was possible at the moment. This was back in 2010 when I first got the Camaro brand new. It will still happen if I am not paying attention and I hit a bump to fast. Makes me cringe and hope I didn't break anything. Please add me to any list as well.
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:16 PM   #632
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Originally Posted by MCamaro View Post
Guys,

I just purchased my 2SS Camaro last week. With 15 miles on it I took it back to the dealer. At first they didnt know what it was. But I insisted that they find out something or I was going to give the car back to them.
They quickly advised me that Chevy came out with a Service Bulletin and acknowledged that the new 2013 models do have a Front strut issue. There is no fix for it at this time. They also said that GM Engineers are working on this issue night and day until they have a resolution.
Well thats all I know for now!!
Your dealer should have this information now.

Document ID: 3405388
#PIC5819A
2013 Camaro Built After October 1, 2012

Condition / Concern


On vehicles built after October 1, 2012 a repetitive clicking or popping noise may be heard in the front of the vehicle at low speeds.

Recommendation / Instructions

Replace the front strut or struts. Parts have been revised and all old stock was purged.

IMPORTANT: Do NOT replace the upper mount - it is NOT the cause of the condition.
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:21 PM   #633
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Originally Posted by mpiersd View Post
Add me and my 2LT/RS to the growing list. It's a 2010, picked it up 3 weeks ago and noticed the problem right away going over a speed bump after picking it up.
Had less than 2800 miles on it when I got it.
Description of the noise is nearly verbatim of what i read in this thread so far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HOCKY42 View Post
I have the 2010 Camaro too and took it back because of the knocking noise coming from the front end. The dealer in Las Vegas, NV replaced the Rack and Pinion. When I got it back I thought all was repaired but the service writer had a bulletin he printed of line about the knocking and no fix was possible at the moment. This was back in 2010 when I first got the Camaro brand new. It will still happen if I am not paying attention and I hit a bump to fast. Makes me cringe and hope I didn't break anything. Please add me to any list as well.
I have yet to lay my hands on a Camaro with a strut noise we were not able to resolve by following this procedure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
I do understand that some Camaros have a noise in the front end. There was a change in the upper insulator. The original was a flat rubber washer. The new improved part is a stamped steel and urethane part. Having written that, when we install Pedders coilovers we through those in the garbage. Yes we throw away both the flat old original rubber and new urethane and stamped steel upper insulator and have no one complain about the noise. We have replaced some flat rubbers to with the new improved part to isolate the cabin from an internal strut hydraulic flutter. The flutter noise is not a bang or clunk and it does not in any way impact the performance of the vehicle. The flutter was found in the early months of production and has been addressed. I don't consider either of these to be a defect or a real problem with a part. They are minor evolutionary changes that I would expect from a manufacturing company. Neither one would account for the types of noises being reported here.

With the exception of a handful of early production vehicles (upper insulator change out) the rest have been fixed on the spot with an impact gun and some grunt behind a couple of wrenches. If you can make the trip out here, I'll meet you at my Fredericksburg Pedders Dealer. We'll go over your front end and make your noise go away by making everything tight to my standards. I have posted a checklist for this. It just takes some time to work through. You can watch the process, take pictures and or video. It ain't a rocket science fix. I'll pay for the shop time. We just need to get you here to Heath's shop during the week.

NOTE: There are a large number of C6 members that have posted in this thread with noises AND aftermarket parts. Installing aftermarket parts requires the disassembly of the OE parts. Those with aftermarket parts should be in a separate thread or make it abundantly clear in their posts.

Camaro Front End Noise Correction

Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane.

Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator.

Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components.

Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here.

1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate.
2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight.
3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons.
4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun.
5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down.
6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight.
7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight.
8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight.
9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight.

The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There is NO issue with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:18 PM   #634
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ive got this issue ;(
major thunking on passenger side when going over small speed bumps.
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:45 AM   #635
Mohamed Sharaf
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I have the same issue with my 2012 2LT/RS and it is still exist!!
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:55 PM   #636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuskSS View Post
ive got this issue ;(
major thunking on passenger side when going over small speed bumps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mohamed Sharaf View Post
I have the same issue with my 2012 2LT/RS and it is still exist!!

Camaro Front End Noise Correction


Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane.

Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator.

Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components.

Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here.

1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate.
2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight.
3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons.
4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun.
5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down.
6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight.
7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight.
8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight.
9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight.

The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There is NO issue with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun.
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:52 PM   #637
DuskSS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post

Camaro Front End Noise Correction


Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane.

Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator.

Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components.

Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here.

1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate.
2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight.
3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons.
4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun.
5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down.
6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight.
7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight.
8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight.
9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight.

The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There is NO issue with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun.
This is a brand new 4k old 13.
No damage at all and under warranty except powertrain of course.
I would not have the resources to do any of this.
Dealer or a shop would have to check.

Screw it time to pedderize with the pace car pack.



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Old 05-09-2013, 04:54 PM   #638
JusticePete
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuskSS View Post
This is a brand new 4k old 13.
No damage at all and under warranty except powertrain of course.
I would not have the resources to do any of this.
Dealer or a shop would have to check.

Screw it time to pedderize with the pace car pack.



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Pace Car Pac Plus

The coilover stack is a bit different when using our new Dual Bearing Camber Plates. Discard the gold tone washer supplied with your Pedders coilovers. All you'll use in the assembly stack are the bumpstop, boot, plastic coil insulator, lower spring perch with banded thurst bearing, the camber plate and special nut supplied with the camber plate.



The assembled coilover with dual bearing camber plate looks like this from the side.



And this from the top.

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Old 05-09-2013, 05:30 PM   #639
DuskSS
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Cool Owen at ARD is the person that will be doing all that for me.

Thanks though.

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Old 05-09-2013, 05:38 PM   #640
JusticePete
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuskSS View Post
Cool Owen at ARD is the person that will be doing all that for me.

Thanks though.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
Owen is my H-Town Dealer He'll do a very good job for you.
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:04 PM   #641
Mohamed Sharaf
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Where can I find an Owen in Riyadh?

Mine has 3.5k, 5 months old 2012, and I believe that I've started to notice the sound after the first 500k if I am not mistaken!!

I've taken it to the agency, and test drove it with a mechanic beside me but I couldn't get it to happen with him beside me :'( The sound existed at that test drive but it wasn't that loud that only I heard it!! He told me that he would love to fix it for me but he just can't hear it and can't get something fixed without knowing the issue (long stroy), at the end he added, don't worry if it is going to cause more damage with time, we will fix all the damaged parts under warranty for free :/ I was like the damage that it might be caused by that sound isn't the only thing concerning me, it is the sound that bugs me!!
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:20 PM   #642
JusticePete
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mohamed Sharaf View Post
Where can I find an Owen in Riyadh?

Mine has 3.5k, 5 months old 2012, and I believe that I've started to notice the sound after the first 500k if I am not mistaken!!

I've taken it to the agency, and test drove it with a mechanic beside me but I couldn't get it to happen with him beside me :'( The sound existed at that test drive but it wasn't that loud that only I heard it!! He told me that he would love to fix it for me but he just can't hear it and can't get something fixed without knowing the issue (long stroy), at the end he added, don't worry if it is going to cause more damage with time, we will fix all the damaged parts under warranty for free :/ I was like the damage that it might be caused by that sound isn't the only thing concerning me, it is the sound that bugs me!!
Sounds like a mechanic willing to work with you. Print out these instructions and take them with you to the Agency. In the USA you get better results if you show up with a couple dozen donuts, a gallon of coffee and the instructions


Camaro Front End Noise Correction

Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane.

Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator.

Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components.

Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here.

1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate.
2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight.
3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons.
4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun.
5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down.
6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight.
7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight.
8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight.
9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight.

The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There is NO issue with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun.
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:15 PM   #643
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Smile Mine is fixed (for now?)

Here is the exact rundown of work done via the invoice. Underlined the part where the noise went away.

"Tightened all subframe bolts - noise still present. Tightened sway bar mounts - noise still present. Removed sway bar end links - noise still present. Tightened steering rack - noise still present. Tightened left lower control arm to subframe bolts - noise no longer present. Road tested multiple times, noise no longer present. Re-installed all removed components. Road tested, no abnormal noise at this time."

Hope this helps someone, and hopefully that's all it was and it doesn't come back. The guy at Carr Chevy said that it was just some loose bolts on my control arm...we'll see if it comes back.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:52 PM   #644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Sounds like a mechanic willing to work with you. Print out these instructions and take them with you to the Agency. In the USA you get better results if you show up with a couple dozen donuts, a gallon of coffee and the instructions


Camaro Front End Noise Correction

Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane.

Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator.

Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components.

Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here.

1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate.
2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight.
3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons.
4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun.
5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down.
6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight.
7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight.
8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight.
9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight.

The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There is NO issue with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun.

Thanks for this. I will schedule time in the local auto craft shop when I get the chance, hopefully this will resolve the issue.
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