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Old 02-09-2013, 07:32 PM   #26
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10 s ?

I wanna run fast-- just dont know how fast all motor ? next is a fast intake manifold and if not 10s -- I might put a blower (small boost) stock bottom end on and maybe a small shot of nitrous.
Then if still not in 10s a built block and big boost.

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Old 02-09-2013, 07:51 PM   #27
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I would just do a ported ls3 manifold.. i wouldnt waste with a fast unless you go bigger cubes.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:06 AM   #28
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What's with the header exhaust leak thread?
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:40 PM   #29
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Installed my ported cnc heads and had a leak even before
That,-- tried to fix with different gaskets and now the it's worse

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Old 02-18-2013, 02:39 PM   #30
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Have you tried new gm gaskets? Do you have any pictures of the issue?
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:22 PM   #31
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heads

Well installed my ported heads and still have a leak from the headers------look at DRIVER SIDE header--its the second one right below hand---there are black spots at the BOTTOM
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:44 PM   #32
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Not clear on what you are pointing out. Have you had any contact with OBX about the situation?
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:02 PM   #33
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obx

emailed OBX ---they have no phone number
I bought thru amazon and emailed them too.
so far only response is amazon said they contact--OBX
I enlarged pic it leaks at the bottom---BLACK SPOTS
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:37 PM   #34
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great build so far. hope you get your header problem taken care of!
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:37 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by onebad1le View Post
emailed OBX ---they have no phone number
I bought thru amazon and emailed them too.
so far only response is amazon said they contact--OBX
I enlarged pic it leaks at the bottom---BLACK SPOTS
Read threads on forum where these headers sometimes need to be machined to sit flat on the block.

tramtwo posted this on the go
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:54 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onebad1le View Post
emailed OBX ---they have no phone number
I bought thru amazon and emailed them too.
so far only response is amazon said they contact--OBX
I enlarged pic it leaks at the bottom---BLACK SPOTS
Certainly is a header leak there. Man, I know how much effort you must have put into the install, and it sucks, that it will have to be done again. Good luck.
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:01 PM   #37
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new mods

well, fixed header leak had to resurface it and now its good (and new gasket)
after going thru 2 sets of rims and both making all my check engine light come. Just went to discount tire and bought some 20x10 drag wheels for my
305/35/20 mickey thompson II . Just went for test drive and wow the stock tires are junk for traction compared to these mickey thompsons.
1st gear let the clutch out a a little and drop the hammer---zero spin--hit second
sticks like glue---might need a new clutch lol
The stock would just light up ------ like on ice
Now back to the track and hope fully the dyno this week or next
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:06 PM   #38
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glad you got it figured out
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:10 PM   #39
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You keeping the original wheels and tires?
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:25 PM   #40
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Just my 2 cents, nice build by the way, but if you go with a good set of long tubes like Dynatech's, Kook"s or ARH's you will pick up about 20 more h.p. than those you put on.
Your leak issue is not the only problem with them, they just welded up a bunch of tubes and made sure they fit the application, they were not designed or engineered to make power, they are just a low cost alternative. Yes they do increase your power over the stock manifolds, but your leaving power on the table if you dont put the best on. There is a reason why the name brands cost so much more, and thats because of the time spent to ensure they make max power.
Back in '10 I was involved in an independant comparison of long tubes, 1 SS, 11 sets of long tubes, 1 base tune for long tubes. Over the course of 2 days we switched out all 11 sets and dyno tested them. Results were a low of 18 rwhp gain to a high of 44 rwhp gain, the 3 brands I named earlier were in the 40+ rwhp gain, all the others were less. I'm not here to knock any of the other brands so I wont name them, you just stated you had a goal of going 10's and if thats the case you cant leave horsepower on the table.
I've gone 10.80's and it took 713 rwhp, M/T dr's, and a track that was prepped perfectly. I've run on other tracks and had traction issues that have dropped me in the low 11's.
Good luck with your build.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:01 AM   #41
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Just my 2 cents, nice build by the way, but if you go with a good set of long tubes like Dynatech's, Kook"s or ARH's you will pick up about 20 more h.p. than those you put on.
Your leak issue is not the only problem with them, they just welded up a bunch of tubes and made sure they fit the application, they were not designed or engineered to make power, they are just a low cost alternative. Yes they do increase your power over the stock manifolds, but your leaving power on the table if you dont put the best on. There is a reason why the name brands cost so much more, and thats because of the time spent to ensure they make max power.
Back in '10 I was involved in an independant comparison of long tubes, 1 SS, 11 sets of long tubes, 1 base tune for long tubes. Over the course of 2 days we switched out all 11 sets and dyno tested them. Results were a low of 18 rwhp gain to a high of 44 rwhp gain, the 3 brands I named earlier were in the 40+ rwhp gain, all the others were less. I'm not here to knock any of the other brands so I wont name them, you just stated you had a goal of going 10's and if thats the case you cant leave horsepower on the table.
I've gone 10.80's and it took 713 rwhp, M/T dr's, and a track that was prepped perfectly. I've run on other tracks and had traction issues that have dropped me in the low 11's.
Good luck with your build.
Please don't share bad info. Obx, tsp, arh, kooks, sw, sp, they all make the same power give or take 5hp, not 20. Get serious.
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:52 PM   #42
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Phew someone else chimmed in LOL! I was about to get Kooks instead of stainless works...psshhh
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:24 PM   #43
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WOW, this is AWESOME.
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:35 PM   #44
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Build

Thanks car running great dyno 430 on a mustang dyno and 460 on a dyno jet .
Raced other cars saying 480 hp
And we are dead even on the street ,hopefully going to do FI soon
New best time at track for far was 12.8 at 113 car still bogging off line
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:55 PM   #45
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Thanks car running great dyno 430 on a mustang dyno and 460 on a dyno jet .
Raced other cars saying 480 hp
And we are dead even on the street ,hopefully going to do FI soon
New best time at track for far was 12.8 at 113 car still bogging off line
Hmm something does not seem right. All that work, estimated 80-90 whp over stock and only a 12.8 @ 113? I would have liked to see you run the car stock for a comparison.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:26 PM   #46
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car

Well the car is set up for FI not all motor and only got to race at the track
3 times launch at 2000, 2500 and 3k all of them bogged,and only shifted at 6200 rpm each shift--- next time I go to track will start at 3k and go from there. I think it should run with a good lauch and shifts maybe a 12.2 or 12.1
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:37 PM   #47
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Well the car is set up for FI not all motor and only got to race at the track
3 times launch at 2000, 2500 and 3k all of them bogged,and only shifted at 6200 rpm each shift--- next time I go to track will start at 3k and go from there. I think it should run with a good lauch and shifts maybe a 12.2 or 12.1
Ahhhhh I think you had another thread about your 60fts and bogging off the line. Good luck next time out.

I pick up my 1LE this week and will get some bone stock baselines in the next few weeks for comparison.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:31 PM   #48
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times

hey post your times--- when u go and u will find out street and track are two different animals also the 1LE stock rev limit is 6700 compared to stock
6200
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