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Old 05-18-2013, 11:03 AM   #18
So Cal Camaro
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Make sure you bleed your brakes between events to ensure you have no issues at the track...
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:12 PM   #19
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Motul 600 is far superior to ATE.

Hawk HT10's or DTC 60/70's will be MUCH better on the track than the HP pluses, although they're not good for the street. You'll love running a dedicated track pad so much that you won't mind the small extra effort to swap back to a street pad when you get home from the track.
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Old 05-18-2013, 01:02 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Jim968 View Post
Motul 600 is far superior to ATE.
.
Is this based on facts or an opinion?

I have run ATE Super Blue in my last 4 track cars and two race cars with zero fluid issues and without bleeding during a race weekend. I like the super blue as it is easy to see when the stock fluid is run out and the blues fills the lines....when you bleed it a second time you just grab the Yellow and run that through the lines and so on.

I have never used Motul but have heard good things as well...

-Matt
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:43 PM   #21
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Is this based on facts or an opinion?
Facts. I have extensive experience with both fluids. ATE boils in my race car and Motul RB600 doesn't. The specs prove it out:

ATE dry boiling point 536, wet boiling point 396

Motul RB600 dry boiling point 593, wet boiling point 420

If you're not boiling your ATE you're not trying hard enough
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:55 PM   #22
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Since no one has answered your other question I will.

As far as a remote resivoir, I would suggest doing it since it will keep your brake fluid much cleaner and prevent ABS issues down the road. I put in the tick stainless high flow clutch line, ideal garage high flow master clutch cylinder and JDP's remote resivoir. My clutch problems are gone like the second gear grind and the clutch pedal not wanting to return all the way up after depressing it under high revs. Yes, you can use motul as clutch fluid.

I would also suggest changing the trans fluid. I used GM fluid to keep my warranty but it helped a ton and my shifting is way smother now.

Here is a pic with trans fluid, rear diff fluid and additive part numbers in case you want to do the same.
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:44 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Jim968 View Post
Facts. I have extensive experience with both fluids. ATE boils in my race car and Motul RB600 doesn't. The specs prove it out:

ATE dry boiling point 536, wet boiling point 396

Motul RB600 dry boiling point 593, wet boiling point 420

If you're not boiling your ATE you're not trying hard enough
Or I have had sufficient cooling and the proper set-up

Yes, both wet and dry boiling points are higher, but only marginally. Without knowing your specs and set-up it doesn't mean you don't have another issue with cooling, brakes size vs weight of the car ect that is causing the fluid to boil. If you are within 60 degree of your boiling point I am willing to bet there is another variable effecting the temps.

What does your race car weight, what is the brake set-up and at what track or tracks?

-Matt
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:22 PM   #24
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If u dont mind the cost get the motul. Castrol SRF is great too but problem with both is they are hard to find locally and u need three four bottles to bleed entire system. Ate is more readly available and comes in 1 liter cans enough for entire system plus some.

I would highly suggest AGAINST titanium shims. Ti does not transfer heat, which means ur rotor and pad will have to take on more heat. This is not good, entire point of better brake fluid is so u dont have to use ti shims etc and allow a higher heat capacity of ur brake corner.

Finally, the 1LE has a small disc splash shield like the ZL1, ducts will not work with it. If u do go for ducts, dont use the fog lamp cover for air inlet, use the front lower grill portion like the zl1. Day and night in how fast and cool ur air is for rotor cooling.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:29 PM   #25
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Or I have had sufficient cooling and the proper set-up

Yes, both wet and dry boiling points are higher, but only marginally. Without knowing your specs and set-up it doesn't mean you don't have another issue with cooling, brakes size vs weight of the car ect that is causing the fluid to boil. If you are within 60 degree of your boiling point I am willing to bet there is another variable effecting the temps.

What does your race car weight, what is the brake set-up and at what track or tracks?

-Matt
My race car is a Porsche 968. Primary track is Mid Ohio, but I've been all over. Minimum weight with driver ranges from 3,000 to 3,236 depending on which series I'm running. The car has the big brake option, which is Brembos that are roughly the same size as the ones on our Camaros. Cooling is ducted from inlets on the front of the car.

Trust me the car is set up. In it I have 32 class wins, two regional championships and one national championship. Many of my competitors are using Castrol SRF which is the best fluid out there, but ridiculously expensive. The rest of us use Motul. I don't know any serious racer who is still using ATE.

What car(s) are you racing?
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:04 PM   #26
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1.Front 3 inch cooling ducts connected to dust sheild. As others have done on Camaro 5

2.Giro Disc titanium pad sheilds
I ran 2.5 inch ducts and the duct still rubbed on the control arms. I have never heard anyone using 3 inch ducts. I'm not sure how you could even route it without having clearance problems. 2.5 inch was hard enough.

Check out Hard Brakes TI pad shields too. I have front and backs and they really seemed to help. Nothing scientific, but after doing a run I could touch my wheels by the hubs whereas before it was too hot to touch.
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:04 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim968 View Post
My race car is a Porsche 968. Primary track is Mid Ohio, but I've been all over. Minimum weight with driver ranges from 3,000 to 3,236 depending on which series I'm running. The car has the big brake option, which is Brembos that are roughly the same size as the ones on our Camaros. Cooling is ducted from inlets on the front of the car.

Trust me the car is set up. In it I have 32 class wins, two regional championships and one national championship. Many of my competitors are using Castrol SRF which is the best fluid out there, but ridiculously expensive. The rest of us use Motul. I don't know any serious racer who is still using ATE.

What car(s) are you racing?

Started SCCA IT cars in the last 90s/early 2000s....Got asked to drive at a NASA event in the mid 2000s for a shop and found out about the the TT format. For budgetary reasons, to keep from swapping paint and to raise a family I last ran TTS. Last event was in 2007 @ Grattan. I only instruct and run HPDEs now.

The Evo below was the heaviest car I had tracked and it weighed in at 3420 with me in it, It also had the same/similar 4 pistons calipers as a Camaro and brake ducts as well....I only used ATE Super Blue fluid in it and at that last event at Gratton in 2007 I ran a 1.27.1 (before the repave).....The only NASA car faster on Saturday was the SU Shannon (1:24.x) pictured and on Sunday it was the Shannon again and then the AIX Mustang from Pauls with a 1.26.9

The point is, I used ATE Super Blue in a heavier car than your 968 with similar calipers to your 968 and the Camaro. I drove the car hard, ran faster than all of the NASA classes (SEE BELOW) that weekend with the exception of 1 SU car and 1AIX car and I had zero issues with the brakes or fluid.

Now that was 6 years ago and I have a heavier 1LE to slow down....Motul maybe in my future.

Note: the last one is a picture of your car at Grattan on the same weekend in 2007, we exchanged pleasantries as I admired your car..
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Old 05-19-2013, 04:34 PM   #28
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I appreciate all of the feedback!~! After doing my research and having to spend money on my Harness Bars, Harness, Helmet, Hans ETC. I think I am going to start with just Upgrading pads, Cooling,Lines, and Fluid. I will give it a go at Homestead and let you all know how it worked out,.Next Upgrade will be RB 2 Piece Rotors and maybe their rebuild kit with SS Pistons
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:31 PM   #29
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FYI: This is a pretty good site that has all of the fluids and gives a description and specs for each brake fluid.

http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid.shtml

-Matt
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:41 AM   #30
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I've had my 1LE at 2 track days at NJMP thunderbolt so far. I have braided stainless lines, a separate clutch reservoir, and amsoil 580 degree fluid, otherwise brakes are completely stock. If I start really getting on the brakes late I get fade, but not too bad. As a little background info, I'm over 130 on the straight, and my lap times are consistent 1:40's. I'm going to try adding brake ducts more for preservation of pads/rotors than anything else because honestly, the stock setup is not that bad.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:37 AM   #31
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. ...................I'm going to try adding brake ducts more for preservation of pads/rotors than anything else because honestly, the stock setup is not that bad.
I learned a couple of items specific to the 1LE when adding brake ducts.

The air from the lower grille area is faster and cooler than the air near the fog light openings...(which is listed in a post above also)

The 1LE dust shield (aka rotor backing plates) are the same small ones used on the ZL1. (you can see this if you climb under the car or take a wheel off) This would explain why the ZL1 air duct that enter from the lower grill and dumps/directs air through the fender liners works.

I priced everything out yesterday and will be ordering the parts next week to figure out how to mount them in the SS/1LE front end.

This will require some fab work as the ducts will not match up directly to SS front end.......DIY.project thread in the future...

-Matt
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:52 PM   #32
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Use Motul 600 and your track pad of choice. I can't believe e stock pad will hold up to serious track use.
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:51 PM   #33
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Use Motul 600 and your track pad of choice. I can't believe e stock pad will hold up to serious track use.
Is a stock Brembo not an upgrade to a truly stock pad?
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:47 PM   #34
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Use Motul 600 and your track pad of choice. I can't believe e stock pad will hold up to serious track use.
GM uses Ferodo HP1000 on the 1LE. Not a race pad, but much better than 97% of the stock pads out there
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