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Old 05-21-2013, 07:28 AM   #26
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I run the OD cog and stock 3.8 pulley up front on my Maggie. I also have the JRE blower cam, and Kooks headers no cats. Currently making 9.6 psi peak boost. I would like to reduce boost by about 1 psi as I am on the edge with my fuel system and I can't hook up the power on the street anyway...
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:50 PM   #27
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dont stress on how much boost you're making. If its too much for your taste get a larger blower pulley, but on the 11psi range and a stock motor (guessing) Youd better be running meth or a really good tune (yet i havent calculated dynamic compression ratio with your cam) Just make sure you have enough fuel pressure and stable WOT AFR and timing (no knock) and you should be good.

That cam you have will seem to make good top-end, which is a good combination with a PD blower since you already make awesome low-end.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:40 PM   #28
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I'm have a 223/235 .610/.620 115. Ported heads, OD Cog and stock front pulley and I'm at 10.5 psi.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:42 AM   #29
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Quote:
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OD Cog drive is worth 3.5 lbs of boost. Stock 3.8 Pulley with the Maggie in 6lbs of boost. 3.6 Pulley adds another 3lbs or so of boost. I run 12-12.5 lbs of boost, with Meth as safety.

How much did the meth lower lower you intake air temps and does it keep them down after some WOT.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:16 PM   #30
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I have twin Turbo so may be a bit different..I saw my IAT go from 200+ degrees all the way down to 130 degrees on 80+degree days. Haven't tipped over 130 since the install, even while hot lapping

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:12 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mchlgrrsn View Post
How much did the meth lower lower you intake air temps and does it keep them down after some WOT.
Methanol injection is a highly efficient chemical intercooler. By injecting methanol into the inlet of a supercharged car, intake air temperatures (IAT’s) can be reduced by more than 80% (depending on ambient air temperatures) and allow your tuner to run more timing and therefore making more HP. Secondly, Methanol burns at the equivalent of 110 octane fuel, effectively halting detonation that can be present with lower octane fuels and finally Methanol works to keep your engine cleaner, and helps remove carbon deposits that can form on piston tops, which can effective change engine compression and combustion properties.

Alky Control Systems come with a boost referenced, progressive meth controller which automatically releases increasing amounts of methanol as boost increases. This progression ensures smooth and even fuel delivery so that the transition or power remains smooth all the way up to redline.

And from what I've seen so far, it DOES keep my IATs down after several WOT runs. I have no regrets with this system.
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:31 PM   #32
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Great description and explanation. I am running an AEM injection system on mine which also has a boost progression switch. Turns on @ 3psi and full blast @ 12psi.

Also with the the Meth injection you mid water. Water actually pulls more heat of the block while the alcohol cools the air. If dialed in correctly it is a great combination.

All I did was bolt on a Meth injection kit, sprayed a 50/50 water and Meth mixture (washer solvent), no tuning done... and o gained 4mph in the 1/4 mile due to IAT staying down and my timing not being pulled. I will be getting some tuning done to really dial it in later in June. Hoping for a little more bump.

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:57 PM   #33
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Thanks for the responses. I need a plan for IAT. Normal driving I'm about 30 to 50 degrees over outside temp. Haven't seen track or WOT temps yet. My tuners plan (who does everything the expensive way lol) is to add a larger resivior in trunk and add either a larger heat exchanger or add a second exchanger. See what that does and then if needed add meth. I like the resivior idea because I can pack with ice at the track, not sure about putting more stuff in front of my radiator. Wondering if I should skip my tuners advice and go straight to meth because I am guessing it will still be needed after I do the other stuff. Any suggestions will be more than welcome. Thanks.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:01 PM   #34
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My suggestion. Start with the Meth. 3 benefits of it are higher octane, cooling, and cleaning the engine.

A second or bigger reservoir only cools the air.

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:14 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mchlgrrsn View Post
Thanks for the responses. I need a plan for IAT. Normal driving I'm about 30 to 50 degrees over outside temp. Haven't seen track or WOT temps yet. My tuners plan (who does everything the expensive way lol) is to add a larger resivior in trunk and add either a larger heat exchanger or add a second exchanger. See what that does and then if needed add meth. I like the resivior idea because I can pack with ice at the track, not sure about putting more stuff in front of my radiator. Wondering if I should skip my tuners advice and go straight to meth because I am guessing it will still be needed after I do the other stuff. Any suggestions will be more than welcome. Thanks.


The large resi in the trunk works well. It keeps my IAT's in check and I spin the balls off the blower. Starting iats are below ambient before I stage the car. This ice chest is the main reason my car can run about the same times in any weather from -1000 da to 4000 like at camaro fest 3. It's not that bad price wise.

You can always add race gas to decrease any chance for detonation and to increase power.

Last edited by Supercharged SS; 05-24-2013 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:26 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjer22x View Post
My suggestion. Start with the Meth. 3 benefits of it are higher octane, cooling, and cleaning the engine.

A second or bigger reservoir only cools the air.

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.

Agreed, and if you go ALKY Control you can call Julio Don, the owner, make your custom set up, as these aren't cookie cutter, one size fits all kits, and pick his brain. The man is a wealth of knowledge and has educated me about the Meth system from scratch.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:18 PM   #37
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The large resi in the trunk works well. It keeps my IAT's in check and I spin the balls off the blower. Starting iats are below ambient before I stage the car. This ice chest is the main reason my car can run about the same times in any weather from -1000 da to 4000 like at camaro fest 3. It's not that bad price wise.

You can always add race gas to decrease any chance for detonation and to increase power.
Good to hear. I haven't had much luck skipping my tuners advice. He has been pretty much hell bent to put this large resivior in. He is confident it will work. It is not real complicated or expensive. I'll see what it does and hopefully it does the trick.
Thanks for all responses.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:32 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Mchlgrrsn View Post
Good to hear. I haven't had much luck skipping my tuners advice. He has been pretty much hell bent to put this large resivior in. He is confident it will work. It is not real complicated or expensive. I'll see what it does and hopefully it does the trick.
Thanks for all responses.
The only way the resi doesn't help that much it when you get stuck in stagging for an hour. You just need the support vehicle to have a cooler with you in stagging. Just drain the water before getting in the lanes bc you can't really drain the warm water out there. And give yourself about 5 minutes for the ice water to circulate. If you dump the ice in the run immediately it will not work as well. Two wks ago my starting iats after the burnout were 10 degrees below ambient. No staging wait though.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:54 PM   #39
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Makes sense. I've seen guys do that before. I'll remember the 5 min rule. I follow instructions well lol.
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:19 AM   #40
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First off,
The 3.8 front pulley and 1:1 rear should make 6ish. The OD on the rear should put it to 9.5ish.

Lately it seems like everyone is making more boost than in the past... it is odd. Anyway, do you have a dyno sheet? Just curious...

Brandon/Suxost or however it is spelled also is making higher than average boost but he is running HF cats.

i m around 10 psi with OD on the rear and 3.8 front.
i need to be 8 psi. what pulley size do i need?
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:00 PM   #41
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3.8 on the front is the biggest one they make, if I'm not mistaken. There may be a 4.0.
If not, you will need to get rid of the OD pulley on the rear and put a 3.6 on the front for around 8lbs boost.
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:47 PM   #42
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i m around 10 psi with OD on the rear and 3.8 front.
i need to be 8 psi. what pulley size do i need?
Why do you need to be at 8?
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:43 PM   #43
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3.8 on the front is the biggest one they make, if I'm not mistaken. There may be a 4.0.
If not, you will need to get rid of the OD pulley on the rear and put a 3.6 on the front for around 8lbs boost.
i like the wine of cog drive. i hope 4.will works?
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:54 PM   #44
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Why do you need to be at 8?

i was 6 psi with no issue. now i'm facing problems when upgrade it to 10 -11 so i decided to be around 8 psi. for safe side
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:02 PM   #45
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i like the wine of cog drive. i hope 4.will works?
You can get a 1:1 rear cog drive. Get that and you can keep the whine and get the proper boost you're looking for.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:25 PM   #46
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Forced induction

My 1979 Z-28 RS Camaro with an 364 cubic inch small block engine that been built from the bottom up to be supercharged . (Bowtie block forged stroker crank shaft, Milodon Road Race oil pan,MorosoWindage tray ,For. with a hydralic cam and Dart II iron heads( 2:02/1:60 valves.etc) and a Weiand 142 Mini-blower made 12 lbs of boost on pump gas. But now I have updated it with a set ported and polished Eldelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum with Manley 2:05 Intake/1:60 Stainless valves. Weiand 144 cubic inch mini-blower..040 Speed Pro Turbo /Blower pistons. Crane Hi-6 TR ignition box. I`m starting off firing on race gas then eventually see how low I can run a Race/super mixture. And put it on a chassis dyno.It should interesting.
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:19 AM   #47
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You can get a 1:1 rear cog drive. Get that and you can keep the whine and get the proper boost you're looking for.
i found it on ebay ..he will make it for me 3.7 or 3.9 or 4.0
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:10 AM   #48
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Jason, I know someone who's looking for a OD cog and has a 1:1. he's on the grrrr8 forum. Would you want to swap? I'll direct Daniel here if you do.

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Old 07-08-2013, 10:42 AM   #49
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That would be me if your interested in that. Thanks jessika
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:07 AM   #50
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You're welcome!

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