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Cosmetic Maintenance: Washing, Waxing, Detailing, Bodywork, Protection Anything related to keeping your Camaro clean and in good cosmetic condition.

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Old 06-14-2013, 02:16 AM   #1
chicagobulls
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I would like to share a tip.

Just learned that instead of using precious detail spray or waterless wash you can use soap and water as lubricant for your clay. ...........

Why has no one told me this?
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:35 AM   #2
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Yea lol you can
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:41 AM   #3
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When I want to strip everything, I dawn wash the car. With suds on the car is when I clay too. Anything that makes the clay glide works. Rinse, and go right to polishing with the car wet too.....
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:06 AM   #4
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When I want to strip everything, I dawn wash the car. With suds on the car is when I clay too. Anything that makes the clay glide works. Rinse, and go right to polishing with the car wet too.....
Agreed. I do the same thing, but will wash one more time then dry before polishing.
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:34 AM   #5
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You must've had very little claying left to do, because soap/water will break down the clay after a little while.
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:37 AM   #6
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You must've had very little claying left to do, because soap/water will break down the clay after a little while.
+1. Soap and water can work in a pinch but shouldn't be your first choice IMO

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Old 06-14-2013, 07:44 AM   #7
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You must've had very little claying left to do, because soap/water will break down the clay after a little while.
I use a nanosponge or prep towel - another reason to move to that...

but for years I used griots clay, (properly rinsed afterwards), with Dawn and never saw any breakdown....
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:54 AM   #8
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So I read before that soap water was not good for claying, now it is? Confuse here???
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:19 AM   #9
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So I read before that soap water was not good for claying, now it is? Confuse here???
Its still not. It WILL work, but its not the best idea IMO

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Old 06-14-2013, 08:33 AM   #10
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Interesting discussion:

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/...clay-lube.html
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:33 AM   #11
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"Precious" detail spray?
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen e View Post
I use a nanosponge or prep towel - another reason to move to that...

but for years I used griots clay, (properly rinsed afterwards), with Dawn and never saw any breakdown....
I tried those rubbery surfaced clay alternatives (the towel, the sponge, the autoscrub) and TBH, I dunno if I was doing something wrong, but they all left marring on any creases in the body work for me. Not on flat surfaces - just on creases. And when I mean marring, I don't mean scratches or swirls, I mean it began to fade the paint in those areas a bit as though I was rubbing an extremely fine sandpaper on them. You could see the pits of the orange peel. I had to follow them up w/ a polish.

The only thing I've noticed that really gives my paint the advertised "glass" feel with little to no scratches is a traditional blue claybar. Sure, it takes forever but it's just what I like to do. *Shrug.* You can get a better feel of the contamination with a traditional claybar too.

Odds are, you're going to mar your paint or scratch somewhere when using any mechanical decon method whether it's the sponge/towel or a claybar, because sometimes you really do gotta bear down hard with whatever you're using to get stubbon contamination out, which substantially raises your risk of scratching. But to think that with the sponge and towel; that the grit pretty much has nowhere to go but stay directly under the rubbery surface, is downright nauseating. At least with clay, there's a chance the grit will eventually sink into the clay where it can't scratch the paint.
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:55 AM   #13
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I tried those rubbery surfaced clay alternatives (the towel, the sponge, the autoscrub) and TBH, I dunno if I was doing something wrong, but they all left marring on any creases in the body work for me. Not on flat surfaces - just on creases. And when I mean marring, I don't mean scratches or swirls, I mean it began to fade the paint in those areas a bit as though I was rubbing an extremely fine sandpaper on them. You could see the pits of the orange peel. I had to follow them up w/ a polish.

The only thing I've noticed that really gives my paint the advertised "glass" feel with little to no scratches is a traditional blue claybar. Sure, it takes forever but it's just what I like to do. *Shrug.* You can get a better feel of the contamination with a traditional claybar too.

Odds are, you're going to mar your paint or scratch somewhere when using any mechanical decon method whether it's the sponge/towel or a claybar, because sometimes you really do gotta bear down hard with whatever you're using to get stubbon contamination out, which substantially raises your risk of scratching. But to think that with the sponge and towel; that the grit pretty much has nowhere to go but stay directly under the rubbery surface, is downright nauseating. At least with clay, there's a chance the grit will eventually sink into the clay where it can't scratch the paint.
I always seem to be in the minority here...LOL - Oh well, my lot in life.

We certainly have two diff levels here: hobbyists and prof detailers. As a prof detailer many times I would make a decision that is not the same as a DD hobbyist.

Now as a hobbyist, I have never seen any of the above creasing or marring with either the sponge or the speedy prep towl. Just a good clean base from which to start detailing. I don't use soap as I have plenty of waterless, but for someone that is cleaning/detailing his DD and claying like twice a year, I'm sure the saop is fine. I'll never use clay again after discovering the elastomeric products, particularly the speedy towel...
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
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I always seem to be in the minority here...LOL - Oh well, my lot in life.

We certainly have two diff levels here: hobbyists and prof detailers. As a prof detailer many times I would make a decision that is not the same as a DD hobbyist.

Now as a hobbyist, I have never seen any of the above creasing or marring with either the sponge or the speedy prep towl. Just a good clean base from which to start detailing. I don't use soap as I have plenty of waterless, but for someone that is cleaning/detailing his DD and claying like twice a year, I'm sure the saop is fine. I'll never use clay again after discovering the elastomeric products, particularly the speedy towel...
To each his own. I'm glad those products work for you! But for me, they mar creases in my paint, and I've used multiple types to confirm that result, and for me, soap/water started to break my clay apart around an hour after continuous use. It could be my technique... and who knows, could be my paint. We dabble in a hobby where variation and inconsistency is the nature of the game.

I've always said I'm old-fashioned for my age, even when it comes to detailing products, it seems.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:27 AM   #15
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Nice good to know it is not the best, but will work well with the nano scrub da attachment I have.

And yes detail spray is precious to me..... I like having lots of it.

Will be using soapy water from now on, could honestly care less about the clay bar breaking down as I usually throw mine away after one use. Also I have been using my DA nano scrub recently so I dont think this would be affected by the soap.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:32 AM   #16
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I'm curious - are there no laws in the US prohibiting you from using detergent on the street, driveways etc? Its a bylaw here that you can not let detergent escape into the sewer systems, so I have to go to a car wash and clean there, then bring home. Referring to using Dawn to remove any wax. I've talked to one of the owners of the car wash and I can bring detergent and a bucket, but it either has to be late at night when no one is around or first thing in the morning.

I plan on detailing mine for the first time next weekend and this has been bugging me...
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:36 AM   #17
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No laws that are enforced at least.

Look into some waterless wash smarbrit, you only need a couple of gallons of water and no detergent to wash your car, this will also not produce swirls.

Good luck
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:41 PM   #18
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No laws that are enforced at least.

Look into some waterless wash smarbrit, you only need a couple of gallons of water and no detergent to wash your car, this will also not produce swirls.

Good luck
I've got waterless wash and a full detailing kit I bought from Zaino's. My concern was moreso with the Dawn detergent and wax removal.

I've also got an A-Hole neighbour who would love to rat me out if I did wash my car in the driveway. The car wash is only a couple of blocks away, so not a big deal.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:13 PM   #19
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I should clarify, I usually clay after I've rinsed and leave the car wet, but use my (precious) detail spay as the lube for the clay. Once clay'd, I wash again to get rid any clay and DS residue, then dry. On subsequent clayings, it seems to go faster, but I haven't experienced a huge break down of clay either.

All that said, there are probably 100 different ways to do each part of our full detail technique. What you're comfortable with performing that produces your own level of satisfactory results is really all that matters hobbyist or full time detialer. The only difference is if you're a pro-jock your customers will let you know if it's satisfactory or not.
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:20 PM   #20
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I Learned that you can clay with soapy water a few people rejected the idea. Actually was shown this by the creator of the Ammo detailing product line.

A lot of people on here think they are the greatest detailers in the world lol its hard for everyone to share their oppinion when everyone has their own perfect way of detailing.
Can you show me where even one person rejected this idea? By saying that it wouldn't work or was wrong?
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:55 PM   #21
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Again, soap and water should be used only when you run out of QD or dedicated clay lube. Hell, don't take my word for it... go outside, clay your car using exclusively soap and water and if it doesn't start breaking up and cracking within an hour or so, then I guess you got different luck than I did.
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Old 06-15-2013, 02:00 PM   #22
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Again, soap and water should be used only when you run out of QD or dedicated clay lube. Hell, don't take my word for it... go outside, clay your car using exclusively soap and water and if it doesn't start breaking up and cracking within an hour or so, then I guess you got different luck than I did.
respectfully, it never happens when I have used dawn with Griots clay...never tried any others...
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Old 06-15-2013, 02:05 PM   #23
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respectfully, it never happens when I have used dawn with Griots clay...never tried any others...
Never used Griots clay, so maybe that's it.
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:39 PM   #24
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If he does this on the rarest of cars, I will take his word and do it on the camaro...
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:28 PM   #25
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Its still not. It WILL work, but its not the best idea IMO

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Right here....... its not the best idea


WHY?????????????????????


Pointles responses like "it is not the best idea"

A brilllo pad will work too, but its not the best idea.

See what I did here.
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