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Old 06-14-2013, 02:16 AM   #1
chicagobulls
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I would like to share a tip.

Just learned that instead of using precious detail spray or waterless wash you can use soap and water as lubricant for your clay. ...........

Why has no one told me this?
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:35 AM   #2
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Yea lol you can
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:41 AM   #3
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When I want to strip everything, I dawn wash the car. With suds on the car is when I clay too. Anything that makes the clay glide works. Rinse, and go right to polishing with the car wet too.....
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:06 AM   #4
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When I want to strip everything, I dawn wash the car. With suds on the car is when I clay too. Anything that makes the clay glide works. Rinse, and go right to polishing with the car wet too.....
Agreed. I do the same thing, but will wash one more time then dry before polishing.
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:34 AM   #5
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You must've had very little claying left to do, because soap/water will break down the clay after a little while.
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:37 AM   #6
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You must've had very little claying left to do, because soap/water will break down the clay after a little while.
+1. Soap and water can work in a pinch but shouldn't be your first choice IMO

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Old 06-14-2013, 07:44 AM   #7
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You must've had very little claying left to do, because soap/water will break down the clay after a little while.
I use a nanosponge or prep towel - another reason to move to that...

but for years I used griots clay, (properly rinsed afterwards), with Dawn and never saw any breakdown....
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:54 AM   #8
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So I read before that soap water was not good for claying, now it is? Confuse here???
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:19 AM   #9
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So I read before that soap water was not good for claying, now it is? Confuse here???
Its still not. It WILL work, but its not the best idea IMO

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Old 06-14-2013, 08:33 AM   #10
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Interesting discussion:

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/...clay-lube.html
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:33 AM   #11
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"Precious" detail spray?
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
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I use a nanosponge or prep towel - another reason to move to that...

but for years I used griots clay, (properly rinsed afterwards), with Dawn and never saw any breakdown....
I tried those rubbery surfaced clay alternatives (the towel, the sponge, the autoscrub) and TBH, I dunno if I was doing something wrong, but they all left marring on any creases in the body work for me. Not on flat surfaces - just on creases. And when I mean marring, I don't mean scratches or swirls, I mean it began to fade the paint in those areas a bit as though I was rubbing an extremely fine sandpaper on them. You could see the pits of the orange peel. I had to follow them up w/ a polish.

The only thing I've noticed that really gives my paint the advertised "glass" feel with little to no scratches is a traditional blue claybar. Sure, it takes forever but it's just what I like to do. *Shrug.* You can get a better feel of the contamination with a traditional claybar too.

Odds are, you're going to mar your paint or scratch somewhere when using any mechanical decon method whether it's the sponge/towel or a claybar, because sometimes you really do gotta bear down hard with whatever you're using to get stubbon contamination out, which substantially raises your risk of scratching. But to think that with the sponge and towel; that the grit pretty much has nowhere to go but stay directly under the rubbery surface, is downright nauseating. At least with clay, there's a chance the grit will eventually sink into the clay where it can't scratch the paint.
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:55 AM   #13
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I tried those rubbery surfaced clay alternatives (the towel, the sponge, the autoscrub) and TBH, I dunno if I was doing something wrong, but they all left marring on any creases in the body work for me. Not on flat surfaces - just on creases. And when I mean marring, I don't mean scratches or swirls, I mean it began to fade the paint in those areas a bit as though I was rubbing an extremely fine sandpaper on them. You could see the pits of the orange peel. I had to follow them up w/ a polish.

The only thing I've noticed that really gives my paint the advertised "glass" feel with little to no scratches is a traditional blue claybar. Sure, it takes forever but it's just what I like to do. *Shrug.* You can get a better feel of the contamination with a traditional claybar too.

Odds are, you're going to mar your paint or scratch somewhere when using any mechanical decon method whether it's the sponge/towel or a claybar, because sometimes you really do gotta bear down hard with whatever you're using to get stubbon contamination out, which substantially raises your risk of scratching. But to think that with the sponge and towel; that the grit pretty much has nowhere to go but stay directly under the rubbery surface, is downright nauseating. At least with clay, there's a chance the grit will eventually sink into the clay where it can't scratch the paint.
I always seem to be in the minority here...LOL - Oh well, my lot in life.

We certainly have two diff levels here: hobbyists and prof detailers. As a prof detailer many times I would make a decision that is not the same as a DD hobbyist.

Now as a hobbyist, I have never seen any of the above creasing or marring with either the sponge or the speedy prep towl. Just a good clean base from which to start detailing. I don't use soap as I have plenty of waterless, but for someone that is cleaning/detailing his DD and claying like twice a year, I'm sure the saop is fine. I'll never use clay again after discovering the elastomeric products, particularly the speedy towel...
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
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I always seem to be in the minority here...LOL - Oh well, my lot in life.

We certainly have two diff levels here: hobbyists and prof detailers. As a prof detailer many times I would make a decision that is not the same as a DD hobbyist.

Now as a hobbyist, I have never seen any of the above creasing or marring with either the sponge or the speedy prep towl. Just a good clean base from which to start detailing. I don't use soap as I have plenty of waterless, but for someone that is cleaning/detailing his DD and claying like twice a year, I'm sure the saop is fine. I'll never use clay again after discovering the elastomeric products, particularly the speedy towel...
To each his own. I'm glad those products work for you! But for me, they mar creases in my paint, and I've used multiple types to confirm that result, and for me, soap/water started to break my clay apart around an hour after continuous use. It could be my technique... and who knows, could be my paint. We dabble in a hobby where variation and inconsistency is the nature of the game.

I've always said I'm old-fashioned for my age, even when it comes to detailing products, it seems.
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