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Old 06-13-2013, 10:22 AM   #15
Supercharged SS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THR ZL1 #1 View Post
24' long 8.5' wide, 10,000 lb. Here are pics:












No doubt this is the best way to transport the car. Very,very nice and extremely well thought out.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:55 AM   #16
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Great info guys, Supercharged how wide is that trailer and what make is it. I was thinking of a 20' 8x5 with a V nose in the front. The v gives about 4' of extra trailer and I would go with the floor track. I like the rised floor to clear the wheel wells and to leave room to store ramps and stuff. I would also go with 5200 axles as I also feel 3500 pound is just to tight. This trailer would go on long trips from time to time.
Any other pictures from the others would be appriciated.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:26 AM   #17
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Awwww man, love that escape door!

I'm getting too old to be crawling out windows.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:41 AM   #18
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Awwww man, love that escape door!

I'm getting too old to be crawling out windows.
I have a 18x8.5' enclosed car hauler. with a beavertail rear(slanted) and a v nose. I had my 1992 Z in there at one point but never strapped it down, cant imagine getting under the ZL1 to strap it down

I like the escape door as well, but ive got a vert so I wouldn't need it lol. lucky me
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:52 AM   #19
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Definitely go with 5,200 lb axles . . . one thing to remember the "typical" curb weight of a 20' to 24' trailer is 3,500 lb add a ZL1 and you max out at 7,700 lbs . .

A V nose ~20' or a square 24' gives you plenty of room for misc storage. . . although I am not a big fan of having too much stuff in the trailer since it becomes a projectile in an "incident" . . .

The awning escape door is AWESOME . . . plus this old man can't fit through the window of a 5th gen . . LOL
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:59 AM   #20
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my 18x8.5' v nose, 5200 # axles is 3850 empty. I also have upgraded beams underneath as well. and my ZL1 is almost 4400 pounds. over 8000 is too much for my trailblazer SS to handle. I plan to use an open trailer for long distances as I get about 9.5-10 mpg pulling it on the highway
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:27 PM   #21
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I believe the strap over the wheels tied to the floor via the e track would make securing it a bit easier.
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:36 PM   #22
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I believe the strap over the wheels tied to the floor via the e track would make securing it a bit easier.
On my open trailers its very easy to tie the car down over the tires. PITA in an enclosed trailer.
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:31 AM   #23
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Always tie your car down to the frame. At least for race cars. You anchor the tires only and the entire suspension works they whole way, wears it out.
We use chain cinches to suck the car down onto blocks, does not move.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:06 AM   #24
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Here is a pic of the frame tie down locations I use.

The rear locations are easy to find, in front of the tires about in line with the jack pad notches on the side rails.

The front locations on a ZL1 take a bit of work. take out about 4 - 5 of the bolts on either side of the belly pan so that it is loose enough to pull down so that you can find the factory hole in the frame rail. Locate the hole on the belly pan, and use a Dremel with a roto cutting tool and route out the hole using the factory frame rail hole as your guide.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:16 AM   #25
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What brand trailer is that THR??
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:21 AM   #26
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What brand trailer is that THR??
Wells Cargo
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:24 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THR ZL1 #1 View Post
Here is a pic of the frame tie down locations I use.

The rear locations are easy to find, in front of the tires about in line with the jack pad notches on the side rails.

The front locations on a ZL1 take a bit of work. take out about 4 - 5 of the bolts on either side of the belly pan so that it is loose enough to pull down so that you can find the factory hole in the frame rail. Locate the hole on the belly pan, and use a Dremel with a roto cutting tool and route out the hole using the factory frame rail hole as your guide.
Call me special,, then are you just attached the HOOK END of the ratchet strap at those locations?
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:28 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THR ZL1 #1 View Post
Here is a pic of the frame tie down locations I use.

The rear locations are easy to find, in front of the tires about in line with the jack pad notches on the side rails.

The front locations on a ZL1 take a bit of work. take out about 4 - 5 of the bolts on either side of the belly pan so that it is loose enough to pull down so that you can find the factory hole in the frame rail. Locate the hole on the belly pan, and use a Dremel with a roto cutting tool and route out the hole using the factory frame rail hole as your guide.
Also how did you determine those locations to be the TIE DOWN locations.

My feedback from up the chain, states the prefer method of securing the ZL1 on the trailer(s) is strapping down over the tires using the track method?
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