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Old 04-23-2013, 03:48 PM   #26
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The only comparison that could be remotely considered a fair comparison would be back to back runs....same car, same driver, same strip, same fuel, etc. etc. Still not scientific but a good comparison.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:58 PM   #27
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The only comparison that could be remotely considered a fair comparison would be back to back runs....same car, same driver, same strip, same fuel, etc. etc. Still not scientific but a good comparison.
Dyno pulls usually show Ball Park of 30HP lost with Super Chiller off in 95deg FL.
Some one posted not long ago times on vs. off but I donít remember who it was, it may have been in one of my threads?
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:32 PM   #28
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I'm just curious what the difference in time slip data is when comparing two back to back runs with the only difference between the first run and second run being the first run made without the chiller and the second run with the chiller on.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:55 PM   #29
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I recognize the user names above, thanks for your support! It really makes a difference; I have been hammered with orders since March. Kits are going all over the world now, Iím finishing one up now for a Lumina SS (G8) going to South Africa.
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Old 04-24-2013, 12:23 PM   #30
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Not even one person has made back to back runs and has a pair of time slips to post up????
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:05 AM   #31
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Not even one person has made back to back runs and has a pair of time slips to post up????

Kind of strange. I don't care what my IAT's are on the street. I've been looking at this but would like to see some proof it works on the track. You would think the company making this would have done some track testing.
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:07 AM   #32
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Kind of strange. I don't care what my IAT's are on the street. I've been looking at this but would like to see some proof it works on the track. You would think the company making this would have done some track testing.
Turbo99 has some info at the track I believe.
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:43 AM   #33
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Sorry I don't have any data with back to back runs. Mainly because I have no reason to run without it now. Last time out temp was mid 70's and I made 3 passes. Highest IAT I saw @ the end of the 1/4 mile was 89 with Chiller. It works and I don't have areason to run without it because I know my IAT's will be higher. They were @ 114 when I started my car and before I moved to the staging lanes thay dropped to 39 due to the chiller being on. Thats proof to me. Running 12psi boost.
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:55 PM   #34
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I don't think anyone is questioning or doubting the IAT's are lower with the chiller unit. The question is what does it do for your time slips? Is your ET lower and by how much, is your top speed higher and by how much? How much quicker are your times on back to back runs using the chiller on the second pass?
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:16 PM   #35
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I don't think anyone is questioning or doubting the IAT's are lower with the chiller unit. The question is what does it do for your time slips? Is your ET lower and by how much, is your top speed higher and by how much? How much quicker are your times on back to back runs using the chiller on the second pass?

What he said. Why would I want lower IAT's if I don't pick up on my et? For 1000.00 I want to know I will run faster in the heat. Instead of just having a log that show they are cooler. What has me questioning it is that 2 company's make it but none have tested it on the track. That makes me think it does nothing with the Et.


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Old 06-17-2013, 02:23 PM   #36
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^^what he said
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:15 PM   #37
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^^^^ What they Said^^^^^
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:55 PM   #38
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Must be working, had my best time ever.
It shot down the track.
7.21 (1/8th) 1.59 60 Ft 94 MPH

Most say they run personal best with AI Super Chiller.
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:07 PM   #39
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Not on the same day but I have made several passes before chiller install and my IAT's start around 80f and finish around 120f and I run meth too with 12 psi boost. My tuner told me my tune was set to pull timing @ 100f IAT so I am loosing something on the top end without Dave's Chiller.. This Chiller is GREAT and Dave's support was also great..
Please disregard doing back to back runs with the above referenced tune installed in the car. Most tuners write tunes to start pulling timing at an IAT of about 140 degrees F. 100 degrees F is only a couple of degrees warmer than your normal body temp. We get nearly 100 degree ambient temps from Florida to Texas a lot of days in the summer. With your tune, which is not the norm, there should be a huge difference in performance between "chiller off'" and "chiller on" runs because of the way the tune was written. It would not be a useful comparison for most other racers that have tunes that do not start to pull timing until 140* IAT.
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:17 PM   #40
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I agree the Chiller is not for everyone and I really can't say how much it is helping me in the 1/4 mile. What I can say is that I would do it all over again after what I see it do ing on my car. When the heat soak brings the IATs up around 120-150 and I can crank it let it run 2-3 minutes on a 75f day and iats are sitting around 34-39f ready to start my 1/4 mile pass. I am sold but you don't have to be. When I am running a 3.4 pulley and OD cog with 11.5 psi boost and maintain 10-20 below ambient IAT's instead of 30-40 IAT's over ambient street driving this can only be good for my maggie?? It is a lot of money, it is personal choice, there may not be a lot of data but seems like the people that have them like them.. Those that don't find it hard to justify.. Thats what make it interesting...Differing opinions Its all good... And typically my IAT's are around 85-90f @ the end of the 1/4.
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:26 PM   #41
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I would really like for this to work at the track like I hope it would. The data looks good, the video looks good and the concept seems sound, but I have no overwhelming evidence this can create a "winter like" drag racing experience in the dead of summer. I really don't race for half the year due to the heat. If I believed wholeheartedly that this was the answer, I would RUN to get this installed. I hope something eventually changes my mind.
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:36 PM   #42
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I agree the Chiller is not for everyone and I really can't say how much it is helping me in the 1/4 mile. What I can say is that I would do it all over again after what I see it do ing on my car. When the heat soak brings the IATs up around 120-150 and I can crank it let it run 2-3 minutes on a 75f day and iats are sitting around 34-39f ready to start my 1/4 mile pass. I am sold but you don't have to be. When I am running a 3.4 pulley and OD cog with 11.5 psi boost and maintain 10-20 below ambient IAT's instead of 30-40 IAT's over ambient street driving this can only be good for my maggie?? It is a lot of money, it is personal choice, there may not be a lot of data but seems like the people that have them like them.. Those that don't find it hard to justify.. Thats what make it interesting...Differing opinions Its all good... And typically my IAT's are around 85-90f @ the end of the 1/4.

This is the first time I've seen someone post this. I have a similar set up as far as pullies and cog drive go. I see the same 50 degrees over ambient. So this chiller can maintain below ambient IAT even after a run ? Very interesting. Thank you.
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:51 PM   #43
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I have done some back to run on and off, same car same track same day. Ran about 2-3 tenths faster with the chiller. It is ALL going to depend on when your tune pulls timing. You do not gain power with cooler water with the chiller you do however keep you IATs low enough to not pull timing, cooling hot outside air does not put more oxygen in the air but it does help from detonating and keeps IAT cooler. Here was some old data I did when I first put it on and I recheck data everytime I do a new mod and the data holds true to this day. I am now at 10.5 psi and 680hp.

Here is a copy of a post I made 2 years when I first put the chiller on and I did days of testing on the road and this is the info from that dyno testing which matched all of the road testing I did. I didn't post any graphs as I was having issues with my SCT losing connections so I never turned the logger off so it was about 30 min long.

I ok well I got the data off we needed, I tried to do a graph and all that but I am tired and not gonna do it now. So the dyno sheets I emailed to myself from the shop didn't work so I will go off of memory for the numbers there.

First off the A/C does kick off at WOT but comes back on around 4500RPM(we could see a dip in the dyno sheet. So for ALL the Chiller on tests we let it chill for 5 minutes between runs and just before we went WOT we turned off the A/C. Same 5 minutes were given for cool down for Chiller OFF.

Chiller OFF Data

101* AMBIENT
1st pull IAT start at 104*F end at 122*F car made 568

2nd pull IAT starts at 114*F end at 140*F car made 55? had a small amout of KR (.3)

3rd pull IAT starts at 125*F end at 145*F car made 54? had alittle more KR (.9)


Chiller ON

107* AMBIENT
1st pull IAT starts at 64*F ends at 113*F car made 56?

2nd Pull IAT starts at 66*F ends at 116*F car made 56?

3rd pull IAT starts at 66*F ends at 116*F car made 56?

Did a pulley change 3.6 to a 3.4 and went from 6psi to 7 psi and made 596 and the torque can't remember but it went up almost 50ftlbs. IAT were the same as the other runs with the chiller on.

I didn't tune for the chiller, we were pressed for time as they had 2 other cars that needed tuning and I was on the dyno most of the day doing 8-10 pulls. The tuner though we could get another 1-2 degrees of timing with IAT where they were with the chiller on but since we didn't have time to test I choose to stay where I was and be safer at the same power level. I think if your IATs are higher than 140*F you may get some HP out of this deal and be alot safer, but my car at 6-7PSI doesn't produce alot of heat.

I hope everyone is ok with the test as you can't please everyone but I did my best to keep a even playing field but temps came up as the day went on and engine coolant temps are what they are when we hit the go pedal. I will try to get some logs for the 1/4 mile but it isn't going to change any from what I have already done around here on the road and the dyno actually proved to heat up the car more than a 0-120mph run.
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:08 PM   #44
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^^^^^ thank you. It's nice to see some hard numbers. Shouldn't have to tune for this thing, it purpose is to not give back timing that is already advanced. Thanks again
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:12 PM   #45
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^^^ Thanks Jeremy ^^^

Quote:
Originally Posted by blufin View Post
I would really like for this to work at the track like I hope it would. The data looks good, the video looks good and the concept seems sound, but I have no overwhelming evidence this can create a "winter like" drag racing experience in the dead of summer. I really don't race for half the year due to the heat. If I believed wholeheartedly that this was the answer, I would RUN to get this installed. I hope something eventually changes my mind.
Where are you located in FL? We have an installation special that cant be beat. I'm excited we have our first ZL1 coming in Friday!

Just figured it out West Palm Beach DOH
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:37 PM   #46
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This is my take on the chiller

Depends on the tune.
A stock Camaro tunes starts to pull timing at 86F.
But when the IAT are 59F and cooler,it add's timing.
So depends on how the tune is set.

I kinda like the idea of the chiller because it would make the car more consistent.Once the supercharger gets heat soak,or your stuck at the staging lane for a long period of time. If you stage at 86F on the previous run,and the next round you end up at 120F at the starting line.
Sorry!!! you just lost the race,because it will start pulling timing as soon you hit the throttle = loose power.
Once I decide which way I go with a F/I. So far leaning toward the Whipple,it will have a chiller.
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:57 PM   #47
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The only issue I have issue keeping the refrigerant level correct. Mines works great and then it works ok. I have bought some A/C gauges and see the high side go up pretty high when in comp mode. Still trying to get it dialed in correctly again. It still cools good but not as cold as I have had it before.
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:47 PM   #48
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Quote:
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This is my take on the chiller

Depends on the tune.
A stock Camaro tunes starts to pull timing at 86F.
But when the IAT are 59F and cooler,it add's timing.
So depends on how the tune is set.

I kinda like the idea of the chiller because it would make the car more consistent.Once the supercharger gets heat soak,or your stuck at the staging lane for a long period of time. If you stage at 86F on the previous run,and the next round you end up at 120F at the starting line.
Sorry!!! you just lost the race,because it will start pulling timing as soon you hit the throttle = loose power.
Once I decide which way I go with a F/I. So far leaning toward the Whipple,it will have a chiller.
This is dead on!!! I have the chiller and have run about 40 passes with it. I can't "prove" it helps my ET. What I can prove is the consistency. I won the 2012 Atlanta LSX Challenge 12 second true street in the upper 90's ambient and won the 2012 Bristol Super Chevy 12 second true street in the upper 90's ambient. Each race was a 30 mile cruise and 3 back to back hot passes. The chiller gives me great consistency. Both tracks, all 6 passes, my ET never varied more than .05 seconds. My opinion, if you want a faster car, build it. If you want consistency, and help protect your build, chill it!
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:04 PM   #49
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The only issue I have issue keeping the refrigerant level correct. Mines works great and then it works ok. I have bought some A/C gauges and see the high side go up pretty high when in comp mode. Still trying to get it dialed in correctly again. It still cools good but not as cold as I have had it before.
You should bring your car in for a Free update, you were the prototype Camaro and you know the problems I had with my welder in 2011. You already had one weld fail completely and if you have to add Freon Iím sure you have a very small leak. There is no good reason for you to be adding Freon.

Jerry does all my welding now and he is 100% on the type welding needed to make all the custom fittings we use now. Also the Super Chiller is 100% O Ring connections now no pipe fittings on Freon side. You also need the updated wiring to get 100% out of Competition Mode.
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:12 PM   #50
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I might have to Dave I have struggled with it the last few weeks trying to get it right. It worked great before and your right about having the first set-up. You have offered enough I think I may have to set up a time to get down there and do some updates, I have seen some pics of your new stuff and it has come a long way and looks great.
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