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Old 03-04-2013, 07:29 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dekan513 View Post
what kinda alignment do i need to drag racing, i dont drive hard in curves at all normal driving . looking for a good drag racing aligment . normal ride height and 1" lower . as my dads camaro is lowered.
Here are the Drag Specs.

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Old 03-15-2013, 10:29 PM   #152
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I've sifted thru this thread and want to make sure I'm on the right track with things.

I'll have a 13' 1LE with BMR 1" lowering springs and most likely won't see much if any track time because of where I live. I want to be sure when things are done and the car gets aligned the tech is working with the correct specs. Should I be looking for a bit different spec than factory or what?
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:31 PM   #153
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JusticePete,

I will be installing a set of BMR Split Lowering Springs (1.4" Front and 1" Rear). I intend to install them myself but, I am concerned about clocking the bushings. I understand the concept and procedure. I am just trying to figure out how to re-torque the bolts with the car's weight on the wheels and no drive on lift. I mean, it's tough to get to anything under the car at stock height and once its lowered, even worse.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I have the following instructions that you posted earlier in this thread.

Bush Timing

Step 1. Lift the car on a two post lift and raise it.

Step 2. Loosen the following bolts/nuts:
Front:
---Inner Control Arm Bushing
---Inner Radius Rod
Rear:
---Trailing Arm Bushings (both ends)
---Toe Rod Bushings (both ends)
---Lower Control Arm Bushings (Inner)
---Upper Control Arm Bushings (Rearward)
---Lower Strut Bushings

-- Drive it around the parking lot slowly and onto the alignment rack.
-- Re-torgue bolts.

Alignment (Street use only)

Front
Caster: No Factory Adjustment
Camber: -.75
Toe: ZERO

Rear
Camber: ZERO or as close to ZERO as possible
Toe: IN .10

Improved rear tire wear, better on center steering feel all round better driving feel.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:03 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptor3141 View Post
JusticePete,

I will be installing a set of BMR Split Lowering Springs (1.4" Front and 1" Rear). I intend to install them myself but, I am concerned about clocking the bushings. I understand the concept and procedure. I am just trying to figure out how to re-torque the bolts with the car's weight on the wheels and no drive on lift. I mean, it's tough to get to anything under the car at stock height and once its lowered, even worse.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I have the following instructions that you posted earlier in this thread.

Bush Timing

Step 1. Lift the car on a two post lift and raise it.

Step 2. Loosen the following bolts/nuts:
Front:
---Inner Control Arm Bushing
---Inner Radius Rod
Rear:
---Trailing Arm Bushings (both ends)
---Toe Rod Bushings (both ends)
---Lower Control Arm Bushings (Inner)
---Upper Control Arm Bushings (Rearward)
---Lower Strut Bushings

-- Drive it around the parking lot slowly and onto the alignment rack.
-- Re-torgue bolts.

Alignment (Street use only)

Front
Caster: No Factory Adjustment
Camber: -.75
Toe: ZERO

Rear
Camber: ZERO or as close to ZERO as possible
Toe: IN .10

Improved rear tire wear, better on center steering feel all round better driving feel.
Do you have access to a lift?
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:51 PM   #155
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Only a two post which means the wheels would hang and not be supporting the car.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:52 PM   #156
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No worries. Do it at the alignment shop.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:53 PM   #157
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Thanks for the info and for assisting all of us. Great job!
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:26 PM   #158
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All I have is bmr toe bars and trailing arms...and bushing kit. Other wise stock shocks and suspension.

what would be the ideal drag race 4 wheel alignment? I am running drag radials on a 20.

I am looking to run 10.00 on a 20 btw

thanks for your help.
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:02 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acowherd View Post
All I have is bmr toe bars and trailing arms...and bushing kit. Other wise stock shocks and suspension.

what would be the ideal drag race 4 wheel alignment? I am running drag radials on a 20.

I am looking to run 10.00 on a 20 btw

thanks for your help.
Do you run skinnies?
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:02 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Do you run skinnies?
Stock.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:34 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acowherd View Post
Stock.
The REAR is easy.

Toe IN 0.10
Camber 0.00

The front is more interesting. With a full size street tire we want to air it up to max inflation and max camber it in to run on the inside shoulder making it a third cousin to a skinny. With a skinny 0.00 camber is where we want to be. Running camber on a skinny increase the tire contact patch.

The camber screw in the knuckle is 10mm 1.5 pitch. Get the alignment set to these specs.

Front
Camber -1.00
Toe IN 0.15
Total Toe IN 0.30

With the alignment set and the camber screw seated grind a mark even with the flat of the knuckle. This is your DD camber setting. At the track, jack the car up. Loosen the clevis bolts and tighten the camber screw. This is add 1 degree of negative camber for the drag strip. For your drive home reset the camber by screwing out the camber screws until the grind mark is flush to the flat of the knuckle.
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:16 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
The REAR is easy.

Toe IN 0.10
Camber 0.00

The front is more interesting. With a full size street tire we want to air it up to max inflation and max camber it in to run on the inside shoulder making it a third cousin to a skinny. With a skinny 0.00 camber is where we want to be. Running camber on a skinny increase the tire contact patch.

The camber screw in the knuckle is 10mm 1.5 pitch. Get the alignment set to these specs.

Front
Camber -1.00
Toe IN 0.15
Total Toe IN 0.30

With the alignment set and the camber screw seated grind a mark even with the flat of the knuckle. This is your DD camber setting. At the track, jack the car up. Loosen the clevis bolts and tighten the camber screw. This is add 1 degree of negative camber for the drag strip. For your drive home reset the camber by screwing out the camber screws until the grind mark is flush to the flat of the knuckle.
Thank you sir! I'll give those specs a try.
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:44 PM   #163
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So I have a 2011 2ss. I use my camaro as a daily driver but autocross quite a bit, 10-12 events a year. Just now doing some mods. I bought a used zl1 rear bar, and ordered new zl1 end links and control arms. When I swap the zl1 parts, what alignment specs do I use?
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:17 PM   #164
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Originally Posted by Rad_dsm View Post
So I have a 2011 2ss. I use my camaro as a daily driver but autocross quite a bit, 10-12 events a year. Just now doing some mods. I bought a used zl1 rear bar, and ordered new zl1 end links and control arms. When I swap the zl1 parts, what alignment specs do I use?
Aggressive Street sir.

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Old 06-18-2013, 04:49 PM   #165
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Hey JusticePete I sent you a PM.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:58 PM   #166
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FE3 Aggressive Street, the less negative rear camber the better.
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:12 PM   #167
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Quote:
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FE3 Aggressive Street, the less negative rear camber the better.
Thank you sir! That's what I'll use!
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:20 PM   #168
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You're welcome. Let us know hot it drives after the alignment.
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:04 PM   #169
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Ok...I need a some suggestion on an alignment specs.

Here are most of my suspension mods:
BC Coilovers (lowered ~1.4")
Pedders subframe inserts
Pedders ZL1 swaybars and FE4 rear conversion (OEM drop links)
Aftermarket Toe Rods & Tie Rods
Rear End bushings
Radius Rod bushings

Here recently I just started nocticing that my car drives straight but the wheel is slightly tilted to the right. I guess it's more than slightly because you can definitely see it. No major damage to the car or curb surfing or anything. Actually the only thing I can think of that happened is my right rear drop link bolt came off and that ended up causing the drop link to jam into the LCA pretty good. It was jammed pretty tight in the LCA. Seems like this issue has come up after that happened. Although I'll say that I can't figure out how or why that would cause my steering to get knocked out.

I replaced the OEM drop link, re-timed my bushings just in case, and then had it re-aligned and asked him to get as close to the Pedders Aggressive Street specs as he could. I've attached the alignment sheet from that one which was done less than a month ago.

Well, that alignment didn't fix the steering wheel. I had to go out of town for a couple weeks and I'm just not getting back to the issue. Since I assumed the alignment was done correctly I was wondering if there is a something else going on.

I decided to take my car over to LG Motorsports since I know they road race Camaros. I figured they would at least have an idea. I had one of the guys drive the car around and he said he felt that mechanically I should be okay but the steering wheel is off. He thought that I would need to take it back to the alignment shop and have them make some adjustments to the front tie rods (shortening one side) to try to bring the wheels back to straight and then re-align. He also thought my rear toe was pretty aggressive for mostly street use and would probably eat some tire but would perform good under braking on the track. Props to LG for giving me feedback.

I've made an appointment to go back to the alignment shop on Monday. This time I want to take the alignment guy for a ride and show him what's up. I'm assuming he will understand what to do with the front tie rods to get my steering wheel back straight.

My question is, what should I try to get my rear Toe set to in order to not eat tires. I mostly daily drive the car with only one or two trips to a track or Auto-X a year as well as about 3 - 4 trips to the drag strip a year.

I've looked through this thread again and I see where it's been recommend to go with -5 degrees rear toe. Is that .5 or .05? Some even have their recommendations set to inches. I'm starting to read so much and there is so many different recommendations that I'm starting to get lost again.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:01 PM   #170
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The higher values on the passenger side may cause a slight slight tug go the right. Minimal. My best guess is the steering wheel wasn't quite straight at the time of alignment.

Your rear toe should be set IN 0.10 per side total toe IN 0.20.

Rear camber, not toe will wear the inside shoulders of the tires. -0.50 is easy on the tires and also will reduce under steer. With your ride height you will need our camber eccentrics. Lacking those, have the tech set the toe and camber eccentrics to a neutral position. Then set the camber to the lowest available value. Then set the toe. Repeat until the best result is achieved.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:13 PM   #171
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Do the rear camber eccentrics need to have wholes drilled? If I remember correctly the fronts did. I probably can't get the camber eccentrics before Monday. I'll print out your instructions to take with me to get the tech to do what he can. Then I'll look at adding the camber eccentrics bolt and re-align down the road.

Can you PM me the price of the camber eccentrics shipped to 76226.

BTW: the guys at LG might have said my camber was the one that was aggressive. There was a lot of talk and I was trying to soak in all in an not be so confused.

Thanks....
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:17 PM   #172
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Oh, one other thing. I changed out my steering rack bushing over to the Pedders bushing. You don't think there might have been an issue like the fact that I might not have gotten the rack back perfectly center or something like that? I was wondering if maybe it didn't bet back exactly where it was OEM that maybe that would throw the steering out just a little?
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:30 PM   #173
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Caster bolts require grinding slots. Camber bolts are a direct OEM replacement. Put them in and gain a full degree of adjustment.
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:21 PM   #174
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Justice, any tips for rear control arm install?
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:48 PM   #175
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I posted in a different thread before I found this one, but I hope no one minds if I ask again.

I put on the Eibach pro-kit and took it to the dealer for alignment and bushing timing. They've treated me pretty well in the past but they're wary of "special cases". I talked to them about the bushing timing but they want 3 hours and a lot more money to do it. It seems simple to me, I replaced the springs and sways in an afternoon with no lift and no air tools, but its very complex for the alignment tech? I'm on a deadline for the car to be drivable long distance, so I just had them go ahead with the alignment, using the pfadt spec sheet. ( I don't want anything too aggressive, good tire wear being key. )

I know some of the bushings will get loosened during the alignment, but could I do the rest of them at home on ramps? I figure a couple large wrenches/sockets is much cheaper than the labor that the dealer wants. If it is possible, can someone point out which ones I should leave alone and which ones I should time?

EDIT: So I wasted 3 hours at the dealership and evidently bushing timing is too much work for the tech to do while its on the lift, and the alignment can't even be done with just springs and sways. They aren't even sure it can be set to OEM specs and the service manager just wants to "wash his hands of it". So much for the 2 vehicles I purchased from them!

I'm sitting at firestone now, the guy was like "sure, no problem." His only concern was if the car had been lowered too much or springs cut... (Yeah, I guess they see that a lot). Well, here's to hoping they do the job right...
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