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Camaro V6 LFX Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons For all LFX related parts

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Old 06-23-2013, 01:28 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by intensifi View Post
Great write up! Thanks for all the effort!

The difference between yours with 28K (Before Catch Can) miles and mine with 14K (BCC) miles, really shows the need for getting the catch can on early.

The next time I have my manifold off, I'm going to try throttle body cleaner on the closed valves.

I'll also check with the master tech at Boardwalk Chevrolet on the difference between Seafoam and BG 44K. As I recall he felt BG 44K cleaned better.
Yeah, I'm sure there are more potent/effective dissolvers of the carbon deposits than Seafoam. I bet BG 44K is one of them. But I'd probably buy some fogging oil to use in the cylinders before startup after using them.

I was close to using the intake/carb cleaner that I bought. It says right on the can that it quickly dissolves carbon deposits. I chickened out for fear of cylinder wash, even though we only used higher quantities of cleaner in those cylinders we confirmed were closed. But we had to spray some in to check, and one of them looked closed but did not hold fluid until we turned the crank a bit. Which of course means the cleaner went right into the cylinder.
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Old 07-03-2013, 04:58 PM   #77
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Yeah, I'm sure there are more potent/effective dissolvers of the carbon deposits than Seafoam. I bet BG 44K is one of them. But I'd probably buy some fogging oil to use in the cylinders before startup after using them.

I was close to using the intake/carb cleaner that I bought. It says right on the can that it quickly dissolves carbon deposits. I chickened out for fear of cylinder wash, even though we only used higher quantities of cleaner in those cylinders we confirmed were closed. But we had to spray some in to check, and one of them looked closed but did not hold fluid until we turned the crank a bit. Which of course means the cleaner went right into the cylinder.
Maybe you can test open/closed with Seafoam and once you know it's closed use something more heavy duty? Thanks for posting in my other thread, this has been very informative!
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Old 07-03-2013, 05:05 PM   #78
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Nows when I'd like to SEE the GM customer Service guy! tell us how a catch can isn't a good idea as a Standard Part?????
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:03 PM   #79
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Nows when I'd like to SEE the GM customer Service guy! tell us how a catch can isn't a good idea as a Standard Part?????
I doubt he'll comment on it being a standard part, but he could certainly weigh in on fears that installing a catch can voiding any part of your warranty. A lot of us go the extra mile to try to do everything we can to prolong the life of our cars, and it's disappointing that many service departments threaten to void warranties for ridiculous reasons such as a catch can. I had a service department here in CA that won't be mentioned tell me that installing a Mobil 1 oil filter would void my powertrain warranty and that I should only use A/C Delco filters . . . . needless to say I found another service department.
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:57 PM   #80
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:22 PM   #81
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Nows when I'd like to SEE the GM customer Service guy! tell us how a catch can isn't a good idea as a Standard Part?????
Probably never see that.

Call me cynical, but NOT including a catch can makes some business sense:

1. Why include something that costs extra, might prolong the life of the car, and cause consumers to put off buying a new car?

2. Why include something that would reduce profit for your dealers (less IM cleanings, etc)?

3. The consumer is willing to accept business practices like these.


BTW - I have my 2nd RX catchcan on my 2nd Camaro, and I use hardly any oil at all. Maybe my dipstick is broken.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:48 PM   #82
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Probably never see that.

Call me cynical, but NOT including a catch can makes some business sense:

1. Why include something that costs extra, might prolong the life of the car, and cause consumers to put off buying a new car?

2. Why include something that would reduce profit for your dealers (less IM cleanings, etc)?

3. The consumer is willing to accept business practices like these.


BTW - I have my 2nd RX catchcan on my 2nd Camaro, and I use hardly any oil at all. Maybe my dipstick is broken.
I agree, but I'd like to hear someone from GM to comment on a catch can and warranty issues.
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Old 07-17-2013, 12:29 PM   #83
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Take a look at post #9:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=307431

This is a shot of LFX valves @ 1500 miles with no catch can. The build-up is starting, but not bad yet.
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Old 07-17-2013, 03:22 PM   #84
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I've been following that thread and saw that too. It's that "collar" of deposits on the valve stem. That sucker is hard to remove!
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:49 PM   #85
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you all are nuts,,

don't get me wrong, I put a RX on mine at 7,000 miles and did a aerosol seafoam treatment into the TB, for $150 what the hell,

But lets go back to the drawing board here,, now what harm does having deposits on your valves do?? As long as the valve seats keep themselves clean what's the difference?

It will be interesting to see if people without the catch cans have problems down the road... What are your predictions?
Wow, if this is the same guy at MC (CyCam1), he is a trip. Same thing at the MC site/ Present him with a ton of evidence, and still the same old diatribe. If not CyCam1, sorry.

Bottom line...can catches oil. That oil would go into intake, causing build up on valves. What about that is so hard to understand? There is tons of info. proving / showing build-up.

It's not complicated.
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:59 PM   #86
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I only have 3K on my new Camaro. I guess I know what I'm buying with my next paycheck...
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:48 PM   #87
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Wow, if this is the same guy at MC (CyCam1), he is a trip. Same thing at the MC site/ Present him with a ton of evidence, and still the same old diatribe. If not CyCam1, sorry.

Bottom line...can catches oil. That oil would go into intake, causing build up on valves. What about that is so hard to understand? There is tons of info. proving / showing build-up.

It's not complicated.
I don't think this the same guy, although I believe he is on this forum, spouting his engineering credentials and calling catch can users suckers. Can't remember his username here, though.
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:37 AM   #88
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Just completed another oil change 2 days ago. This is what was in my catch can after 3500 miles. I have been saying for for 2 1/2 years that it collects approx 1 oz per 1000 miles. Looks like it caught a little more this time. I did do some spirited driving at the local Waterford Race Track during the Camaro Superfest Show. These higher engine revs tend to force more oil into the catch can. Now imagine all this all going into your intake manifold and all over the valves too, with nothing to help clean them off. This is not a 2 stroke engine. I have stopped over a quart of oil from passing thru my intake since I added my catch can.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:49 AM   #89
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Just completed another oil change 2 days ago. This is what was in my catch can after 3500 miles. I have been saying for for 2 1/2 years that it collects approx 1 oz per 1000 miles. Looks like it caught a little more this time. I did do some spirited driving at the local Waterford Race Track during the Camaro Superfest Show. These higher engine revs tend to force more oil into the catch can. Now imagine all this all going into your intake manifold and all over the valves too, with nothing to help clean them off. This is not a 2 stroke engine. I have stopped over a quart of oil from passing thru my intake since I added my catch can.


That is a lot. I guess we will see how much my elite can catches whenever i get up to that amount of miles on it. Have just about 50 miles on it and haven't seen a drop of oil in it
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Old 10-25-2013, 03:13 PM   #90
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Perhaps Techron would be better for cleaning carbon off the valves? I may try...
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:14 PM   #91
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Perhaps Techron would be better for cleaning carbon off the valves? I may try...
Give it a shot and let us know what happens.
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:30 PM   #92
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Old 10-26-2013, 01:07 PM   #93
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I didn't see it on the first post, but did you happen to note which of the cylinders was in the worst shape as car as carbon build up? Just wondering if what you have seen coincides with what I'm seeing on my car.

I don't see any build up yet, but I am seeing what I would call excessive oil consumption in cyl's #1, and #6, while the rest of the cylinder intake ports are looking fairly clean.
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Old 10-26-2013, 01:50 PM   #94
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I didn't see it on the first post, but did you happen to note which of the cylinders was in the worst shape as car as carbon build up? Just wondering if what you have seen coincides with what I'm seeing on my car.

I don't see any build up yet, but I am seeing what I would call excessive oil consumption in cyl's #1, and #6, while the rest of the cylinder intake ports are looking fairly clean.
I'll try to check my pictures when I get home from work later and see if I can tell.
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:39 AM   #95
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This is exactly the thread I need! Couple questions:

I got the catch can on fairly early, but I did run without it for maybe a few thousand miles... don't really remember. At one point it was also noted that the drain on the catch can had been left open for an unknown amount of time ( not sure if this was dealer after some warranty work, or I forgot to shut it after draining ) but I drain it pretty often so at most it was less than a single oil change. Is that terribly bad? I was wondering what I should expect and if maybe it would be worthwhile to have the dealer do a top end cleaning?

A while back I had a small leak on the front engine cover and the dealer replaced that and some other seals (warranty covered). Would they have cleaned up the top end then? Seems like they would clean everything they had taken apart before putting it back together. I know personally I wouldn't put it back together dirty, but I didn't think to make a point of it at the time.

I'm looking at doing a seafoam and maybe cleaning up the valves soon - depending on what they look like - while also adding a Vmax throttle body and ice-olator. I'd appreciate any and all tips, and how long should I plan on? This thread and a couple others have been great! I'll try to do some before and after pics as well.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:13 AM   #96
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I didn't see it on the first post, but did you happen to note which of the cylinders was in the worst shape as car as carbon build up? Just wondering if what you have seen coincides with what I'm seeing on my car.

I don't see any build up yet, but I am seeing what I would call excessive oil consumption in cyl's #1, and #6, while the rest of the cylinder intake ports are looking fairly clean.
OK, sorry for the delay.

I went back and reviewed my photos, and from what I remember, the worst valves were on the passenger side front cylinder, which I believe is #2, if this drawing is correct, right?

NOTE: See Sycraft's post below. This drawing is incorrect, per info from GM. The cylinder numbering for the 3.6L V6 is actually the mirror image of this drawing.

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Old 10-30-2013, 09:20 AM   #97
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This is exactly the thread I need! Couple questions:

I got the catch can on fairly early, but I did run without it for maybe a few thousand miles... don't really remember. At one point it was also noted that the drain on the catch can had been left open for an unknown amount of time ( not sure if this was dealer after some warranty work, or I forgot to shut it after draining ) but I drain it pretty often so at most it was less than a single oil change. Is that terribly bad? I was wondering what I should expect and if maybe it would be worthwhile to have the dealer do a top end cleaning?

A while back I had a small leak on the front engine cover and the dealer replaced that and some other seals (warranty covered). Would they have cleaned up the top end then? Seems like they would clean everything they had taken apart before putting it back together. I know personally I wouldn't put it back together dirty, but I didn't think to make a point of it at the time.

I'm looking at doing a seafoam and maybe cleaning up the valves soon - depending on what they look like - while also adding a Vmax throttle body and ice-olator. I'd appreciate any and all tips, and how long should I plan on? This thread and a couple others have been great! I'll try to do some before and after pics as well.
You may want to have a cleaning done, or do it yourself, but you probably don't have a TON of buildup after only a few thousand miles. My valve pictures were after ~26,000 miles.

Running with the drain valve open basically introduced a vacuum leak, which if it didn't cause a CEL is probably no biggie now that it's closed. But, your catch can was basically doing nothing during that time.

I wouldn't count on the dealer having done a cleaning when you had the repair done, unless it's specifically part of the repair procedure. If you're talking about the timing chain cover, I don't know if they have to disassemble the heads and take apart the valvetrain for that, but I'd guess no.

Swapping the TB is literally like a 10 minute job, maybe 20 if you're going slow and careful. Pulling the IM takes a bit longer and is more involved, plan on a couple of hours of dis-/reassembly. Look at intensifi's DIY for details. Once it's off, it's easy to see the intake valves, and you'll know where they're at as far as buildup goes.

Can't speak to the spacer, but if you have it apart to check the valves, I can't imagine adding it as part of the reassembly would add very much time at all.
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:09 PM   #98
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Thanks man, I appreciate the advice. I'm shooting for next friday for the intake manifold dissassembly, maybe even throw a coat of paint on it. I'll be sure to post up my findings!
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Old 11-09-2013, 07:23 AM   #99
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Engine Component Description (LFX)
The High Feature V6 (VIN Code Identifier “3” for both cars and trucks) RPO LFX is a 3.6 Liter VVT (Variable Valve Timing) engine with direct injection. The LFX has E85-compatible valves and seats with special materials and coatings that require slightly different service procedures from gasoline valves. The direct injection system places the high pressure injectors in the cylinder heads. This engine incorporates 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves per cylinder, and uses a dual overhead cam design with individual intake and exhaust camshafts. A camshaft position actuator is mounted on each camshaft. The cylinders are arranged in 2 banks of 3 with a 60 degree included angle. The right bank of cylinders are number 1-3-5 and the left bank of cylinders are 2-4-6, viewed from the flywheel end of the engine. The engine firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6.

as per GM technical Info
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:07 AM   #100
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Thanks, Sycraft.

So the drawing I posted in #96 above is incorrect (actually, exactly opposite).

My worst cylinder was therefore #1.
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