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Old 06-21-2013, 11:49 PM   #71
hawk02
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My intake arrived yesterday and the plan is to install it this weekend.

I'm going over the instructions and in step 8 it says to "Remove the breather fitting from the stock intake. First use side cuts to remove the clamp retaining the breather assembly to the stock rubber inlet."

Can someone explain what exactly are these side cuts? There's no mention of a cutting tool in Tools/Items needed section so I'm just a bit confused as to what this means.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:15 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by hawk02 View Post
My intake arrived yesterday and the plan is to install it this weekend.

I'm going over the instructions and in step 8 it says to "Remove the breather fitting from the stock intake. First use side cuts to remove the clamp retaining the breather assembly to the stock rubber inlet."

Can someone explain what exactly are these side cuts? There's no mention of a cutting tool in Tools/Items needed section so I'm just a bit confused as to what this means.
It's just a pair of wire cutters. Mine weren't able to cut the clamp, so I used a small screwdriver. I put it in where the clamp is squeezed and worked it back and forth until the clamp was loose. Just be careful if you do it this way not to be too aggressive as to put a hole in the factory intake or break the valve. Definitely use the soap they recommend for the valve removal. Good luck installation was a snap.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:15 AM   #73
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It's just a pair of wire cutters. Mine weren't able to cut the clamp, so I used a small screwdriver. I put it in where the clamp is squeezed and worked it back and forth until the clamp was loose. Just be careful if you do it this way not to be too aggressive as to put a hole in the factory intake or break the valve. Definitely use the soap they recommend for the valve removal. Good luck installation was a snap.
Thanks for the info. I thought cutting the clamp off is what the instructions are asking you to do, but when there was no mention of a cutting tool in the tools/items needed list I started to have some second thoughts.

So my next question is how easy is it to find a replacement clamp should you ever decide to return to the factory air box?
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:53 PM   #74
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Thanks for the info. I thought cutting the clamp off is what the instructions are asking you to do, but when there was no mention of a cutting tool in the tools/items needed list I started to have some second thoughts.

So my next question is how easy is it to find a replacement clamp should you ever decide to return to the factory air box?
Good question. That clamp looks like a GM design installed with special tooling. More than likely a worm clamp properly sized and tightened should work fine. That is my plan if I need to return to the OEM air box.
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:38 PM   #75
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Good question. That clamp looks like a GM design installed with special tooling. More than likely a worm clamp properly sized and tightened should work fine. That is my plan if I need to return to the OEM air box.
You're probably right about a worm clamp being the best option as a replacement. Although as snug as the connection between the breather element and factory elbow is, a clamp may not even be necessary.

I ended up using a pair of tin snips to cut the "hump" in the clamp on the underside of connection. I think it's a rather big omission on the part of Roto-Fab not to mention the need for a cutting tool. Even the video glosses over the clamp removal. The instructions and video provide good detail for every step of the install except this one.
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:24 PM   #76
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Some parts stores actually carry the clamps. You are supposed to use a special tool to squeeze the clamp shut, it pushes down on the center while you squeeze the sides. If I put the original back on I'll just use a hose clamp that can be bought anywhere. It does the same thing it's just not as fancy looking and is removable. A lot of CV boots use those style clamps so people don't mess with them.
Glad to see that everything else went well.

Do you have a dual valve catch can, and if so how did you hook it up to the "T" valve with the hose sizes being different? I'm trying to find a nice plain and clean way to do it.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:08 PM   #77
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Some parts stores actually carry the clamps. You are supposed to use a special tool to squeeze the clamp shut, it pushes down on the center while you squeeze the sides. If I put the original back on I'll just use a hose clamp that can be bought anywhere. It does the same thing it's just not as fancy looking and is removable. A lot of CV boots use those style clamps so people don't mess with them.
Glad to see that everything else went well.

Do you have a dual valve catch can, and if so how did you hook it up to the "T" valve with the hose sizes being different? I'm trying to find a nice plain and clean way to do it.
The biggest issue I had with the install was getting the breather canister positioned away from the pulley. I spent a good hour farting around with the elbow and 90 degree fitting making sure the canister was well away from the pulley. There's a little tilt to the canister but it doesn't appear any more excessive than what I saw in photos of some other installs. The rest of the installation didn't give me any problems.

I have an Elite catch can I transferred from previous Camaro so I didn't need to use the "T" valve.

The weather was so hot and humid this afternoon after I finished the install that I decided to wait until this evening when the temps were a little cooler to take a test drive. Unfortunately a band of thunderstorms came through around 7P and killed that idea. Hopefully the weather will be more cooperative in the morning.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:52 AM   #78
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The weather did cooperate this morning. Temps were in the upper 60's around 8am. Car does feel like is has a little more pull. And I love the sound of the supercharger under acceleration. I thought is was going to be a high pitched whirl but it's more like a whoosh sound. Very nice.

Here's a photo of my engine compartment with the Roto-fab intake. Photos from my iPhone in direct sunlight make it look like my car IOM but I swear it's victory red.
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:03 AM   #79
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The weather did cooperate this morning. Temps were in the upper 60's around 8am. Car does feel like is has a little more pull. And I love the sound of the supercharger under acceleration. I thought is was going to be a high pitched whirl but it's more like a whoosh sound. Very nice.
At WOT above 4k rpm, it's defiantly a high pitched sound like a whistle.
Very easy to hear with the top down, and I LOVE IT.
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:07 PM   #80
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awesome MOD its a MUST!!!!BTW my W/W is toching my filter dunno why! may be it will scub and damage the filter

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Old 03-30-2014, 07:22 PM   #81
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Damn. I threw my "t" away!
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Old 06-05-2014, 04:39 PM   #82
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My first mod installed it this past weekend. Name:  uploadfromtaptalk1402004309607.jpg
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Size:  107.7 KB[/ATTACH]

Sent from my Awesome S4
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Old 06-07-2014, 10:20 PM   #83
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Roto-Fab Cold Air Intake Installation Video

I'm in the middle of installing mine right now (purchased from Tyler@JDP) and have run into a little snag. I'll attach a picture to illustrate what I'm talking about but basically the loom that you're supposed to move inboard of the A/C service port actually runs under/through the A/C line and is causing fitment issues with the box. I can't get the stud/grommet to engage because this is making it a really tight fit. Anyone else see this? This loom runs to the MAF sensor, throttle body and one more place.

Unfortunately, I've scraped up the shock tower trying to wiggle this damn thing into place before I noticed what was going on.

Edit: I ran the hose or loom or whatever it is on top of the radiator bracket and got the box in. It's a right fit.

Final question: how much clearance should there be between the air canister and the belt?

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Old 06-09-2014, 03:32 PM   #84
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I'm in the middle of installing mine right now (purchased from Tyler@JDP) and have run into a little snag. I'll attach a picture to illustrate what I'm talking about but basically the loom that you're supposed to move inboard of the A/C service port actually runs under/through the A/C line and is causing fitment issues with the box. I can't get the stud/grommet to engage because this is making it a really tight fit. Anyone else see this? This loom runs to the MAF sensor, throttle body and one more place.

Unfortunately, I've scraped up the shock tower trying to wiggle this damn thing into place before I noticed what was going on.

Edit: I ran the hose or loom or whatever it is on top of the radiator bracket and got the box in. It's a right fit.

Final question: how much clearance should there be between the air canister and the belt?

Glad you got it figured out. As for the breather canister; clearance is close, but you can gain a little more room by rotating the fitting a little bit so it sits at a slight angle.

Best regards,

Tyler
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