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Old 03-04-2013, 05:54 PM   #276
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I forgot the link.

http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/...or/tran_7.html
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:47 PM   #277
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Anyone out there with some spare time want to build me a set and add a fee for your time? I am still deployed out in the middle east and i don't have a radio shack for about 3000 miles.

Be happy to paypal someone for their time.

IM me if you can help.

Thx Wizzer
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:16 PM   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjmautoprod View Post
Here's the prototype on a perfboard...
Prototype...so you plan to make a model for retail? Plug and play? Time frame?
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:15 AM   #279
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That doesn't look like finished product...
sequential turn signal have to work like this in my opinion:
1. inner lamp turns on (outer is off)
2. 0.25s delay outer lamp turns on
3. they both stay on for any time (pressed on brake or turn signal)
4. inner lamp turns off BUT OUTER STILL is ON
5. 0.25s delay outer lamp turns OFF

the delay have to be the same (between turning on and off) in any case - that's my point. and durance can be changed

i'm working on it and soon will post scheme and how final product looks))
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:12 AM   #280
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These will be an option on our afterburners, and, we'll also offer them separately. The initial, production boards should be in tomorrow.
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:29 AM   #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjmautoprod View Post
These will be an option on our afterburners, and, we'll also offer them separately. The initial, production boards should be in tomorrow.
Pm me with price when ready please. I would like sequential lights. Thx
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:05 PM   #282
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Here's a shot of a production board with a stand-in transistor ((MOSFET's not in yet)..
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:12 AM   #283
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Who or where is this available at? When can I acquire one? Awesome job with it, looks fantastic!
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:20 PM   #284
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Since this is a DIY thread, we will make the boards available for those that want to build this.
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:03 PM   #285
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Ok, I'm considering doing this. I just want to verify that the last parts list for the relay setup (post# 245) includes EVERYTHING needed for this DIY. This includes all the resistors needed so the BCM doesn't error out. Everything to make this a success.

So far that parts list is about $54 (minus shipping), so I'm hoping it's complete.

Thanks,
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:05 AM   #286
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It was a while ago, but I'm pretty sure I included everything except wire and solder to make the connections. P/N RT50J-5.0-ND is the resistor you're wondering about. It's a 5 Ohm, 50 W through-hole resistor.

After looking at the relay I choose, I think this one would be a better choice: 255-1239-ND. It's got a higher contact rating and is cheaper.
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:30 AM   #287
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Highlifeman - that's what I thought because of that part, but I just wanted to be sure. :-)

Yup, I also saw your post a few later changing the relays and took that into account as well, but appreciate the re-update.

Looks like I'm good to go then for about $54 plus shipping. We'll see what happens. Thanks for the updated info and I'll use the latest posted schematic.

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Old 07-07-2013, 04:08 PM   #288
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I thought I would upload a "tweaked" relay schematic. I really didn't change much, but I just added a couple of notes that I got from reviewing this entire thread. I hope this helps out people. I just ordered the parts via Digi-key, so just waiting for them to come in. Once they do, then I'll hope I can solder them all together as the others have and come out with a working unit. I'll then post up a Youtube video of my success.
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:04 PM   #289
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:11 PM   #290
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Good DIY write up. Thanks to all
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:30 AM   #291
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I pussed out and bought the kit from rpidesigns for $89. Coupon code save and camaro5 took 5 bucks off each possible more codes out there but it's listed at $99. Feel like something would go wrong for me if I tried a full diy. Thanks for the write up considered this for awhile but went the conservative route.

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Old 07-11-2013, 11:07 PM   #292
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I just received all of my "parts" today. I think this weekend I'll work on putting them together and see what goes. Hopefully I read the schematic right and don't wire something up incorrectly. LOL

Will post up how it goes.
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Old 07-13-2013, 04:59 PM   #293
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Guys, I was about to start this today, but wanted to confirm one thing first. On the schematics that got put up, any lines that intersected (WITHOUT a hump over it) were actually connected together, correct????

Normally there is a dot at connections, but I saw that humps were drawn in, which usually indicates no connection, so I wanted to make sure. I didn't want to make all these connections at these intersecting lines and come to find out they weren't supposed to be connected. LOL!

Thanks,
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:46 AM   #294
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That's correct. The software I used to draw those doesn't put in dots and uses the humps instead to signify no connection.
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Old 07-15-2013, 02:15 PM   #295
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If anyone wants to build me one of these, pm me price you will charge
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:05 AM   #296
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Ok, it took me a couple of days to sign back in after the site was down. Anyway, I built one side of the taillights and tried to install it and it did not work. :( I don't know if I hooked it up to the incorrect wire or if I built it wrong according to the schematic.

I tried it on the passenger side, so I used the green/white wire, just like it was mentioned in the thread. However, I cut the green/white wire that was going to the OUTSIDE bulb. Is this correct???? I tried it there and it did not work. Just kept giving me the bad bulb error on the DIC. (and the bulb didn't light up at all)

Or was I supposed to cut the wire next to the connector for the harness instead of the one going to the outside bulb? I don't want to be cutting my harness all up. I couldn't get back on C5 to view the info because it was down. :(

If connecting it to the outer bulb was okay, then I must have built it wrong. If so, then my second question is, does it matter where you make the connection points of the wires? Meaning, on the schematic, for example, the wire going from the module back out to the green/white wire (positive power) shows that it is connected at 3 different points; one is to the 8 pin on the timer, one is to the 2 pin on the relay and one is to the 1 COM pin on the relay. However, there are other items hooked in there as well, such as the adjuster (to adjust the speed of the lights - sorry, don't know what to call it off hand) and a diode and another diode off of the 2 & 5 pins of the relays. Do they HAVE to be attached in an exact order?

I think I took the wire from the 1 COM pin and attached it to the banded end of the diode by the relay and also connected a wire from the 2 pin of the relay to the banded end of the diode. Would this be okay? I did stuff like that. So, to me, it's all connected, but if it has to be connected EXACTLY as the schematic shows (where I actually take the diode and solder it to the relay pins 2 & 5 and then solder another wire on top of the diode wire at pin 2 on the relay and then lead that out to another wire that I have coming from the 1 COM pin as my lead out wire to the connection to the green/white wire...etc.

I hope I'm explaining this correctly. I feel like I'm not. :( I have a feeling I just wasted my money. :(
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:55 AM   #297
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The Output wire (the one that goes to the Green wire) is Pin 3 (N.O.) on the Relay. What you described was the input to the circuit, not Output
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:36 PM   #298
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You may have it hooked up "backwards". Try switching the connection points of the two halves of the green/white wire. I'm not entirely clear on what you're saying though, so if you could post any pictures, it would help a lot.

Just to be clear, the green/white wire gets cut and one side of the cut gets connected to the input and the other to the output. So only one wire per side actually gets cut, and the circuit is placed in between the harness and the bulb. It doesn't matter where along the green/white wire this is done as long as the correct side goes to the correct point in the circuit. The NO terminal on the relay gets connected to the half of the wire connected to the outside bulb, and the other half (connected to the harness) to the input.

As for your other questions, it sounds like you built it right. It doesn't matter where the connections are made as long as it's connected correctly. Just be sure you have the diodes in the right direction; it sounds like you do from the ones you described.

I hope you get what I'm saying. I'm clearly a typical engineer and terrible at explaining things, lol.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:36 PM   #299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizzer View Post
Anyone out there with some spare time want to build me a set and add a fee for your time? I am still deployed out in the middle east and i don't have a radio shack for about 3000 miles.

Be happy to paypal someone for their time.

IM me if you can help.

Thx Wizzer
your S6 prolly has those parts here. ive ordered small resistors etc from amazon to get shipped here.
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Old 07-18-2013, 06:37 PM   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highlifeman View Post
You may have it hooked up "backwards". Try switching the connection points of the two halves of the green/white wire. I'm not entirely clear on what you're saying though, so if you could post any pictures, it would help a lot.

Just to be clear, the green/white wire gets cut and one side of the cut gets connected to the input and the other to the output. So only one wire per side actually gets cut, and the circuit is placed in between the harness and the bulb. It doesn't matter where along the green/white wire this is done as long as the correct side goes to the correct point in the circuit. The NO terminal on the relay gets connected to the half of the wire connected to the outside bulb, and the other half (connected to the harness) to the input.

As for your other questions, it sounds like you built it right. It doesn't matter where the connections are made as long as it's connected correctly. Just be sure you have the diodes in the right direction; it sounds like you do from the ones you described.

I hope you get what I'm saying. I'm clearly a typical engineer and terrible at explaining things, lol.
Nope, that's exactly how I hooked it up. I cut the green/white wire ONCE (it happened to be the connection/wire going to the outside bulb socket). I took the wire now going to the bulb and hooked that up to the Pin 3 NO side as I was supposed to. I then took the other side of the wire (going back through/into the harness) and hooked that up to the 1 COM wire (along with other connections on it). I then grounded the black wire to the body.

I also made sure to connect the diodes the right way (silver band went towards the | side in the diode part of the schematic) according to the information I found online on which way the diodes were supposed to go.

So, from my understanding, I did hook it up properly. Only thing I'm worried about now is either something didn't solder all the way like it should have or I connected something wrong. However, if it doesn't matter "where" I connected them, as long as they were the right way (diodes) and the wires connected properly, it should work.

Again, I didn't try both sides at once, I only connected one side, but I figured it should still work on just one side, right?

Damn, I'm not quite sure how to "verify" if my soldering was correct and/or where something might not be soldered correctly on the board. Ugggghhh..
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