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Old 06-28-2013, 09:28 PM   #1
pdiddy
 
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forced induction must haves and might wants based on hp

I wanted to start a thread since me and so many others have gone through the same head busting read until your eyes fall out situation when getting boosted.

So what I purpose is a thread where people post what they think is needed for suporting mods based on hp/boost. I figure we can use hp ranges as followed. This can be adjusted just some starting grounds. The idea is for people to post what they believe are must haves and might wants when going forced induction. I will start with what I have learned and please add if you think other items are needed based off experince. Obviously this can be all over the board but just give people some good starting grounds to budget for.

500-550 hp 6lbs of boost
-injectors (ls9)(zl1) or bigger MUST HAVE
-2 bar map sensor (my tuner said I didnt need this but hear others say they like having them makes tunning easier) MIGHT WANT
-colder spark plugs MIGHT WANT
-160 degree thermostat MIGHT WANT
-tires to hook up with MIGHT WANT


550-600 8-10lbs of boost ???
fuel pump upgrade MUST HAVE
injectors 60lbs or larger MUST HAVE
?
?
?

600-700 ????

700+ ?????

I will let the experts take it from here. The uprades needed or suggested can be engine drive line whatever just post what you think is a must or a might want given certain hp and torque ranges.
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:31 PM   #2
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I will add a oil seperator/catch can prob a must on anything 550 and above and a might want on anything below.
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:51 PM   #3
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:52 PM   #4
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700+ varies by the build. Only three things you need: money, time, and a good shop (or the ability to do it yourself).
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:25 PM   #5
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550hp, TT kit 5-6psi
650hp, TT kit 7-8psi
750hp, TT kit 10-11psi

Comes with plugs, map, fuel, everything needed.

Just adjust the boost. Over 750hp add a motor/drivetrain and dual pump then make 1000.
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:14 AM   #6
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I was going to say..

750 - long tubes, centri, meth, 93 oct+ and the balls to run it and fix something later if need be.
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Old 06-29-2013, 01:02 AM   #7
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You dont need a 160 degree thermostat for anything you listed. Im running the stock one with no issues.
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:05 AM   #8
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What about forged internals? At what point does that become a must? I'm a hair under 500 NA and want to boost. Don't know if I should boost first or forge the internals first. My max goal would be 750ish so I know I have to but which first? Not saying I'll jump from 500 to 750 but... I can probably only do one or the other at a time because what I do to mine must equal what I do to the wife's. she doesn't mind the mods but she wants hers too.
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Old 06-29-2013, 03:52 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mp51998 View Post
What about forged internals? At what point does that become a must? I'm a hair under 500 NA and want to boost. Don't know if I should boost first or forge the internals first. My max goal would be 750ish so I know I have to but which first? Not saying I'll jump from 500 to 750 but... I can probably only do one or the other at a time because what I do to mine must equal what I do to the wife's. she doesn't mind the mods but she wants hers too.

750ish to the wheels is totally doable on stock engine. Good safe tune with enough octane and good oil is all you need.
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:09 AM   #10
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Unless you are like a few folks on here that never seem to run out of money, you will need more and more the bigger you go.

Unless you can do the work yourself, a high quality shop and proper tuning is the most critical component and the bigger you get the more important it becomes.

As you continue up the HP levels, fuel becomes a bigger and bigger issue. Injector size, fuel rails, fuels lines, and fuel pump upgrades will become a must. While I run Meth, it is not required as you long as you run good gas or move up in octane levels as needed or to E85.

In order to achieve some of these numbers, you will need a cam and all corresponding valve train upgrades. If you really turn up the boost, you start worrying about head lift and valve float which could necessitate moving to at least head studs, better valves with appropriate head work, or a 6 bolt head.

The rest of it really depends on how you plan to use the car. This could impact bottom end, transmission, converter, clutches, drivetrain, suspension and tires. A dyno queen that just rolls the street may never need these upgrades. While a typical street/strip car will end up needing some of it to make good use of that power. If you plan to run sanctioned events, you have to start addressing safety items (roll cage, harnesses, etc.)

All of this this really depends on use, driver, and the risk the owner is willing to assume. Do I take a chance of breaking at the track/street or do I beef it up now?

The last and final option is to become Jaime and just have Ted on call 24/7 and with a seemingly endless checkbook.
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:11 AM   #11
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To forge or not to forge on big HP builds, that is the question. Some have had great success over 650rwhp without forging the internals and some have not.

You will reach a point where just a few more HP gets exponentially more expensive.

I decided to forge and stroke, but I wanted a build that was as bullet proof as possible. Seem to me, from a money stand point, it was cheaper to forge than to replace the whole engine down the road if I blew it up.
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:21 AM   #12
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there is people running over 900whp on the stock bottom end.

you fuel pump with bigger injectors and a BAP will support 650whp

anything around or over 650whp and your stock A6 trans will start to flare the shifts after alittle while. unless you have it built.

no one really no the limits of the stock half shafts or rear end yet. esp if you are not always at the track. a buddy of mines manuel 5th gen puts down over 1100whp and his half shafts and center section are 100% stock for over a year now with no problem.
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:53 PM   #13
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you can have anything you want if u have cash and a good shop with a GOOD TUNER..
If you dont have those 3 you will never have a setup that will Last!
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngelSpeedFreak View Post
This is what you need. Lol.the most accurate post I've ever read.

1) money
2) balls
3) stomach ... When things don't go right
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:36 PM   #15
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I was not saying the themostat was a much but for how cheap it is it cant hurt to get one. I know alot of guys on here use the 160 degree stat but its just up to the build and how good your cooling system is working. I was curious about the half shafts when they start to fail. I am sure it depends on if you track alot or not and how you are hooking up.
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:46 PM   #16
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Here is some good accurate reading material
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...e/viewall.html
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Old 06-29-2013, 03:17 PM   #17
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nice article seems extreme in some cases but still good
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Old 06-29-2013, 03:26 PM   #18
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Axles seem to be the weak link. Wheel hop is usually the big culprit, follow closely by sticky tires hooking up. Ls3 seems to be way more prone to breaking things.
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Old 06-30-2013, 03:14 PM   #19
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we have plenty of LS3's making 700+rwhp

proper fueling and tuning is a MUST. Along with a shop that has experiance with these types of builds and not just someone that wants to throw parts at your car and hope to make HP
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