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Old 07-01-2013, 04:34 AM   #15
axis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr pogo View Post
Ive seen mention of it in different threads that it may interfere with the ground.

this is a ZL thread but the ground stud location is similar I believe.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=40
Well if it's posted on the internet, it's got to be true.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:30 AM   #16
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Well, I looked over all the possible locations, and as far as convenience of emptying the catch can goes, the Positive Battery Jumper Bracket looks like the easiest to reach for draining.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:04 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rray View Post
Well, I looked over all the possible locations, and as far as convenience of emptying the catch can goes, the Positive Battery Jumper Bracket looks like the easiest to reach for draining.
That is correct. That played the biggest factor in selecting that location. I can easily fit a small cup and still have room to open the valve.
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:45 PM   #18
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I mounted the can today, after the fitting paint had cured a couple days. I drilled 2 6mm holes in the positive jumper post frame, and used M6 x 1 Socket Head SS bolts:


Overhead view shows the top of the can sits just under the red positive terminal cap, so it's low enough not to interfere with jumper cables. It almost sits under the strut tower brace:


Here is the front view showing the can placement. There really is enough room underneath it to sit anything from a Dixie Cup to a Coffee Mug in place, and still easily turn the drain petcock:


And it sits low enough that the hoses should be very easy to run underneath the engine cover for the front, and behind the cover for the rear connection without detracting from the engine compartment's overall appearance:


Thanks for all the tips guys.
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:55 PM   #19
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Just remember to turn the canister around. The back of the motor should run to the middle of the can and the hose under the throttle body should run to the top of the can. My picture I have the hoses backwards. Both ways will still catch oil but the way I just described is supposed to be the correct way.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:35 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dixonk View Post
Just remember to turn the canister around. The back of the motor should run to the middle of the can and the hose under the throttle body should run to the top of the can. My picture I have the hoses backwards. Both ways will still catch oil but the way I just described is supposed to be the correct way.
That's the way it looks like it's suppose to be but it's the other way around. There was a thread about it a while back. One of the guys posted that the way Mike told him to run it was, dirty air goes in the top and the suction goes in the side.

This pic taken from Mikes site is of a LS6 but the principal is the same. You can clearly see the line from the intake manifold (suction) going to the middle nipple. The top line goes below the intake (dirty air).

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Old 07-03-2013, 11:57 AM   #21
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That's the way I thought it was supposed to be and when I posted on here I had people tell me it was backwards. They showed pics of elite and rx cans configured that way as well. I prefer it the mike Norris way because the hose routing is cleaner.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:45 PM   #22
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Why don't catch cans come with detailed instructions specific to a particular car and engine? I am thinking about finally getting a catch can and this Norris one is one that I am considering. I guess the instructions must be kind of generic. At least we all have this forum with good info from all of you to get it done.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dixonk View Post
That's the way I thought it was supposed to be and when I posted on here I had people tell me it was backwards. They showed pics of elite and rx cans configured that way as well. I prefer it the mike Norris way because the hose routing is cleaner.
Mike's CC's are totally backward from everyone elses. I agree that common sense says it should be dirty air in the side, vacuum on the top, but Mike designed it to be the other way around. I have mine plumbed the same way you do and have yet to switch it around. I'm always meaning to, but can't seem to remember once I get off of here, haha.
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Halltech CF 102 fed
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Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

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Old 07-03-2013, 02:19 PM   #24
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Guess I need to switch it around again. Getting the fuel line off of the fittings is not an easy job.
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:56 AM   #25
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After reading all I could about which is the clean side and which is the dirty side, and consulting the instruction sheet again I read this on the instruction sheet:

Quote:
...cut enough hose to run from the passenger valve cover or valley cover hose end to the upper fitting on th catch can.
I took that to mean the top fitting on the catch can is the dirty side and goes to the drivers side valve cover PCV nipple near the firewall on L99 engines, and connected accordingly. I took pictures of how I routed everything for those that may be contemplating this install:

First, to remove the old hose in-tact without breaking the connectors off, here is a picture of one. It is a cheap quick connect fitting, that you have to release the locking tab with a slight circular pull of the tab, then the fitting easily pulls off:


After removing the old tube, you will have a metal nipple on the valve cover, and a plastic one behind the throttle body. I used the hose provided in the kit to connect from the top of the MNM Catch Can to the valve cover nipple:


Then ty-wrapped the hose to the air conditioning freon line so it would not move around:


Next I ran 3.5 feet of 9.5mm or 3/8" fuel hose from the side of the MNM Catch Can (The Clean Side) under the throttle body, and ty-wrapped the line to a convienient wire loom, following it's contour for appearance:


Finally, I left plenty of service loop as to avoid hose kinks, and routed the hose to the vacuum intake nipple:


The engine cover fits perfectly un-obstructed, and overall, it was a clean install:


I did not use any hose clamps, and went out an tore it up for a while, then inspected and found all hoses were still connected. I did purchase small hose clamps, but will inspect regularly over the next few weeks to see if I really need them, because they look ugly, and I have been cut too many times from those type of hose clamps.
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:32 PM   #26
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I bought hose clamps as well but quickly found the hoses are not coming off without a ton of muscle and a flat tip screw driver pulling them off.
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Old 07-04-2013, 02:26 PM   #27
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The length of tubing required to hit both spots was one of the reasons I chose the location I did. I have about 8-12in on each line. Used small black zipties on the can side only. The engine sides were more than tight enough. It's a vacuum system so no worries about blowing a hose off.
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Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:57 PM   #28
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Great thread with great info.

Let us know if anybody has any trouble mounting these Catch Cans. They are designed to fit most all LSX cars and trucks universally (just like all the other cans do) so it can be trickey in some cases and depending on where you mount it, you might need extra hose.

With that being said, don't mount them horizontally. Not intended for them to work at all that way...even though it looks really rad!

Here to help if needed and thank you for the support on them! Great product!

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