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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 06-30-2013, 10:40 AM   #1
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Seek Advice: Mike Norris Catch Can on 2013 L99

I have spent several hours combing the web and this site looking for tips on installing the Mike Norris Catch Can on the 2013 L99 engine.

First, at least on the 2013 L99, the PCV system uses super cheap soda straw thin tubing, and cryptic connector clips to attach to their connection points.

Second, with only 16 inches of tube in the kit, I cannot see a way to connect the catch can.

And third, The easiest way to mount the kit means I would have to mount the catch can diagonally, and I am not sure if that is a good idea. So I would like to get some experienced suggestions before I order up new hardware to do the job properly.

Here are pics I took this morning when I was preparing to do the install:

The 2013 L99 has the PCV valve at the rear drivers side of the engine compartment. The tubing used all over this engine is very cheap black thin-wall plastic, about as thick at soda bottle plastic.


Here is where the PCV valve is on the drivers side of the engine, next to the firewall. I assume it is part of this plastic connection. I was expecting to find a metal check valve with a rubber hose attached.


Here is the other end of the tube. Again I was expecting to find a metal barb to slip rubber hose over, but instead find this flimsy plastic fitting that I cannot figure out how to remove without breaking it. I assume it is a clip on fitting, but I cannot find a clip to bend back, and if I pull it WILL break:


Once I have a solution to the hose mounting connections at the throttle body and valve cover, I can only see this location as being a place to mount the catch can where I would be able to re-install the engine cover, and sensibly route the hoses. I realize it will have reduced reservoir capacity mounted diagonally, but I suspect it should still function OK:


This is the bolt I found where I might be able to mount the catch can bracket on an L99.



Has anyone installed a Mike Norris catch can on a 2013 L99 yet, and if so, did you do it like this?

What trick was used to remove the plastic fittings from the PCV line ends without breaking them? Or do those get replaced with metal fittings.

I'll admit I'm 30 years out of the hobby, but now that I'm an empty nest-er I have the time and money to play with my car. I bought it strictly as a toy, so if I break it, it won't hurt me to let it sit till I can fix it. But I really would like to do a little research and do things right the first time.

Thanks for your help,
Robert
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:52 AM   #2
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Considerably more room to mount it once you ditch the ginormous air box.
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:29 PM   #3
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here is where I mounted mine,,, but you can easily remove the bottom bolt of the belt tensioner and mount it there.

the rear pcv connection... just remove fitting by sliding piece on bottom and lift up. run hose to top fitting on can,,, then on that piece you lifted from rear ,,,cut it at middle of manifold and connect to side fitting

hope this helps
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:41 PM   #4
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Don't know if this will help.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289365
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:43 PM   #5
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You can get more hose from Auto Zone or something, it's 5/16th vacuum hose.
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:51 PM   #6
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actually the Norris can comes with 3/8 hose but yah its too short a length for the L99.
I bought some more (earls SS hose but its pricy) but trans cooler hose would work as its oil proof.
youre supposed to cut the pcv hard plastic line at the top of the throttle body and slide the catch can hoses over the ends and clamp them.
I cut a section out a couplethree inches from the fitting at the side of the throttle body and at the top so its hidden by the engine cover.

I fabbed an extension bracket as I did not like the radiator mounting shown for LS3 installs and I dont even think it wouldve fit there anyways.

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Old 06-30-2013, 02:57 PM   #7
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ok, I cut the tubing just below the bend.



I cut the same tubing at where it goes over intake.
toss the tubing piece that was cut out and run the hoses to the appropriate ends.
the instructions tell you which hose goes where.



dont mount it there, it should be mounted vertical for best results.

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Old 06-30-2013, 05:46 PM   #8
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Thanks for the tips guys. Looks like I need to either fab an extension bracket or drill a hole to mount it to the positive jumper cable post bracket, unless anyone else has a more elegant solution?
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:02 PM   #9
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I can't find a decent pic but there's a grounding bolt coming off the passengers side head, in the front. There's a ground wire and a wire loom bracket on the bolt. There's enough thread left to put the CC bracket with another bolt on the end. I raised the can up in the bracket so it sticks up past the hoses. You cut the hard hose from the drivers side and just slide it in the rubber hose. No clamp needed since it's a vacuum and the fitment is pretty tight. The other CC line goes to where you disconnected the line you cut from the TB. If you really need pics, I can take a pic of mine but once you go out and look at it, it should be fairly straight forward. No extra hose or brackets needed.
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:09 PM   #10
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Here you can see the bolt just below the lower CC fitting. Notice how long the bolt is. You can easily put the MN CC bracket on there with a nut to tighten it down.

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Old 06-30-2013, 07:30 PM   #11
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I would not use the grounding stud for mounting anything else that may interfere with the electrical path.




here is a RX L99 can install with pics and instructions, very similar to the Norris.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...97#post6013097
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr pogo View Post
I would not use the grounding stud for mounting anything else that may interfere with the electrical path.
GM put a metal wire loom strap on that stud as well. The ground is obtained from touching the bolt. There is absolutely no ill affect from adding to the end of the bolt.
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axis View Post
GM put a metal wire loom strap on that stud as well. The ground is obtained from touching the bolt. There is absolutely no ill affect from adding to the end of the bolt.
Ive seen mention of it in different threads that it may interfere with the ground.

this is a ZL thread but the ground stud location is similar I believe.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=40

Quote:
There was an issue a while back where the GM ground wire stud was failing from guys mounting the can there as well.
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:43 PM   #14
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Clean way to mount Mike Norris is off the battery terminal bracket drivers side. Go to autozone and buy 4ft of 3/8" fuel line, drill a small hole in bracket and use a bolt and nut to mount it. Hoses are backwards in my picture but you get the idea.
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Old 07-01-2013, 04:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr pogo View Post
Ive seen mention of it in different threads that it may interfere with the ground.

this is a ZL thread but the ground stud location is similar I believe.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=40
Well if it's posted on the internet, it's got to be true.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:30 AM   #16
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Well, I looked over all the possible locations, and as far as convenience of emptying the catch can goes, the Positive Battery Jumper Bracket looks like the easiest to reach for draining.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:04 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rray View Post
Well, I looked over all the possible locations, and as far as convenience of emptying the catch can goes, the Positive Battery Jumper Bracket looks like the easiest to reach for draining.
That is correct. That played the biggest factor in selecting that location. I can easily fit a small cup and still have room to open the valve.
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:45 PM   #18
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I mounted the can today, after the fitting paint had cured a couple days. I drilled 2 6mm holes in the positive jumper post frame, and used M6 x 1 Socket Head SS bolts:


Overhead view shows the top of the can sits just under the red positive terminal cap, so it's low enough not to interfere with jumper cables. It almost sits under the strut tower brace:


Here is the front view showing the can placement. There really is enough room underneath it to sit anything from a Dixie Cup to a Coffee Mug in place, and still easily turn the drain petcock:


And it sits low enough that the hoses should be very easy to run underneath the engine cover for the front, and behind the cover for the rear connection without detracting from the engine compartment's overall appearance:


Thanks for all the tips guys.
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Audio: RF Dual 12" P3's, T400-2, T400-4, T1652-S, T1963, JBL MS-8, RFC1, Isolated Stinger SPV35.

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Old 07-02-2013, 10:55 PM   #19
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Just remember to turn the canister around. The back of the motor should run to the middle of the can and the hose under the throttle body should run to the top of the can. My picture I have the hoses backwards. Both ways will still catch oil but the way I just described is supposed to be the correct way.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:35 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dixonk View Post
Just remember to turn the canister around. The back of the motor should run to the middle of the can and the hose under the throttle body should run to the top of the can. My picture I have the hoses backwards. Both ways will still catch oil but the way I just described is supposed to be the correct way.
That's the way it looks like it's suppose to be but it's the other way around. There was a thread about it a while back. One of the guys posted that the way Mike told him to run it was, dirty air goes in the top and the suction goes in the side.

This pic taken from Mikes site is of a LS6 but the principal is the same. You can clearly see the line from the intake manifold (suction) going to the middle nipple. The top line goes below the intake (dirty air).

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Old 07-03-2013, 11:57 AM   #21
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That's the way I thought it was supposed to be and when I posted on here I had people tell me it was backwards. They showed pics of elite and rx cans configured that way as well. I prefer it the mike Norris way because the hose routing is cleaner.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:45 PM   #22
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Why don't catch cans come with detailed instructions specific to a particular car and engine? I am thinking about finally getting a catch can and this Norris one is one that I am considering. I guess the instructions must be kind of generic. At least we all have this forum with good info from all of you to get it done.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dixonk View Post
That's the way I thought it was supposed to be and when I posted on here I had people tell me it was backwards. They showed pics of elite and rx cans configured that way as well. I prefer it the mike Norris way because the hose routing is cleaner.
Mike's CC's are totally backward from everyone elses. I agree that common sense says it should be dirty air in the side, vacuum on the top, but Mike designed it to be the other way around. I have mine plumbed the same way you do and have yet to switch it around. I'm always meaning to, but can't seem to remember once I get off of here, haha.
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Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:19 PM   #24
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Guess I need to switch it around again. Getting the fuel line off of the fittings is not an easy job.
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:56 AM   #25
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After reading all I could about which is the clean side and which is the dirty side, and consulting the instruction sheet again I read this on the instruction sheet:

Quote:
...cut enough hose to run from the passenger valve cover or valley cover hose end to the upper fitting on th catch can.
I took that to mean the top fitting on the catch can is the dirty side and goes to the drivers side valve cover PCV nipple near the firewall on L99 engines, and connected accordingly. I took pictures of how I routed everything for those that may be contemplating this install:

First, to remove the old hose in-tact without breaking the connectors off, here is a picture of one. It is a cheap quick connect fitting, that you have to release the locking tab with a slight circular pull of the tab, then the fitting easily pulls off:


After removing the old tube, you will have a metal nipple on the valve cover, and a plastic one behind the throttle body. I used the hose provided in the kit to connect from the top of the MNM Catch Can to the valve cover nipple:


Then ty-wrapped the hose to the air conditioning freon line so it would not move around:


Next I ran 3.5 feet of 9.5mm or 3/8" fuel hose from the side of the MNM Catch Can (The Clean Side) under the throttle body, and ty-wrapped the line to a convienient wire loom, following it's contour for appearance:


Finally, I left plenty of service loop as to avoid hose kinks, and routed the hose to the vacuum intake nipple:


The engine cover fits perfectly un-obstructed, and overall, it was a clean install:


I did not use any hose clamps, and went out an tore it up for a while, then inspected and found all hoses were still connected. I did purchase small hose clamps, but will inspect regularly over the next few weeks to see if I really need them, because they look ugly, and I have been cut too many times from those type of hose clamps.
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GAZ 2013 2SS/RS Arrived June 13 2013, Mods:
Appearance: Blackout Bowties F and R, Blackout Fender Lettering, Painted Lettering on Engine Cover, Painted Strut Tower Brace, White Wiper Blades, White LED H13 DRL's, Blue Dome LED, Blackout Tail Light Bezels, DIYSF Afterburners.
Audio: RF Dual 12" P3's, T400-2, T400-4, T1652-S, T1963, JBL MS-8, RFC1, Isolated Stinger SPV35.

Video:
2013 Camaro 2SS/RS... Mylink removed, I7 Mobile Project
Enhancements: MNM Catch Can, GM Strut Tower Brace.
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