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Old 04-04-2013, 06:02 PM   #26
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Wow! Thx HRD_WRK! Already trucking with some Chevy on Chevy love. All you guys were a huge help. Thanks everyone. Oh and thank you Raymonds! Attachment 493563
Attachment 493564
Looks like you had to Dukes of Hazzard your way out of the car
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:26 AM   #27
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I have a stupid question. I'm about to buy a trailer...how do you get in and out of the car when it is on the trailer. Doesn't look like much room to open the door on any of these...
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:29 AM   #28
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I have a stupid question. I'm about to buy a trailer...how do you get in and out of the car when it is on the trailer. Doesn't look like much room to open the door on any of these...
You spend the money on a trailer with removable fenders. On my single open trailer the drivers door will just clear the fender. On low air the door rubs.
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:20 AM   #29
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I trailer mine everywhere, and I have mine lowered A LOT. Getting in and out of an enclosed trailer can be done two ways: go through the trunk; or crawl through the window. Window is easier, I just take my shoes off.

Some trailers have escape doors on the side so you can get out, but you can do it pretty easily without one.

Also, if you haven't trailered a car before, remember to leave the car in neutral and the parking brake off.
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:34 PM   #30
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. . .
Also, if you haven't trailered a car before, remember to leave the car in neutral and the parking brake off.
Intersting? . . . May I inquire as to the logic for this?
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:29 AM   #31
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I trailer mine everywhere, and I have mine lowered A LOT. Getting in and out of an enclosed trailer can be done two ways: go through the trunk; or crawl through the window. Window is easier, I just take my shoes off.

Some trailers have escape doors on the side so you can get out, but you can do it pretty easily without one.

Also, if you haven't trailered a car before, remember to leave the car in neutral and the parking brake off.
Absolutly not.

1 load car in or on trailer leave in neutral set parking brake
2 hook all for corners and snug straps
3 remove parking brake
4 tighten straps
5 set parking brake
6 put in park or gear.

Seting the parking brake after tieing down will cause no harm to the car what so ever. This is how the manufactures transport them!!!!

I know people disagree with cluster hooks and tieing down from the frame as I recomend but at least set the e brake.

Please don't belive everything you read talk to an old auto transporter. Someone who's been doing it for 30 years. Thats who taught me and we probably tied down over a thousand cars together helping him load.
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:53 AM   #32
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1 load car in or on trailer leave in neutral set parking brake
2 hook all for corners and snug straps
3 remove parking brake
4 tighten straps
5 set parking brake
6 put in park or gear.

Setting the parking brake after tieing down will cause no harm to the car what so ever. This is how the manufactures transport them!!!!

I know people disagree with cluster hooks and tieing down from the frame as I recommend but at least set the e brake.

Please don't belive everything you read talk to an old auto transporter. Someone who's been doing it for 30 years. Thats who taught me and we probably tied down over a thousand cars together helping him load.
Agree 100% ^ This is what I do too.

Use "J" hooks and tie the car down by the frame. I also criss cross the straps, which is to prevent the car from moving side to side in an "situation" . . .
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:05 AM   #33
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I have a stupid question. I'm about to buy a trailer...how do you get in and out of the car when it is on the trailer. Doesn't look like much room to open the door on any of these...
I can only speak for my open trailer, but even with the 5200 lbs axles and bigger wheel/tires, and lowered car, my doors open over the top of the fenders. I ordered it with removable fenders as SSS mentioned, but have never taken them off....
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:50 AM   #34
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Custom raised deck and an 8' wide awning door.



Crossed straps.



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Old 07-13-2013, 12:41 PM   #35
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When you have a fully finished trailer with flooring you'll know what I mean, if you leave it in gear or with the brake on it takes the floor up. The straps keep the car from going anywhere. Not to mention the stress on the drivetrain from knocking on the tranny.
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Old 07-13-2013, 04:57 PM   #36
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I can only speak for my open trailer, but even with the 5200 lbs axles and bigger wheel/tires, and lowered car, my doors open over the top of the fenders. I ordered it with removable fenders as SSS mentioned, but have never taken them off....
Thanks. Here's what I ended up with. I measured and the doors will clear the fenders with my street tires. I hope it is the same with slicks and skinnies (I'm waiting on my bogarts before I'll know for sure). If it drops it I'll probably put a 2x10 under the tires. I like the trunk escape someone suggested, but my seat won't go down since my roll bar was installed.

I'm planning to trailer w parking brake engaged. I can understand not outing in gear.
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:38 PM   #37
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When you have a fully finished trailer with flooring you'll know what I mean, if you leave it in gear or with the brake on it takes the floor up. The straps keep the car from going anywhere. Not to mention the stress on the drivetrain from knocking on the tranny.
If your rubber coin flooring was damaged by the tires pulling on if from having it in gear or the parking brake on this means your car was moving around. Hence not tied down properly.

Correctly secured that car shouldn't ever budge a fraction of an inch.

Now if you went to pull out and the rubber coin flooring stuck to the tires that would be a culprit of traction compound or hot tires sticking to the rubber coin floor. I always recomend the drag racers to carpet the four contact points under the tires to prevent this. Due to vht at the track. I have seen this in a customers trailer. Wrecked the whole damn floor when he pulled out it came with and had to cut it off his tires.
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:14 PM   #38
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Well that's how we've always trailered cars, haven't had an issue yet. Top fuel teams but their rigs from the place I buy my trailers, and that's how I was taught. It's easier on the car, driveline, and trailer.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:12 PM   #39
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For those buying trailers you can typicaly spec a specific deck height and dove tail length.

On the open car haulers you would want something with a 4' dovetail and 5-6' ramps. Then adjust deck height with the start angle of the torsion axle. Typical start angle with a torsion axle option would 10 degrees up. I like to start them at zero or 10 degrees down for the low profile cars like ours which would bring the deck up higher than normal in comparison to the top of the fender. No removable fenders required this way. Sure you end up with the car higher in the air when traveling but were only talki g 4 inches roughly.

Same goes for the enclosed trailers. Most enclosed trailers come standard with a 4" drop axle. Many cars even with an escape door can't clear the inner fender to open the door. When running spring axles spec a straight tube no drop. This lowers the fender 4" combine this with an escape door and even the lowest car door typicaly opens over the fender and out the door. This can again also be done with changing the start angle of a torsion axle.

Enclosed trailers typical have other higher cost options like the drive over ramps shown above by thr zl1 #1. Factory option like shown gets pricy but they can also be home built and perform very well.

If you trailer dealer or manufacture isn't interested in playing with these options keep shopping. Lol
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:56 AM   #40
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This may be thread jacking, but felt it blended with the discussion. I trailered my car for the first time out of necessity this weekend...damn water pump pulley. Must admit it was nerve racking every bumb I hit at 90 miles an hour (kidding about speed, but it was nerve racking).

Anyway I tied down crossed from the rear Lower control arms, then in the front I was looking for somewhere farther back to cross and still hold from rolling back. I used the hole in frame just beyond front tired...looks like a jack point for a lift...doesn't feel like the thickest part on the frame, but it seemed to hold.

Are these good places? Or are ther better? I tried to include some close ups, but damn phone names them all the same.
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