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Old 06-08-2013, 03:17 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John View Post
Any ideas how much drop from stock L99 exhaust setup to aftermarket? I already have longtubes and cats, so talking about that big resonator to the tips.

Sounds like the jerry cans are 30 lbs each, and one of the mufflers I like is only 15 lbs. That big resonator contraption looks heavy though.
I would like to know this as well. What does the factory L99 full exhaust from manifolds to tips weigh vs LT headers to full aftermarket cat back.
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:04 PM   #44
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Im currently trying to figure out ways to reduce weight in the front of the car only. Its getting tougher than i thought without spending a bunch of money.
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Old 07-03-2013, 05:27 AM   #45
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ON THE WEIGHT LOST PROGRAM. LOL
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:55 AM   #46
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Did a 10.87 in March temp were in the low 70 after that some suspension work gear change 3.27 to 3.45. I know the high temp is killing me now high 80 and 90. Have removed front sway bar and have cadillac spares with M/H tires sway bar 17lb front runner 35lb each that's total of 71lb gone off front. Maybe i can break my time of 10.87 with the high temp????
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Best @ 586/525 =10.41 @ 133
AS OF 12/13/14>633 RWHP =10.22@135
AS OF 1/31/15 @ 633 RWHP=10.16@135
AS OF 1/29/16 @ 633 RWHP=10.10@136
TOPED 700 PASSES AFTER F.I. AND STILL ON THE ORIGIANAL STOCK AXLE & DIFF
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:35 PM   #47
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Aluminum driveshaft. Drilled wheel studs. Aluminum lug nuts... I raced asphalt oval track, always looking for weight advantages as less rotating weight.
Are u running an elect fan?
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:04 PM   #48
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Why would you drill the wheel studs? Wouldn't that harm the integrity of the stud

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Old 07-05-2013, 11:15 PM   #49
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Older. its down to 3385 now, nothing like progress.
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:27 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by se7en View Post
Im currently trying to figure out ways to reduce weight in the front of the car only. Its getting tougher than i thought without spending a bunch of money.
Same here, finding it a little hard to remove weight from the front, I know when I finally get my headers installed I will lose 12lbs but other than that not sure how else to get ride of some weight from the front.

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Older. its down to 3385 now, nothing like progress.
That is very very impressive congratz!
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Old 07-06-2013, 05:28 PM   #51
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Quote:
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Older. its down to 3385 now, nothing like progress.
Where did you loss the most weight?
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Best @ 586/525 =10.41 @ 133
AS OF 12/13/14>633 RWHP =10.22@135
AS OF 1/31/15 @ 633 RWHP=10.16@135
AS OF 1/29/16 @ 633 RWHP=10.10@136
TOPED 700 PASSES AFTER F.I. AND STILL ON THE ORIGIANAL STOCK AXLE & DIFF
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:37 PM   #52
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Why would you drill the wheel studs? Wouldn't that harm the integrity of the stud

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Not at all... You can buy them from any race shop. Smilely's, Day Motorsports etc etc. Used them on my asphalt oval track truck/cars...
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:58 PM   #53
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How hard it is to remove crash support front and rear?

Id say that seats/wheels/exhaust are the biggest easiest way to lose some weight..Congrats on your car Diet, youre a serious racer!!
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:34 PM   #54
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3740 me, 3385 you... nice job. That's 355 lbs!
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:52 PM   #55
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How hard it is to remove crash support front and rear?

Id say that seats/wheels/exhaust are the biggest easiest way to lose some weight..Congrats on your car Diet, youre a serious racer!!

Takes 5 minutes to R&R them after you pull the bumpers off, which is about a 15 minute job once you know what you're doing. Est. 45 mins to an hour for your first time, maybe? Removing the rear bar isn't that big a deal, since there is a substantial amount of steel unibody there, but the front bar I certianly wouldn't recommend removing. If you got in a collision, it would be very dangerous. There are some light tubular options on the market, or you could just sawzall the bar in half lengthwise like I did originally to save on weight.
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:21 PM   #56
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Quote:
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Takes 5 minutes to R&R them after you pull the bumpers off, which is about a 15 minute job once you know what you're doing. Est. 45 mins to an hour for your first time, maybe? Removing the rear bar isn't that big a deal, since there is a substantial amount of steel unibody there, but the front bar I certianly wouldn't recommend removing. If you got in a collision, it would be very dangerous. There are some light tubular options on the market, or you could just sawzall the bar in half lengthwise like I did originally to save on weight.
Where can you find tubular crashbars?
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