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Old 07-13-2013, 12:41 PM   #35
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When you have a fully finished trailer with flooring you'll know what I mean, if you leave it in gear or with the brake on it takes the floor up. The straps keep the car from going anywhere. Not to mention the stress on the drivetrain from knocking on the tranny.
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Old 07-13-2013, 04:57 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS View Post
I can only speak for my open trailer, but even with the 5200 lbs axles and bigger wheel/tires, and lowered car, my doors open over the top of the fenders. I ordered it with removable fenders as SSS mentioned, but have never taken them off....
Thanks. Here's what I ended up with. I measured and the doors will clear the fenders with my street tires. I hope it is the same with slicks and skinnies (I'm waiting on my bogarts before I'll know for sure). If it drops it I'll probably put a 2x10 under the tires. I like the trunk escape someone suggested, but my seat won't go down since my roll bar was installed.

I'm planning to trailer w parking brake engaged. I can understand not outing in gear.
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:38 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2SS45th View Post
When you have a fully finished trailer with flooring you'll know what I mean, if you leave it in gear or with the brake on it takes the floor up. The straps keep the car from going anywhere. Not to mention the stress on the drivetrain from knocking on the tranny.
If your rubber coin flooring was damaged by the tires pulling on if from having it in gear or the parking brake on this means your car was moving around. Hence not tied down properly.

Correctly secured that car shouldn't ever budge a fraction of an inch.

Now if you went to pull out and the rubber coin flooring stuck to the tires that would be a culprit of traction compound or hot tires sticking to the rubber coin floor. I always recomend the drag racers to carpet the four contact points under the tires to prevent this. Due to vht at the track. I have seen this in a customers trailer. Wrecked the whole damn floor when he pulled out it came with and had to cut it off his tires.
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:14 PM   #38
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Well that's how we've always trailered cars, haven't had an issue yet. Top fuel teams but their rigs from the place I buy my trailers, and that's how I was taught. It's easier on the car, driveline, and trailer.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:12 PM   #39
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For those buying trailers you can typicaly spec a specific deck height and dove tail length.

On the open car haulers you would want something with a 4' dovetail and 5-6' ramps. Then adjust deck height with the start angle of the torsion axle. Typical start angle with a torsion axle option would 10 degrees up. I like to start them at zero or 10 degrees down for the low profile cars like ours which would bring the deck up higher than normal in comparison to the top of the fender. No removable fenders required this way. Sure you end up with the car higher in the air when traveling but were only talki g 4 inches roughly.

Same goes for the enclosed trailers. Most enclosed trailers come standard with a 4" drop axle. Many cars even with an escape door can't clear the inner fender to open the door. When running spring axles spec a straight tube no drop. This lowers the fender 4" combine this with an escape door and even the lowest car door typicaly opens over the fender and out the door. This can again also be done with changing the start angle of a torsion axle.

Enclosed trailers typical have other higher cost options like the drive over ramps shown above by thr zl1 #1. Factory option like shown gets pricy but they can also be home built and perform very well.

If you trailer dealer or manufacture isn't interested in playing with these options keep shopping. Lol
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:56 AM   #40
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This may be thread jacking, but felt it blended with the discussion. I trailered my car for the first time out of necessity this weekend...damn water pump pulley. Must admit it was nerve racking every bumb I hit at 90 miles an hour (kidding about speed, but it was nerve racking).

Anyway I tied down crossed from the rear Lower control arms, then in the front I was looking for somewhere farther back to cross and still hold from rolling back. I used the hole in frame just beyond front tired...looks like a jack point for a lift...doesn't feel like the thickest part on the frame, but it seemed to hold.

Are these good places? Or are ther better? I tried to include some close ups, but damn phone names them all the same.
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