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Old 07-30-2013, 08:41 AM   #26
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Quote:
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The FE4 straps are actually taller than FE3, I had both.
Correct, I had it backwards. In my case I told Pete I had FE3 (which I thought I had) but in reality I had replaced my original straps and they ended up being FE4. Because of that my sway bar ended up moving inside the staps fairly easy. After working with Pete we determined there was an 1/8" difference and that I had the FE4 straps. Pete took care of me and now I'm all fixed up now.

Like I was saying though, I never heard any noise and I probably had the wrong bushings for 2 - 3 months.

I'm not saying that's not the issue and Ace should double check just to rule it out but I'm just thinking that's not the cause of a metal clunking sound.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:08 AM   #27
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Fe3 straps with the "tall" bush. They fit like OEM. I'll try to grab a video but it will be hard by myself.
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:17 PM   #28
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Forgive the sub in the frame. I was working on a wiring issue today that has nothing to do with the sound of the suspension.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:55 PM   #29
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There is something definitely loose. I would check all of your bolts again, INCLUDING the 4 upper bolts that hold the coilover to the body..

Also, check and see if your adjuster for the coilover is hitting against the car. My right adjuster flops around and actually hits on something occasionally.

One other thing to check, if you haven't relocated your E-brake cable, it might be hitting on your rim now that you lowered the car. Mine hit on both wheels when I installed the 1LE/ZL1 wheels.

The more I think about it, the more I think it is going to be your emergency brake lline hitting against the wheels and the wheel weights, or the adjuster, but man that sound sure sounds like metal to metal clunking like something is loose.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:58 PM   #30
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Do you have a tire stem style TMPS?

How much does your stereo weigh?
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:04 AM   #31
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Do you have a tire stem style TMPS?

How much does your stereo weigh?
Oem style tpms. The sub, amp, and box are less than 50lbs. I'm truly stumped. I had my torque sheet out and did every bolt/nut to spec with Loctite. I'm going to tear out the rear end and reinstall from scratch when I get back from work Monday. Going to loose some more hair over this one.
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:21 AM   #32
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1st, put your floor jack under the diff and raise until the wheels are off the ground. Check the rear coils. Are they tight or have they become loose? If the coil or coils are loose when lifted, the OEM rubber strut mount bush has pushed through the upper strut plate. This will make a lot of clatter. Generally it occurs when a top or bottom washer to the upper mount plate has gone awol. The fix is to press it back it and reinstall with the top and bottom washer.

I hate it when parts decide they would rather be on the floor or bench or rattling around in the trunk.

2nd, Chevrolet made a change to the rear strut upper areas creating a dome like space. They did this because the washers and top strut not would occasionally make noise under contact. We have seen this on a few cars. The fix is to take an air hammer with a nylon bit and create a dome by banging away. This occasionally happens to the OE configuration and occasionally with a Pedders install. You my need a bump in thr trunk.

Finally did you have a friend helping you with a dark sense of humor? Check for steel marbles. Before you say that would never happen, I should admit... the weather in Indy looks great for this weekend.
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:13 AM   #33
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1st, put your floor jack under the diff and raise until the wheels are off the ground. Check the rear coils. Are they tight or have they become loose? If the coil or coils are loose when lifted, the OEM rubber strut mount bush has pushed through the upper strut plate. This will make a lot of clatter. Generally it occurs when a top or bottom washer to the upper mount plate has gone awol. The fix is to press it back it and reinstall with the top and bottom washer.

I hate it when parts decide they would rather be on the floor or bench or rattling around in the trunk.

2nd, Chevrolet made a change to the rear strut upper areas creating a dome like space. They did this because the washers and top strut not would occasionally make noise under contact. We have seen this on a few cars. The fix is to take an air hammer with a nylon bit and create a dome by banging away. This occasionally happens to the OE configuration and occasionally with a Pedders install. You my need a bump in thr trunk.

Finally did you have a friend helping you with a dark sense of humor? Check for steel marbles. Before you say that would never happen, I should admit... the weather in Indy looks great for this weekend.
It feels like the install demon threw some metal bearings everywhere. Haha. I'll check out the struts today. Are there any pictures of what the domed and in domed strut space look like? I have a late 2010. #116xxx. Now I'm really wishing I could make it up to the fest.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:29 AM   #34
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Are there any pictures of what the domed and in domed strut space look like? I have a late 2010. #116xxx. Now I'm really wishing I could make it up to the fest.
I've seen them on a 2013 Camaro. They might have started it in 2012. If you don't know of anyone with a '12 or '13 then post a request on the forum for someone to go out and take a pic of their trunk with the carpet pulled back. Compare that to your trunk and you'll see the domes.

Hang it there....you'll get it sorted out. I just went through something kind of similar but it was with the front steering on my car. After a couple months, 2 trips to the alignment shop, and a few phone calls with Pete we finally got it all worked out. Mine issue ended up being the wrong bushings for the rear sway bar because I had changed straps and also (the biggest issue) my steering rack had come loose. That made for some fun cornering. It bugged me daily and I had started to think about my option of pulling my parts off and trading it in for a 1LE.
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:01 PM   #35
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Alright guys, here is an update. I completely removed the rear struts. The driver side one had a slight rattle in it. I'm assuming it was the washer not completely seated against the mount. The outside washer was completely tight so that was a little weird. I reinstalled the newly stacked strut and I believe most if not all the noise is gone from the rear. The only issue now is I found out that one of my bolts for the drop link is completely stripped. How can I get a new nut and bolt for one drop link? there is some pretty good noise in a slow hard turn back there and I'm very certain it's because one side is barely tight since it's stripped. I think the back masked a little bit of front noise too. I need to see about tightening up the front sway bar end links now. It's not near as bad as it was before and could be attributed to not having the bushings timed yet. Thanks for every ones patience and help.
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:52 PM   #36
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Good to hear you found the problem.

How did it strip?
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:04 PM   #37
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Good to hear you found the problem.

How did it strip?
It's really trashed. The other side looks fine. I'm not sure what the heck happened.
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:07 PM   #38
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I would have to see what you mean by completely striped. Is it rounded off? are the threads all boogered up? What is making you say it's stripped?

I would say you need to get with Pete and possibly get another drop link. If it's stripped as in is the threads are all messed up then your going to have to get a new bolt or re-tap that one. Probably easier just to get a new one.

BTW: don't for get to use some blue locktite when putting your bolts on. I had a nut on my drop link back off. The drop link then came out of the bottom of the LCA and jammed up inside the LCA pretty good. Threw off my alignment as well.
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:20 PM   #39
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I would have to see what you mean by completely striped. Is it rounded off? are the threads all boogered up? What is making you say it's stripped?

I would say you need to get with Pete and possibly get another drop link. If it's stripped as in is the threads are all messed up then your going to have to get a new bolt or re-tap that one. Probably easier just to get a new one.

BTW: don't for get to use some blue locktite when putting your bolts on. I had a nut on my drop link back off. The drop link then came out of the bottom of the LCA and jammed up inside the LCA pretty good. Threw off my alignment as well.
Loctite is on everything. Bolt is on the car but just the first 1/4" is salvageable. The rest is essentially smoothed out.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:04 PM   #40
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Take the damaged bolt off and walk into the nearest Fastenal store. They should have a match on the shelf or you could just email AR@peddersusa.com and ask for a replacement bolt and nut. We'll be happy to ship one to you.
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Old 08-01-2013, 01:06 PM   #41
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Take the damaged bolt off and walk into the nearest Fastenal store. They should have a match on the shelf or you could just email AR@peddersusa.com and ask for a replacement bolt and nut. We'll be happy to ship one to you.
I will email since I'm out of town for awhile now. Thanks
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:35 PM   #42
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Mine did that. I had to tighten the rear end links making sure I used a hex wrench and a socket ensuring it was tightened properly.

Nothing else was loose in my situation.
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Old 08-04-2013, 09:52 PM   #43
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I will email since I'm out of town for awhile now. Thanks
Cool.
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:37 PM   #44
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Does this gap look normal on the front mounts? I'm trying to diagnose a slight noise in the front now that the back has quieted down. Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375828617.958330.jpg
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Size:  147.8 KBName:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375828631.371200.jpg
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:42 PM   #45
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Yep.

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Old 08-06-2013, 05:42 PM   #46
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What is the noise?
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:46 PM   #47
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What is the noise?
A much more quiet version of what I had in the rear. I can almost feel it in the seat. I'm going to check my end link bolts again once I get my replacement rear drop link bolt in the mail. I put inserts in the front radius rod too.
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:52 PM   #48
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You know the drill. Lay a wrench on every nut and bolt including the tie rod ends and ball joints.
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Old 08-06-2013, 07:05 PM   #49
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A much more quiet version of what I had in the rear. I can almost feel it in the seat. I'm going to check my end link bolts again once I get my replacement rear drop link bolt in the mail. I put inserts in the front radius rod too.
You would be surprised how noisy a end link can be if it is not completely tight. I know
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:15 AM   #50
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You would be surprised how noisy a end link can be if it is not completely tight. I know
Me too.

lol
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