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Old 02-26-2013, 08:25 AM   #15
Anthony @ LG Motorsports



 
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Originally Posted by TBone View Post
How is it that these don't fade on the track if their temp ratings are only 50-1000 according to your website?

Hell the Carbotech XP-8 temp range is 200°F-1350°F+ and I use these on the rear and XP-12 on the front with a temp range of 250°F to 2000°F+. Not to mention these are much more expensive than the CarboTech's. Even if you spend the extra money to have them pre-bedded.

So how are these better??

T.

They run to a much higher temp than the CarboTech pads do, and depending on what compound you run with what that will be. It sounds like you are quoting the CSR compound which is more of a street/AutoX pad. Not the XR1/2/3 pads that we race with that will hold well over 1800 degree's.

There is more to pads than just temperature ranges. Sure that helps but how the pad handles the heat, it's coefficient of friction, release, wear characteristics all play important roles in how the car is going to bit on initial pedal input, torque applied to the rotor, and finally how the pad releases when you come off the pedal.

Some pads may have a very low bite, but a high torque ramp, some stick when you pull your foot off the pedal....some my bite really hard then fade away.

Then you get into how the pad wears itself combined with the rotor wear.

Cobalts require no bedding at all, just the first bed to the rotor, other than that you can hot swap pads on the same rotor and be good for green flag racing from the get go.


EVERY, and I mean EVERY SINGLE customer I have let try a set of Cobalts has never looked back to anything, be it Hawk, CarboTech, PFC...they are that good of a pad not only in performance but wear as well.

Take a look at just some of the teams that have ran Cobalts and continue to win with them. Everything from the GS class in GrandAm to the Daytona Prototypes and ALMS GT cars. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...6647351&type=3
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:34 AM   #16
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Thank you.

The temps regarding the Cobalts are straight off of your website, and in Hindsight yes CSR, but they were the only temps available since Cobalt's website does not list them.

I am aware that there is more to a pad than temps and it was only a starting point to get more information regarding these pads.

Do you have any non-teams that run these that could possibly chime in? Teams have a tendency to be sponsored so they have more at stake.

Do you carry the full line? Your website only lists the CSR, XR1 and XR2. Based on Cobalt's website and the Carbo's I have run in the past I would run XR2 F and XR3 R.

Would the pads last longer if I went up to the XR1 F, XR2 R? Or would these just be overkill and eat up my DBA 4000's?

As someone who has experienced pad failure on a track at high speeds I am VERY leery of switching from something I KNOW works. I will never use Hawks on a track again. Overheated pads on these heavy cars is a real possibility on the faster tracks that I run, Road America for example.

As far as cold bite that is great for the street but I am patient enough to wait half a lap for my pads to warm up to operating temps to get the full measure of the pads.

As far as the pricing, if it is different than your website maybe you could pm me.

T.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:24 PM   #17
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Thank you.

The temps regarding the Cobalts are straight off of your website, and in Hindsight yes CSR, but they were the only temps available since Cobalt's website does not list them.

I am aware that there is more to a pad than temps and it was only a starting point to get more information regarding these pads.

Do you have any non-teams that run these that could possibly chime in? Teams have a tendency to be sponsored so they have more at stake.

Do you carry the full line? Your website only lists the CSR, XR1 and XR2. Based on Cobalt's website and the Carbo's I have run in the past I would run XR2 F and XR3 R.

Would the pads last longer if I went up to the XR1 F, XR2 R? Or would these just be overkill and eat up my DBA 4000's?

As someone who has experienced pad failure on a track at high speeds I am VERY leery of switching from something I KNOW works. I will never use Hawks on a track again. Overheated pads on these heavy cars is a real possibility on the faster tracks that I run, Road America for example.

As far as cold bite that is great for the street but I am patient enough to wait half a lap for my pads to warm up to operating temps to get the full measure of the pads.

As far as the pricing, if it is different than your website maybe you could pm me.

T.

You are right, teams do tend to stick with their sponsors and Andie did give us a free set here or there, but he does not sponsor anyone full time. All of us have to pay for the pads. While, it is nice to hear from the local club racer on how something works, putting these things into turn one at Daytona during the 24hrs at close to 200 mph for hours on end is something far past what most would ever ask for their pads to do, and Cobalt has done it time and time again.

There are a few things out there that actually work as good as, if not better than what they say they do. This is one of those products.


Pad life is going to depend on swept area, temperature, car weight, and use of course. You wouldn't expect the pads to last as long at Long Beach as what you would say Road Atlanta just because of how much you are on the pedal vs straight away speeds.

From testing with the SS and the ZL1 we have found the XR1 front and XR3 rears seem to work the best.
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:28 PM   #18
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--RELEASE--

LG Motorsports is proud to bring you Cobalt Racing Technology pads for your Camaro ZL1

If you are going to be tracking your new Camaro ZL1 you will need a better pad on the car than the OEM equipment. For those tracks hard on brakes as well as experienced drivers are going to find the factory brake pads are just not up to the task of repeated hard use of the brake pedal.

We at LG Motorsports have chosen the best for our own race cars with Cobalt Friction Technologies (Cobalt Racing Brakes) brake pads. We have been using Cobalt pads on our own race cars since 2006 and have not used anything else on them since! Easy on rotors, great initial bite, and awesome wear rates make them the best pads on the market today.

We have fitments for the SS, ZL1, OEM Corvette brakes as well as almost any other aftermarket BBK kit on the market today. Talk to your sales rep for details on what compounds would be right for your setup.
Are there any ceramic pads or low brake dust pads that will work on the Zl1 yet maintain the performance level?
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:00 PM   #19
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Are there any ceramic pads or low brake dust pads that will work on the Zl1 yet maintain the performance level?
Cobalt doesn't make any low dust, or ceramic pads.

I do not know of any iron rotor setup that would be quiet, no dust, and stop like a race pad.

The Carbon/Ceramic setup on the ZR1's is the closest thing I know of that will do that.
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Old 08-17-2013, 10:20 PM   #20
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I use the Cobalt Friction XR1 & XR3 in my car and can vouch for how awesome they are. Can you pm me with a price please I need a new set of XR1's
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:41 PM   #21
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I use the Cobalt Friction XR1 & XR3 in my car and can vouch for how awesome they are. Can you pm me with a price please I need a new set of XR1's
PM sent!

It's hard to explain over the net just how big of a difference a great set of pads can make to a braking system on the cars. We have been trusting no one but Cobalt now for years!
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:12 AM   #22
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Like Tbone I too have experienced brake failure while roaring into a corner. I agree that it is hard to let go of something that is working well for me. I'm using the Porterfield R4 pad now and have never experienced anything that stops better. The downside is one set of pads will eat about 2 sets of rotors. I have always been willing to buy new rotors just to have the dependable braking. Do you know how Cobalts compare to the Porterfields for torque and heat range?
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:27 AM   #23
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I am a novice at running a road course. I've done 1 HPDE day at Gingerman and a couple Autocross sessions. My question is would these be overkill for a novice with stock rotors? Will they eat the stock rotors quickly? What would be the next step for me without spending a lot of money? I was told to use the stock SS rotors and pads for now but my next time out will be in the intermediate group so I want to have some degree of confidence in my braking!
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:33 AM   #24
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I am a novice at running a road course. I've done 1 HPDE day at Gingerman and a couple Autocross sessions. My question is would these be overkill for a novice with stock rotors? Will they eat the stock rotors quickly? What would be the next step for me without spending a lot of money? I was told to use the stock SS rotors and pads for now but my next time out will be in the intermediate group so I want to have some degree of confidence in my braking!

I wouldn't run the pads as a daily driver just due to the dust, noise, and cost.

Now with that being said....

Having the best track pads, fluids, lines...is all a matter of safety. You can more than work your way into those pads on track and they will never fade on you and will stop the car far before you reach that late of a braking point on track.

Some say it is easier to learn on crappy tires and crappy brakes, because if you can drive that.....well you can drive pretty much anything, but it isn't quite as safe to do so. I would much rather see someone go out on a street tire with a good set of brakes, rather than slicks with stock brakes on it.



First things first though...stainless lines and good quality brake fluid and make sure the fluid stays fresh!
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:03 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Anthony @ LG Motorsports View Post
I wouldn't run the pads as a daily driver just due to the dust, noise, and cost.

Now with that being said....

Having the best track pads, fluids, lines...is all a matter of safety. You can more than work your way into those pads on track and they will never fade on you and will stop the car far before you reach that late of a braking point on track.

Some say it is easier to learn on crappy tires and crappy brakes, because if you can drive that.....well you can drive pretty much anything, but it isn't quite as safe to do so. I would much rather see someone go out on a street tire with a good set of brakes, rather than slicks with stock brakes on it.



First things first though...stainless lines and good quality brake fluid and make sure the fluid stays fresh!
I have RB stainless brake lines and dot 4 fluid already but i will need to flush with fresh fluid before next outing. What dot 4 do you recommend?
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:41 PM   #26
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I have RB stainless brake lines and dot 4 fluid already but i will need to flush with fresh fluid before next outing. What dot 4 do you recommend?
Motul RBF is good, Endless 650, and of course there is Castrol SRF....but not technically a DOT 4 fluid...and it is hard to find and not the cheapest stuff out there.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:24 AM   #27
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Cobalt racing brake pads.

Anthony, would you pm me a price for ZL1 cobalt racing pads xr1 front/xr3 rear shipped to 54311.

RaySouth

Last edited by RaySouth; 02-23-2014 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:19 PM   #28
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Ray,

You can also order directly from CB, http://www.cobaltfriction.com/Search...s.asp?Cat=2478 .

I never came back to say these are really good pads. They stop our cars phenomenally well but, like other pads, if you are hard on them they wear quickly. Not a bad thing just a thing. These have helped knock a few seconds off lap times because you can go deeeper into the braking zones. Very nice pads.

Another positive is that Andie Lin has gone above and beyond for me at times when I have needed pads quickly, usually because of my forgetfulness. He is their Director of motorsports R&D and even has a post or two on here. Great guy and will do what he can for you. Not to take away anything from the guys at LG,.

T.
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"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same.
Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different.
I can't wait for my next
Track fix.
DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!!
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