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Old 08-12-2013, 12:31 PM   #1
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ride height and axles (gurus and experienced advice needed)

so this weekend i broke the passenger rear axle in 2 places twice, one each day.

it broke right on the inside (like the axle side) of the joints, clean shear.

my question is am i to low? is this adding extra stress? i am at 25 and 3/4 inches from wheel lip to fender.

first one i thought bad luck plus added traction plus uneven pavement plus turning left etc. second one happened on a straight away so some of my theory got disproved.

fun weekend at ACS in fontana, i was pretty quick...bummer about axles but this is the nature of game. trying to figure out if i am causing this with my ride height.
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:16 PM   #2
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I don't think your ride height is an issue. Stock height from fender to bottom lip of a 20 inch wheel is 680 mm (26.77 in.). You are only lowered about an inch sounds like. Lowering too much causes more of a problem for the CV joints, never heard of it causing the axle shaft to break.

Elaborate on the suspension mods you have. Stick or auto? What kind of tires? What were you doing exactly when it broke?
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
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I don't think your ride height is an issue. Stock height from fender to bottom lip of a 20 inch wheel is 680 mm (26.77 in.). You are only lowered about an inch sounds like. Lowering too much causes more of a problem for the CV joints, never heard of it causing the axle shaft to break.

Elaborate on the suspension mods you have. Stick or auto? What kind of tires? What were you doing exactly when it broke?
auto using tap shift (yes i know, standards are no go for me) coilovers, solid subframe and cradle bushings.nitto nt01 285 20. ~450 n.a hp/tq wheel

first was a sweeping left in uneven pavement i downshifted and snap. second was in back straight i upshifted and snap.



i will take pictures when i get home of where the breaks happened. I thought it was transmission first time so i was a little releaved when my buddy heard it and immediatly said its in the rear.
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:25 PM   #4
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It's easy enough to check, with the car is in the air, remove the rear strut assembly, (4 bolts at top and 1 at the bottom) then you can move the suspension up and down by hand, move it through it's range and check that the axle isn't bottoming out through the normal range of motion that you will experience with the car (typically only 3"-4" is needed total range give or take)

The only issues that i've heard of were on cars that were 'slammed', and your car doesn't seem to be slammed.
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:36 PM   #5
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:37 PM   #6
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same thing on both sides of joint


no my car is by no means slammed...i live where its just not possible without damaging my car.
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:51 PM   #7
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What suspension mods do you have on the car?
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:53 PM   #8
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kw variant 3 coilovers (settings all in middle). subframe bushings. cradle bushings. granetelli brace (rear only).

2010 ss auto. i went to ~20 track days/weekends and this is the first thing that broke aside from brake stuff. broke 2 days in a row. only thing that was new this weekend was front calipers which have no bearing in this convo, nt01 tires, and of course the axle i replaced on saturday night which i broke again on sunday.
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:54 PM   #9
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Check your Rear control arm on that side, make sure it's not bent and twisted in the same rotation that the wheel and axle make allowing it to contact the coilover or something else.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:23 PM   #10
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Pete (Pedders) has posted a caution to not go much below 660mm.
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:44 PM   #11
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I was below that recommendation and I had issues. I have since solved that.

Sounds like a perfect oppurtunity to upgrade to some DSS 1K HP Axles. Get the Road Race versions or I think they may have a stock version they upgrade the grease in to better handle the track. Either way call Frank at DSS or JDP and they can hook you up.

I love mine.

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"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:02 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBone View Post
I was below that recommendation and I had issues. I have since solved that.

Sounds like a perfect oppurtunity to upgrade to some DSS 1K HP Axles. Get the Road Race versions or I think they may have a stock version they upgrade the grease in to better handle the track. Either way call Frank at DSS or JDP and they can hook you up.

I love mine.

T.
Did you raise your car or just got different axles and stayed at the same ride height?
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:39 AM   #13
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Raised the car just a little to the 660ish recommended ride height.

T.
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"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same.
Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different.
I can't wait for my next
Track fix.
DA HAWKS used to OWN DA CUP!!!!!
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:55 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBone View Post
Raised the car just a little to the 660ish recommended ride height.

T.
Ahh cool. I went with that recommendation as well. That's also what I suggested to Blake since he broke both days.


Blake get a trailer and AAA
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:28 AM   #15
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I adjusted my ride height to perfectly parallel the axles with driver in the car. Best power transfer/least stress.
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:47 PM   #16
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You don't want to go more than 1" lower than stock and I'd turn up the damping to help prevent too much compression travel. I battled this issue for some time and I ended up with upgraded factory axles and a 1" drop.

Please feel free to call, email or PM me anytime with questions.

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Jordan Priestley
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