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Old 08-06-2013, 05:12 PM   #197
JusticePete
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lakersftbl69 View Post
anything? anyone?
Use the aggressive street and enjoy your 5th Gen.

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Old 08-11-2013, 01:56 AM   #198
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Pete,

Do I need the Pedders Alignment bolt kit to achieve the aggressive street alignment specifications?

My current alignment specs are:

Front Caster 6.1/5.5
Front Camber -0.9/-1.1
Front Toe 0.09/0.08
Rear Camber -0.4/-0.05
Rear toe 0.09/0.08

I already have Pedders street 1 bushings, 1le sway bars and chromoly trailing arm with poly bushings. Would I benefit much from camber plates to get to -2.5 front camber at autocrosses or the road course with Michelin PSS 275/35 20 street tires on all four corners? Or would you recommend coil overs or perhaps a rear sway bar as my next suspension upgrade? The car has slight under steer right now when pushed hard into the corner and slight over steer coming out of the corner hard on the throttle.

Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:04 PM   #199
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Caster if not adjustable from the factory so to increase caster the answer is yes. In an OE height car the rear camver bolts should bring you very close to the desired rear camber spec. Once lowered, you'll need the Pedders rear camber bolts.

Our 32mm rear bar with the 1LE 27 front is pretty amazing and a bargain given the increase in performance.

After that, coilovers with camber plates.

Does this help?
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:52 PM   #200
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Thanks, that's the information I needed. Do you think I should increase front camber to -1.25 before going back out to the track again or should I put the rear bar on and see how it performs? I had -1.2/-1.4 front camber previously and loved the way it turned into corners. Seems like the 32mm bar with -1.25 camber might be the sweet spot for now.

How important is caster? I know it affects straight line driving but I don't really understand its role in autocross or road course handling. Does it keep the car from wandering on the straights?
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Old 08-11-2013, 05:51 PM   #201
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Wanting to see if I can get some alignment specs for my setup.

Wife DD's the car and I Drag Race it on the weekends (No fast corners for this car). Started having wheel hope so I changed out some of the Rear parts.

Cars around 600rwhp A6

Changes:
BMR Lower control arms (They are shorter then the factory arms)
BMR Adjustable toe rods
BMR Adjustable trailing arms/bushings
Eibach Pro-Kit #38144.140 springs

DD on 22's
Race on Weld 5x17/10x17

Don't mind a little extra wear on the rear tires.

Thanks for any help with this..

Last edited by Nitroman28; 08-11-2013 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:00 PM   #202
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I have a 1LE that gets driven on the hwy ALOT. I had the dlr check the alignment and reset it at 1500km and then I noticed the inside of both right tires were missing at 15000km! The dlr took the car back, has replaced the right side tires and is redoing the alignment again.

I don't want to lower the car but want to improve the handling of it. My concern right now is before I change anything under it I need to know this alignment works. Is there a better alignment spec for a 1LE than what GM suggests?

Im thinking that because of the softer tires, the "perfect" alignment is more crucial.
Do I stick with what the dlr does or should I suggest a little refinement and if so what should it be.

After we get it right, then I want to make it stick to the road better. I see the bigger rear sway is suggested but most references I read are about lowering the car.
Suggestions?
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:20 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitroman28 View Post
Wanting to see if I can get some alignment specs for my setup.

Wife DD's the car and I Drag Race it on the weekends (No fast corners for this car). Started having wheel hope so I changed out some of the Rear parts.

Cars around 600rwhp A6

Changes:
BMR Lower control arms (They are shorter then the factory arms)
BMR Adjustable toe rods
BMR Adjustable trailing arms/bushings
Eibach Pro-Kit #38144.140 springs

DD on 22's
Race on Weld 5x17/10x17

Don't mind a little extra wear on the rear tires.

Thanks for any help with this..
Get the rear camber to 0, or maybe +0.1 if you can get the camber moved that much with those arms.

Set the rear toe to +.20 to start with, you might need to play with the toe a bit to get it right, but i'd start there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1LeSS View Post
I have a 1LE that gets driven on the hwy ALOT. I had the dlr check the alignment and reset it at 1500km and then I noticed the inside of both right tires were missing at 15000km! The dlr took the car back, has replaced the right side tires and is redoing the alignment again.

I don't want to lower the car but want to improve the handling of it. My concern right now is before I change anything under it I need to know this alignment works. Is there a better alignment spec for a 1LE than what GM suggests?

Im thinking that because of the softer tires, the "perfect" alignment is more crucial.
Do I stick with what the dlr does or should I suggest a little refinement and if so what should it be.

After we get it right, then I want to make it stick to the road better. I see the bigger rear sway is suggested but most references I read are about lowering the car.
Suggestions?
Good Tire Wear and 1LE are not things that will typically go hand in hand. To get the best handling, you will loose tire wear, and vise versa. It's a trade off.

Do you have a printout of the alignment before and after it was last aligned?
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:38 AM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob@WretchedMS View Post
Do you have a printout of the alignment before and after it was last aligned?
See if this works
Attached Images
File Type: pdf alignment.pdf (409.6 KB, 138 views)
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:52 AM   #205
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Well, the first thing i notice is they are using the FE3 specs for the 2010 and 2011's, and not the FE6 specs that your car takes.

i don't have the FE6 specs in front of me right now, but i think you will find the specs are closer to being correct for the FE6 than they are for the FE3.

The front toe is set for being more aggressive, like the FE6 should be, but tire wear will be a side effect,

i really need to find the specs for the FE6 before i can give you more advise,
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:03 AM   #206
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FE6 specs attached
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File Type: pdf fe6.pdf (330.1 KB, 125 views)
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:12 AM   #207
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GREAT JOB!

Just get the toe fixed, the camber and caster are both perfect for the specs.

Front and rear toe are too negative vs the stock specs,
i'm not sure why the place that did the alignment didn't fix the toe on the front or the rear, being that the specs for toe are the same across the board.

with that said, front toe closer to 0 (more negative) will give you better performance, but more tire wear as you have experienced.

all and all, not too bad, just needs to be tweaked a little,
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:56 AM   #208
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not completely sure, i'm guessing because of the larger front tires or electric steering settings
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:29 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob@WretchedMS View Post
Get the rear camber to 0, or maybe +0.1 if you can get the camber moved that much with those arms.

Set the rear toe to +.20 to start with, you might need to play with the toe a bit to get it right, but i'd start there.




Good Tire Wear and 1LE are not things that will typically go hand in hand. To get the best handling, you will loose tire wear, and vise versa. It's a trade off.

Do you have a printout of the alignment before and after it was last aligned?
Are you saying .20 total?

Here's what it's at now.

RR -0.2 LR 0.3

Toe R .10 L .11
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:51 PM   #210
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correct
your toe looks good bu the camber difference side to side needs to be fixed
even camber is critical
both sides need to be the same
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