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Old 09-04-2013, 10:48 AM   #15
Abdi
 
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Great work!

Looks nice, clean and effective. This is on my list to do for the winter and I will follow your lead on this and include the quantum ducts.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:57 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerspeed92 View Post
I really need to do this,as i brake late and hard.Man, at Fontana a couple weeks ago i couldn't even hold my lug nuts they were so hot.I wont be able to afford this till after Christmas,but is there an instruction sheet that you can post so i can see if this is even something i can do by myself?
I have the ducted backing plates from Lambert Auto in my shop waiting to install. I don't think instructions were included, but I have already scoped out the installation.
You will need to remove the Caliper and the rotor and remove the 1/2 backing plate mounted on the 1LE spindle. Two bolts on the lower portion of the spindle hold the plate on.
Per GM, the caliper mounting bolts are a one use item and must be replaced, so you will need 4 new caliper mounting bolts. (About $3.50 apiece at my local Chevy dealer) I believe the torque for these is 30 ft-lb + 90 degrees.
Because the 1LE only has a backing plate covering the lower half of the spindle you will also need one 6mm-1.0 X 20mm bolt for each side to bolt the top of the ducted backing plate to the spindle. (Working from memory here but I'm pretty sure that is the size and the correct torque spec for the caliper) The hole is already there and threaded but on the 1LE from the factory it is not used. Once you have the new ducted backing plate bolted on. Reinstall the rotor and the caliper and figure out how to route the duct hose.
I plan on doing this job later this week and will take some photos. I'm scheduled to go back to Watkins Glen for two days the beginning of October and definitely want all my brake upgrades done before then.
Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:58 PM   #17
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Wow,thanks,very nice write up.It does seem a little involved,to me anyway since this is all new to me.I replaced the rotors on my 2011 1LT/RS RS with cross drilled/slotted ones,so i would be surprised if i couldn't do this.Hope your going to share video of Watkins Glen with us,man that must be a fun track.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinlow View Post
Should this go in the main DIY section of the forum? I would think this mod could work on just about any 5th gen Camaro
No.

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Old 09-04-2013, 02:38 PM   #19
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Glad I stumbled on this. I'm in the middle of getting all my parts together for a CTS-V/ZL1 brake upgrade. What's another couple of hundred dollars?
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerspeed92 View Post
Wow,thanks,very nice write up.It does seem a little involved,to me anyway since this is all new to me.I replaced the rotors on my 2011 1LT/RS RS with cross drilled/slotted ones,so i would be surprised if i couldn't do this.Hope your going to share video of Watkins Glen with us,man that must be a fun track.
Thanks

If you can change the rotors you have done all the disassembly required to do the backing plates except removing the old backing plate and installing the new one. The old 1LE backing plate is two bolts the new plate is three. The third hole is already in the spindle/knuckle or whatever you want to call it. I checked the bolt size and torque when I got home.
Caliper bolt torque is 30 lb ft + 90 degrees
The third bolt needed to mount the ducted backing plate is 6mm-1.0 x 15mm long. The 20 mm long I said in the previous post will also work. You'll need two, one for each side.
Caliper removal is different for the SS than a 1LT. SS has no slider bolts or pad bracket. Remove the two pins that hold the pads, remove the pads then remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper is off.

Watkins Glen was a blast. Went to a two day novice school so an old drag racer could learn how to turn corners at the end of the straight stretch. Been 180 mph in a straight line then pulled the chute and stomped the brakes. This corner thing is a little different. The school says five to six track days to go from Novice to Intermediate. I did it in two. Sorry no video for the first two days out but I'm planning on getting a camera for the Intermediate school October 2nd and 3rd and will post after that.

Track photographer got some good shoots I'm attaching a few.
Attached Images
     
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:10 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by td195f View Post
Thanks

If you can change the rotors you have done all the disassembly required to do the backing plates except removing the old backing plate and installing the new one. The old 1LE backing plate is two bolts the new plate is three. The third hole is already in the spindle/knuckle or whatever you want to call it. I checked the bolt size and torque when I got home.
Caliper bolt torque is 30 lb ft + 90 degrees
The third bolt needed to mount the ducted backing plate is 6mm-1.0 x 15mm long. The 20 mm long I said in the previous post will also work. You'll need two, one for each side.
Caliper removal is different for the SS than a 1LT. SS has no slider bolts or pad bracket. Remove the two pins that hold the pads, remove the pads then remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper is off.

Watkins Glen was a blast. Went to a two day novice school so an old drag racer could learn how to turn corners at the end of the straight stretch. Been 180 mph in a straight line then pulled the chute and stomped the brakes. This corner thing is a little different. The school says five to six track days to go from Novice to Intermediate. I did it in two. Sorry no video for the first two days out but I'm planning on getting a camera for the Intermediate school October 2nd and 3rd and will post after that.

Track photographer got some good shoots I'm attaching a few.
Awesome photos! Your car looks great and I'm sure you kicked ass. Can't wait for my event next week, I'll be there Monday and Tuesday. School one day, and time trail the next.

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Old 09-04-2013, 05:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by td195f View Post
Thanks

If you can change the rotors you have done all the disassembly required to do the backing plates except removing the old backing plate and installing the new one. The old 1LE backing plate is two bolts the new plate is three. The third hole is already in the spindle/knuckle or whatever you want to call it. I checked the bolt size and torque when I got home.
Caliper bolt torque is 30 lb ft + 90 degrees
The third bolt needed to mount the ducted backing plate is 6mm-1.0 x 15mm long. The 20 mm long I said in the previous post will also work. You'll need two, one for each side.
Caliper removal is different for the SS than a 1LT. SS has no slider bolts or pad bracket. Remove the two pins that hold the pads, remove the pads then remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper is off.

Watkins Glen was a blast. Went to a two day novice school so an old drag racer could learn how to turn corners at the end of the straight stretch. Been 180 mph in a straight line then pulled the chute and stomped the brakes. This corner thing is a little different. The school says five to six track days to go from Novice to Intermediate. I did it in two. Sorry no video for the first two days out but I'm planning on getting a camera for the Intermediate school October 2nd and 3rd and will post after that.

Track photographer got some good shoots I'm attaching a few.
Man these 1LE'S just look like they belong on the track,nice pics.I obviously know what lb ft is what it +90 degrees?
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:18 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerspeed92 View Post
Man these 1LE'S just look like they belong on the track,nice pics.I obviously know what lb ft is what it +90 degrees?
It appears that GM is using "Torque to Yield" bolts to hold the calipers. You torque the bolt to 30 lb ft and then tighten the bolt an additional 90 degrees to set the proper clamping force. This will actually cause the bolt to stretch.
The proper way to do this is to use a "torque angle gauge or indicator". They can be bought at most auto parts stores for as little as $10.
When you do this the bolts are not reusable and the GM service manual states that. That's why I said in my first post you will need four new bolts. Any time you remove your calipers you'll have to replace the bolts. I ordered 4 extra the other day so I would have them if I needed to pull the calipers at the track for some reason.
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:41 PM   #24
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I so need to add this to my winter list. Thanks guys
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Old 01-25-2014, 03:06 PM   #25
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Thank you Dropspeed for this awesome write up. Did mine today with the help of my little bro. Gonna be ready for the track in no time! Next project will be changing the lines and fluid out in the next week or two.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...postcount=9884
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Old 01-25-2014, 03:22 PM   #26
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Looks nIce Long did it take? I have all parts but waiTing on brake lines to as well.
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Old 01-25-2014, 03:28 PM   #27
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For us it took us about 2 hours total and we were just taking our time and in no hurry. Very smooth DIY thanks to the write up. The worst part is un bolting the nose. there is one bolt up high in the fender where the top of the nose mounts that was a bit of a PITA but with a couple extensions and elbow was able to get it.
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Old 01-25-2014, 05:58 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinlow View Post
Should this go in the main DIY section of the forum? I would think this mod could work on just about any 5th gen Camaro
Actually, all of us that track our cars could benefit from this so if it were in a separate Road course, AutoX, HPDE area that would be awesome.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...28#post7367628

T.
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