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Old 09-03-2013, 10:32 AM   #1
Dropspeed
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Brake Ducts Installed on my 1LE (DIY)

I had been planning to install some brake ducts on my 1LE since I first got it in May, but after 3 track days on the stock calipers/rotors/pads and Motul 600 and not doing "much" late braking I was pleasantly surprised with the stock set-up.

I decided to add ducts before Grattan this past weekend on pretty much the morning I was scheduled to leave.......so my choice of parts was out of my last minute decision, not out of long term planning I would have preferred a more conical duct entrance so the air wouldn't be turbulent entering but I couldn't find one small enough for the area I wanted to use and these were very cost effective.

Parts used:

  • 1 Tube of 3" x 10" of Neoprene 2 ply brake duct material (you only need about 3' total) about $80.00....you can by yours for about $20
  • 2 random metal brakets with holes that can be bent / formed to hold the tail of the duct in place (I had them in my garage)
  • 2 Long zip ties (also in my garage)
  • 2 " Air Intake Mount made by Spectre p/n 8148 (2 x $5.99) purchased one at Advanced auto parts and the second at O'Reilly Auto parts
  • 8 push clips: I used these because I have tons of them in my garage (nut/bolt, pop rivet and other items will work)
  • 2 Hose clamps (from my garage)
Why I chose the position I did to gather the air:
  • I copied the routing from the ZL1
  • It is a straight shot from front to the area it dumps air
  • It was easy to mount my inlets
  • I had coffee with the High Performance Brake Engineer at GM that worked with the brake system and he told me not to grab the air from the fog light openings (remove lights) as it was warmer and more turbulent out there.
If you look at the picture that has the ZL1 air guide(top) and SS/1LE (bottom) you can see were SS is wider because the ZL1 has the ducts in that area. It appears the Camaro was designed from the get go to have brake ducts as there is room on either side between the frame rail and the washer bottle on the drivers side and between the rail and the radiator overflow on the passenger side to fit 3" ducts (thanks GM!)


General Overview:
  • Remove front fascia and set aside (NO modification needed at all)
  • take your Air inlet and eyeball it/ square it up on the flat section of the lower air guide (still on the car) (see pic)
  • Drill your hole with a hole saw (see pic)
  • Clean up edges of the new hole with a file or razor blade
  • Mark and drill 4 holes to insert your clips or nut/bolt to hold the inlet to the air guide
  • NOW READ CAREFULLY: the 3" brake duct ID is the same size as the 3" air inlet OD....they will not slip together with out a slight mod to the duct. The duct has a metal wire for support in it. You will need to use a pair of wire cutters to "snip" about 3 of the wires at the same point. Do not cut the material, just make 3 snips of the wire in a row to release the tension and allow the duct to slip over the air inlet. (see pic)
  • Attach the hose to the air inlet and then feed the hose through the hole in the air guide (DO NOT install the hose clamp yet...it will not fit through the hole)
  • Secure the Air inlet to the air guide, install hose clamp.
This is where you will need to be a bit creative with the bracket to hold it up on the end closest to the wheel well


  • There is a bolt holding the washer bottle in place....remove it as this is where you will take your random metal bracket and mount it. (use the radiator overflow bolt on the passenger side)
  • Adjust your bracket until it holds the duct in place.
  • NOT PICTURED: I coated my random metal brackets with Black plastic dip just to make it look a little more stealth
  • Install a zip tie around the duct and secure it to the random metal bracket.
  • Repeat on the other side
  • Reinstall the front fascia
  • Smile and pat yourself on the back for a job well done!
I ended my my brake ducts at the front edge of the wheel wheel just like the ZL1 does. A true "racecar" brake duct will end at the backside of the hub/inside of the rotor but I didn't see any easy route and was frankly running out of time as I had to load and get to the track....



I did test them in my personal wind tunnel = A leaf blower on the front of the car and I was able to confirm my race car scientific theory: there is a lot of air coming out the duct and dumping into the back of the hub area....


Pictures Speak 1000 works....See below


FYI: I have enough extra material to supply 1/2 person with a DIY kit for a small fee. DO NOT ask me here please...PM me.



-Matt
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:32 AM   #2
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:12 AM   #3
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That's a great job.
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:26 AM   #4
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:35 AM   #5
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I will be using this kit since it should have a bit smoother airflow at the entry point
http://www.jegs.com/i/Kenny+Brown+Pe...1300S/10002/-1
Or get 2 of these separately but when I added up the hose and clamps it was about the same price.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Allstar+Perfor...42140/10002/-1
Will be using the quantum kit for the hub brackets.
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
I will be using this kit since it should have a bit smoother airflow at the entry point
http://www.jegs.com/i/Kenny+Brown+Pe...1300S/10002/-1
Or get 2 of these separately but when I added up the hose and clamps it was about the same price.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Allstar+Perfor...42140/10002/-1
Will be using the quantum kit for the hub brackets.
Those ducts will work much better and would be preferred...but being that they are 5.5" tall they will not fit in the same location without some cutting/fab to get them in there as there is only about 4 to 4.5" of space.

This one that is 6" wide and 3.5" would fit better in there: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3623 and I will be changing over to this one during the winter utilizing the same location

FYI: You can piece together a kit from Pegasus for much cheaper than the kit from Jegs

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ad...ryID=BRAKEDUCT

I did not get mine stuff from here, but I have used them in the past..

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Old 09-03-2013, 12:58 PM   #7
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I found it a good bit cheaper, just the quickest link to find. I will cut as much of the side area away to still be able to rivet it together, 4.5" should be enough to work. I'll see if I can get the ducts that come with the kit to fit otherwise I did waste some money. Heck I'll use the extra ducts and hose to put some on the wifes corolla so she thinks I'm even crazier.
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:21 PM   #8
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Nice work! We have been running the quantum brake duct kit on the JDP Camaro. I like the quantum kit because it actually channels air directly into the cooling vanes of the rotor.



Feel free to call, PM or email me with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sales@JDP View Post
Nice work! We have been running the quantum brake duct kit on the JDP Camaro. I like the quantum kit because it actually channels air directly into the cooling vanes of the rotor.



Feel free to call, PM or email me with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Very cool, I was not aware of Quantum......Looks like I will be making two changes over the winter, different Inlets and the Quantum kit!

Thanks,
Matt
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:40 PM   #10
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http://www.lapponline.com/index.php?...roducts_id=234
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sales@JDP View Post
Nice work! We have been running the quantum brake duct kit on the JDP Camaro. I like the quantum kit because it actually channels air directly into the cooling vanes of the rotor.
Three questions:
  1. Does it work with both the SS and the ZL1 calipers? (If I upgrade later)
  2. Does the ZL1/1LE backing plate need to be cut off or does it unbolt (I can really just look later)
  3. Can I purchase the kit from you without the ducting?
Thanks,
Matt
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sales@JDP View Post
Nice work! We have been running the quantum brake duct kit on the JDP Camaro. I like the quantum kit because it actually channels air directly into the cooling vanes of the rotor.



Feel free to call, PM or email me with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007
I really need to do this,as i brake late and hard.Man, at Fontana a couple weeks ago i couldn't even hold my lug nuts they were so hot.I wont be able to afford this till after Christmas,but is there an instruction sheet that you can post so i can see if this is even something i can do by myself?
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:43 PM   #13
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Great post and photos, I have a much better idea of how this all works now. I've put together the following parts which I have yet to order. I am not sure which inlet duct will fit best so I have two sizes listed. This list comes to about $125 for parts:

3630-3.00-6 FOOT Neoprene 2-ply Air Duct Hose, Black, 3.0" x 6 Foot
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3630 $38.49ea x1
3623-Color Air Inlet, Extra-Small Rectangle, 6 x 3.5 inch https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3623 $18.99ea x2
3613-3.25 SS Worm Drive Hose Clamps, 2.25-2.75, 3.25” ID https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3613 $3.20ea x4

ALL42116 Allstar Performance LH Aluminum Single Spindle Duct
http://pitstopusa.com/i-5066463-alls...ghtweight.html $24.94ea x1
ALL42117 Allstar Performance RH Aluminum Single Spindle Duct
http://pitstopusa.com/i-5066464-alls...ghtweight.html $24.94ea. x1
7022 ButlerBuiltŪ Headlight Mount Duct, 7.75" x 5.5"
http://pitstopusa.com/i-5063720-butl...-75-x-5-5.html $11.83ea x2

Alternate, the spindle unit will be a much simpler install but does the 45 degree angle perform better than the 90 degree angle to the rotor surface? The spindle units look like you can drill holes where needed to align with existing spindle screw locations.: R46-003 Richardson Aluminum Single 45° Air Duct
http://pitstopusa.com/i-5085152-rich...-air-duct.html $27.87ea. x2
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:00 AM   #14
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Should this go in the main DIY section of the forum? I would think this mod could work on just about any 5th gen Camaro
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:48 AM   #15
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Great work!

Looks nice, clean and effective. This is on my list to do for the winter and I will follow your lead on this and include the quantum ducts.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:57 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerspeed92 View Post
I really need to do this,as i brake late and hard.Man, at Fontana a couple weeks ago i couldn't even hold my lug nuts they were so hot.I wont be able to afford this till after Christmas,but is there an instruction sheet that you can post so i can see if this is even something i can do by myself?
I have the ducted backing plates from Lambert Auto in my shop waiting to install. I don't think instructions were included, but I have already scoped out the installation.
You will need to remove the Caliper and the rotor and remove the 1/2 backing plate mounted on the 1LE spindle. Two bolts on the lower portion of the spindle hold the plate on.
Per GM, the caliper mounting bolts are a one use item and must be replaced, so you will need 4 new caliper mounting bolts. (About $3.50 apiece at my local Chevy dealer) I believe the torque for these is 30 ft-lb + 90 degrees.
Because the 1LE only has a backing plate covering the lower half of the spindle you will also need one 6mm-1.0 X 20mm bolt for each side to bolt the top of the ducted backing plate to the spindle. (Working from memory here but I'm pretty sure that is the size and the correct torque spec for the caliper) The hole is already there and threaded but on the 1LE from the factory it is not used. Once you have the new ducted backing plate bolted on. Reinstall the rotor and the caliper and figure out how to route the duct hose.
I plan on doing this job later this week and will take some photos. I'm scheduled to go back to Watkins Glen for two days the beginning of October and definitely want all my brake upgrades done before then.
Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:58 PM   #17
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Wow,thanks,very nice write up.It does seem a little involved,to me anyway since this is all new to me.I replaced the rotors on my 2011 1LT/RS RS with cross drilled/slotted ones,so i would be surprised if i couldn't do this.Hope your going to share video of Watkins Glen with us,man that must be a fun track.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:13 PM   #18
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Should this go in the main DIY section of the forum? I would think this mod could work on just about any 5th gen Camaro
No.

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Old 09-04-2013, 02:38 PM   #19
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Glad I stumbled on this. I'm in the middle of getting all my parts together for a CTS-V/ZL1 brake upgrade. What's another couple of hundred dollars?
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:46 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by cornerspeed92 View Post
Wow,thanks,very nice write up.It does seem a little involved,to me anyway since this is all new to me.I replaced the rotors on my 2011 1LT/RS RS with cross drilled/slotted ones,so i would be surprised if i couldn't do this.Hope your going to share video of Watkins Glen with us,man that must be a fun track.
Thanks

If you can change the rotors you have done all the disassembly required to do the backing plates except removing the old backing plate and installing the new one. The old 1LE backing plate is two bolts the new plate is three. The third hole is already in the spindle/knuckle or whatever you want to call it. I checked the bolt size and torque when I got home.
Caliper bolt torque is 30 lb ft + 90 degrees
The third bolt needed to mount the ducted backing plate is 6mm-1.0 x 15mm long. The 20 mm long I said in the previous post will also work. You'll need two, one for each side.
Caliper removal is different for the SS than a 1LT. SS has no slider bolts or pad bracket. Remove the two pins that hold the pads, remove the pads then remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper is off.

Watkins Glen was a blast. Went to a two day novice school so an old drag racer could learn how to turn corners at the end of the straight stretch. Been 180 mph in a straight line then pulled the chute and stomped the brakes. This corner thing is a little different. The school says five to six track days to go from Novice to Intermediate. I did it in two. Sorry no video for the first two days out but I'm planning on getting a camera for the Intermediate school October 2nd and 3rd and will post after that.

Track photographer got some good shoots I'm attaching a few.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:10 PM   #21
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Thanks

If you can change the rotors you have done all the disassembly required to do the backing plates except removing the old backing plate and installing the new one. The old 1LE backing plate is two bolts the new plate is three. The third hole is already in the spindle/knuckle or whatever you want to call it. I checked the bolt size and torque when I got home.
Caliper bolt torque is 30 lb ft + 90 degrees
The third bolt needed to mount the ducted backing plate is 6mm-1.0 x 15mm long. The 20 mm long I said in the previous post will also work. You'll need two, one for each side.
Caliper removal is different for the SS than a 1LT. SS has no slider bolts or pad bracket. Remove the two pins that hold the pads, remove the pads then remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper is off.

Watkins Glen was a blast. Went to a two day novice school so an old drag racer could learn how to turn corners at the end of the straight stretch. Been 180 mph in a straight line then pulled the chute and stomped the brakes. This corner thing is a little different. The school says five to six track days to go from Novice to Intermediate. I did it in two. Sorry no video for the first two days out but I'm planning on getting a camera for the Intermediate school October 2nd and 3rd and will post after that.

Track photographer got some good shoots I'm attaching a few.
Awesome photos! Your car looks great and I'm sure you kicked ass. Can't wait for my event next week, I'll be there Monday and Tuesday. School one day, and time trail the next.

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Old 09-04-2013, 05:20 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by td195f View Post
Thanks

If you can change the rotors you have done all the disassembly required to do the backing plates except removing the old backing plate and installing the new one. The old 1LE backing plate is two bolts the new plate is three. The third hole is already in the spindle/knuckle or whatever you want to call it. I checked the bolt size and torque when I got home.
Caliper bolt torque is 30 lb ft + 90 degrees
The third bolt needed to mount the ducted backing plate is 6mm-1.0 x 15mm long. The 20 mm long I said in the previous post will also work. You'll need two, one for each side.
Caliper removal is different for the SS than a 1LT. SS has no slider bolts or pad bracket. Remove the two pins that hold the pads, remove the pads then remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper is off.

Watkins Glen was a blast. Went to a two day novice school so an old drag racer could learn how to turn corners at the end of the straight stretch. Been 180 mph in a straight line then pulled the chute and stomped the brakes. This corner thing is a little different. The school says five to six track days to go from Novice to Intermediate. I did it in two. Sorry no video for the first two days out but I'm planning on getting a camera for the Intermediate school October 2nd and 3rd and will post after that.

Track photographer got some good shoots I'm attaching a few.
Man these 1LE'S just look like they belong on the track,nice pics.I obviously know what lb ft is what it +90 degrees?
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:18 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by cornerspeed92 View Post
Man these 1LE'S just look like they belong on the track,nice pics.I obviously know what lb ft is what it +90 degrees?
It appears that GM is using "Torque to Yield" bolts to hold the calipers. You torque the bolt to 30 lb ft and then tighten the bolt an additional 90 degrees to set the proper clamping force. This will actually cause the bolt to stretch.
The proper way to do this is to use a "torque angle gauge or indicator". They can be bought at most auto parts stores for as little as $10.
When you do this the bolts are not reusable and the GM service manual states that. That's why I said in my first post you will need four new bolts. Any time you remove your calipers you'll have to replace the bolts. I ordered 4 extra the other day so I would have them if I needed to pull the calipers at the track for some reason.
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:41 PM   #24
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I so need to add this to my winter list. Thanks guys
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Old 01-25-2014, 03:06 PM   #25
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Thank you Dropspeed for this awesome write up. Did mine today with the help of my little bro. Gonna be ready for the track in no time! Next project will be changing the lines and fluid out in the next week or two.

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