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Old 09-05-2013, 09:32 AM   #18
LRJet35
 
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What app is that for your timing?
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:58 AM   #19
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What app is that for your timing?
Harry's Lap timer......I just use the Rookie Edition which was about $10.00

-Matt
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:24 AM   #20
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This is probably a dumb question for you seasoned road race guys, but why drive with the windows down? Is it a rule or a preference. When we drag raced the 1969, windows were always up. Why the deference?
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:45 AM   #21
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Matt I might have missed this in your previous post, but what are you using for seat belts/harnesses?
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:00 PM   #22
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Harry's Lap timer......I just use the Rookie Edition which was about $10.00

-Matt
Cool thanks
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:04 PM   #23
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This is probably a dumb question for you seasoned road race guys, but why drive with the windows down? Is it a rule or a preference. When we drag raced the 1969, windows were always up. Why the deference?
It's a rule at every track day I've been to. It's a safety consideration along with having to wear long pants etc. Makes it easier to get out in the event of an accident.
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Old 09-07-2013, 03:05 PM   #24
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Mandatory for the track's liability insurance usually as well. Raining or not they have to stay down.
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Old 09-07-2013, 03:28 PM   #25
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I either didn't hit submit or my posts dissapeared. BUT

Windows down is a rule so they can get to you if there is an incident. "Real" race cars use window nets. In drag racing the biggest chance for a failure and then flying parts is at the launch when you are side by side. I assume the glass will deflect or and least slow down the projectile???

I run the stock seat and belt right now with a heavy left foot on the dead pedal. I will not run a harness without a rollbar but that is just from seeing too many on track incidents. A good seat will work just as well as harness in a street car application.

Matt
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Old 09-07-2013, 06:49 PM   #26
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Yeah it was weird because I saw your posts and then they were gone.
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Old 09-07-2013, 07:24 PM   #27
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Yeah it was weird because I saw your posts and then they were gone.
Ok good because I was thinking I was going nuts.
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:39 PM   #28
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2 days till my first track day, cant wait, BeckyD is supposed to be there as well, love seeing these updates Matt
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:54 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dropspeed View Post
Harry's Lap timer......I just use the Rookie Edition which was about $10.00

-Matt
I have this app too and cannot figure out how the heck to operate it ... and I'm technically savvy with computers.
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:59 PM   #30
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Dropspeed, thank you for the write up. I light how your car looks lowered and really appreciate your honestly that the 2s is likely due to track time vs. lowering the car. Glad to hear it still handles like before.

I'm contemplating the brake ducts too however a race instructor suggested Hawk DTC-60s or DTC-70s pads first (no, not the low dust pads) suggesting that brake ducts can wait until I have sticky tires. What do you think?

Please say Hello to Becky from the 11/12/2012 group. :-)
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:52 PM   #31
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2 days till my first track day, cant wait, BeckyD is supposed to be there as well, love seeing these updates Matt
I was at the Rodgers on Thursday and she said you would be there as well. CGI is a well run group/event and you will have a ton of fun!


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Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
Dropspeed, thank you for the write up. I light how your car looks lowered and really appreciate your honestly that the 2s is likely due to track time vs. lowering the car. Glad to hear it still handles like before.

I'm contemplating the brake ducts too however a race instructor suggested Hawk DTC-60s or DTC-70s pads first (no, not the low dust pads) suggesting that brake ducts can wait until I have sticky tires. What do you think?

Please say Hello to Becky from the 11/12/2012 group. :-)
Not a problem and I enjoy sharing my experiences and knowledge (and options ) with other 1LE owners. After working in the aftermarket speed part industry for many years I hate it when people "throw" money at cars on parts they truly don't need or that don't perform as they should. I tell it like it is so others can make decisions based on their needs or wants.

Pads are a great upgrade on almost all cars, however our stock parts perform very very well. I have 4 track days on the car and have been impressed with them.

When you change to a more aggressive pad you are doing so to create more friction which inturn stops the car quicker or at least consistently within a set temp range. This friction creates heat and heat is the enemy of a brake system. I think ducts should be the first upgrade followed by the pads. (In my opinion.)

Matt
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Old 11-16-2013, 05:52 PM   #32
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I sent you a pm...would you mond posting links to the springs you bought that lowered the car but didn't sacrifice stock performance?

I'm having trouble identifying exactly which ones I need to get. Looking to drop an inch or so without sacrificing performance
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:55 AM   #33
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I sent you a pm...would you mond posting links to the springs you bought that lowered the car but didn't sacrifice stock performance?

I'm having trouble identifying exactly which ones I need to get. Looking to drop an inch or so without sacrificing performance
They're Pedders' springs, part #'s 220032 & 220033. If I'm not mistaken.
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:23 PM   #34
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They're Pedders' springs, part #'s 220032 & 220033. If I'm not mistaken.
Can someone confirm?

Not doubting you just looking for some verification.
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