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Old 09-09-2013, 09:26 AM   #26
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How hard is removal of the cradle bushings? I was at a shop where a sledge hammer was being used on something...
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:57 AM   #27
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How hard is removal of the cradle bushings? I was at a shop where a sledge hammer was being used on something...
There is a couple ways that we have seen people remove the factory rear cradle bushings. Many of our customers will use a sawzall/reciprocating saw and make two slice from the inner sleeve through the outer sleeve which releases the pressure on the bushings and you can hammer or press them out. I have also had customers use a small propane torch and heat the rear cradle where the cradle bushings are and it will loosen up the glue that help to hold those in and then they can be hammered or pressed out.
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:07 PM   #28
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Thanks Kyle. Reminds me of the old days and splitting ball joints. (Yes, I'm old. )
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:28 PM   #29
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Thanks Kyle. Reminds me of the old days and splitting ball joints. (Yes, I'm old. )
Come on you are not old just well experienced!

The factory rear cradle bushing can be kind of a pain to get out sometimes but replacing them definitely yields very good results in both handling and straight-line performance.
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:48 PM   #30
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Come on you are not old just well experienced!

The factory rear cradle bushing can be kind of a pain to get out sometimes but replacing them definitely yields very good results in both handling and straight-line performance.
Couldn't agree more.
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Old 09-10-2013, 08:21 AM   #31
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Trying to find vids showing how involved the work is to remove. I would like this upgrade.
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:05 AM   #32
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Trying to find vids showing how involved the work is to remove. I would like this upgrade.
Here is a link that has some pretty good information when it comes to replacing the rear cradle/subframe bushings:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108777
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:52 AM   #33
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Here is a link that has some pretty good information when it comes to replacing the rear cradle/subframe bushings:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108777
Thanks...the thread confirmed that this is a shop job.
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Old 09-10-2013, 02:32 PM   #34
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Thanks...the thread confirmed that this is a shop job.
Sometimes it is definitely better to have a shop do it if you don't have the time or tools to conquer a job like this. It can be a real headache if you get stuck in the middle of it.
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:22 PM   #35
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Thanks for contributing to the thread Kyle. Tons of great info.
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Old 09-10-2013, 08:08 PM   #36
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Did the cradle/subframe bushings in my garage using just hand tools and a propane torch. More info in this thread too:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...bushing+remove

Post 25 is what I did.
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:51 AM   #37
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Thanks for contributing to the thread Kyle. Tons of great info.
Not a problem Chase, I try to help out where I can.
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:56 PM   #38
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Nice write up Chase!

Any chance you could possibly to provide a relative score for each of the recommended upgrades with regard to how much each degrades ride comfort and also how much road/suspension noise in the cabin is increased?
^This. While I'm interested in improving all aspects of the car, I'm realistic enough to realize that I drive over rough road a lot more than I engage in spirited driving. Sadly, from what I've heard on here, only the most basic suspension mod can be done before it starts hurting ride quality. Hoping to get the facts in this thread.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:28 AM   #39
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^This. While I'm interested in improving all aspects of the car, I'm realistic enough to realize that I drive over rough road a lot more than I engage in spirited driving. Sadly, from what I've heard on here, only the most basic suspension mod can be done before it starts hurting ride quality. Hoping to get the facts in this thread.
As long as you do not swap to bearings rather than bushings on the rear arms none of the upgrades mentioned are going to hurt ride quality to a point where it would inappropriate for a daily driver. Mostly what you are going to notice is a more connected/planted feel. Less movement in the rear of the car.
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:16 PM   #40
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Thanks for your order. Be sure to let us know what you think after you get them installed.
UPS has them now with a delivery date of Wednesday 9/18.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:13 AM   #41
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UPS has them now with a delivery date of Wednesday 9/18.
Got those installed yet?

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Old 10-19-2013, 01:23 AM   #42
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Got those installed yet?

Been in the hospital and recuperating for the last month. Still not quite a 100% but hope to be soon. Question: After installing the rear trailing arms and rear toe rods, will it need a rear wheel alignment? How hard is the installation with the car on jack stands?
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:27 AM   #43
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Been in the hospital and recuperating for the last month. Still not quite a 100% but hope to be soon. Question: After installing the rear trailing arms and rear toe rods, will it need a rear wheel alignment? How hard is the installation with the car on jack stands?
Hope you are doing better. That is not a fun way to spend your time. With the toe rod swap you will need to get the alignment looked at. With the car on jack stands you will be good to go.
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:09 PM   #44
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Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:29 PM   #45
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Hope you are doing better. That is not a fun way to spend your time. With the toe rod swap you will need to get the alignment looked at. With the car on jack stands you will be good to go.
Would you recommend painting the parts before installing them?
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:13 AM   #46
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Would you recommend painting the parts before installing them?
That would be a personal choice. They are stainless steel so you don't have to worry about corrosion but it would look really good. If you show your car judges might prefer the finished look.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:51 PM   #47
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Thanks for the help Chase!
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:04 AM   #48
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Thanks for the help Chase!
No problem.
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:05 PM   #49
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Very good information on movement causing wheel hop. For those who don't know WHY movement takes place, think about it a second.

1. The motor torques HARD on a hard launch. Look at NHRA stock class cars and it's VERY obvious. Super Stock cars all carry the front wheels a few feet, but the Stock class cars make it clear. The Stock class cars all pick up the left front wheel. That torque on a Gen 5 Camaro without a full roll cage and subframe connectors, is causing bigtime flex of the entire chassis.

2. Your slightly modded Gen 5 Camaro has a limited slip differential. Those clutches in the rear are deciding where the motor torque is going by easing power on the slippery side and putting power where the traction is. The already engine torque twisted chassis is being "bounced" left and right as the differential clutches rapidly apply the engine torque to whichever side has traction. Bounce = wheel hop

Drag cars run spools which lock the differential so the axles are always turning at the same rate. NO side-to-side shifting of torque means those NHRA Super Stock cars that leave with the front wheels high in the air, go straight. Street cars that launch wheels high up, usually ends up BADLY.

In the old days, when parts to cure problems in street cars were not available or too expensive, guys made parts or "made do". I've seen guys regrind worn race cams. I've seen guys cast their own pistons. Stroker motors small block Chevys were a simple matter of offset grinding a large journal junkyard crank to a small journal crank. Voila! You now have a stroker crank for the cost of a machine shop crank grind.

My L88 Chevelle with a 2.54 Muncie left HARD at 5500 RPM, but didn't flex as it was a full frame car. It had home built ladder bars on swap meet bought 50/50 downlock Koni rear shocks and worn out stock shocks with extensions on the front. How did I keep it straight when it launched high wheels up? I couldn't afford a spool or even a mini spool, so I did what guys in the 50s did and weld up the spider gears in the rear. Hey....it locked the axles together and it worked. Going around corners with the outside rear tire hopping was something that was just part of the hotrod game.

Just my $0.02
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:16 PM   #50
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Been in the hospital and recuperating for the last month. Still not quite a 100% but hope to be soon. Question: After installing the rear trailing arms and rear toe rods, will it need a rear wheel alignment? How hard is the installation with the car on jack stands?
I'm still recovering from 2 major back surgeries in 2012. I've been permanently disabled since 2011. I WAS making a recovery until September, when some old fart speeding in the Walmart crosswalk decided he had the right of way instead of me and my shopping cart. I was working at rehab exercise to strengthening my core up until then. I was doing at least 200 crunches per day. Now, this disabled vet is back to square 1. Before being hit, I could run errands for 5 to 6 hours and still function the next day. Now I'm back to doing about 2 hours per day before I'm too tired to continue.
At least I have a lawyer.
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Back when folks were killing brain cells huffing glue, I was huffing 327s with 6-71s and having more fun than the glue guys.
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