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Old 08-26-2013, 09:26 PM   #449
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Hmmm, is moisture really an issue with headers that hot? Also, welds cracking would point to other issues plus welds on headers vs. other OEM parts like steering rod or other parts going bad?! How well does coating work as compared to wrap?
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:32 AM   #450
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Hmmm, is moisture really an issue with headers that hot? Also, welds cracking would point to other issues plus welds on headers vs. other OEM parts like steering rod or other parts going bad?! How well does coating work as compared to wrap?
Moisture can still be an issue, if it cant escape, it also has to do with other gasses/minerals or something that lead to pitting.

Welds would crack because they are the weakest link i assume, and when you wrap, its everything before and after the wrap that gets the hottest (i.e. the welds at the primaries, and the collector area), so that could lead to extra wear on those areas.

Never heard of a steering rod going bad, its just that, a rod, ive heard of headers in certain cars putting off too much heat and having a starter go out, but still, not often, and not on our cars that I can say.

The truth is, at operating temps, and when racing, the headers are going to get just as hot with coating or no coating, and possibly even with wrapping. Its the faster cooling that people like about the coating.

Coating allows the heat to dissapate and move on faster, which helps the headers cool off faster, and gets the heat away from the engine, definitely better than wrap.

A wrap may keep the ambient temps slightly lower, but coating seems to be the safer and longer lasting bet, especially when you think about coating covering the flange, welds, collector, etc. (not just the tubes like wrapping)

Coating used to be mandatory with mild steel headers, but most of the ones that are made for 5th gens are stainless, and dont require a coating to resist rust, so for most people the extra 400$ isnt worth it for just the faster cooling down of a stainless header.

Sorry Doc for build thread jacking.
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:10 AM   #451
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Originally Posted by vroomapunk View Post
Moisture can still be an issue, if it cant excape, it also has to do with other gasses/minerals or something that lead to pitting.

Welds would crack because they are the weakest link i assume, and when you wrap, its everything before and after the wrap that gets the hottest (i.e. the welds at the primaries, and the collector area), so that could lead to extra wear on those areas.

Never heard of a steering rod going bad, its just that, a rod, ive heard of headers in certain cars putting off too much heat and having a starter go out, but still, not often, and not on our cars that I can say.

The truth is, at operating temps, and when racing, the headers are going to get just as hot with coating or no coating, and possibly even with wrapping. Its the faster cooling that people like about the coating.

Coating allows the heat to dissapate and move on faster, which helps the headers cool off faster, and gets the heat away from the engine, definitely better than wrap.

A wrap may keep the ambient temps slightly lower, but coating seems to be the safer and longer lasting bet, especially when you think about coating covering the flange, welds, collector, etc. (not just the tubes like wrapping)

Coating used to be mandatory with mild steel headers, but most of the ones that are made for 5th gens are stainless, and dont require a coating to resist rust, so for most people the extra 400$ isnt worth it for just the faster cooling down of a stainless header.

Sorry Doc for build thread jacking.
No apology needed; the information was very appropriate. Thank you!
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:02 AM   #452
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Well I'm selling my previous set of wheels. I have a link to the for sale thread:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315227

For anyone that wants a killer deal on a custom set of 3-piece forged rims I'm selling them for half what I paid for them.
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:02 PM   #453
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Want.... need more pictures of your new wheels Doc, would like to see how much they stick out past the fenders.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:47 PM   #454
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Want.... need more pictures of your new wheels Doc, would like to see how much they stick out past the fenders.
Here's the measurement looking straight down from the top of the front fender:
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Here's a slightly off-center view of the front wheel:
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Here's a shot of the back wheel; it doesn't stick out past the fender at all:
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:34 PM   #455
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Filled the car up and took it to the truck scale; much to my surprise the weight was more than I thought it would be. I remember last time I had it weighed it was over 30 lbs less than I was expecting so maybe there was a problem with the scale at that time. I've since added a few miscellaneous items; a pound here, a pound or two there, which slowly add up. And even though the new wheels weigh about 32 lbs less than the other ones I had, the vehicle weight is about 40 lbs more than I thought it would be, although at 3,700 lbs it's still good.
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So at this point the rwhp is about 20 hp less than I was told I had and the weight is 40 lbs more lol. Ted Jannetty did my latest tune and with the addition of his race scoop he's estimating I'm making 450 rwhp which I'll accept. The dyno run right after the Pfadt headers were installed showed 440 and that was without the scoop and his new tune. This puts my power-to-weight ratio at 8.22-1 which is slightly above my goal of 8-1. I'd have to take another 100 lbs off to hit that which isn't going to happen. The other way to hit it would be to add another 12.5 rwhp which is much more likely.

Right now my immediate goal is to get sway bar end links that don't make noise. The Pfadt end links I have do (which is a known issue with more than a few guys on the forum) and they're supposed to be sending me a new set so we'll see how they do.
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:09 PM   #456
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Filled the car up and took it to the truck scale; much to my surprise the weight was more than I thought it would be. I remember last time I had it weighed it was over 30 lbs less than I was expecting so maybe there was a problem with the scale at that time. I've since added a few miscellaneous items; a pound here, a pound or two there, which slowly add up. And even though the new wheels weigh about 32 lbs less than the other ones I had, the vehicle weight is about 40 lbs more than I thought it would be, although at 3,700 lbs it's still good.


So at this point the rwhp is about 20 hp less than I was told I had and the weight is 40 lbs more lol. Ted Jannetty did my latest tune and with the addition of his race scoop he's estimating I'm making 450 rwhp which I'll accept. The dyno run right after the Pfadt headers were installed showed 440 and that was without the scoop and his new tune. This puts my power-to-weight ratio at 8.22-1 which is slightly above my goal of 8-1. I'd have to take another 100 lbs off to hit that which isn't going to happen. The other way to hit it would be to add another 12.5 rwhp which is much more likely.

Right now my immediate goal is to get sway bar end links that don't make noise. The Pfadt end links I have do (which is a known issue with more than a few guys on the forum) and they're supposed to be sending me a new set so we'll see how they do.
Im sure you've considered this, but I would assume those truck scales arent all that accurate to the pound, or even 10 pounds. Personally I would attribute any unexpected weight gain or loss to the scale and try to average out the weights and expected weights. But I guess you need a point to go off of haha. I wonder where you would have to go to get the vehicle weighed exactly, maybe a dump or salvage yard that charges you by the pound for what you bring or take out?

Just a thought.

Great job either way
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:28 PM   #457
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I haven't hit the truck scale I've used in a while, I was 3740 with junk in the trunk, half tank gas, and 20's up front. Since then I went to 18's up front that should have dropped about 23 lbs from the car. I'm guessing I'm around 3700 too.
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:20 PM   #458
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Do it over the same?

Doc, I was wondering if you would do all these mods the same if you had to do it over again? What where your top three mods that made the biggest difference? Love the car!
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:32 AM   #459
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Doc, I was wondering if you would do all these mods the same if you had to do it over again? What where your top three mods that made the biggest difference? Love the car!
Thank you! I would do the same except now there's so much more choice than there was then. If I had to do it over starting now, I'd go with a 21 lb battery instead of the 15 lb, and the wheels I have now instead of the ones I bought then (because the ones I have now are lighter). The wheels I have now weren't available at that time. I would also consider engine mounts that weren't quite as stiff as the Pfadt ones although they do work as advertised.

Top 3 mods that made the biggest difference I could feel... probably replacing the rear bushings, the brake rotors, and the lighter wheels. The car's handling improved dramatically with those 3 mods. I did those separately at different times so I can only imagine how it would feel to do all 3 at once.

Honestly though if I could start over I'd start with a 1LE and go from there.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:43 AM   #460
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Doc,

Mind if I ask why you'd go with the 21 lb battery over the 15 lb one?
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:48 AM   #461
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Rear bushings = diff bushing in the back?
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12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune
11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:49 AM   #462
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Rear bushings = diff bushing in the back?
I think he's referring to the rear cradle bushings, but
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