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Old 09-09-2013, 12:49 AM   #101
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I really want to try this
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:13 AM   #102
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@ Sky

....That looks great, but I'm so afraid to try it.

Sky, I have a great fear of altering OEM parts, so I understand your concern. I went this route because I saw many aftermarket lighting systems require you to heat up the housing and separate the lens. Now, while I know through working on other vehicles that the heating route works, its scares the s#!t out of me still. So I figured a top cut will reduce the chances of ruining the housing.

You can always try one and if you don't like it, seal it up and be done with it.

Anyhow, good luck if you do try. Take care.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:52 AM   #103
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What did you use to make the cut? I don't have any power tools for cutting.
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:26 PM   #104
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Wish one if you guys will do pre cut sheets and sell them haha but seriously, consider it
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:33 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky View Post
What did you use to make the cut? I don't have any power tools for cutting.
i used a dremel tool. its really easy. just try it bro i got faith in ya
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:37 PM   #106
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Quote:
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I really want to try this
What you waiting for? we got awesome weather, get to work lol
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:27 PM   #107
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So of all the days for the starts to align! I picked today to get the goods and this specific thread was down as well as some other problems with the site! So for future notice for anyone trying this. Use a Dremmel! And personally white silicone helps to locate where the areas that are leaking air are.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:37 AM   #108
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I did this mod as well and love it. I will make some for other people for material and shipping. If anyone wants just pm me.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:52 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky View Post
So of all the days for the starts to align! I picked today to get the goods and this specific thread was down as well as some other problems with the site! So for future notice for anyone trying this. Use a Dremmel! And personally white silicone helps to locate where the areas that are leaking air are.
Looks awesome!

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I did this mod as well and love it. I will make some for other people for material and shipping. If anyone wants just pm me.
Looks great! PM sent!


Also, do either of you have pics of the tops of the tails after you installed/cut?
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:08 AM   #110
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Looks great savage
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:27 PM   #111
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pm sent back i can take a pic of mine if you would like.
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:28 PM   #112
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@ Sky

Sorry for the late reply. I used a dremel as well.

Very nice end product by the way.
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Old 09-17-2013, 03:08 PM   #113
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Thanks for the extra push. I love it. Very good mod and I'm proud I did it by myself.
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:54 PM   #114
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Quote:
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Thanks for the extra push. I love it. Very good mod and I'm proud I did it by myself.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:52 AM   #115
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Someone may have brought this up, but it appears that the aluminum piece makes the tails look really bringht red during the day with the lights off, sort of making the RS lens look like the non-rs. Would everyone recommend painting the outerside of the insert black so it doesnt reflect the sunlight?
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:44 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by vroomapunk View Post
Someone may have brought this up, but it appears that the aluminum piece makes the tails look really bringht red during the day with the lights off, sort of making the RS lens look like the non-rs. Would everyone recommend painting the outerside of the insert black so it doesnt reflect the sunlight?
I believe the DIY mentioned painting the side exposed , black and leaving the side that reflects light bare so it brightens it up.
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:44 PM   #117
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Someone may have brought this up, but it appears that the aluminum piece makes the tails look really bringht red during the day with the lights off, sort of making the RS lens look like the non-rs. Would everyone recommend painting the outerside of the insert black so it doesnt reflect the sunlight?
I had originally used a piece of black construction paper to slip into the housing for a sizing guide. However, after looking through the lens, my opinion was it didn't look right. But you know...to each their own. I don't foresee any issues with painting the outer facing side of the insert black as long as the paint is resistant to heat...it should work fine.

If you make this alteration, I'd love to see it. Post some pics.
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Old 09-28-2013, 12:24 AM   #118
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I'd seen this thread before, but hadn't paid much attention until I saw pictures of several installs and it looks really great! I'm all for DIY, but when it comes to cutting anything, I leave it to the machine as it does a way better job than I could, and I just don't have the time to sit down and cut something like his out by hand.

I drew up the original template from the OP, but thought to myself that it might look pretty cool with some Chevy bowties in the centers, so I went ahead and added that too. Slotted the hole for side to side adjustment. I also added little notches on the tab for bend location.

Waterjet cut these out of some .040" stainless steel scrap I had handy. I can't wait to get them installed and see what they look like! I'm hoping the bowtie doesn't let too much light through and get blurred out at night.

After reading through the thread, I think that I won't paint the exposed side black as that may make the lens look too dark IMO, but hard to say. I think I will paint the outside some kind of dark red/maroon color.

I hate to make money off someone elses idea, but with the OP's permission (sounds like someone else already got it?), I could sell these to those interested that don't have the time or tools to cut these out themselves... Much cheaper than the prices I've seen that some of you are willing to pay. Obviously I can't "sell" the afterburner pieces with the Chevy bowtie in them for legality issues, and due to site rules as they are not GM licensed.

Will post pics once I get them installed. Hopefully tomorrow if I'm lucky and can find enough time.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:39 AM   #119
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Those look awesome man!

I actually started doing this last night, coming along pretty easily. Centering them seems like it will be a bitch.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:29 AM   #120
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Done.

I have a couple tips:

1. Definitely do the "sucking" technique to make sure there are no leaks. I applied silicone, then sucked really hard , then I found the weak spots, filled them in with more, then sucked "medium strength" I guess to see if any more spots were thin/had voids and air pockets, then added more If I needed to.

I got "clear silicone" that is white and appears to dry clear, but I guess I used a ton and it stayed white lol.

2. I would NOT recommend washing out with water, this was the only frustrating and time consuming part.

It takes, 10 mins to get the bezels and lights out, 10 mins to cut the slits, 10 mins to install and bend the pieces, 10 minutes to center them, and 10 minutes to screw them down and silicone. All in all, about an hour. IF you dont put water in haha.

I used a blow dryer, the warming drawer of my oven, and sat them in front of a fan all night, and im 99% sure I got all the moisture out.


As for the centering process, I dont have a good enough flashlight, so what I did was, and some may not know this, but the Bulb harness on each tail, can separate from the car wiring harness and the tail light can still be pulled out of the bumper with the bulb in.

So I:

1. Installed just the bulb and base outside of the car
2. Positioned the aluminum piece and put blue painters tape on the tab
3. Put the light in the car, and put the wiring harness on half way (so it doesnt click, makes it easier to pull on and off)
4. Hit the unlock button on the fob and note where adjustment is needed.
5. Pull the harness off and slide the light out, lift up the tape, slide the piece over a few hairs and repeat the steps until its right.

Remember, you must stand in the center of the car, at least 10-20 feet back to be sure its centered, the perspective changes drastically depending on where you stand.

I thought the cutting would be the hardest, but it wasnt, it really doesnt matter where your cut is side to side, as long as its correct front to back, and big enough to slide the piece in.

I plasti dipped the outer face black, and left the inner shiny so the light can bounce around. I took one silver and one black and put the housings in the sun and could barely tell the difference, so I figured there is no down side to painting black, and it looks better IMO.

Below are pics of various views, in the shade, in the light, with the lights off, on, and brakes on.

First pic is one side done, but I hadnt centered them yet.
Last pic is in the sunlight with them off.

OP feel free to use any of my pics if you want to.

Thanks to savage for sending me the pieces!
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:28 PM   #121
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I also was able to get mine installed yesterday. It took me about 1.5 to 2 hours. I had a hard time getting the trim rings around the tail lights out, and get my massive meats in to the outer most nuts holding the lights on. I found using a dogleg 10mm wrench pretty helpful to loosen, and retighten said nuts.

Unfortunately I wasn't thinking about the hexagon pattern in the lens, so my chevy bowtie cutouts inside the piece is a failure. If you stand back 10-20ft from certain angels it is almost recognizable as a chevy bowtie, but most of the time, it just takes away from the cleanliness of what the end result would have been... I think it would have looked better as just another half circle inside the outside one.

Some day time pics, I couldn't take any night ones as my Dad borrowed my good camera, and my cell wouldn't take a good picture at night.

Unlit:


Running lights, modified left, stock right:


Close up of modified side w/ running lights on:


Brake lights:


Close up of modified side w/ brake lights on:


I basically followed a similar method of the above to center the pieces in the tail lights, except I would place a cinder block on the brake pedal. Do one light at a time, before moving onto the next.

Vroomapunk, I'm curious to see how that plastidip stands up to the heat? I would think that it might melt off, or burn off? I used VHT Flameproof (good for 1300-2000 deg heat, probably a little over kill) dark red header paint on mine (but it came out more of a burn orange color).

My total cost for this mod:
VHT flameproof paint $12.99
Self drilling screws $5.99
Permatex clear silicone $6.99
Dremel (3000 model) $69.95 (didn't have one)
-------------
total w/o dremel $ 25.97
total w/ dremel $ 95.92

I'll leave them as is for now, I might try another set without the bowties sometime in the future. I agree with whoever mentioned it above, they could definitely stand to be a little bigger than the original OP template... Probably about 1/8" wider on each side, I think the height is ok though.

I'll try to get some night pictures tonight.

Best I could do of a night shot with my phone
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:00 PM   #122
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Looks good guys.
As for the Chevy cutout. I think if you add a second after cutout it will look pretty neat.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:44 PM   #123
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As for plasti dip and heat, I can't imagine the inside of the housing gets hot enough to melt it off. If plasti dip survives a year of Louisiana heat on a metal hood or bumper, exceeding 110 degrees. I would think it can hold up to indirect light bulb heat.

I'll keep an eye on it though.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:53 AM   #124
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As for plasti dip and heat, I can't imagine the inside of the housing gets hot enough to melt it off. If plasti dip survives a year of Louisiana heat on a metal hood or bumper, exceeding 110 degrees. I would think it can hold up to indirect light bulb heat.

I'll keep an eye on it though.
Don't forget the heat that is goes thru while on rims
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:56 AM   #125
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Don't forget the heat that is goes thru while on rims
True too. Its original pupose is to withstand a grown man's grip on a hand tool, hopefully it can take the heat. Aluminum disappates heat fast also. Id hate to have to pull them back out and clean off the silicone so I can pull the inserts and repaint them.

I had actually planned to plasti dip it just to test, and forgot to paint them after. Whoops. I think ill be fine though
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