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Old 09-29-2013, 08:33 PM   #1
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Unhappy Help: Brakes + Track Day

Hey all, trying to figure out how NOT to run out of brakes at the track days.

First time I had just stock brakes + stock fluid and got the much pedal.

I then changed out the fluid to Motul RBF600 Racing Brake Fluid and got the much pedal.

Last time I put fresh fluid in and changed to Hawk racing pads... I still overheated my brakes and had the fluid boil out the top bleeder valves.

I now got the ZL1 brake ducts to install in hopes that will stop the fluid from boiling and getting much pedal.



Any help (good help) is much appreciated.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:39 PM   #2
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Which Hawk pads are you running?
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:46 PM   #3
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DTC -30 - Front
DTC - 60 - Rear

(Yes, I know it should be the other way around. Got the front used and they still have half of the pad in them.


Last time at the PDE I had all four boil over out the top bleeder.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:48 PM   #4
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Are you sure it isn't the other way around?

DTC 60 Front
DTC 30 Rear

????
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:49 PM   #5
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Yup.. fronts given to me. bought the rear.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:56 PM   #6
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Yup.. fronts given to me. bought the rear.
The DTC 60 should be in front. Most would run the DTV 60 in the front and 30 in the rear. Your front brakes do most of the work when stopping. With the pads you have now, your braking is out of balance. Get a set for DTC 60s for the front. That will improve your braking enormously.

You need to completely flush you brake fluid too.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:04 PM   #7
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ZL1 brake ducts arent really brake ducts. They just push more air into the wheel well not neccesarily on the brakes.

The fluid shouldnt come out of the bleeder valve, make sure its closed and that you arent overfilling the resevoir.

Stainless lines help, better pads help, better rotors help, heck even better calipers help.

I run racingbrake products and have been on a course while it was 117 degrees with no brake fade. Might want to try their products. They reduce weight, heat, and brake better.

Mr. Pete gives sound advice with a complete fluid flush. I would go further and recommend a tech II bleed/flush at your trusted dealer.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:57 AM   #8
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The DTC 60 should be in front. Most would run the DTV 60 in the front and 30 in the rear. Your front brakes do most of the work when stopping. With the pads you have now, your braking is out of balance. Get a set for DTC 60s for the front. That will improve your braking enormously.

You need to completely flush you brake fluid too.
Yeah, I know. Really don't think this would be that much of a difference. I could be wrong though.

Always change the fluid before a track day . . I do the blue / gold flush.
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:00 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by SPCBA View Post
ZL1 brake ducts arent really brake ducts. They just push more air into the wheel well not neccesarily on the brakes.

The fluid shouldnt come out of the bleeder valve, make sure its closed and that you arent overfilling the resevoir.

Stainless lines help, better pads help, better rotors help, heck even better calipers help.

I run racingbrake products and have been on a course while it was 117 degrees with no brake fade. Might want to try their products. They reduce weight, heat, and brake better.

Mr. Pete gives sound advice with a complete fluid flush. I would go further and recommend a tech II bleed/flush at your trusted dealer.
Ok, I may look into modifying the ZL1 ducts then. Anyone else done this yet?

Already have Stainless lines.

I'll look into the racingbrake products. I do need new rotors, they have a slite warp to them now.

The tech II bleed flush is probably a good idea. Clean out all the ABS units.
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:20 AM   #10
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Yeah, I know. Really don't think this would be that much of a difference. I could be wrong though.

Always change the fluid before a track day . . I do the blue / gold flush.
Running your brake pads backwards is not a minor detail. You can install the finest brakes made and they will perform poorly with the wrong pads. Change your front pads.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:30 AM   #11
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Running your brake pads backwards is not a minor detail. You can install the finest brakes made and they will perform poorly with the wrong pads. Change your front pads.
Well, since you do this for a living.. I'll take your advice like gold.

I will replace before next track day.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:36 AM   #12
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I would also upgrade to the CTSV front brakes and ZL1 rotors, add to it better pads and fluid, Cobalt Friction pads and Castrol SRF fluid work great to get you stopped, but they are pricey...but I would rather pay more to stop versus dealing with damage later because I couldn't stop.....
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:37 AM   #13
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Keep in mind guys.. I only do track days 1 -2 times a YEAR. I Can't justify paying the price for the CTSV front brakes. :(
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:41 AM   #14
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Keep in mind guys.. I only do track days 1 -2 times a YEAR. I Can't justify paying the price for the CTSV front brakes. :(
Then follow what Pete advised you to try as he knows what he is talking about when it comes to these Camaros...
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