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Old 09-30-2013, 09:22 PM   #1
10 2SS/RS 6M
 
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The easiest way to grease your knuckle bushins without removing them

If you have upgraded your rear trailing arms or have just replaced the bushings with polyurethane bushings on the knuckle, they have to be greased (see pic w/bushing on pin) this was about a year and the half without nothing but the installation grease that came with the bushings and trailing arms.
I drilled a 1/16'' hole in the center of the knuckle where the two poly bushings meet inside the knuckle, I drilled a small hole to keep the strength of the knuckle, then dilled a 1/4'' wide hole about a 1/4'' deep to thread the grease fitting in, I threaded a 90 degree grease fitting on the knuckle due to the style of the trailing arms.
Now I can grease the knuckle bushings without removing the trailing arms, I don't have to even remove the wheels now.
I just thought I'd share this if anyone else would like to try this easy method of greasing these bushings, you see in the picture what happens if you don't grease them! And what happens when you use the wrong grease! >>>And your car should be aligned any time the trailing arms are removed!
I'll also explain how all this came to boot. I was having movement from the toe links that I all bought from BMR, now I'm not downgrading BMR at all. They actually helped me out a lot, they replaced all the bushings at no charge, even the knuckle bushings, and I'm glad they did because I wasn't going to replace that bushing due to I have never used a petroleum based grease on them, but with no grease and weather you get wear and rust as seen in the picture, but I plan on keeping all these bushings greased well, I been using this synthetic grease called SuperLube from BMR all is good now. I still don't like IRS's for drag racing but I'm not putting a solid axle under there either, so I got a lot of work to do still!
Thanks BMR!
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SLP- long tube headers, hi flow cats w/full SLP 3'' PowerFlo exhaust incl/X-pipe, 160 degree stat, SLP Blackwing CAI. Dyno tuned by ECS-407/409RWHP&TQ. BMR- trailing arms w/poly knuckle bushings, toe links, cradle bushings and differential bushings. Hurst short throw shifter, DSS- level 4 axles, DSS- aluminum driveshaft, Pfadt- sport swaybars w/HD adjustable links. Monster LT1-S twin, clutch, Prothane motor mounts. Best 1/4 mile so far- 12:70ET @ 112.24 MPH w/ 2.06 60'.

Last edited by 10 2SS/RS 6M; 09-30-2013 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:53 PM   #2
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I understand why you installed the zerk fitting, but it may not work as you planned. With a two part urethane bushing the ferule rotates inside the bushing and the bushing does not move. If the load bearing surface of the bushing is greased, the are of the bushing that fills the hole in the arm or knuckle, it facilitates lateral movement of the arm across the bushing which is not desirable. The purpose of installing the urethane bushing is to reduce lateral movement. This is especially true where engine or brake heat softens urethane and lube becomes more liquid. Some times less is more.





Link to Bushing Lubrication and Installation Guide


Detailed Bushing Installation Guide

When installing a new urethane bush you want to lubricate only the moving portion of the bush. When you know what moves you know what to lube. The bush does not move. The bush remains stationary in the loop of the arm it is installed in. The ferule inside the new Pedders urethane bush moves. The ferule rotates inside of the bush so we lubricate the hole for the ferule.

Urethane bushes have ferule holes that are designed to retain the special Molybdenum blended lubricant used by Pedders. Pedders lube retains lubricity under the most severe conditions. Make certain that the inner hole is thoroughly coated and no Pedders red material can be seen before inserting the ferule. Wipe off the excess lube that collected on the end of the ferule as it passed through the bush.

The most common installation error made is lubricating the load bearing surface of a urethane bush. If you lubricate the load bearing surface the bush slips and slides in the arm loop. This undesirable motion creates instability. This is most commonly seen with sway bar bushes sliding out of the clamp or two part control arm bushes sliding through the arm.

Steel jacketed rubber and urethane bushes should never be lubricated as they are pressed into the the arm loop. Pedders highly recommends the use of sleeve retention compounds. The loop should be grease and oil free as should the new bush steel jacket. Apply LocTite 680 in a single bead line around the lower portion of the steel jacket. Set the bush in place on the new arm and press it in with you hydraulic press. Use a carefully selected press plate or socket to protect the exposed rubber or urethane material.

For eXtreme Motorsports, Armored or Commercial applications staking the arm is a Best Practice at Pedders USA. To make certain that the steel jackets do not slip under these most extreme conditions, stake the arms. Use a center punch to stake, dimple the arms. Think of the arm as the face of a clock. We use three rows of dimples.

Row 1: set the first dimple at 12, the second at 3, the third at 6 and the fourth at 9.
Row 2: 1, 4, 7: and 10.
Row 3: 2, 5, 8, 11.
They don't need to be deep. A firm blow with a moderate size hammer is sufficient.
Clean the arms surface to be grease free
Clean the bush jacket to be grease free
Apply the retaining compound
Press in the bush

Additional Sleeve Retention Compounds
BOSSŪ 207 Anaerobic Bearing/Sleeve Retaining Compound
35143 Permatex 640 Sleeve Retaining Compound 6 ML Tube
CRC Sleeve Retaining Compound
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:38 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
I understand why you installed the zerk fitting, but it may not work as you planned. With a two part urethane bushing the ferule rotates inside the bushing and the bushing does not move. If the load bearing surface of the bushing is greased, the are of the bushing that fills the hole in the arm or knuckle, it facilitates lateral movement of the arm across the bushing which is not desirable. The purpose of installing the urethane bushing is to reduce lateral movement. This is especially true where engine or brake heat softens urethane and lube becomes more liquid. Some times less is more.





Link to Bushing Lubrication and Installation Guide


Detailed Bushing Installation Guide

When installing a new urethane bush you want to lubricate only the moving portion of the bush. When you know what moves you know what to lube. The bush does not move. The bush remains stationary in the loop of the arm it is installed in. The ferule inside the new Pedders urethane bush moves. The ferule rotates inside of the bush so we lubricate the hole for the ferule.

Urethane bushes have ferule holes that are designed to retain the special Molybdenum blended lubricant used by Pedders. Pedders lube retains lubricity under the most severe conditions. Make certain that the inner hole is thoroughly coated and no Pedders red material can be seen before inserting the ferule. Wipe off the excess lube that collected on the end of the ferule as it passed through the bush.

The most common installation error made is lubricating the load bearing surface of a urethane bush. If you lubricate the load bearing surface the bush slips and slides in the arm loop. This undesirable motion creates instability. This is most commonly seen with sway bar bushes sliding out of the clamp or two part control arm bushes sliding through the arm.

Steel jacketed rubber and urethane bushes should never be lubricated as they are pressed into the the arm loop. Pedders highly recommends the use of sleeve retention compounds. The loop should be grease and oil free as should the new bush steel jacket. Apply LocTite 680 in a single bead line around the lower portion of the steel jacket. Set the bush in place on the new arm and press it in with you hydraulic press. Use a carefully selected press plate or socket to protect the exposed rubber or urethane material.

For eXtreme Motorsports, Armored or Commercial applications staking the arm is a Best Practice at Pedders USA. To make certain that the steel jackets do not slip under these most extreme conditions, stake the arms. Use a center punch to stake, dimple the arms. Think of the arm as the face of a clock. We use three rows of dimples.

Row 1: set the first dimple at 12, the second at 3, the third at 6 and the fourth at 9.
Row 2: 1, 4, 7: and 10.
Row 3: 2, 5, 8, 11.
They don't need to be deep. A firm blow with a moderate size hammer is sufficient.
Clean the arms surface to be grease free
Clean the bush jacket to be grease free
Apply the retaining compound
Press in the bush

Additional Sleeve Retention Compounds
BOSSŪ 207 Anaerobic Bearing/Sleeve Retaining Compound
35143 Permatex 640 Sleeve Retaining Compound 6 ML Tube
CRC Sleeve Retaining Compound
I understand what your saying, but the grease fitting is positioned right at the two bushing halves, I by no means want to get grease on the outer part (load bearing) portion of the bushing. But did you see what happened to the bushing with NO grease, I try to only give it one slow pump of super lube there just to keep the pin lubricated and not wearing and rusting out the bushing pin, the poly bushing has the groves in it for lubricating purposes I always thought?

Thank you for the great info you provided, maybe that's why I'm having rear alignment problems!

I would also NEVER lube the outer portion of the bushings, I haven't been working with polyurethane bushings that long, but the thought never even entered my mind, it would be pointless to lube the side that's not supposed to move, now the outer portion that contacts the trailing arm I lube along with the pin and inner bushing the pin slides in.

Question: Do you think it would be better to seal the outer portion of the bushing to the ferule, to prevent any grease getting in between the bushing and the ferule when lubing the bushings with a grease gun? Thanks again.
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SLP- long tube headers, hi flow cats w/full SLP 3'' PowerFlo exhaust incl/X-pipe, 160 degree stat, SLP Blackwing CAI. Dyno tuned by ECS-407/409RWHP&TQ. BMR- trailing arms w/poly knuckle bushings, toe links, cradle bushings and differential bushings. Hurst short throw shifter, DSS- level 4 axles, DSS- aluminum driveshaft, Pfadt- sport swaybars w/HD adjustable links. Monster LT1-S twin, clutch, Prothane motor mounts. Best 1/4 mile so far- 12:70ET @ 112.24 MPH w/ 2.06 60'.

Last edited by 10 2SS/RS 6M; 10-01-2013 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:27 AM   #4
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Is this rust?

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Old 10-01-2013, 01:04 PM   #5
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Is this rust?

Yes the pin was rusty, and the bushings were worn.
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:16 PM   #6
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Yes the pin was rusty, and the bushings were worn.
When the outside of the bushings are flush with the ends of the ferule how big is the gap i the middle?
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:04 PM   #7
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When the outside of the bushings are flush with the ends of the ferule how big is the gap i the middle?
There's like a 1/16''-1/8''gap Between the bushings inside once inserted/pressed in, bushings were flush with ferule.
Here's some more pics of the knuckle bushings and pins, the last 3 pics of bushing and pin are dry wiped.
The side of the pin that had the most pressure applied is just worn not as rusted as the other side of the pin. I'm really getting tired of these poly bushings, would the Delron bushings be better or not have enough movement (too hard)? I assume ALL the bushings should be replaced, control arms etc., in order for everything to work correctly?
I also installed these almost a year and the half ago, no lube except the energy suspension pre-lube, on the knuckle bushings only never lubed after that. The rest were lubed regularly.
I really miss my solid axles! IRS, IMO suck for drag racing, great for handling, and I like that, I just have to redo the whole rear suspension, make it strong as possible, the HammerHead is going in next w/4.11's, I guess I'll do it when I install that, it will need it with a lot more torque on the suspension from the lower gears.
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Last edited by 10 2SS/RS 6M; 10-01-2013 at 05:42 PM. Reason: Added more info
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:00 PM   #8
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Here's some more pics of the pin wire wheeled clean, still pitted, notice the gap between the pin and bushing with pin inserted in the bushing.
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:03 PM   #9
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Those are not pretty pictures.

We use a steel jacketed bush in the rear knuckle for the trailing arm.



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Old 10-01-2013, 06:46 PM   #10
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Those are not pretty pictures.

We use a steel jacketed bush in the rear knuckle for the trailing arm.




I really like that set up. Do you have to enlarge the diameter of the hole for the Jacketed bushing to be pressed in, what style trailing arms do you use? I need those!
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SLP- long tube headers, hi flow cats w/full SLP 3'' PowerFlo exhaust incl/X-pipe, 160 degree stat, SLP Blackwing CAI. Dyno tuned by ECS-407/409RWHP&TQ. BMR- trailing arms w/poly knuckle bushings, toe links, cradle bushings and differential bushings. Hurst short throw shifter, DSS- level 4 axles, DSS- aluminum driveshaft, Pfadt- sport swaybars w/HD adjustable links. Monster LT1-S twin, clutch, Prothane motor mounts. Best 1/4 mile so far- 12:70ET @ 112.24 MPH w/ 2.06 60'.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:19 PM   #11
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I really like that set up. Do you have to enlarge the diameter of the hole for the Jacketed bushing to be pressed in, what style trailing arms do you use? I need those!
They are a direct replacement of the factory rubber bushing and will work with your arms. Use a threaded rod and a couple sockets to press out the rubber bush and the same setup to press in the new one.

Pedders # EP7265Z
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:55 PM   #12
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They are a direct replacement of the factory rubber bushing and will work with your arms. Use a threaded rod and a couple sockets to press out the rubber bush and the same setup to press in the new one.

Pedders # EP7265Z
Thank you!

The stock knuckle bushings have no metal jacket, I already pressed them out when I put the polyurethane bushings in, that method does work well too, of getting the stock rubber bushings out, just cut the rubber lip off and out it comes that way.
Can you let me know or PM me a price for the bushings? Thanks again.
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SLP- long tube headers, hi flow cats w/full SLP 3'' PowerFlo exhaust incl/X-pipe, 160 degree stat, SLP Blackwing CAI. Dyno tuned by ECS-407/409RWHP&TQ. BMR- trailing arms w/poly knuckle bushings, toe links, cradle bushings and differential bushings. Hurst short throw shifter, DSS- level 4 axles, DSS- aluminum driveshaft, Pfadt- sport swaybars w/HD adjustable links. Monster LT1-S twin, clutch, Prothane motor mounts. Best 1/4 mile so far- 12:70ET @ 112.24 MPH w/ 2.06 60'.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:10 PM   #13
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Thank you!

The stock knuckle bushings have no metal jacket, I already pressed them out when I put the polyurethane bushings in, that method does work well too, of getting the stock rubber bushings out, just cut the rubber lip off and out it comes that way.
Can you let me know or PM me a price for the bushings? Thanks again.
PM Sent. I forgot we had a short rear knuckle tour video.

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Old 10-03-2013, 07:35 AM   #14
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PM Sent. I forgot we had a short rear knuckle tour video.

Thanks for you help, great video, helpful to many I'm sure.
That's does look like the last bushing I will ever need on my knuckle.
Now what type of bushing do you recommend for the front of the trailing arm, I was thinking of a Heim joint, or is the 94 durometer poly bushings ok, or is better to go with Delron?
I'll make this easier and give you a call if you want also?
I also need a better bushing on the toe links, I don't want those poly bushings going soft on me also. Matter of fact I think I'm just going to buy your whole bushing kit, front and rear, I will be calling you as soon as I'm ready to order.
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SLP- long tube headers, hi flow cats w/full SLP 3'' PowerFlo exhaust incl/X-pipe, 160 degree stat, SLP Blackwing CAI. Dyno tuned by ECS-407/409RWHP&TQ. BMR- trailing arms w/poly knuckle bushings, toe links, cradle bushings and differential bushings. Hurst short throw shifter, DSS- level 4 axles, DSS- aluminum driveshaft, Pfadt- sport swaybars w/HD adjustable links. Monster LT1-S twin, clutch, Prothane motor mounts. Best 1/4 mile so far- 12:70ET @ 112.24 MPH w/ 2.06 60'.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:46 AM   #15
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Let me clear a few things up with this thread, the bushings in question and pictured here are our previous designed BMR Suspension outer trailing arm bushings. We have since redesigned the our outer trailing arm bushings to take care of the issues that were happening with the previous designed bushing and so far we have had zero issues and no complaints. The OP called me and told me he was having some movement in the trailing arm where it mounts on the spindle so I looked up his order and saw that he had our earlier outer trailing arm bushings so I told him that I would send him out a set of our newer designed outer trailing arm bushings free of charge. The hat-style bushing we use for our outer trailing arm bushing is used by other companies and has been used for years in the suspension industry so there honestly is nothing wrong with this particular style of bushing. From there the conversation moved from those particular bushings to what grease he previously used on the poly-urethane bushings and the OP was concerned since he didn't use a synthetic based grease so I told him along with the new outer trailing arm bushings I would send him new replacement bushings for the trailing arms and toe rods just to insure everything was in good working order. As long as the OP uses a synthetic based grease he shouldn't have any further issues with any of his BMR products.

Now installing the zerk fitting in the spindle is a very good idea, you just have to make sure it is located properly so that when you insert grease through it the grease makes it to the grease flutes in the bushing that direct and hold the grease in place to keep the inner sleeve lubed. Just to clear up some information or better yet misinformation here, if you do get some grease on the outer body of the bushing it isn't a big deal whatsoever because it is impossible for there to be any kind of lateral movement because the bushings is captured be the trailing arms. Here is a picture to explain this and show how there can be no lateral movement in this mounting point.

I am not going by any means going to sit up here and say that myself or BMR is perfect but what I can tell is that we do everything within our power to make things right if there is an issue. If anyone ever has an issue with any of their BMR products just get with me and I will make sure we get you taken care of.
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:50 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales View Post
Let me clear a few things up with this thread, the bushings in question and pictured here are our previous designed BMR Suspension outer trailing arm bushings. We have since redesigned the our outer trailing arm bushings to take care of the issues that were happening with the previous designed bushing and so far we have had zero issues and no complaints. The OP called me and told me he was having some movement in the trailing arm where it mounts on the spindle so I looked up his order and saw that he had our earlier outer trailing arm bushings so I told him that I would send him out a set of our newer designed outer trailing arm bushings free of charge. The hat-style bushing we use for our outer trailing arm bushing is used by other companies and has been used for years in the suspension industry so there honestly is nothing wrong with this particular style of bushing. From there the conversation moved from those particular bushings to what grease he previously used on the poly-urethane bushings and the OP was concerned since he didn't use a synthetic based grease so I told him along with the new outer trailing arm bushings I would send him new replacement bushings for the trailing arms and toe rods just to insure everything was in good working order. As long as the OP uses a synthetic based grease he shouldn't have any further issues with any of his BMR products.

Now installing the zerk fitting in the spindle is a very good idea, you just have to make sure it is located properly so that when you insert grease through it the grease makes it to the grease flutes in the bushing that direct and hold the grease in place to keep the inner sleeve lubed. Just to clear up some information or better yet misinformation here, if you do get some grease on the outer body of the bushing it isn't a big deal whatsoever because it is impossible for there to be any kind of lateral movement because the bushings is captured be the trailing arms. Here is a picture to explain this and show how there can be no lateral movement in this mounting point.

I am not going by any means going to sit up here and say that myself or BMR is perfect but what I can tell is that we do everything within our power to make things right if there is an issue. If anyone ever has an issue with any of their BMR products just get with me and I will make sure we get you taken care of.
Thanks BMR suspension for sending me the new bushings at no charge as I already mentioned, and the new style knuckle bushings, as you can see there installed in the pictures.
I'm still having problems with my rear alignment- toe keeps changing, I'm going to check everything else in the rear suspension real good AGAIN, then align it, then see what happens.
But I am going to replace ALL the bushing front and rear and solid cradle bushings in the near future when I buy the Hammerhead differential. Like I said, I wasn't down grading your products, and to replace them at no charge shows BMR suspension cares about there products, yes it was my fault for not using the correct grease, that ruined the toe link bushings, so that's why I said I appreciate your help. I'll keep informed on how I make out and what the problem is.
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:14 PM   #17
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Thanks BMR suspension for sending me the new bushings at no charge as I already mentioned, and the new style knuckle bushings, as you can see there installed in the pictures.
I'm still having problems with my rear alignment- toe keeps changing, I'm going to check everything else in the rear suspension real good AGAIN, then align it, then see what happens.
But I am going to replace ALL the bushing front and rear and solid cradle bushings in the near future when I buy the Hammerhead differential. Like I said, I wasn't down grading your products, and to replace them at no charge shows BMR suspension cares about there products, yes it was my fault for not using the correct grease, that ruined the toe link bushings, so that's why I said I appreciate your help. I'll keep informed on how I make out and what the problem is.
Did you replace the toe rod bushings with new ones we sent out to you? If not I would do that because the old poly-urethane bushings are compromised due to the incorrect grease being used. If you have already replaced the toe rod bushings with the new ones I sent out to you than there has to be something else going on.

I know you weren't down grading us or our products at all I just wanted to clarify a few points that were brought up in the thread so the whole picture was shown to people viewing it. Keep me informed of what you come up with and I will help you out in any way we can.
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Old 10-03-2013, 07:41 PM   #18
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Did you replace the toe rod bushings with new ones we sent out to you? If not I would do that because the old poly-urethane bushings are compromised due to the incorrect grease being used. If you have already replaced the toe rod bushings with the new ones I sent out to you than there has to be something else going on.

I know you weren't down grading us or our products at all I just wanted to clarify a few points that were brought up in the thread so the whole picture was shown to people viewing it. Keep me informed of what you come up with and I will help you out in any way we can.
I had to take the toe links off and put the stock toe links back on, the bushings were really soft and compromised especially from the petroleum based grease and the heat (over 90 degree's, ambient temps) the car was shifting to the right and left when laying on it and especially when down shifting, so as I was lifting it on the lift to check it I noticed the left rear wheel shifted a little toooo much, so I checked the side the side movement and there was was approx 1/4'' or more of movement, that's when I took them off and put the stock links on (my daily driver for now) then examined the toe links and noticed the damage.
When I replaced the trailing arm bushings with the new style bushings and pins is when I noticed the damage to the old style bushings and pins.
The car never felt better with all the new bushings after aligned. It wasn't until I greased them maybe a little too much with the SuperLube is when I started having the toe issue problems. I think I broke the rule that more is not always better!
For now I plan on trying it for a while maybe take all the bushings back out and inspect them, clean them up, install them and align it and see how it goes. Then in the future replace them all, front and rear and stronger control arms etc..
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:06 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by 10 2SS/RS 6M View Post
I had to take the toe links off and put the stock toe links back on, the bushings were really soft and compromised especially from the petroleum based grease and the heat (over 90 degree's, ambient temps) the car was shifting to the right and left when laying on it and especially when down shifting, so as I was lifting it on the lift to check it I noticed the left rear wheel shifted a little toooo much, so I checked the side the side movement and there was was approx 1/4'' or more of movement, that's when I took them off and put the stock links on (my daily driver for now) then examined the toe links and noticed the damage.
When I replaced the trailing arm bushings with the new style bushings and pins is when I noticed the damage to the old style bushings and pins.
The car never felt better with all the new bushings after aligned. It wasn't until I greased them maybe a little too much with the SuperLube is when I started having the toe issue problems. I think I broke the rule that more is not always better!
For now I plan on trying it for a while maybe take all the bushings back out and inspect them, clean them up, install them and align it and see how it goes. Then in the future replace them all, front and rear and stronger control arms etc..
I am not surprised to see that much movement in the poly-urethane bushings since they were installed for quite a while and the wrong grease was being used. It is unfortunate but poly-urethane is pretty sensitive to the grease used to lubricate it and if the wrong grease is used for an extended period of time it will soften the bushings up and the tolerance between the inner sleeve and the bushings themselves will increase.

If you put all the brand new bushings in that I sent you (trailing arms, outer trailing arms, and toe rods) and still had some play back there the issues is going to be somewhere else. I would definitely dig into it a little further and see what you come up with. It is virtually impossible to over grease them because the will only take up as much room as physically available and the rest will either shoot out the sides of the bushing or back out the zerk fitting.

If you dig in deeper and find out what is going let me know. I am thinking that there is something that might be being over looked.
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:58 PM   #20
10 2SS/RS 6M
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Sales View Post
I am not surprised to see that much movement in the poly-urethane bushings since they were installed for quite a while and the wrong grease was being used. It is unfortunate but poly-urethane is pretty sensitive to the grease used to lubricate it and if the wrong grease is used for an extended period of time it will soften the bushings up and the tolerance between the inner sleeve and the bushings themselves will increase.

If you put all the brand new bushings in that I sent you (trailing arms, outer trailing arms, and toe rods) and still had some play back there the issues is going to be somewhere else. I would definitely dig into it a little further and see what you come up with. It is virtually impossible to over grease them because the will only take up as much room as physically available and the rest will either shoot out the sides of the bushing or back out the zerk fitting.




If you dig in deeper and find out what is going let me know. I am thinking that there is something that might be being over looked.

All the new bushings are installed and greased with the installation lube, there was NO movement once new bushings were installed, it was after I greased them is when I started having the toe issues, and still no movement.
I did notice some of the grease working it's way out after a couple days or so after I greased them that is when I started having the toe problems, there was also no movement either then, if It starts to happen again I'm really going to start digging deeper, but it all looks good.
I want to mount a camera under there to see what's happening if it does it again, due to it only happening when there's a load= forward acceleration or down shifting. I will definitely let you know if the problem persist and find out what is causing it if it starts happening again, thanks.
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SLP- long tube headers, hi flow cats w/full SLP 3'' PowerFlo exhaust incl/X-pipe, 160 degree stat, SLP Blackwing CAI. Dyno tuned by ECS-407/409RWHP&TQ. BMR- trailing arms w/poly knuckle bushings, toe links, cradle bushings and differential bushings. Hurst short throw shifter, DSS- level 4 axles, DSS- aluminum driveshaft, Pfadt- sport swaybars w/HD adjustable links. Monster LT1-S twin, clutch, Prothane motor mounts. Best 1/4 mile so far- 12:70ET @ 112.24 MPH w/ 2.06 60'.
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Old 10-04-2013, 02:53 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by 10 2SS/RS 6M View Post
All the new bushings are installed and greased with the installation lube, there was NO movement once new bushings were installed, it was after I greased them is when I started having the toe issues, and still no movement.
I did notice some of the grease working it's way out after a couple days or so after I greased them that is when I started having the toe problems, there was also no movement either then, if It starts to happen again I'm really going to start digging deeper, but it all looks good.
I want to mount a camera under there to see what's happening if it does it again, due to it only happening when there's a load= forward acceleration or down shifting. I will definitely let you know if the problem persist and find out what is causing it if it starts happening again, thanks.
Definitely keep me updated and we will work to get everything figured out so you are happy with everything.
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:56 PM   #22
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Definitely keep me updated and we will work to get everything figured out so you are happy with everything.
I did find what was causing the severe toe movement on the rear wheels.
One- Was my fought, before I put the wheels back on I always torque the toe rod bolts on the knuckle side first, but while I was greasing that bushing (with wheels on) it wasn't taking any grease at all, so I loosened the bolt and out came the grease, but I never went back and re-torqued the bolt!
Two- So while I was checking things out back there I also noticed a bit (no, a lot!) of lower control arm movement. I'm sure the 1 1/2'' thick PFADT Race Engineering sway bar don't help with the flimsy stock control arms, so since I stopped the violent movement on the left rear wheel I'm going to replace the stock lower control arms with your TCA028's lower control arms (they look strong!), I should notice a difference with them. The uppers control arms and bushings are next, just need to do a little at a time right now.
Thanks for the help, EVERYONE.
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SLP- long tube headers, hi flow cats w/full SLP 3'' PowerFlo exhaust incl/X-pipe, 160 degree stat, SLP Blackwing CAI. Dyno tuned by ECS-407/409RWHP&TQ. BMR- trailing arms w/poly knuckle bushings, toe links, cradle bushings and differential bushings. Hurst short throw shifter, DSS- level 4 axles, DSS- aluminum driveshaft, Pfadt- sport swaybars w/HD adjustable links. Monster LT1-S twin, clutch, Prothane motor mounts. Best 1/4 mile so far- 12:70ET @ 112.24 MPH w/ 2.06 60'.
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:35 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10 2SS/RS 6M View Post
I did find what was causing the severe toe movement on the rear wheels.
One- Was my fought, before I put the wheels back on I always torque the toe rod bolts on the knuckle side first, but while I was greasing that bushing (with wheels on) it wasn't taking any grease at all, so I loosened the bolt and out came the grease, but I never went back and re-torqued the bolt!
Two- So while I was checking things out back there I also noticed a bit (no, a lot!) of lower control arm movement. I'm sure the 1 1/2'' thick PFADT Race Engineering sway bar don't help with the flimsy stock control arms, so since I stopped the violent movement on the left rear wheel I'm going to replace the stock lower control arms with your TCA028's lower control arms (they look strong!), I should notice a difference with them. The uppers control arms and bushings are next, just need to do a little at a time right now.
Thanks for the help, EVERYONE.
Our BMR non-adjustable lower control arms (TCA028) are definitely much beefier and stronger than the factory lower control arms and will provide considerably more stability in the rear suspension. When you are ready for the parts let us know and we will make sure we get you taken care of.
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