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Old 10-01-2013, 06:48 PM   #1
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brake pad swap

Just finished up a track weekend at Road Atlanta with Hawk DTC 30 pads (front)... much improved braking. No significant decrease in braking from the start of the sessions to the end (30 minutes).

Now it is time to swap back to the Hawk street pad, so looking for any advice from those that are pros at this. Hoping to try it without removing the calipers, so if someone has been doing this, please give me some insight.

This was also the first time out with the Michelin Super Sports....what a great tire. Highly recommend for anyone who is looking for a street/track tire. Expensive, but worth every penny coming down the hill to turn 12!

Thanks
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:35 AM   #2
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its really easy. just take your time. after the first time you can do it in a few minutes a wheel. who was the group that you ran with at rd atlanta? im hoping to go with nasa in december.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=diy+brake+pad
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:24 AM   #3
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Chin motorsports is the group I run with.
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:57 PM   #4
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pop the pins out
remove pad
push pistons back in slightly if necessary
Lube back of pad and insert pad
Lube pins and insert pins
clean rotor/pad with brake cleaner anywhere you, your fingers, or anything else touched braking surface

If you weren't drinking beer through each step you're doing it wrong.
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:02 PM   #5
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I had understood that it's not a good idea to swap pad types without turning the rotors, because the residual material from the previous pad is still on the disk and prevents proper braking with the new pad.

But I've also heard that you can do just what you're doing- swap in track pads at the track, then swap back.

Are there any brake gurus out there that could shed some light on which is true?

Thanks
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:07 PM   #6
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Typically if you stick with the same manufacturer their compounds are compatible but it doesn't hurt to ask before purchasing. But yes pad residue from an old pad can cause overheating and poor performance leading to gunked up everything with embedded pad/rotor material.
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:17 PM   #7
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...and you may need to re-bed the pads to the rotors and go through the break in procedure again before the next track day to scrub the rotor and have it ready for action.
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Old 10-02-2013, 03:15 PM   #8
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Always good to brake cleaner and steal wool or sand paper off the old pad and do a proper bed in process on new pads.
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Old 10-02-2013, 03:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
pop the pins out
remove pad
push pistons back in slightly if necessary
Lube back of pad and insert pad
Lube pins and insert pins
clean rotor/pad with brake cleaner anywhere you, your fingers, or anything else touched braking surface

If you weren't drinking beer through each step you're doing it wrong.
Thanks for all of the info...do you have a recomendation for the lube?
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Old 10-02-2013, 05:24 PM   #10
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Outside of being a little noisy, I run my track pads all the time and I believe Jordan from JDP runs the same pad that you are and he runs his on both the street/track.
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Old 10-02-2013, 06:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driser View Post
Thanks for all of the info...do you have a recomendation for the lube?
YES, Permatex® CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant..
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...bricant-detail


Higher temps and it works well for both the street and track.

You can find it on the shelf at Advanced Auto.

T.
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Old 10-03-2013, 08:17 AM   #12
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Thanks.

Yea I can put up with the noise, but it is the dust on the new Forgelines (polished) that I can't handle. They cleaned up easy (thanks to Adams), but even short drives end up with too much dust.
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:19 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by TBone View Post
YES, Permatex® CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant..
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...bricant-detail


Higher temps and it works well for both the street and track.

You can find it on the shelf at Advanced Auto.

T.
Yup thats the best stuff I've ever found as well as longest lasting. Although whoever came up with the purple color should be shot.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:18 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by driser View Post
Thanks.

Yea I can put up with the noise, but it is the dust on the new Forgelines (polished) that I can't handle. They cleaned up easy (thanks to Adams), but even short drives end up with too much dust.
Yup, the dust is the other issue....I make sure my Forgeline's have a good layer of wax on them at all times....then just blow them off with air compressor.
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