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Old 10-03-2013, 08:41 PM   #18
10 2SS/RS 6M
 
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales View Post
Did you replace the toe rod bushings with new ones we sent out to you? If not I would do that because the old poly-urethane bushings are compromised due to the incorrect grease being used. If you have already replaced the toe rod bushings with the new ones I sent out to you than there has to be something else going on.

I know you weren't down grading us or our products at all I just wanted to clarify a few points that were brought up in the thread so the whole picture was shown to people viewing it. Keep me informed of what you come up with and I will help you out in any way we can.
I had to take the toe links off and put the stock toe links back on, the bushings were really soft and compromised especially from the petroleum based grease and the heat (over 90 degree's, ambient temps) the car was shifting to the right and left when laying on it and especially when down shifting, so as I was lifting it on the lift to check it I noticed the left rear wheel shifted a little toooo much, so I checked the side the side movement and there was was approx 1/4'' or more of movement, that's when I took them off and put the stock links on (my daily driver for now) then examined the toe links and noticed the damage.
When I replaced the trailing arm bushings with the new style bushings and pins is when I noticed the damage to the old style bushings and pins.
The car never felt better with all the new bushings after aligned. It wasn't until I greased them maybe a little too much with the SuperLube is when I started having the toe issue problems. I think I broke the rule that more is not always better!
For now I plan on trying it for a while maybe take all the bushings back out and inspect them, clean them up, install them and align it and see how it goes. Then in the future replace them all, front and rear and stronger control arms etc..
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SLP- long tube headers, hi flow cats w/full SLP 3'' PowerFlo exhaust incl/X-pipe, 160 degree stat, SLP Blackwing CAI. Dyno tuned by ECS-407/409RWHP&TQ. BMR- trailing arms w/poly knuckle bushings, toe links, cradle bushings and differential bushings. Hurst short throw shifter, DSS- level 4 axles, DSS- aluminum driveshaft, Pfadt- sport swaybars w/HD adjustable links. Monster LT1-S twin, clutch, Prothane motor mounts. Best 1/4 mile so far- 12:70ET @ 112.24 MPH w/ 2.06 60'.
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:06 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10 2SS/RS 6M View Post
I had to take the toe links off and put the stock toe links back on, the bushings were really soft and compromised especially from the petroleum based grease and the heat (over 90 degree's, ambient temps) the car was shifting to the right and left when laying on it and especially when down shifting, so as I was lifting it on the lift to check it I noticed the left rear wheel shifted a little toooo much, so I checked the side the side movement and there was was approx 1/4'' or more of movement, that's when I took them off and put the stock links on (my daily driver for now) then examined the toe links and noticed the damage.
When I replaced the trailing arm bushings with the new style bushings and pins is when I noticed the damage to the old style bushings and pins.
The car never felt better with all the new bushings after aligned. It wasn't until I greased them maybe a little too much with the SuperLube is when I started having the toe issue problems. I think I broke the rule that more is not always better!
For now I plan on trying it for a while maybe take all the bushings back out and inspect them, clean them up, install them and align it and see how it goes. Then in the future replace them all, front and rear and stronger control arms etc..
I am not surprised to see that much movement in the poly-urethane bushings since they were installed for quite a while and the wrong grease was being used. It is unfortunate but poly-urethane is pretty sensitive to the grease used to lubricate it and if the wrong grease is used for an extended period of time it will soften the bushings up and the tolerance between the inner sleeve and the bushings themselves will increase.

If you put all the brand new bushings in that I sent you (trailing arms, outer trailing arms, and toe rods) and still had some play back there the issues is going to be somewhere else. I would definitely dig into it a little further and see what you come up with. It is virtually impossible to over grease them because the will only take up as much room as physically available and the rest will either shoot out the sides of the bushing or back out the zerk fitting.

If you dig in deeper and find out what is going let me know. I am thinking that there is something that might be being over looked.
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Sales View Post
I am not surprised to see that much movement in the poly-urethane bushings since they were installed for quite a while and the wrong grease was being used. It is unfortunate but poly-urethane is pretty sensitive to the grease used to lubricate it and if the wrong grease is used for an extended period of time it will soften the bushings up and the tolerance between the inner sleeve and the bushings themselves will increase.

If you put all the brand new bushings in that I sent you (trailing arms, outer trailing arms, and toe rods) and still had some play back there the issues is going to be somewhere else. I would definitely dig into it a little further and see what you come up with. It is virtually impossible to over grease them because the will only take up as much room as physically available and the rest will either shoot out the sides of the bushing or back out the zerk fitting.




If you dig in deeper and find out what is going let me know. I am thinking that there is something that might be being over looked.

All the new bushings are installed and greased with the installation lube, there was NO movement once new bushings were installed, it was after I greased them is when I started having the toe issues, and still no movement.
I did notice some of the grease working it's way out after a couple days or so after I greased them that is when I started having the toe problems, there was also no movement either then, if It starts to happen again I'm really going to start digging deeper, but it all looks good.
I want to mount a camera under there to see what's happening if it does it again, due to it only happening when there's a load= forward acceleration or down shifting. I will definitely let you know if the problem persist and find out what is causing it if it starts happening again, thanks.
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SLP- long tube headers, hi flow cats w/full SLP 3'' PowerFlo exhaust incl/X-pipe, 160 degree stat, SLP Blackwing CAI. Dyno tuned by ECS-407/409RWHP&TQ. BMR- trailing arms w/poly knuckle bushings, toe links, cradle bushings and differential bushings. Hurst short throw shifter, DSS- level 4 axles, DSS- aluminum driveshaft, Pfadt- sport swaybars w/HD adjustable links. Monster LT1-S twin, clutch, Prothane motor mounts. Best 1/4 mile so far- 12:70ET @ 112.24 MPH w/ 2.06 60'.
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Old 10-04-2013, 03:53 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by 10 2SS/RS 6M View Post
All the new bushings are installed and greased with the installation lube, there was NO movement once new bushings were installed, it was after I greased them is when I started having the toe issues, and still no movement.
I did notice some of the grease working it's way out after a couple days or so after I greased them that is when I started having the toe problems, there was also no movement either then, if It starts to happen again I'm really going to start digging deeper, but it all looks good.
I want to mount a camera under there to see what's happening if it does it again, due to it only happening when there's a load= forward acceleration or down shifting. I will definitely let you know if the problem persist and find out what is causing it if it starts happening again, thanks.
Definitely keep me updated and we will work to get everything figured out so you are happy with everything.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:56 PM   #22
10 2SS/RS 6M
 
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Definitely keep me updated and we will work to get everything figured out so you are happy with everything.
I did find what was causing the severe toe movement on the rear wheels.
One- Was my fought, before I put the wheels back on I always torque the toe rod bolts on the knuckle side first, but while I was greasing that bushing (with wheels on) it wasn't taking any grease at all, so I loosened the bolt and out came the grease, but I never went back and re-torqued the bolt!
Two- So while I was checking things out back there I also noticed a bit (no, a lot!) of lower control arm movement. I'm sure the 1 1/2'' thick PFADT Race Engineering sway bar don't help with the flimsy stock control arms, so since I stopped the violent movement on the left rear wheel I'm going to replace the stock lower control arms with your TCA028's lower control arms (they look strong!), I should notice a difference with them. The uppers control arms and bushings are next, just need to do a little at a time right now.
Thanks for the help, EVERYONE.
__________________
SLP- long tube headers, hi flow cats w/full SLP 3'' PowerFlo exhaust incl/X-pipe, 160 degree stat, SLP Blackwing CAI. Dyno tuned by ECS-407/409RWHP&TQ. BMR- trailing arms w/poly knuckle bushings, toe links, cradle bushings and differential bushings. Hurst short throw shifter, DSS- level 4 axles, DSS- aluminum driveshaft, Pfadt- sport swaybars w/HD adjustable links. Monster LT1-S twin, clutch, Prothane motor mounts. Best 1/4 mile so far- 12:70ET @ 112.24 MPH w/ 2.06 60'.
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:35 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10 2SS/RS 6M View Post
I did find what was causing the severe toe movement on the rear wheels.
One- Was my fought, before I put the wheels back on I always torque the toe rod bolts on the knuckle side first, but while I was greasing that bushing (with wheels on) it wasn't taking any grease at all, so I loosened the bolt and out came the grease, but I never went back and re-torqued the bolt!
Two- So while I was checking things out back there I also noticed a bit (no, a lot!) of lower control arm movement. I'm sure the 1 1/2'' thick PFADT Race Engineering sway bar don't help with the flimsy stock control arms, so since I stopped the violent movement on the left rear wheel I'm going to replace the stock lower control arms with your TCA028's lower control arms (they look strong!), I should notice a difference with them. The uppers control arms and bushings are next, just need to do a little at a time right now.
Thanks for the help, EVERYONE.
Our BMR non-adjustable lower control arms (TCA028) are definitely much beefier and stronger than the factory lower control arms and will provide considerably more stability in the rear suspension. When you are ready for the parts let us know and we will make sure we get you taken care of.
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