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Old 07-10-2013, 10:33 AM   #1
Hannibal
 
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Tech II Brake Fluid Change Cost

I've panned through the forums but couldn't find exactly what I'm after.

Does anyone have an idea what a tech II brake fluid flush should cost at a dealer? The dealership I typically use has it listed for $140 bucks. This seems high to me.

This is on my 2011 SS with bone stock DOT3 fluid.

Thanks.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:53 PM   #2
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My dealer quoted me the same but it took them about 10 minutes to figure out what i was saying which tells me they will not touch my car.

I did lots of research and learned its not necessary.

I just did a full CTS-V 6 piston caliper conversion with Motul600. I did it the old fashioned way and flushed the system. Went thru 4 pints of motul600 to make sure i got all the old fluid out (minus the small quantity in the ABS module) then took it out and bedded my HPS pads and am sure i cycled the abs system at least 10 times in the process. Then bled all calipers again with another pint of Motul to get the fluid that was in the ABS out.

It seems to have worked out ok. Better than letting a bunch of idiots touch my car. I also plan to flush my fluid again in about a month then again with every oil change.

I do think that if you convert to the "liquid gold" Castrol SRF racing fluid that it is necessary to do the TechII thing. But at over 70 bucks a bottle, i am happy with Motul. Especially after researching it.
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:33 AM   #3
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Thanks for the info.

A friend suggested that I try out the Motive pressure bleeder. I took a look on the interwebs and sure enough, there are many videos of people using this wet pressure method.

The Motive price is about 60 bucks plus whatever fluid I choose. That puts me somewhere in the the 100 dollar area. I'd say that based on past experiences with dealers, I can just buy the Motive and do this on my own.

If anyone has used a Motive pressure bleeder, please let me know what you think of the tool.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:16 AM   #4
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I was quoted $230 by one dealer and $179 by another. So if you are being quoted $140 that sounds pretty cheap to me! I wish I lived closer to your dealer then (assuming that they are competent in doing this procedure correctly).
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:07 AM   #5
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Ive been eyeballing the Motive. I used a Harbor Freight power bleeder. It hooks up to my air compressor and you hook this device to your bleed screws and squeeze the handle. Then, under vacuum the fluid flows into the collector reservoir attached to the squeeze handle. there is also a bottle that you fill with fresh fluid and with an adapter, you simple invert the bottle and set it in the reservoir and as you flush fluid it empties fresh fluid back in.

Same principle as the Motive but uses vacuum and an air compressor. it only cost me 19 bucks.

I will still probably get the Motive as i like the pressure concept better than vacuum. The model you need is 1008. this is for late model GM cars and works with the 5th gen.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Hannibal View Post
Thanks for the info.

A friend suggested that I try out the Motive pressure bleeder. I took a look on the interwebs and sure enough, there are many videos of people using this wet pressure method.

The Motive price is about 60 bucks plus whatever fluid I choose. That puts me somewhere in the the 100 dollar area. I'd say that based on past experiences with dealers, I can just buy the Motive and do this on my own.

If anyone has used a Motive pressure bleeder, please let me know what you think of the tool.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:23 AM   #6
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I have the motive bleeder black label for late model GM. I used it on my 2002 SS and it worked great! Its a great tool for the DIY'er.
And if you are going to order the bleeder I researched and found that they are actually one of the lowest prices I could find for motul 600RBF so you may as well order your new fluid from them too. Id get a little extra too so you have it on hand for later.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:19 PM   #7
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I ordered the Motive GM kit with the 1108 and got the 1118 machined cap on the side. Don't bother with the machined 1118 unit. Nice, but the plastic 1108 works fine, too.

I know a GM trainer that told me gravity bleeding is good enough to flush the ABS and he has (3) MDI units for teaching dealer machanics. He said pressure bleeders sometimes adds air bubbles in the line. I haven't noticed anything, yet, but used a quite a bit of Super Blue when I flushed my system. I only auto-x Solo2 so the minimal amount of residual DOT3 in the ABS is not so much of a concern for me.

I wished Motive made a custom cap for the clutch reservoir. I'm afraid the univeral j-hook cap may slip off the GTO clutch reservoir.

BTW, the MDI is the new wireless replacement for the tech II. Latest update makes it compatible with 2010 Camaros.

Last edited by sting808; 07-11-2013 at 10:20 PM. Reason: info
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Old 07-12-2013, 04:55 PM   #8
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FYI: No amount of bleeding will purge the ABS pump. The ONLY way to purge the pump is to cycle it. You can follow the old school Bull methodology or the Tech II 2010 Corvette Brake Bleed. They will both get the job done.
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BullF-16 View Post
The model you need is 1008. this is for late model GM cars and works with the 5th gen.
I'm assuming that the above is just a typo on the model number. I've found this when searching for the Motive bleeder for the 5th gen Camaro:

Motive Products#715-0108

GM Late Model Car/Truck Power Bleeder
Includes custom fit adapter 715-1108
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:11 AM   #10
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Talking

[QUOTE=JusticePete;6777928]FYI: No amount of bleeding will purge the ABS pump. The ONLY way to purge the pump is to cycle it. You can follow the old school Bull methodology or the Tech II 2010 Corvette Brake Bleed. They will both get the job done.[/QUOE]
That is good advice right there.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:53 AM   #11
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For a total novice what is the order of operation? Bleed, then bed in new pads and cycle ABS pump, then bleed again? Is that right?
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tramtwo View Post
For a total novice what is the order of operation? Bleed, then bed in new pads and cycle ABS pump, then bleed again? Is that right?
Yep.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:23 PM   #13
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Sorry for the dumb question...

For the re-bleeding after the bedding procedure, which caliper or is it all of them? How will I know if I've got the fluid that was in the ABS reservoir out?

Also for the bedding procedure how can I be sure I have forced the ABS system to cycle and force it's reservoir fluid into the system?
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intensifi View Post
Sorry for the dumb question...

For the re-bleeding after the bedding procedure, which caliper or is it all of them? How will I know if I've got the fluid that was in the ABS reservoir out?

Also for the bedding procedure how can I be sure I have forced the ABS system to cycle and force it's reservoir fluid into the system?
The ABS pump doesn't hold much. When you hear and feel the ABS activate you know the pump is cycling. After say 6 cycles you should have SRF in the pump. If you do this on a rainy day, you are home free.When you bleed all four calipers after the brake bedding / ABS pump cycles you are good to go.

FYI: The Tech II Bleed uses the 2010 Corvette program. It cycles the pump and walks the tech around the car for the bleed.
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