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Old 10-02-2013, 08:43 AM   #18
JusticePete
 
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It is straight forward. Do one side at a time so you have a reference point.
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:13 PM   #19
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I'm glad I read this post, because I'm considering doing the lowering springs also, and I would have freaked out if I saw them looking like that after an install. I want to do them myself, but I'm worried I'll run out of patience, or something will go wrong. So I'm considering them, but I don't want to mess up the ride quality. Before I bought my car, I test drove one that had been lowered, and it rode so bad I thought all of them did. So I test drove the one I ended up buying and loved it. So does anyone have any suggestions on springs that will lower my car about an inch without sacrificing ride quality? I don't want it to ride anymore more stiff than it does.
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1chasingspeed View Post
I'm glad I read this post, because I'm considering doing the lowering springs also, and I would have freaked out if I saw them looking like that after an install. I want to do them myself, but I'm worried I'll run out of patience, or something will go wrong. So I'm considering them, but I don't want to mess up the ride quality. Before I bought my car, I test drove one that had been lowered, and it rode so bad I thought all of them did. So I test drove the one I ended up buying and loved it. So does anyone have any suggestions on springs that will lower my car about an inch without sacrificing ride quality? I don't want it to ride anymore more stiff than it does.
Ride quality is subjective. Installation plays a role in ride quality. If the bushings are not timed, ride quality suffers. If you are on after market wheels and lower profile tires, the shorter side wall takes away more ride quality than the lowering coils. Think of the sidewall as a spring. The shorter it is the harsher the ride. Combine a low profile tire, heavier than stock wheel and lowering coils and you'll see a rather significant reduction in ride quality.

If we haven't scared you away our 220032 and 220033 lowering coils are state of the art.




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Old 10-02-2013, 11:10 PM   #21
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I finished my rear springs today . I'm wondering if everybody else unbolted the trailing arms toe rods upper control arms etc . The way that I finished my installation was by leaving both bolts (the one that holds the struts and the one from the lower control arm) loose and then tighten them up once the car was in the ground. Did I do this right or did I mess up big time? I plan on getting the car aligned tomorrow.
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Old 10-02-2013, 11:44 PM   #22
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I finished my rear springs today . I'm wondering if everybody else unbolted the trailing arms toe rods upper control arms etc . The way that I finished my installation was by leaving both bolts (the one that holds the struts and the one from the lower control arm) loose and then tighten them up once the car was in the ground. Did I do this right or did I mess up big time? I plan on getting the car aligned tomorrow.
You did well.

At the alignment shop they will have to loosen the rear camber bolts, the RLCA inner bolts. Ask them to jounce th car several times with those bolts loose. Up front the inner LCA bolts are not part of the alignment, but those bushings are very strong. Ask them to loosen those two bolts, jounce the car and then tighten them.
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Old 10-03-2013, 07:03 AM   #23
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Thank you pete
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Old 10-05-2013, 02:32 PM   #24
Rctreece
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My ride feels about the same as before. Problem is that I went to get a alignment today and shop said that it was to low to get on their rack. I will have to take it somewhere else. The other place said they could do it but said the recommend specs we're going to cause a lot of tire wear so he recommended something else. I guess I will go with his specs???

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Old 10-05-2013, 02:43 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Rctreece View Post
My ride feels about the same as before. Problem is that I went to get it alignment today and shop said that it was to low to get on their rack. I will have to take it somewhere else. The other place said they could do it but said the recommend specs we're going to cause a lot of tire wear so he recommended something else. I guess I will go with his specs???
I hear that all the time as do our clients. We ignore it. Use our Aggressive Street specs. The increase in tire wear is maybe 10%.
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:03 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
I hear that all the time as do our clients. We ignore it. Use our Aggressive Street specs. The increase in tire wear is maybe 10%.
Well I can't use any specs cause I can't find anywhere that will get the car on a rack. I will call the dealer on Monday and see if he can do it
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:16 AM   #27
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Well finally after a extensive search I found firestone in Tueplo MS was able to put it on the rack
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:21 PM   #28
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I just joined, but you this website has helped me alot.

I put 1.4" front and rear BMR lowering springs in last night. I could not figure out why the top washer would not sit down. Must have taken the the in and out 3 time and disassemble and reassemble the strut. I tried to look on the web to see if this was normal, could find anything. Left it and figured I would call Monday morning ask tech. Then I read this post, and now I will sleep tonight. I wish they would tell you that in the install directions. It would have only taken a couple of hours if not for all the screwing around. Thanks for all the insight.
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