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Old 10-22-2013, 03:33 PM   #18
Padre
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Very impressive. My carputer is mainly for tuning and very amateur. Wish I had your mad skillz!

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Old 10-22-2013, 04:10 PM   #19
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I got a reply back from Metra based off the glitched I experienced, they suspect the heater control buttons part, and not the onstar/steering wheel box, and gave me a list of items to verify and reply after work tonight.

Let's hope it's easy as just a flash of the heater controller with different firmware and recover. They also suspect the pink wire between the 44 pin connector and the heater controller as loose. Those guys respond fast!
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:40 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stt816 View Post
nice songs/artists love sound remedy & adventure club
Yesterday on the way home I was streaming Adventure Club from https://soundcloud.com/dubstep in 320Kbit with only 2 dropout/stalls between San Jose and Fremont using my phone's 4G hotspot (Cyanogenmod on a Samsung GS3). I was actually pretty surprised at the connection stability.


Quote:
Very impressive. My carputer is mainly for tuning and very amateur. Wish I had your mad skillz!

Padre
Don't sell yourself short, I did absolutely NOTHING fancy, I used a Metra kit, and all off the shelf PC stuff to slapp this thing together. Anyone can do it, it's just a matter of getting familiar with all the car pc hardware that's available like cases, power supplies, and USB devices. Only 1 software program to learn, the front end software, which in my case is Driveline.
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:45 AM   #21
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Update on the Metra glitch, after force flashing the Metra boxes, I installed them last night and they worked fine then. On the way to work the DIC screen glitches again, and the Speedo and Tach glitches, then recovered for the rest of the drive.

The carpc played fine the whole time, so I will replace the Metra buttons and LCD parts tonight. I have a version 1.1 firmware heater controls buttons from an older Metra kit where only the green color of the RGB screen led works.

-Robert
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:53 PM   #22
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I'll buy your old my link how much??
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:15 PM   #23
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I'll buy your old my link how much??
He said he's not selling it.
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:06 AM   #24
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Nice work. Very cool setup. I like everything except for the need to use the Metra kit. That kit is notorious for LEDs going out in the display. Metra support is quick to respond but the only response they give for LED display going out is to flash the firmware (which isn't the problem) or replace the entire kit (which is generally out of warranty when the LED display goes dark).

Would be nice if there was a way to make your car PC handle all the HVAC controls and then have a custom dash kit made that looks better than Metra.
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Old 10-25-2013, 02:57 PM   #25
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Yes, that's exactly the response I got from Metra. First I flashed both parts, and then when I asked if the sell replacement parts they said No, buy a new kit. I already have 2 bad kits now. Both out of warrantee.

-Robert
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Old 10-26-2013, 01:23 PM   #26
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I would love to have the info on how to tap into the OEM backup camera, getting ready to install a Kenwood DNX890HD and would love to display the camera on the mirror and the head unit.
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Old 10-26-2013, 03:46 PM   #27
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I'm sure it's easy enough once you find out which pins the video + and - go to. There are guys on this forum who had their mirror monitor relocated to their aftermarket head unit, so you just have to find out which connector and pin numbers, then leave them wired and tee in.
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Old 10-26-2013, 10:00 PM   #28
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Today I worked on getting the door speakers off the stock wires through the doors. I had detected some kind of quiet buzz from the tweeters when everything is off, and suspect the factory wiring is picking up noise from the factory amp. Currently the door speakers were tapped in to the a factory amp speaker out.

So goal is to first find a way to drill the door and door jamb for wires, and go with solder connections on the speakers instead of theose spade lugs that tend to vibrate and make poor connections over time.

I found a place to drill for door speaker wire passthrough. The wires don't get pinched, but I had to drill through 2 layers of metal, and could only get 1 grommet on:


I had to wrap electrical tape around 6 inches of the wire on the door jam side of the wire, then fish it through. It wedged inside the grommet pretty tight, and the tape is thick where the wire contacts the inner metal panel, about 1/4 inch back. The exit side is smooth, but I am going to find a bigger grommet for the oval pass through. I could also seal the holes with RTV, but I want to wait a year and see how robust the flexing of this wire is over time, and replace it if necessary.
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Old 10-27-2013, 01:10 AM   #29
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I'm a total fan, great job.
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Old 10-27-2013, 04:37 PM   #30
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While I had the door apart, I decided I woud do a little pimpage. I decided I wanted LED Speaker Glow Rings. I drew up some rings in Corel Draw for maximum material utilization, which meant the rings had to be drawn into 1/3 ring.


Next I laser cut the ring parts out of .011" cast acrylic. The laser cut this material in under 5 minutes.


Here are the parts to do the job. 5mm Aqua Green LED's, 470 ohm resistors, the acrylic parts, and I used 18awg zip chord:


I glued the bottom layer together, then glued the top layer on, rotated 60 degrees to overlap the splices, while aligning the LED holes. Next I sanded the rings to frost them and diffuse the light:


I pressed the LED's onto the slots, and soldered a 470 ohm resistor to each LED's positive lead. Wired in parallel, then tested OK with a 9v battery:


I glued the LED ring inside the door panel speaker grill area with contact cement. It was a snug fit, and contact cement is kind of rubbery so it should not vibrate out. I spliced into the Ambient Lighting connector, soldered, taped, and ty-wrapped. Tested operational:


After putting everything back together, I tested the glow, and it is slightly visible in daylight. Will check it out tonight and see how I like it. If too bright, I will add another 470 ohm resistor in series with 1 leg of the power wire. Right now I calculate that at 15 volts and 470 ohms, I am driving them at 31 milliamps. At 12 volts that goes down to 25 mA and adding another resistor will bring them down to 12-15mA each.
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:10 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rray View Post
While I had the door apart, I decided I woud do a little pimpage. I decided I wanted LED Speaker Glow Rings. I drew up some rings in Corel Draw for maximum material utilization, which meant the rings had to be drawn into 1/3 ring.


Next I laser cut the ring parts out of .011" cast acrylic. The laser cut this material in under 5 minutes.


Here are the parts to do the job. 5mm Aqua Green LED's, 470 ohm resistors, the acrylic parts, and I used 18awg zip chord:


I glued the bottom layer together, then glued the top layer on, rotated 60 degrees to overlap the splices, while aligning the LED holes. Next I sanded the rings to frost them and diffuse the light:


I pressed the LED's onto the slots, and soldered a 470 ohm resistor to each LED's positive lead. Wired in parallel, then tested OK with a 9v battery:


I glued the LED ring inside the door panel speaker grill area with contact cement. It was a snug fit, and contact cement is kind of rubbery so it should not vibrate out. I spliced into the Ambient Lighting connector, soldered, taped, and ty-wrapped. Tested operational:


After putting everything back together, I tested the glow, and it is slightly visible in daylight. Will check it out tonight and see how I like it. If too bright, I will add another 470 ohm resistor in series with 1 leg of the power wire. Right now I calculate that at 15 volts and 470 ohms, I am driving them at 31 milliamps. At 12 volts that goes down to 25 mA and adding another resistor will bring them down to 12-15mA each.
You should be doing this stuff for a living my friend. Rest job once again, would be cool if you could make the lights pulse to the bass if you listened to music with a lot of bass.
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Old 11-03-2013, 12:16 PM   #32
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Rray how much would you sell this kit if some would ask you to build one for them
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:18 PM   #33
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I did a little more work on the carpc this weekend. Over the past month I was working on the random BCM glitches that came up, but they all worked themselves out after a few repeated flashes of the Metra heater and onstar modules.

So the number one issue was the USB port is not so accessable, and it was time to place a USB port on the console.

I laser cut an Acrylic cup holder glow ring for the console:


Between the cups I added a USB port and a Touchscreen Stylus, and up front I added a place to keep my sun glasses:


I used the same Aqua Green LED's that I used for the speaker glow ring:


I made a cold boot to music playing video, which shows about 30 seconds from Ignition Switch On till Music Playing, about the same as the Mylink Navcom had. Ignore the sound as my phone could not begin to deal with the bass response:
http://youtu.be/k_QIt-K6LVg
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Last edited by rray; 11-30-2013 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:22 PM   #34
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Love what you did with the carpc...any chance you can make a few of these...?
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