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Camaro V6 LLT Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 10-16-2013, 02:06 PM   #101
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Great news, glad everything is being worked out.
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:22 AM   #102
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I had been reading this thread with my fingers crossed for the OP. I am glad GM finally replaced the motor, but I don't think the process should have been this difficult on mostly stock motor.

My LLT motor failed 2 years ago, and despite the mods I had, GM took a couple days to determine a warranty rebuild.

I sincerely hope GM is more efficient in future claims from other owners of the LLT. Glad you got taken care of man
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:11 AM   #103
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I had been reading this thread with my fingers crossed for the OP. I am glad GM finally replaced the motor, but I don't think the process should have been this difficult on mostly stock motor.

My LLT motor failed 2 years ago, and despite the mods I had, GM took a couple days to determine a warranty rebuild.

I sincerely hope GM is more efficient in future claims from other owners of the LLT. Glad you got taken care of man
I remember that...
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:09 PM   #104
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Great news! So is it possible that the oil pressure is the culprit on some of the cars that had engine failures. Is it possible because the ring gap was letting in oil into the cylinders causing not enough pressure to oil the timing chain properly. Just a theory.
No, it doesn't operate like that. The rings should have been 180 deg. out when assembled. The oil is pumped through passages and lubricates bearings. It drains back down to the oil pan where the oil pumps it through the engine again. The oil is not pressurized at the bottom of the rings. Now I could see exhaust going past the rings into the pan pressurizing the crankcase and pushing even more oil vapor into the intake. If it had a catch can, you would see it.
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:36 AM   #105
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No, it doesn't operate like that. The rings should have been 180 deg. out when assembled. The oil is pumped through passages and lubricates bearings. It drains back down to the oil pan where the oil pumps it through the engine again. The oil is not pressurized at the bottom of the rings. Now I could see exhaust going past the rings into the pan pressurizing the crankcase and pushing even more oil vapor into the intake. If it had a catch can, you would see it.
Yeh...but if the ring gaps are aligned and not 180 deg. out, there could be oil seepage into the cylinders accounting for oil loss and not enough for proper chain lube.
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Old 10-27-2013, 01:13 PM   #106
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I was addressing your prior post in that it would not affect oil pressure as oil pressure is determined by metering flow, viscosity . In other words, It is determined by the clearances and passage ways, how well the oil flows, and the oil pump.
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Old 10-29-2013, 03:12 PM   #107
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Crazy but I am SO GLAD that it has worked out. Any more news about the car being completely fixed now?

I'm going to check my oil when I get home!
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:09 AM   #108
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I'm hoping everything has been fixed?

On a related note... that weird vibration sound... I get something like that on deceleration only, and only right before idle. At a stoplight I'll roll to a stop, put in in neutral and when the engine passes through the 1100 range down to idle I get that heat shield vibration noise. Been there a while, should I be worried? I haven't noticed any oil issues. Taking it in for service tomorrow so I'll ask the tech as well, but I've read a few of these threads and now I'm paranoid...
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:47 AM   #109
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I'm hoping everything has been fixed?

On a related note... that weird vibration sound... I get something like that on deceleration only, and only right before idle. At a stoplight I'll roll to a stop, put in in neutral and when the engine passes through the 1100 range down to idle I get that heat shield vibration noise. Been there a while, should I be worried? I haven't noticed any oil issues. Taking it in for service tomorrow so I'll ask the tech as well, but I've read a few of these threads and now I'm paranoid...
Hopefully everything is fine. Maybe flat out tell him them you are concerned it could be a rod bearing and if they dismiss it and then if (knock on wood) all goes bad in the future, hopefully they have made note of your concern and a warranty claim will go a bit smoother than my experience

But hey....Funny you just posed this question tonight about whether all went well. As it turned out it was all sorts of delays to get the car back and I just got it tonight!!!. It was pretty cool to get this 2 page invoice listing all the parts and labor with NC (no charge) on each one. I just had to sign and drive. No cost.

I am extremely happy right now but just for the sake of wrapping up this thread...

I have been without the car for 6 weeks. They started putting in the engine 3 weeks ago.

Week 1 - They were hoping to be done by the end of week one but lost their little tool for removing the injectors so that took a couple days for them to get it ordered an in. Then it was time to use the tool again to put the injectors back in. Apparently it is small and it was lost/misplaced so they had to order another one.

Week 2 - They were hoping to be done by then end of week 2 but the coolant was leaking from the thermostat housing. They replaced the gasket and still had issues. They were going to take a look at the one on the old engine and see if they could salvage that off it and if that didn't work they were going to get a new housing.

Week 3 - They fired it up again and heard noises from the transmission. The first time the manager had thought that the throw out bearing was put in the wrong way and then a few days later he said it was the pressure plate. But whatever it was they had bought a new one since it was damaged.

Then finally this morning there was another delay as he needed to charge the AC.

Overall the engine sound fantastic, well balanced, smooth running and not a single leak. To be nit picky here are the few things I have noticed:

1) A bit of antifreeze smell in the engine. This could be from the leak that was in week 2 and it is still burning off. There are no leaks on the garage floor so I am not too concerned but am going to keep my eye on the level.

2) The analog gauge is indicating about 215 degrees running temperature. The older engine was about 205. Hopefully this is not related to the coolant smell.

3) The engine turns over a bit slower but this could be due to the battery sitting around for 6 weeks and maybe it is not fully charged. Plus it is now 10 degrees cooler out now that Fall is kicking in.

4) When the car is at idle it sounds smooth when sitting inside and is running at about 800 RPM. The old engine was about 850 RPM. However outside in the rear with the new engine it sounds like it is missing every once in awhile. But inside it is fine and it accelerates perfectly. Just an oddity.

6) The V6 LLT 1 second injector click, click, click is a bit quieter.

Of course tomorrow we are in for some morning rain and wind so I probably won't drive until Sunday. So I guess I will just have to ogle it in the garage all day. Also I guess I will have to read up on the different theories of breaking in an engine.

Also for fun tonight I installed an Elite catch can that I bought about 3 weeks ago. That was my treat to myself when I heard this was going to be covered under warranty for sure.
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Old 11-04-2013, 06:20 PM   #110
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What would be the correct oil pressure for a v6 at operation temperature at idle. Mine is runnning at 30 at idle" warm. Goes up when throttle increases. Checked my oil today it was between the hash marks. I only have 10.000 miles and yes all service up to date by GM dealers
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:00 AM   #111
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What would be the correct oil pressure for a v6 at operation temperature at idle. Mine is runnning at 30 at idle" warm. Goes up when throttle increases. Checked my oil today it was between the hash marks. I only have 10.000 miles and yes all service up to date by GM dealers
Mine is 30 at startup and then as I am driving it goes up to 65 to 70 PSI
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:52 AM   #112
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What would be the correct oil pressure for a v6 at operation temperature at idle. Mine is runnning at 30 at idle" warm. Goes up when throttle increases. Checked my oil today it was between the hash marks. I only have 10.000 miles and yes all service up to date by GM dealers
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Mine is 30 at startup and then as I am driving it goes up to 65 to 70 PSI

Correct and normal.
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