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Old 11-10-2013, 01:03 AM   #18
PieNsky

 
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Taking it back to the top.
With winter coming upon us, if anyone has a chirp in the blower motor, it is going out and you will need to replace it soon.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:38 PM   #19
TooCool5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PieNsky View Post
Taking it back to the top.
With winter coming upon us, if anyone has a chirp in the blower motor, it is going out and you will need to replace it soon.
What will these engineers think of next, a blower motor molded in.

Must be cost savings? 3 screws saved and labor?
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:34 PM   #20
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PieNsky, thanks for the write up....no problems as of yet but I'll bookmark this thread just in case.
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:39 PM   #21
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Can someone take (and post) a picture of the motor after it has been replaced with this DIY? The last picture still looks like an "in progress" one.

Thanks!
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Old 02-27-2015, 06:52 AM   #22
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Update for anyone doing this on a newer model. I went to do the same on my 2012 last night.

The two screws that hold the blower cover on have been replaced with plastic injection rivets (I'm sure there's an actual name, but I don't know it). So, getting that off requires the destruction of the column of plastic connecting the cover to the base.

I erroneously just assumed they were plastic screws that had been intentionally stripped and that I could drill out the center of them. After that (and some other ideas) failed, I eventually drilled out most of the column. Couldn't reuse those spots screw connections, obviously. Unfortunately, this means that the best screw location for holding the cover on is unavailable. The available two do not do quite as good a job of keeping the small duct from the cover fully flush with the inlet to the rest of the assembly.

Learning that took the 1-1.5 hour job to a 2-3 hour job.

Since I already had my drill out, I also created a set of perforation holes all the way around the circular guide for cutting. I'd found the razor blade situation frustrating and decided that just connecting the dots would be easier. Not sure it's a preferred method, but it seemed to work.

Future replacements (let's face it, they'll happen) should take 30-45 minutes, tops...
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