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Dragstrip and Launch Techniques Discussion 1/4 mile, 1/8 mile, launch discussions.

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Old 10-16-2013, 08:48 PM   #76
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Weight reduction

Has anyone tried to take the door bars out and if so was it hard to do?
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:49 PM   #77
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No, but the doors are very heavy. Certainly something to look into - I'd like to see one pulled apart
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:58 AM   #78
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Question how can we make these cars lose some weight?

lighter weight wheels is the only thing i can think of besides little things like a light weight battery.. what do you guys think and have done?
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:35 PM   #79
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See the threads below:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178832

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170965
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:44 PM   #80
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What he said
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Old 11-08-2013, 09:55 AM   #81
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The door guards are there for crash safety protection. The weight loss of removing them is not worth the loss of crash protection. If you remove the right kind of weight (unsprung and unsprung rotating) then you'll actually feel the benefits compared to just removing dead weight.

There are quite a few things you can do without radically cutting or gutting your car. I've done many of them with documentation in my project thread:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45165

My car currently weighs 3,700 lbs and that's with a full tank of gas and a completely stock interior.
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Old 11-08-2013, 11:28 AM   #82
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Doc is that with driver?

I need to weigh mine, I think I can get to 3862 with me in it, full interior minus mats, 1/4 tank. I don't care about a full tank I drag race at 1/4 to 2/3 tank.

I was 3950 with floor mats, junk in the trunk, and 20x9's up front. Also with stock mufflers. I was 3740 w/o driver.

I take out junk and mats, battery cover, -30
18's up front, -22 lbs
Light mufflers, -36
--------------------------
3862 with driver.
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Old 11-08-2013, 09:27 PM   #83
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I can probably give an answer on the stock L99 exhaust and headers. I have all of mine still and can weigh them. I know this, that piece from the headers back to the chrome tips, looks like a giant X is heavy as hell. Just to pick up and move it's a ton. Add the headers to that and I'm sure it's well over 100 pounds. My after market exhaust and headers are much lighter. I'd be curious to know too how much weight difference it is. I've never weighed my car. But I know it's lighter since that "Dead weight" of exhaust is out, forged wheels instead of factory and a few other things out of the car. I would hope I'm below 4000 pounds. I lose a quick 130 pounds at the drags by letting my daughter drive the car. Her 125, me 255. So it's a no-brainer and she's good. She's the one in the sig block lighting up the tires.
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:46 PM   #84
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Doc is that with driver?

I need to weigh mine, I think I can get to 3862 with me in it, full interior minus mats, 1/4 tank. I don't care about a full tank I drag race at 1/4 to 2/3 tank.

I was 3950 with floor mats, junk in the trunk, and 20x9's up front. Also with stock mufflers. I was 3740 w/o driver.

I take out junk and mats, battery cover, -30
18's up front, -22 lbs
Light mufflers, -36
--------------------------
3862 with driver.
No, that's without driver. If I run with a 1/4 tank of gas I'm at about 3,615 lbs without driver.
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:29 AM   #85
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Me before going 18's up front, lighter mufflers out back, and 25-30 lbs of removable weight in the form of mats, my travel junk, trunk cover and tire inflator:



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Old 11-11-2013, 07:49 PM   #86
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took rear bumper out this week end
Trying to figure out brackets for my Kirkey front seats
Does anyone know rear firewall thickness for aluminum want to leave back seat out DC ?tosparenon
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:33 AM   #87
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.024 steel or .032 aluminum for nhra
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:34 PM   #88
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.024 steel or .032 aluminum for nhra
Thank you as always ,,,, Cut it and never look back
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:47 PM   #89
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??

Very nice list
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:38 PM   #90
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3/8 Tank of gas, still making progress, but most of the easy stuff is gone. Car still has a/c, interior, stereo, etc.

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Old 02-27-2014, 07:42 PM   #91
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My dream weight!
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:47 PM   #92
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short term goal is 3200 with a/c. long term goal... will take more money then I make. lol
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:19 AM   #93
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3/8 Tank of gas, still making progress, but most of the easy stuff is gone. Car still has a/c, interior, stereo, etc.

I can't really read that for some reason but...is that 3360?
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:09 AM   #94
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Let me throw this at you guy's. Coming from a circle track world, and no I'm not making any comparison's but acceleration is acceleration. Why would you guy's not spend more time trying to get all of the weight out of rotating inertia as possible? Now I get that you cant run a light weight 5" clutch as most would not handle a launch of a car.

But think about it like this, accelerating a car is doing 2 things.... First its accelerating the driveline, motor, tranny, driveshaft, rear, axles, wheel and tires. Lets not forget the heavy brake rotors too. Then is has to accelerate the mass of the car. So when you stop and think about it rotational weight is a huge gain in my line of work. Not only will you lose overall weight with lowering your rotational weight but it will use less energy to move the mass. It's a win/win and more useable Hp in the end.

Make sense? Best way to try this would be make a run with your heavy stock wheels and tires. then make a run with skinnies and light weight wheels. To be fair leave the same (softer if you have slicks) so the 60' is relatively close for a good A/B test. You will be amazed at what you see at the other end. I know a lot of you get this already but the average guy only thinks about how he can lighten up his car by taking a seat or two out. There is more to it in reaping the total gain that is out there and available.
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:07 AM   #95
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Skinnies/front wheel & tires dont count as rotating mass as they arent driven by the engine. The rest is good advice, but reducing driveline weight is slim pickings
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:32 AM   #96
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Skinnies/front wheel & tires dont count as rotating mass as they arent driven by the engine. The rest is good advice, but reducing driveline weight is slim pickings
Wow, that is a good one. Go push a pay loader tire up a hill for 100 feet then try it with a 28" skinny. Let me know what you think. IT TAKES ENERGY TO MOVE OR TURN A MASS OF ANYKIND!
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:37 AM   #97
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Better yet, jack up the front of your car spin the tire with a stock (heavy wheel) VS a light skinny wheel. Which one spins easier. Light bulb yet?
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:27 AM   #98
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Wow, that is a good one. Go push a pay loader tire up a hill for 100 feet then try it with a 28" skinny. Let me know what you think. IT TAKES ENERGY TO MOVE OR TURN A MASS OF ANYKIND!
Yes, that is 100% correct. However as they aren't part of the driveline, you don't see the same reciprocating weight benefits as you do from reducing driveline rotating mass.
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:32 AM   #99
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Yes, that is 100% correct. However as they aren't part of the driveline, you don't see the same reciprocating weight benefits as you do from reducing driveline rotating mass.
Maybe this logic will make more sense. If you have X amount of energy to use and you make a part more efficient the reaction of that is more energy can be applied somewhere else. Meaning more useable power.

Never mind... keep on going as you are.
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:36 AM   #100
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Bfast us L99'ers swap in lighter torque converters. I'd be interested in a lighter driveshaft but they are like $1000 I'm personally not that hardcore about this car.

I've personally raced for 20 years have gone low 9's and crewed for a car that has gone 7.22@200. Definitely look for ways to reduce weight every way possible. And these cars start off so heavy that they initially one of the most inefficient cars to race.
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