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Old 11-11-2013, 10:29 AM   #85
Pro Stock John
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Me before going 18's up front, lighter mufflers out back, and 25-30 lbs of removable weight in the form of mats, my travel junk, trunk cover and tire inflator:



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Old 11-11-2013, 08:49 PM   #86
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took rear bumper out this week end
Trying to figure out brackets for my Kirkey front seats
Does anyone know rear firewall thickness for aluminum want to leave back seat out DC ?tosparenon
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Old 11-12-2013, 01:33 AM   #87
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.024 steel or .032 aluminum for nhra
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:34 PM   #88
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.024 steel or .032 aluminum for nhra
Thank you as always ,,,, Cut it and never look back
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:47 PM   #89
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??

Very nice list
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:38 PM   #90
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3/8 Tank of gas, still making progress, but most of the easy stuff is gone. Car still has a/c, interior, stereo, etc.

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Old 02-27-2014, 08:42 PM   #91
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My dream weight!
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:47 PM   #92
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short term goal is 3200 with a/c. long term goal... will take more money then I make. lol
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:19 AM   #93
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3/8 Tank of gas, still making progress, but most of the easy stuff is gone. Car still has a/c, interior, stereo, etc.

I can't really read that for some reason but...is that 3360?
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:09 AM   #94
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Let me throw this at you guy's. Coming from a circle track world, and no I'm not making any comparison's but acceleration is acceleration. Why would you guy's not spend more time trying to get all of the weight out of rotating inertia as possible? Now I get that you cant run a light weight 5" clutch as most would not handle a launch of a car.

But think about it like this, accelerating a car is doing 2 things.... First its accelerating the driveline, motor, tranny, driveshaft, rear, axles, wheel and tires. Lets not forget the heavy brake rotors too. Then is has to accelerate the mass of the car. So when you stop and think about it rotational weight is a huge gain in my line of work. Not only will you lose overall weight with lowering your rotational weight but it will use less energy to move the mass. It's a win/win and more useable Hp in the end.

Make sense? Best way to try this would be make a run with your heavy stock wheels and tires. then make a run with skinnies and light weight wheels. To be fair leave the same (softer if you have slicks) so the 60' is relatively close for a good A/B test. You will be amazed at what you see at the other end. I know a lot of you get this already but the average guy only thinks about how he can lighten up his car by taking a seat or two out. There is more to it in reaping the total gain that is out there and available.
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:07 AM   #95
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Skinnies/front wheel & tires dont count as rotating mass as they arent driven by the engine. The rest is good advice, but reducing driveline weight is slim pickings
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:32 AM   #96
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Skinnies/front wheel & tires dont count as rotating mass as they arent driven by the engine. The rest is good advice, but reducing driveline weight is slim pickings
Wow, that is a good one. Go push a pay loader tire up a hill for 100 feet then try it with a 28" skinny. Let me know what you think. IT TAKES ENERGY TO MOVE OR TURN A MASS OF ANYKIND!
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:37 AM   #97
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Better yet, jack up the front of your car spin the tire with a stock (heavy wheel) VS a light skinny wheel. Which one spins easier. Light bulb yet?
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:27 AM   #98
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Quote:
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Wow, that is a good one. Go push a pay loader tire up a hill for 100 feet then try it with a 28" skinny. Let me know what you think. IT TAKES ENERGY TO MOVE OR TURN A MASS OF ANYKIND!
Yes, that is 100% correct. However as they aren't part of the driveline, you don't see the same reciprocating weight benefits as you do from reducing driveline rotating mass.
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