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Suspension / Brakes / Chassis All suspension, brakes and chassis discussions.

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Old 12-14-2013, 11:58 AM   #1
chuckclanton
 
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Hotchkis vs LG Motorsports brace?

Anyone with opinions? Don't want to deal with cradle bushings!
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:00 PM   #2
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buy which ever one you can get cheaper.
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:29 PM   #3
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Neither. IMO, the chassis braces are somewhat of a bandaid. Doing a set of solid subframe/cradle bushings will be much more beneficial for eliminating cradle movement.

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Old 12-16-2013, 02:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sales@JDP View Post
Neither. IMO, the chassis braces are somewhat of a bandaid. Doing a set of solid subframe/cradle bushings will be much more beneficial for eliminating cradle movement.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007
I definitely agree with Tyler, you will see very minimal improvement in eliminating rear cradle movement with the chassis braces/stiffeners. Really the only way to control/eliminate the rear cradle movement is with rear cradle inserts or full bushings replacements. We have a couple different offerings depending on your power level and goals with your car. Here is what we offer here at BMR:

BMR rear cradle insert (BK040)


BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024)


BMR solid delrin rear cradle bushings (BK027)
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:37 PM   #5
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I got the pedders cradle bushing inserts on my 11 ss vert and they really make a diference for the price i would definatly recommend over the braces
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Old 12-20-2013, 04:51 PM   #6
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In our opinion we prefer the Hotchkis brace. When it comes to bushings and inserts, the inserts help but are not recommended on high horsepower builds. 2 separate 700hp cars we have done have forced 1 or more inserts to distort and start to come out. These were from 2 different manufactures. Full poly or alum would be the way to go in a high h.p. application. We like using the brace with the solid poly bushings regardless of bushing manufacture.
Lingenfelter runs the Hotchkis brace on there high H.P. Drag cars, that says a lot right there.
Our shop Camaro is running all solid poly bushings throughout the front and rear suspension and a full Hotchkis suspension and it is extremely stiff and solid but maintains a very comfortable street ride. Most clients cant believe it rides so nice.

To Recap:
Stock Car or mild bolt ons, Chassis brace
Moderate to high H.P. use solid bushings and brace
High H.P. track cars, Solid aluminum bushings

Also remember the subframe bushings in the 2010-2011 cars have move movement, GM upgraded the bushings in the late 11 models and from 12 on. The earlier cars benefit huge from solid bushings and or a brace.
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:50 PM   #7
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The dude from Phoenix nailed it!
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2014 GMC CC Z71, 2009 C6 vette (57x/53x at the wheel and less than 3300lbs)
2010 Camaro 2ss/rs---SOLD 4/15/14
-654whp with a few cosmetic things, Pfadt suspension, Vortech, CircleD, GPI ss3 vvt bump stick, gears, stuff in between,18" TSW N'rings for drag duty, 20" Forgestar F14s for street.

Thanks to:
Tony@ dv8motoring
rhino@ Gwatney Chevrolet/GPI Jacksonville AR
TCAudio in Benton AR
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Old 12-21-2013, 08:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sales@JDP View Post
Neither. IMO, the chassis braces are somewhat of a bandaid. Doing a set of solid subframe/cradle bushings will be much more beneficial for eliminating cradle movement.
Took the word right out of my mouth. This car's chassis is incredibly stiff and does not need bracing, it is the movement between the chassis and the rear cradle that is the problem. To me it makes a lot more sense to address the problem head on rather than adding unnecessary weight to an already heavy car.
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Old 12-21-2013, 11:26 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piccione Performance View Post
In our opinion we prefer the Hotchkis brace. When it comes to bushings and inserts, the inserts help but are not recommended on high horsepower builds. 2 separate 700hp cars we have done have forced 1 or more inserts to distort and start to come out. These were from 2 different manufactures. Full poly or alum would be the way to go in a high h.p. application. We like using the brace with the solid poly bushings regardless of bushing manufacture.
Lingenfelter runs the Hotchkis brace on there high H.P. Drag cars, that says a lot right there.
Our shop Camaro is running all solid poly bushings throughout the front and rear suspension and a full Hotchkis suspension and it is extremely stiff and solid but maintains a very comfortable street ride. Most clients cant believe it rides so nice.

To Recap:
Stock Car or mild bolt ons, Chassis brace
Moderate to high H.P. use solid bushings and brace
High H.P. track cars, Solid aluminum bushings

Also remember the subframe bushings in the 2010-2011 cars have move movement, GM upgraded the bushings in the late 11 models and from 12 on. The earlier cars benefit huge from solid bushings and or a brace.
Many would argue that even the stock SS Camaro's fall into the Moderate category and need the solid bushings. A lot of it depends on how you drive it though. If you're just going to granny-gear it, you don't need to do anything. If you're getting aggressive in the corners with a daily driver, then go with the solid bushings.

The brace would be my LAST suspension upgrade. This would come after (in this order) bushings, sway bars, springs/coil-overs, and a track specific wheel/tire setup ("square" for Auto X or Drag radials/skinnys). Even then, I wouldn't do it unless I was competitive Auto-crossing it or running some serious HP at the drag strip (650+)
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Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport sways, Pfadt strut brace

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