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Old 12-13-2013, 10:29 PM   #15
rocketrider807
 
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Drives: 2011 Camaro V6
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^ Thanks for the input!
I have the michelin pilot super sports up front and some old hankook V12s in the rear right now, I think those will also turn in to the Pilot Suport Sports when it's time, I love those tires so far!

I still like the idea of a square setup. I know part of my understeer problem is ME but I also feel like some extra meat up front will really help me get the car to rotate; not easy to do in those tight auto-x tracks!

You really think Bushings>Coil overs? Any particular reason? What about chassis braces? Feel free to PM if this is getting to be much for the posts
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Old 12-14-2013, 01:52 PM   #16
TBone
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There are a lot of things that can cause understeer. I use a chart like this, I have adjustable sway bars, at the track when I am dialing it in.

Name:  Swaybarsettings.JPG
Views: 431
Size:  41.6 KB

It helps when your tires are the same brand at all four corners.

I do think bushings before coilovers because you need a solid foundation to build on. Otherwise you will not get the full benefit of the coilovers. If you have someone near you that has bushings try and hitch a ride to see the difference. Night and day.

T.
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Old 12-15-2013, 03:04 AM   #17
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Drives: 2010 Orange 2SS/RS
Join Date: May 2010
Location: West Palm Beach, fl
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So I'll add mine here too!:

G= Goals: A daily driver that's not swaying left and right like crazy on the highway/road. I have about 412whp 409 wtq atm and getting cams installed in a month or two so it will have some power too.

M=Model: 2010 2SS/RS.

M=Modifications:
22x9 Front Wheels with +30 offset
22x10.5 Rear Wheels with +35 offset
265/35R22XL vredestein Ultrac Sessan Front Tires
315/30R22XL vredestein Ultrac Sessan Rear Tires
Vararam "tuned" air intake
XS Power Long Tubes
3" exhaust x-pipe and mufflers
Magnecore KV8.5 Wires
Self tuned with HP Tuners


B=Budget: debateable, I'd say 3k max but would rather much less considering just a daily not a dragster and such

Thanks much!

Last edited by csorrentini; 12-16-2013 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 12-15-2013, 01:21 PM   #18
Colt
 
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Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LT/RS Victory Red
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Location: Knoxville, TN
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I'm looking for some input as well,

So I'll add mine here too!:

Goals: Since this is my daily driver, I can't drop it too much. The main focus is autocross, 1-2 times a month. I'm not really concerned about autocross classes though, just there to enjoy the time.

Model: 2010 1LT/RS

Modifications:
ACS T2 Splitter (Slightly lower, and sticks out further than the Stock SS Bumper)
Apex Washer Bottle Relocator
Apex Air Scoop
Black Ice-Olator
CAI Cold Air Intake
VMAX Ported Throttle Body
BMR Rear End Links
BMR Rear Sway Bar

Budget: I have around $500 to spend on my suspension before autocross starts up this year. I'd also like some ideas on what I should be upgrading after that $500.

My Thoughts: I'm deciding between getting a front sway bar with end links, or some BMR drop springs. Any input on these two options, or other recommendations are appreciated, thanks!
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Old 12-18-2013, 01:44 PM   #19
csorrentini
 
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Bumps!
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Old 12-18-2013, 02:12 PM   #20
ssmike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csorrentini View Post
So I'll add mine here too!:

G= Goals: A daily driver that's not swaying left and right like crazy on the highway/road. I have about 412whp 409 wtq atm and getting cams installed in a month or two so it will have some power too.

M=Model: 2010 2SS/RS.

M=Modifications:
22x9 Front Wheels with +30 offset
22x10.5 Rear Wheels with +35 offset
265/35R22XL vredestein Ultrac Sessan Front Tires
315/30R22XL vredestein Ultrac Sessan Rear Tires
Vararam "tuned" air intake
XS Power Long Tubes
3" exhaust x-pipe and mufflers
Magnecore KV8.5 Wires
Self tuned with HP Tuners


B=Budget: debateable, I'd say 3k max but would rather much less considering just a daily not a dragster and such

Thanks much!
With a budget of $3k you can do a lot! Start with subframe (cradle) full bushings, trailing arms with outer bushings, toe links, coilovers lowered no more than 1 1/4", sway bars, and a good aggressive street alignment. If you do all the work yourself you should be in budget. Shop around for deals on parts and get some estimates on labor. With a future cam you should be at around 480 rwhp so all these mods will handle that power no problem, you'll have a more aggressive stance, and better overall handling! The coilovers will not sacrifice nuch in ride quality over drop springs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colt View Post
I'm looking for some input as well,

So I'll add mine here too!:

Goals: Since this is my daily driver, I can't drop it too much. The main focus is autocross, 1-2 times a month. I'm not really concerned about autocross classes though, just there to enjoy the time.

Model: 2010 1LT/RS

Modifications:
ACS T2 Splitter (Slightly lower, and sticks out further than the Stock SS Bumper)
Apex Washer Bottle Relocator
Apex Air Scoop
Black Ice-Olator
CAI Cold Air Intake
VMAX Ported Throttle Body
BMR Rear End Links
BMR Rear Sway Bar

Budget: I have around $500 to spend on my suspension before autocross starts up this year. I'd also like some ideas on what I should be upgrading after that $500.

My Thoughts: I'm deciding between getting a front sway bar with end links, or some BMR drop springs. Any input on these two options, or other recommendations are appreciated, thanks!
If you do the work yourself you should be able to do both springs and front sway. If not you can save some money and just use the stock front endlinks. For autocross you definitely need a lower center of gravity and sway bars to reduce front end lean and understeer. Set the rear bar full hard and play with the front to get the desired balance. Full hard on front = more understeer, full soft on front = more oversteer. With the stock wheels and tires you will probably want full hard rear and full soft front sway settings.
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:18 PM   #21
Norm Peterson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketrider807 View Post
Ill contribute:
Goals: Competitive autocross car (E-prepared)/Fun Track day car

Model: V6 LS

Modifications
: BMR Sway Bars, Lowering Springs, 20x8.5 Front Wheels & 20x10 Rear Wheels

Budget: What ever I scrounge together Monthly...so how about this. WANT list w/time line:
20x10 Front Wheels ~ $600+Tires
Coil Overs (BC will do) ~ $1000
CAI: ~$350
Headers (BBK): $700

The parts are in the order that I would purchase, hope to have the first two by the time autocross season starts, the other two will come when they come . Considering jamming bushing kits in before the power mods.
I'm guessing that you mean E-Street Prepared rather than EP. EP is the place for gutted and 10"+ race-slicked Hondas and such that weigh barely half of what your Camaro does.

I'm going to take the other track and recommend the square setup. Mainly it's with autocross in mind, where getting a large heavy car to turn in is more important than being able to add throttle a few feet sooner.

Out on the big track, a square setup is probably less necessary although it (arguably) will allow you to develop as a "momentum driver" - carrying slightly higher midcorner speed and rolling into the throttle more gently than a "point and shoot" style (where a staggered wheel/tire setup compensates somewhat for being more aggressive with the throttle.

For autocross, I'd suggest not running any so-called "race" tunes, as that usually means "drag race" which can be too abrupt for good throttle modulation. IOW, too easy to get wheelspin and tailhappiness as you get into the throttle exiting a turn onto what passes for "straights" at autocross. You do want a tune with any CAI in order to get the most out of the CAI - and to protect the engine against running lean.


Your car and mine run at about the same power to weight ratio, and I'm still experiencing mild push (understeer) on the tighter turns at NJMP (I guess you could call it my "home" track). Fairly heavy understeer is easy to come by at autocross around 180° single-cone pin turns, but it's not bad otherwise. At any rate, 9.5" wide wheels and 255/45 tires just aren't enough any more, and -1.8° (front) camber isn't really enough either but at least it's not entirely horrible.

285/35-20's in Michelin PSS on your 10's is one of two suggestions I'd make, and the 285/35-20 Hankook RS-3 is the other. BTW (full disclosure - I'm currently looking at 285/35-18's in either the PSS or in Hankook's RS-3 on 18x10.5's for next year). The RS-3's are probably a bit grippier in the dry than the PSS, but you pay for that with a shorter tread life and wet performance that's not quite up to the PSS.


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