|12-13-2013, 10:29 PM||#15|
Drives: 2011 Camaro V6
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Reno, NV
^ Thanks for the input!
I have the michelin pilot super sports up front and some old hankook V12s in the rear right now, I think those will also turn in to the Pilot Suport Sports when it's time, I love those tires so far!
I still like the idea of a square setup. I know part of my understeer problem is ME but I also feel like some extra meat up front will really help me get the car to rotate; not easy to do in those tight auto-x tracks!
You really think Bushings>Coil overs? Any particular reason? What about chassis braces? Feel free to PM if this is getting to be much for the posts
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|12-14-2013, 01:52 PM||#16|
Negative Camber Junkie
Drives: 2010 1SS LS3/6MN ABM 1 of 23
Join Date: May 2009
Location: ChiTown, IL
There are a lot of things that can cause understeer. I use a chart like this, I have adjustable sway bars, at the track when I am dialing it in.
It helps when your tires are the same brand at all four corners.
I do think bushings before coilovers because you need a solid foundation to build on. Otherwise you will not get the full benefit of the coilovers. If you have someone near you that has bushings try and hitch a ride to see the difference. Night and day.
"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same.
Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different.
I can't wait for my next Track fix. DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!!
|12-15-2013, 03:04 AM||#17|
Drives: 2010 Orange 2SS/RS
Join Date: May 2010
Location: West Palm Beach, fl
So I'll add mine here too!:
G= Goals: A daily driver that's not swaying left and right like crazy on the highway/road. I have about 412whp 409 wtq atm and getting cams installed in a month or two so it will have some power too.
M=Model: 2010 2SS/RS.
22x9 Front Wheels with +30 offset
22x10.5 Rear Wheels with +35 offset
265/35R22XL vredestein Ultrac Sessan Front Tires
315/30R22XL vredestein Ultrac Sessan Rear Tires
Vararam "tuned" air intake
XS Power Long Tubes
3" exhaust x-pipe and mufflers
Magnecore KV8.5 Wires
Self tuned with HP Tuners
B=Budget: debateable, I'd say 3k max but would rather much less considering just a daily not a dragster and such
Last edited by csorrentini; 12-16-2013 at 10:21 AM.
|12-15-2013, 01:21 PM||#18|
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LT/RS Victory Red
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
I'm looking for some input as well,
So I'll add mine here too!:
Goals: Since this is my daily driver, I can't drop it too much. The main focus is autocross, 1-2 times a month. I'm not really concerned about autocross classes though, just there to enjoy the time.
Model: 2010 1LT/RS
ACS T2 Splitter (Slightly lower, and sticks out further than the Stock SS Bumper)
Apex Washer Bottle Relocator
Apex Air Scoop
CAI Cold Air Intake
VMAX Ported Throttle Body
BMR Rear End Links
BMR Rear Sway Bar
Budget: I have around $500 to spend on my suspension before autocross starts up this year. I'd also like some ideas on what I should be upgrading after that $500.
My Thoughts: I'm deciding between getting a front sway bar with end links, or some BMR drop springs. Any input on these two options, or other recommendations are appreciated, thanks!
|12-18-2013, 02:12 PM||#20|
Missing Big Red
Drives: 2006 Corvette DSOM, '13 Equinox CRT
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Buffalo, NY
Not a Camaro but it works for now!
|12-18-2013, 05:18 PM||#21|
corner barstool sitter
Drives: 08 Mustang GT, 10 Legacy 2.5GT, ...
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Time Zone
I'm going to take the other track and recommend the square setup. Mainly it's with autocross in mind, where getting a large heavy car to turn in is more important than being able to add throttle a few feet sooner.
Out on the big track, a square setup is probably less necessary although it (arguably) will allow you to develop as a "momentum driver" - carrying slightly higher midcorner speed and rolling into the throttle more gently than a "point and shoot" style (where a staggered wheel/tire setup compensates somewhat for being more aggressive with the throttle.
For autocross, I'd suggest not running any so-called "race" tunes, as that usually means "drag race" which can be too abrupt for good throttle modulation. IOW, too easy to get wheelspin and tailhappiness as you get into the throttle exiting a turn onto what passes for "straights" at autocross. You do want a tune with any CAI in order to get the most out of the CAI - and to protect the engine against running lean.
Your car and mine run at about the same power to weight ratio, and I'm still experiencing mild push (understeer) on the tighter turns at NJMP (I guess you could call it my "home" track). Fairly heavy understeer is easy to come by at autocross around 180° single-cone pin turns, but it's not bad otherwise. At any rate, 9.5" wide wheels and 255/45 tires just aren't enough any more, and -1.8° (front) camber isn't really enough either but at least it's not entirely horrible.
285/35-20's in Michelin PSS on your 10's is one of two suggestions I'd make, and the 285/35-20 Hankook RS-3 is the other. BTW (full disclosure - I'm currently looking at 285/35-18's in either the PSS or in Hankook's RS-3 on 18x10.5's for next year). The RS-3's are probably a bit grippier in the dry than the PSS, but you pay for that with a shorter tread life and wet performance that's not quite up to the PSS.