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Old 06-06-2012, 11:19 AM   #15
SSE 4 2SS
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My thoughts on this...

In all but extreme cases, it is to early to tell what affects will be seen related to factory or aftermarket parts.

We have seen evidence of problems with the LCA's with aftermarket end links, but it is still undetermined if this was due to installation or design of the end links or the LCA's.

As with so many products, time is the only true judge.

There will be those that say I told you so, and others that will say I should have listened. And none of us know yet.. Testing is a good thing, but it can't possibly take in all variables...

We've had guys run 600 HP on their factory diffs with no problem, and other that have broken stuff stock. Some 6060's shift great regardless of what's been thrown at them, and others fail on stock power as mine was doing before we started building my car...

What we have here and we all need to remember, is that it is very early in the development stages for this car. I realize they have been out for three years, but in cars driven almost exclusively on the street, that's relatively infantile.

Race cars that are driven 98 percent of the time at WOT are a different animal...

I've not had any problems with my end link tabs, yet a bolt that holds the rear sway bushing mount (aftermarket sways) shot out of my car like a rocket on a 5 mph turn out of my neighborhood.

Where am I going with this... It's always a crap shoot with anything mechanical. The best designed systems can fail, and the worst designed can go forever. No one knows...Granted the averages show that well designed tested items are typically going to hold up and perform as intended, but there are no guarantees.

We all as owner/operators, need to have information available and we need to do our own research.

Granted, manufacturers are the primary source of a lot of information, but they are by no means the only source....

Like finding a builder, or a tuner, or a widget for our cars... we ask around, talk to those that have said part, talk to those in the industry that are not personally involved, talk to other racers etc...

There are two high level schools of thought here, and only time will determine which school is better, or even if one is better than the other...

Chevy vs ford vs Dodge... It's never ending... and we as consumers have to make a choice based on our own personal experiences, knowledge and research.

A member on this forum that is very highly respected by most all other members, recommended a manufacturer for a system on my car, I considered it, and went with a different vendor, why, because my experience had it that the second vendor used a process that in my line of work had proven to be successful... I hope all can see where my ramblings have gone here...
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If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:30 AM   #16
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sorry to resurrect such an old thread but did you ever find the dimensions or machine your own?? i just found myself in the same boat plenty of material and time but no money

and as much as i love pfadt i want to save my money to get their coil overs and sway bars
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:16 AM   #17
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sorry to resurrect such an old thread but did you ever find the dimensions or machine your own?? i just found myself in the same boat plenty of material and time but no money

and as much as i love pfadt i want to save my money to get their coil overs and sway bars

I'm with you man. You can buy a small lathe for the price of the PFADT bushings.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:34 PM   #18
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I'm with you man. You can buy a small lathe for the price of the PFADT bushings.
$300 lathe from harbor freight + $70 in aluminum stock.

$370 solid rear subframe
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:26 AM   #19
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I have personally seen the welds on a subframe cracked. If you want to go solid run a bead around the bushing housing. If you have seen the weld points you should be well aware of what I am talking about. Pete is right
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Old 12-17-2013, 03:04 PM   #20
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I have personally seen the welds on a subframe cracked. If you want to go solid run a bead around the bushing housing. If you have seen the weld points you should be well aware of what I am talking about. Pete is right
I find it hilarious however that Pete, says that they will crack. But then fully says buy my product. The hypocrisy
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Old 12-17-2013, 04:53 PM   #21
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I find it hilarious however that Pete, says that they will crack. But then fully says buy my product. The hypocrisy
One is solid the other is not and allows flex. Thats not hypocrisy its you not understanding the difference in the product lines.
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Old 12-17-2013, 05:06 PM   #22
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One is solid the other is not and allows flex. Thats not hypocrisy its you not understanding the difference in the product lines.
Full bushings (urethane/delrin) versus solid bushings (aluminum)
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Old 12-18-2013, 02:59 PM   #23
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One is solid the other is not and allows flex. Thats not hypocrisy its you not understanding the difference in the product lines.
Thank you for you very informative information about my misunderstanding of product lines between derlin with a aluminum core/ derlin bushing inserts/ full aluminum bushings. My point, was he stated that if the guy himself made them that they would cause a weld to crack. But, he then said that with their product their haven't been any reported cracking yet. Thanks.
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Old 12-18-2013, 03:29 PM   #24
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Since all of the other joints that input loads to the subframe are rubber bushed (stock) or urethane (modified) shock loads to the subframe will not be greater using solid aluminum subframe mounts. At worst you might have some vibration/noise transfer to the main frame but with the links and rear axle housing isolated there shouldn't be much vibration in the subframe to transfer.
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:00 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by driyac View Post
Thank you for you very informative information about my misunderstanding of product lines between derlin with a aluminum core/ derlin bushing inserts/ full aluminum bushings. My point, was he stated that if the guy himself made them that they would cause a weld to crack. But, he then said that with their product their haven't been any reported cracking yet. Thanks.
Wrong again. Pedders only sells poly bushings in 2 durometers. They flex. They have never sold delrin or aluminum. They don't flex. Pete disagrees with the use of solid which he doesn't sell. He recommends poly that he and others sell that flexes. Again, that is not hypocrisy its you not understanding product line differences.

I'm not making a statement either way about the likelihood of cracking. On that I'm neutral.
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:04 PM   #26
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Wrong again. Pedders only sells poly bushings in 2 durometers. They flex. They have never sold delrin or aluminum. They don't flex. Pete disagrees with the use of solid which he doesn't sell. He recommends poly that he and others sell that flexes. Again, that is not hypocrisy its you not understanding product line differences.

I'm not making a statement either way about the likelihood of cracking. On that I'm neutral.
dude OH shit!!!! I didnt realize that was pedders ( seriously dont kill me ) I thought that was pfadt responding and typing the whole time. MY BAD.

But yes you are 100% correct on that part.
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:30 AM   #27
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lol im so confused
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Old 07-21-2014, 04:34 PM   #28
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Still no dimensions?!?!

Last edited by j5ady; 07-21-2014 at 04:35 PM. Reason: Forgot question mark
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