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Old 12-29-2013, 10:43 PM   #15
Roger Stattel
 
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Originally Posted by wakespeak View Post
Do you mean heat the metal around the bushing or the center of the bushing? The fronts are close to the gas tank which makes me a bit nervous. Are you heating from below the cradle in a circular movement around the bushing?
Well after doing it today. I had to heat for like 30 sec And then just evenly heat the exterior of the bushing housing. Front were quick rears took a bit more time. Evenly apply heat while the cradle is under load with socket on top and it will slide downward. I used a brass plumbing fitting to make sure the entire bushing dropped and not just the inner part.
Don't be alarmed if it begins to smoke. Some may be melting but will be fine.
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Old 12-29-2013, 11:47 PM   #16
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^ Yep. Piece of cake once you see how easy it really is - once the factory glue gets hot it stops holding.
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:30 PM   #17
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so you dont have to heat them up so hot the paint burns?
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:34 PM   #18
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No, its actually not hot enough to burn the paint on the cradle. Front ones heated up pretty easy but the larger rear ones took a bit. Once you see the fiberglass casing start to boil out from around the bushing your getting there, start applying pressure to the bushing.
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:13 AM   #19
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thanks
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Old 04-13-2014, 05:08 AM   #20
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looks like from seeing the instructions from BMR to do the upper control arm bushing you need to drop the cradle 3"
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:05 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCunningham View Post
looks like from seeing the instructions from BMR to do the upper control arm bushing you need to drop the cradle 3"
Yeah, it's easier that way, just gives you a little more room to work with. I changed out mine without dropping the cradle at all. It wasn't exactly easy, but I did it!!!
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Old 05-11-2014, 06:10 AM   #22
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Thanks to Bo White

Bo gave me the advise I needed and it really was a piece of cake.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:01 AM   #23
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Your welcome fella, now go get an alignment and enjoy!
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