Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Hines Performance (HPE)
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Technical Camaro Topics > Suspension / Brakes / Chassis

Suspension / Brakes / Chassis All suspension, brakes and chassis discussions.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 12-28-2013, 07:26 PM   #1
Roger Stattel
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro 1ss
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Escondido, Ca
Posts: 138
bmr solid cradle bushings and diff

Hey the job is in progress and the instructions say to pull the whole cradle out? Is there a way to leave the cradle in and still switch them out. Also does the suspension have to be taken out?
Roger Stattel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2013, 07:40 PM   #2
SlowTurtle
 
Drives: camaro turtle
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: somewhere in the south
Posts: 277
drop cradle 1 inch. put socket between bushing and frame. jack cradle until car lifts off jackstands. apply mapp gas torch to bushing hole, trying to heat it as uniformly as possible. wait until bushing pops out. takes 30 minutes for all 4 and suuspension stays.
__________________
This nick no longer in use. Please direct all future pms to 'Dietcoke'
SlowTurtle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2013, 07:48 PM   #3
tanur420
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 335
would that also be adequate clearance to install the trailing arms/toe rod? i cant remember which, but i read one of them needs cradle dropped to install because a bolt wont clear
__________________
tanur420 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2013, 08:23 PM   #4
Roger Stattel
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro 1ss
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Escondido, Ca
Posts: 138
So just take off the 4 main bolts on the cradle and the weight will cause it to drop an inch? And thanks for your help, I figured there would be an easier way than pulling the entire cradle. What size socket did u wedge in there? Is it safe using a torch so close to gas tank?
Roger Stattel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2013, 08:50 PM   #5
Synner


 
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6
Join Date: May 2011
Location: overseas
Posts: 3,549
Quote:
Originally Posted by tanur420 View Post
would that also be adequate clearance to install the trailing arms/toe rod? i cant remember which, but i read one of them needs cradle dropped to install because a bolt wont clear
Lowered not dropped, the process is the same. Remove 2 bolts and loosen the other side, do your work, switch sides and repeat.

You need to undo a fuel pump harness connector and pop the parking brake cables out as well. I had to undo the lower shock bolt as well since the shocks were preventing it from dropping as much as I needed it to. I believe that was all.
Synner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2013, 08:52 PM   #6
Synner


 
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6
Join Date: May 2011
Location: overseas
Posts: 3,549
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Stattel View Post
So just take off the 4 main bolts on the cradle and the weight will cause it to drop an inch? And thanks for your help, I figured there would be an easier way than pulling the entire cradle. What size socket did u wedge in there? Is it safe using a torch so close to gas tank?
Removing all 4 at once while you're underneath it will result in your death if you're not bracing everything with a heavy duty jack. Assuming you also need to remove the shock bolts which I definitely had to. Nothing will be holding your cradle up at that point other than your brake lines. Don't.

Remove 2, loosen 2. Ensure adequate thread engagement to not let it strip and fall on you.
Synner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2013, 09:01 PM   #7
Bo White



 
Bo White's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Summit White 1SS
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 2,941
Your going to have to undo the strut from the lower control arm to get the cradle low enough to do the rear bushings in the cradle. You can get the old rear bushing out but putting the BMR bushing in your going to have to drop it lower than 1". The alignment stud is the problem.
Bo White is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2013, 10:35 PM   #8
SlowTurtle
 
Drives: camaro turtle
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: somewhere in the south
Posts: 277
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
Removing all 4 at once while you're underneath it will result in your death if you're not bracing everything with a heavy duty jack. Assuming you also need to remove the shock bolts which I definitely had to. Nothing will be holding your cradle up at that point other than your brake lines. Don't.

Remove 2, loosen 2. Ensure adequate thread engagement to not let it strip and fall on you.
The shocks will actually hold it up, however I wouldnt recommend loosening all four at once. I removed three and loosened the fourth and just worked in a circle.
__________________
This nick no longer in use. Please direct all future pms to 'Dietcoke'
SlowTurtle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2013, 10:45 PM   #9
Synner


 
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6
Join Date: May 2011
Location: overseas
Posts: 3,549
True, but mine had to come out to get it low enough for the bushings to do in and stockers cut out. At the time I did it no one knew about the heating and socket method, not sure if that changes things.
Synner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2013, 09:54 AM   #10
randy's2012
 
Drives: 2SS/RS, supercharged LS3
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Hamilton Twp. New Jersey
Posts: 56
Just got done last week installing the solid cradle bushings on my 2012 SS. I did like the guys on here said about just the rear frame down one side at a time. It took some work to get the back ones out due to the guide that is part of the frame and goes inside the rear cradle bushing itself. That steel guide that is part of the frame sticks down another 3 inches which made it harder to work the old one out and to get the new one in. But was able to do it no problem just take some time. Changed all four in less then 4 hours from start to finish without removing exhaust or dropping the frame out of the car. Also replaced the springs all the way around at the same time dropping the car 1" (at least I think it is only 1"). Got a 4 wheel alignment and am ready for spring time to roll around.
randy's2012 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2013, 09:59 PM   #11
Roger Stattel
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro 1ss
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Escondido, Ca
Posts: 138
Ok so my subframe bushings were a cake walk doing it that way. Unfortunately I am having trouble getting the rear differential front driver side bushing out. I already drilled out the center using a 2" hole saw so have to continue. All that is left is bushing sleeve. I tried to start using a screwdriver to get it out from back side but am struggling because of the rear diff housing and the angle I have to chisel at. Any suggestions?
Roger Stattel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2013, 10:18 PM   #12
SlowTurtle
 
Drives: camaro turtle
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: somewhere in the south
Posts: 277
sawzall the bushing case in half. once its cut through the bushing will lose all tension and come right out. take care not to butcher your housing in the process
__________________
This nick no longer in use. Please direct all future pms to 'Dietcoke'
SlowTurtle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2013, 10:38 PM   #13
Roger Stattel
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro 1ss
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Escondido, Ca
Posts: 138
I don't know if I trust my self but will have to try that if no other suggestions.
Roger Stattel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2013, 11:15 PM   #14
wakespeak
 
Drives: 2013 2SS LS3/NPP
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 685
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowTurtle View Post
drop cradle 1 inch. put socket between bushing and frame. jack cradle until car lifts off jackstands. apply mapp gas torch to bushing hole, trying to heat it as uniformly as possible. wait until bushing pops out. takes 30 minutes for all 4 and suuspension stays.
Do you mean heat the metal around the bushing or the center of the bushing? The fronts are close to the gas tank which makes me a bit nervous. Are you heating from below the cradle in a circular movement around the bushing?
wakespeak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2013, 11:43 PM   #15
Roger Stattel
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro 1ss
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Escondido, Ca
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by wakespeak View Post
Do you mean heat the metal around the bushing or the center of the bushing? The fronts are close to the gas tank which makes me a bit nervous. Are you heating from below the cradle in a circular movement around the bushing?
Well after doing it today. I had to heat for like 30 sec And then just evenly heat the exterior of the bushing housing. Front were quick rears took a bit more time. Evenly apply heat while the cradle is under load with socket on top and it will slide downward. I used a brass plumbing fitting to make sure the entire bushing dropped and not just the inner part.
Don't be alarmed if it begins to smoke. Some may be melting but will be fine.
Roger Stattel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2013, 12:47 AM   #16
SlowTurtle
 
Drives: camaro turtle
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: somewhere in the south
Posts: 277
^ Yep. Piece of cake once you see how easy it really is - once the factory glue gets hot it stops holding.
__________________
This nick no longer in use. Please direct all future pms to 'Dietcoke'
SlowTurtle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2014, 12:30 AM   #17
JCunningham

 
JCunningham's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 SIM 2SS/RS
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Attica, NY
Posts: 2,024
so you dont have to heat them up so hot the paint burns?
__________________
2012 2SS/RS M6 SIM, Painted Carbon Flash rally stripes, Elite CC, 3.91 gears, New Era ported TB, OTR, and Dyno Tune, Heritage Grill, Night Fury cam, 25%Fluidampr, Melling 296 Oil pump, Katech CR-5 chain, Cloyes LS2 HD tensioner, PAC 1205x springs and Comp Cams trunions. ARH 1 7/8" LT headers w/cats, TWM full Shifter, BMR sways, trailing arms, toe rods, delrin cradle bushings, BK039 rear control bushings, front bushings. Solo Mach-XL exhaust
JCunningham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2014, 12:34 AM   #18
Bo White



 
Bo White's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Summit White 1SS
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 2,941
No, its actually not hot enough to burn the paint on the cradle. Front ones heated up pretty easy but the larger rear ones took a bit. Once you see the fiberglass casing start to boil out from around the bushing your getting there, start applying pressure to the bushing.
Bo White is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2014, 01:13 AM   #19
JCunningham

 
JCunningham's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 SIM 2SS/RS
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Attica, NY
Posts: 2,024
thanks
__________________
2012 2SS/RS M6 SIM, Painted Carbon Flash rally stripes, Elite CC, 3.91 gears, New Era ported TB, OTR, and Dyno Tune, Heritage Grill, Night Fury cam, 25%Fluidampr, Melling 296 Oil pump, Katech CR-5 chain, Cloyes LS2 HD tensioner, PAC 1205x springs and Comp Cams trunions. ARH 1 7/8" LT headers w/cats, TWM full Shifter, BMR sways, trailing arms, toe rods, delrin cradle bushings, BK039 rear control bushings, front bushings. Solo Mach-XL exhaust
JCunningham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2014, 06:08 AM   #20
JCunningham

 
JCunningham's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 SIM 2SS/RS
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Attica, NY
Posts: 2,024
looks like from seeing the instructions from BMR to do the upper control arm bushing you need to drop the cradle 3"
__________________
2012 2SS/RS M6 SIM, Painted Carbon Flash rally stripes, Elite CC, 3.91 gears, New Era ported TB, OTR, and Dyno Tune, Heritage Grill, Night Fury cam, 25%Fluidampr, Melling 296 Oil pump, Katech CR-5 chain, Cloyes LS2 HD tensioner, PAC 1205x springs and Comp Cams trunions. ARH 1 7/8" LT headers w/cats, TWM full Shifter, BMR sways, trailing arms, toe rods, delrin cradle bushings, BK039 rear control bushings, front bushings. Solo Mach-XL exhaust
JCunningham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2014, 11:05 AM   #21
BMR Sales



 
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS R6P
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 2,496
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCunningham View Post
looks like from seeing the instructions from BMR to do the upper control arm bushing you need to drop the cradle 3"
Yeah, it's easier that way, just gives you a little more room to work with. I changed out mine without dropping the cradle at all. It wasn't exactly easy, but I did it!!!
__________________
Keith Kanyuh
5th Gen Camaro Suspension Specialist
keith@bmrsuspension.com
www.bmrsuspension.com
Like us on Facebook!
BMR Sales is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2014, 07:10 AM   #22
2SShowngo

 
2SShowngo's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 black ZL1#456
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 1,216
Thanks to Bo White

Bo gave me the advise I needed and it really was a piece of cake.
Attached Images
   
2SShowngo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2014, 09:01 AM   #23
Bo White



 
Bo White's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Summit White 1SS
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 2,941
Your welcome fella, now go get an alignment and enjoy!
Bo White is online now   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:30 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.