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Old 01-01-2014, 12:34 AM   #18
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No, its actually not hot enough to burn the paint on the cradle. Front ones heated up pretty easy but the larger rear ones took a bit. Once you see the fiberglass casing start to boil out from around the bushing your getting there, start applying pressure to the bushing.
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:13 AM   #19
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thanks
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:08 AM   #20
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looks like from seeing the instructions from BMR to do the upper control arm bushing you need to drop the cradle 3"
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2012 2SS/RS M6 SIM, Painted CarbonFlash rally stripes, Elite CC&CAOS 3.91 gears, dynoed by J&J Speedshop New Era ported TB, CAI intake, Apex Scoop, Heritage Grill, PatG CamMotion cam, 25%Fluidampr, Melling 296 Oil pump, Katech C5-R chain, Cloyes LS2 tensioner, PAC1205x springs and pushrods, Comp Cams trunions. ImprovedRacing oil baffle, crank scraper, Monster Billet release bearing support, 18" remote bleeder, ARH 1 7/8" LT headers w/cats, TWM full Shifter, BMR sways, trailing arms, toe rods, delrin cradle bushings, BK039 rear control bushings, front bushings. Solo Mach-XL exhaust 477hp 466tq
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Old 04-14-2014, 11:05 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCunningham View Post
looks like from seeing the instructions from BMR to do the upper control arm bushing you need to drop the cradle 3"
Yeah, it's easier that way, just gives you a little more room to work with. I changed out mine without dropping the cradle at all. It wasn't exactly easy, but I did it!!!
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:10 AM   #22
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Thanks to Bo White

Bo gave me the advise I needed and it really was a piece of cake.
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:01 AM   #23
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Your welcome fella, now go get an alignment and enjoy!
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