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Old 08-28-2013, 01:10 AM   #451
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Originally Posted by vroomapunk View Post
Moisture can still be an issue, if it cant excape, it also has to do with other gasses/minerals or something that lead to pitting.

Welds would crack because they are the weakest link i assume, and when you wrap, its everything before and after the wrap that gets the hottest (i.e. the welds at the primaries, and the collector area), so that could lead to extra wear on those areas.

Never heard of a steering rod going bad, its just that, a rod, ive heard of headers in certain cars putting off too much heat and having a starter go out, but still, not often, and not on our cars that I can say.

The truth is, at operating temps, and when racing, the headers are going to get just as hot with coating or no coating, and possibly even with wrapping. Its the faster cooling that people like about the coating.

Coating allows the heat to dissapate and move on faster, which helps the headers cool off faster, and gets the heat away from the engine, definitely better than wrap.

A wrap may keep the ambient temps slightly lower, but coating seems to be the safer and longer lasting bet, especially when you think about coating covering the flange, welds, collector, etc. (not just the tubes like wrapping)

Coating used to be mandatory with mild steel headers, but most of the ones that are made for 5th gens are stainless, and dont require a coating to resist rust, so for most people the extra 400$ isnt worth it for just the faster cooling down of a stainless header.

Sorry Doc for build thread jacking.
No apology needed; the information was very appropriate. Thank you!
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:02 AM   #452
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Well I'm selling my previous set of wheels. I have a link to the for sale thread:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315227

For anyone that wants a killer deal on a custom set of 3-piece forged rims I'm selling them for half what I paid for them.
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:02 PM   #453
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Want.... need more pictures of your new wheels Doc, would like to see how much they stick out past the fenders.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:47 PM   #454
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Want.... need more pictures of your new wheels Doc, would like to see how much they stick out past the fenders.
Here's the measurement looking straight down from the top of the front fender:
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Here's a slightly off-center view of the front wheel:
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Here's a shot of the back wheel; it doesn't stick out past the fender at all:
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:34 PM   #455
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Filled the car up and took it to the truck scale; much to my surprise the weight was more than I thought it would be. I remember last time I had it weighed it was over 30 lbs less than I was expecting so maybe there was a problem with the scale at that time. I've since added a few miscellaneous items; a pound here, a pound or two there, which slowly add up. And even though the new wheels weigh about 32 lbs less than the other ones I had, the vehicle weight is about 40 lbs more than I thought it would be, although at 3,700 lbs it's still good.
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So at this point the rwhp is about 20 hp less than I was told I had and the weight is 40 lbs more lol. Ted Jannetty did my latest tune and with the addition of his race scoop he's estimating I'm making 450 rwhp which I'll accept. The dyno run right after the Pfadt headers were installed showed 440 and that was without the scoop and his new tune. This puts my power-to-weight ratio at 8.22-1 which is slightly above my goal of 8-1. I'd have to take another 100 lbs off to hit that which isn't going to happen. The other way to hit it would be to add another 12.5 rwhp which is much more likely.

Right now my immediate goal is to get sway bar end links that don't make noise. The Pfadt end links I have do (which is a known issue with more than a few guys on the forum) and they're supposed to be sending me a new set so we'll see how they do.
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:09 PM   #456
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Filled the car up and took it to the truck scale; much to my surprise the weight was more than I thought it would be. I remember last time I had it weighed it was over 30 lbs less than I was expecting so maybe there was a problem with the scale at that time. I've since added a few miscellaneous items; a pound here, a pound or two there, which slowly add up. And even though the new wheels weigh about 32 lbs less than the other ones I had, the vehicle weight is about 40 lbs more than I thought it would be, although at 3,700 lbs it's still good.


So at this point the rwhp is about 20 hp less than I was told I had and the weight is 40 lbs more lol. Ted Jannetty did my latest tune and with the addition of his race scoop he's estimating I'm making 450 rwhp which I'll accept. The dyno run right after the Pfadt headers were installed showed 440 and that was without the scoop and his new tune. This puts my power-to-weight ratio at 8.22-1 which is slightly above my goal of 8-1. I'd have to take another 100 lbs off to hit that which isn't going to happen. The other way to hit it would be to add another 12.5 rwhp which is much more likely.

Right now my immediate goal is to get sway bar end links that don't make noise. The Pfadt end links I have do (which is a known issue with more than a few guys on the forum) and they're supposed to be sending me a new set so we'll see how they do.
Im sure you've considered this, but I would assume those truck scales arent all that accurate to the pound, or even 10 pounds. Personally I would attribute any unexpected weight gain or loss to the scale and try to average out the weights and expected weights. But I guess you need a point to go off of haha. I wonder where you would have to go to get the vehicle weighed exactly, maybe a dump or salvage yard that charges you by the pound for what you bring or take out?

Just a thought.

Great job either way
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:28 PM   #457
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I haven't hit the truck scale I've used in a while, I was 3740 with junk in the trunk, half tank gas, and 20's up front. Since then I went to 18's up front that should have dropped about 23 lbs from the car. I'm guessing I'm around 3700 too.
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:20 PM   #458
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Do it over the same?

Doc, I was wondering if you would do all these mods the same if you had to do it over again? What where your top three mods that made the biggest difference? Love the car!
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:32 AM   #459
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Doc, I was wondering if you would do all these mods the same if you had to do it over again? What where your top three mods that made the biggest difference? Love the car!
Thank you! I would do the same except now there's so much more choice than there was then. If I had to do it over starting now, I'd go with a 21 lb battery instead of the 15 lb, and the wheels I have now instead of the ones I bought then (because the ones I have now are lighter). The wheels I have now weren't available at that time. I would also consider engine mounts that weren't quite as stiff as the Pfadt ones although they do work as advertised.

Top 3 mods that made the biggest difference I could feel... probably replacing the rear bushings, the brake rotors, and the lighter wheels. The car's handling improved dramatically with those 3 mods. I did those separately at different times so I can only imagine how it would feel to do all 3 at once.

Honestly though if I could start over I'd start with a 1LE and go from there.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:43 AM   #460
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Doc,

Mind if I ask why you'd go with the 21 lb battery over the 15 lb one?
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:48 AM   #461
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Rear bushings = diff bushing in the back?
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:49 AM   #462
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Rear bushings = diff bushing in the back?
I think he's referring to the rear cradle bushings, but
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Old 01-09-2014, 01:19 PM   #463
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Doc,

Mind if I ask why you'd go with the 21 lb battery over the 15 lb one?
The 15 is just slightly low on oomph. If I daily drove my car it would probably be ok but I don't so I have to put a float charger on it every couple of weeks. I'm thinking the 21 lb battery would hold better. The difference of 6 lbs would not be noticeable at all.

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Rear bushings = diff bushing in the back?
Yes

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I think he's referring to the rear cradle bushings, but
Yes. I replaced the diff and cradle bushings at the same time and that made a world of difference in the car's behavior when accelerating and cornering.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:10 PM   #464
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Well Doc it sure seems you have been keeping this car light. I got mine down to 3060 with me in it. I weighed 118lbs at the time, now I'm 124lbs. But I have removed the A/C until I can figure out how to mount the compressor since I can't mount it low like the Corvette accessories. I also weighed my old Tuned Port Injection at 45lbs with rails, injectors, tb etc. And then weighed my LS6 intake with rails, injectors, bolts, tb, etc at 13 lbs. No idea what all the A/C stuff weighed considering it is going back in after I figure out how to mount the compressor and fit it comfortably in the bay. So far the LS swap should be about 32 pounds lighter though.
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Old 01-10-2014, 06:10 AM   #465
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The 15 is just slightly low on oomph. If I daily drove my car it would probably be ok but I don't so I have to put a float charger on it every couple of weeks. I'm thinking the 21 lb battery would hold better. The difference of 6 lbs would not be noticeable at all.



Yes



Yes. I replaced the diff and cradle bushings at the same time and that made a world of difference in the car's behavior when accelerating and cornering.
Damn. Looks like I'll be switching to the 21 lb battery then.
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:58 PM   #466
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Doc, great build !!! Best execution on this forum.

I had been considering using truck scales to weight my car as you have done. I wanted to share what I found out about how accurate these devices are.

The most accurate scale I found is manufactured with a 0.5% accuracy. That is the accuracy it has at shipment to its buyer. In operation accuracy is up to the scale owner, but the manufacturer recommends it be field calibrated over its service life to be 1% accurate.

So for a 3,700 lbs car, when the scale is on the manufacturer's floor the best accuracy possible is plus or minus 18.5 lbs. This same scale in the field after its first recalibration for 1% would be accurate within plus or minus 37 lbs. This info is for one of the most expensive truck scales made in Switzerland and its not likely we'll be weighing in on one of these anyway.

The most accurate American built truck scale I found has 0.8% accuracy at build time. Its operational accuracy is recalibrated within 1.6%. The range for this scale new under a 3,700 lbs load is plus or minus 29.6 lbs. And after its first recal that goes up to plus or minus 59.2 lbs.

Lastly would be the "run of the mill" truck scale. Manufactured for 2% accuracy and recal'ed in the field to be within 4% accuracy. That works out to plus or minus 74 lbs under a 3,700 lbs load new and plus or minus 148 lbs after recal.

Whatever type of scale used to weigh on, going back to it after a recal is likely a whole new ballgame.

What I'm looking into now is finding a shop that is setup to measure and adjust a car's corner weights. Hoping to find more accuracy in going that route but I don't have anything collected on this as yet.
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:47 AM   #467
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Doc, great build !!! Best execution on this forum.

I had been considering using truck scales to weight my car as you have done. I wanted to share what I found out about how accurate these devices are.

The most accurate scale I found is manufactured with a 0.5% accuracy. That is the accuracy it has at shipment to its buyer. In operation accuracy is up to the scale owner, but the manufacturer recommends it be field calibrated over its service life to be 1% accurate.

So for a 3,700 lbs car, when the scale is on the manufacturer's floor the best accuracy possible is plus or minus 18.5 lbs. This same scale in the field after its first recalibration for 1% would be accurate within plus or minus 37 lbs. This info is for one of the most expensive truck scales made in Switzerland and its not likely we'll be weighing in on one of these anyway.

The most accurate American built truck scale I found has 0.8% accuracy at build time. Its operational accuracy is recalibrated within 1.6%. The range for this scale new under a 3,700 lbs load is plus or minus 29.6 lbs. And after its first recal that goes up to plus or minus 59.2 lbs.

Lastly would be the "run of the mill" truck scale. Manufactured for 2% accuracy and recal'ed in the field to be within 4% accuracy. That works out to plus or minus 74 lbs under a 3,700 lbs load new and plus or minus 148 lbs after recal.

Whatever type of scale used to weigh on, going back to it after a recal is likely a whole new ballgame.

What I'm looking into now is finding a shop that is setup to measure and adjust a car's corner weights. Hoping to find more accuracy in going that route but I don't have anything collected on this as yet.
Thanks for the compliment! Man, I didn't realize there was that much variance on accuracy for a truck scale. The one I go to is right by an interstate freeway and gets used a lot so I'm guessing it's probably at the 4% range. Now that I know I guess I'll have to find a place here locally that does corner balancing and be able to give a more accurate weight. Thanks for the info!
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:20 PM   #468
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Man,
Really nice build!!!
I want to do the same with mine!!!
ahnnn...by the way...i was trying to find in your post the weight of the RX Catch-Can kit...do you know the numbers?

Thanks,
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:10 PM   #469
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Man,
Really nice build!!!
I want to do the same with mine!!!
ahnnn...by the way...i was trying to find in your post the weight of the RX Catch-Can kit...do you know the numbers?

Thanks,
Henrique Adams
Thanks for the compliments! You know I don't think I ever actually weighed the catch can if you can believe it lol. I don't know why; I weighed practically everything else! With the bracket and everything I'm guessing maybe 5 lbs; it isn't very heavy.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:35 AM   #470
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The 15 is just slightly low on oomph. If I daily drove my car it would probably be ok but I don't so I have to put a float charger on it every couple of weeks. I'm thinking the 21 lb battery would hold better. The difference of 6 lbs would not be noticeable at all.
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Damn. Looks like I'll be switching to the 21 lb battery then.
Do you have a link to said battery? I know I've seen it in here, but I don't want to sort through 19 pages
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:32 PM   #471
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So did you move over to a 21 lb battery how is it doing?

I have a 15 lb sitting on the bench here but tracks aren't open.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:48 PM   #472
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Do you have a link to said battery? I know I've seen it in here, but I don't want to sort through 19 pages
Here's the link from Braille's factory page:

http://www.braillebattery.com/index....ightweight_agm

You could try the 17 lb B2317RP which is the same list price as the 15 lb and offers 1191 cranking amps instead of the 15 lb's 1067 ca if you wanted to go a few lbs lighter than the 21. The 21 lb B3121 lists for $32 more but offers 1380 cranking amps.

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So did you move over to a 21 lb battery how is it doing?

I have a 15 lb sitting on the bench here but tracks aren't open.
I still have the 15 lb battery installed. Whenever it needs replacing I'll replace it with a 21 lb at that time. Like I said, I put a float charger on it every couple of weeks just to keep it charged up because I don't daily drive mine. If you daily drive it the 15 or 17 lb battery would probably stay charged and work just fine.
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:59 AM   #473
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Here's the link from Braille's factory page:

http://www.braillebattery.com/index....ightweight_agm

You could try the 17 lb B2317RP which is the same list price as the 15 lb and offers 1191 cranking amps instead of the 15 lb's 1067 ca if you wanted to go a few lbs lighter than the 21. The 21 lb B3121 lists for $32 more but offers 1380 cranking amps.



I still have the 15 lb battery installed. Whenever it needs replacing I'll replace it with a 21 lb at that time. Like I said, I put a float charger on it every couple of weeks just to keep it charged up because I don't daily drive mine. If you daily drive it the 15 or 17 lb battery would probably stay charged and work just fine.
Thanks!

I'm debating on which route to go. I no longer daily mine, I drive it on the weekends and sometimes on Friday. I don't have a float charger that I can use, so I'm thinking of going the 21 lb route.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:56 AM   #474
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just read through this whole thread. awesome build. LOVE all the weight savings.
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Old 08-04-2014, 03:17 PM   #475
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I know this is an old thread but, why not replace the trunk and hood with CF or Fiberglass? Also you might be able to run airbags for suspension. Rear seat delete too maybe? Not sure though.
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