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Old 01-04-2014, 07:08 PM   #1
KRich2587
 
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installed Pfadt radius arm bushings

I'm slowly starting to do suspension mods to my 1LE. I cane a across a smoking deal from JDP motorsports for the radius rod bushings so i had to get them.

The quality of the parts is amazing, They almost look too good to put under a car. Installation was a bit annoying as they have to sit for 12 hours for adhesive to cure but besides that it's simple. After install i have no noticeable new noises, maybe a few clicks when off camber on a slope but nothing during normal driving. I do track the car so well see if i can tell any difference on track but on the street i notice better brake feeling and slightly more steering response.

All in all great product thank you Pfadt and JDP motorsports


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Old 02-22-2014, 04:50 PM   #2
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Any hints on removing the radius rod from the spindle? I hate to resort to using a pickle fork, I am afraid of damaging the ball joint boots.
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:11 PM   #3
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Get the car up high enough to hit the stud with a really heavy hammer/sledge. Pickle fork will ruin the boot and its non-serviceable. Although if you go that route you can just buy a new radius rod, I think they're $25 or something along those lines and not too rough on the wallet.
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:20 PM   #4
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Any hints on removing the radius rod from the spindle? I hate to resort to using a pickle fork, I am afraid of damaging the ball joint boots.
just got done doing this myself...

Heat up the knuckle with a propane torch (BE VERY CAREFUL OF RUBBER BOOTS)...

oh and a sledge with a sacrificial 10mm socket so you don't ruin the threads/joint socket

It was the only way I could get mine off.
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:17 AM   #5
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I have it on my hoist at eye level. So far I've tried the propane torch and BFH on both the side of the spindle and end of the ball joint and just succeeded in mushrooming the end of the stud. If the arms are really that cheap the pickle fork might be the next step.

I got my 1" lowering springs installed and would have finished the rear sway bar except one of the bushings they sent is for a 1 3/8" bar instead of 1 1/8" so can't finish that until I get the right part.
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:31 AM   #6
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Well, the control arms are way too expensive at $70 to $80 each to destroy.
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Old 02-24-2014, 08:19 PM   #7
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I put the nut on the ball joint and used an air hammer on the stud to pop them out keeping the nut on keeps you from mushrooming it
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:10 AM   #8
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did you guys try smacking the spindle with a brass hammer like you would with a tie rod or ball joint?
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:28 PM   #9
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Pictures or it didn't happen.

Would like to see this after complete. I used a brass hammer on mine. But then did not install my BMR bushings sold them.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:00 PM   #10
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pics of what? the ball joint ends?
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:46 AM   #11
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The install of the radius arm bushing is done. I bought a Kent Moore removal tool and that with some heat and a hammer was able to bet the ball joints removed. I did have to modify the tool to clear the corners of the nut and also buy a longer bolt but I am still only into is $25. The rest of the job was easy. I used my press to remove the stock bushings and press in the new. I marked the bushings to help in getting them centered. They are .400" in from the edge. I am getting the alignment today so I will know later how it feels compared to stock.
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Old 03-07-2014, 12:13 PM   #12
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pics of what? the ball joint ends?
Pics of the Radius rod bushings installed. Like the ones early Apex posted. I just wanted to see the PFADT bushings installed.

Awesome pics EA.
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Old 03-07-2014, 09:07 PM   #13
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I'll take pics tomorrow when its up on a lift
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:23 PM   #14
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Perfect timing. I plan to do this job along with the cradle and diff bushings with a 32mm rear bar this week end.
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Old 04-02-2014, 02:45 AM   #15
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The install of the radius arm bushing is done. I bought a Kent Moore removal tool and that with some heat and a hammer was able to bet the ball joints removed. I did have to modify the tool to clear the corners of the nut and also buy a longer bolt but I am still only into is $25. The rest of the job was easy. I used my press to remove the stock bushings and press in the new. I marked the bushings to help in getting them centered. They are .400" in from the edge. I am getting the alignment today so I will know later how it feels compared to stock.
what size bolt did you buy. I just bought that tool.
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:38 PM   #16
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My pfadts are in and I have about 500 miles on them. I HATE THEM! Yes I got the alignment. The front end sounds broken, it pops and clicks with even the slightest movement, I have an annoying vibration at speed that starts at about 50 if you drive straight long enough it goes away, until you change speed, or change lanes, god forbid turn. I used a front end service ball joint removal and press kit to get them off, the driver side was a nightmare still, but the passenger side came right off. If I broke something you would think they would have caught it during the alignment.
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:51 PM   #17
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My pfadts are in and I have about 500 miles on them. I HATE THEM! Yes I got the alignment. The front end sounds broken, it pops and clicks with even the slightest movement, I have an annoying vibration at speed that starts at about 50 if you drive straight long enough it goes away, until you change speed, or change lanes, god forbid turn. I used a front end service ball joint removal and press kit to get them off, the driver side was a nightmare still, but the passenger side came right off. If I broke something you would think they would have caught it during the alignment.
Pull out the bolt and nut on the cradle side and try and spin the bushing... I had a problem where the Loctite broke free (on both sides). The little .05oz tube per side was not enough to hold the bushing.

I bought a bottle of the stuff off amazon, cleaned up the bushings/arms and then used plenty of the Loctite 620, let it cure for 3 days. I haven't had a noise/problem since even after autox and road trips.

Here is the link to amazon for the Loctite:

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Temper...ds=loctite+620
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:00 PM   #18
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Pull out the bolt and nut on the cradle side and try and spin the bushing... I had a problem where the Loctite broke free (on both sides). The little .05oz tube per side was not enough to hold the bushing.

I bought a bottle of the stuff off amazon, cleaned up the bushings/arms and then used plenty of the Loctite 620, let it cure for 3 days. I haven't had a noise/problem since even after autox and road trips.
Awesome! I ordered the new style strut upper isolators and will order a tube of that as well and redo it all. Thanks!
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:50 PM   #19
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Get the car up high enough to hit the stud with a really heavy hammer/sledge. Pickle fork will ruin the boot and its non-serviceable. Although if you go that route you can just buy a new radius rod, I think they're $25 or something along those lines and not too rough on the wallet.
DO NOT HAMMER ANYTHING. YOU WILL ALSO DAMAGE THE RACK INTERNALS IF THE TIE ROD END IS STILL IN TACT. ALSO WILL DAMAGE THE KNUCKLE.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:50 PM   #20
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Is this something specific to the Pfadt set up or should someone running the White line bushings look into the locktite prior to install?

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Old 04-17-2014, 12:05 AM   #21
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Awesome! I ordered the new style strut upper isolators and will order a tube of that as well and redo it all. Thanks!
Order the Loctite 638 instead. It's stronger than 620. First clean the surface of both the Pfadt bushing and the interior of the radius arm, then apply the Loctite coating both surfaces totally. Push the bush in and wipe off the excess with a tissue, then apply the locking spring. keep in a warm area and honestly I let mine sit for 3 days and never had a creak, crackle of pop out of them. I've done 4 sets so far with great results and actually just replaced the last set that went bad in my car after 30000 miles of pothole, winter salt hard cornering you name it. The salt killed them though so don't use in winter.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:16 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by EarlyApex View Post
The install of the radius arm bushing is done. I bought a Kent Moore removal tool and that with some heat and a hammer was able to bet the ball joints removed. I did have to modify the tool to clear the corners of the nut and also buy a longer bolt but I am still only into is $25. The rest of the job was easy. I used my press to remove the stock bushings and press in the new. I marked the bushings to help in getting them centered. They are .400" in from the edge. I am getting the alignment today so I will know later how it feels compared to stock.
The Pfadt radius bush is more stable at speeds over the Pedders red bush but the steering response is better with the Pedders bush. Here is a picture of my drivers side arm going in this weekend.
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