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Old 03-06-2014, 03:47 PM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
The first setup worked. The revised setup is new and improved ;-)
Yup, everything is just a work in progress. Will take some shots next week after I get back from VIR to see if it is as clever a solution as I think it is... or not...
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:43 PM   #177
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:43 PM   #178
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Well, that didn't work. Routing the 3 inch hose over top of the sway bar and inside of the front end link just results in the hose getting crushed. Hole in the top already after one month of driving around. See pic.

I am going to re-route the hose on the outside of the end link instead, and then route it around the inside of the fender liner. So, in the pic below, the hose will go to the left of the endlink rather than to the right where it currently goes. Have been testing it out and it looks like there will be no rubbing even with wheels fully turned. Will post some pics when done.

Here is pic of old setup where hose gets crushed. Heads up, this might be you too.

That is the concern I had looking at all of the pictures routed that way....I am still determined to run mine a straight shot and have some ideas on how I am going to prevent damage to the hose when at full lock.

I wrapped up two other projects today (Intake install and door panel install) that have been cluttering my work bench/area so I am ready focus on the duct routing next...I have a month until my first track day this year so I need to get on it!............To be continued

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Old 03-14-2014, 10:50 AM   #179
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Spent most of a weekend at VIR and the new setup works great. No rubbing, no damage, and I am hoping it cools the brakes, too

FYI a Vette guy I was talking to about this told me he used to warp a lot of rotors until he started taking a low-speed 5 minute drive around the grounds right after getting off the track. I guess if you just go straight to park the car, the section of the rotor that is inside the caliper cools at a slower speed (or maybe even heats up if the rotors are really hot) than the rest of the rotor, and that can cause warping. Seems like a small investment to take care of the rotors, so I am doing that too from now on.
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:07 AM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSSoon View Post
Spent most of a weekend at VIR and the new setup works great. No rubbing, no damage, and I am hoping it cools the brakes, too

FYI a Vette guy I was talking to about this told me he used to warp a lot of rotors until he started taking a low-speed 5 minute drive around the grounds right after getting off the track. I guess if you just go straight to park the car, the section of the rotor that is inside the caliper cools at a slower speed (or maybe even heats up if the rotors are really hot) than the rest of the rotor, and that can cause warping. Seems like a small investment to take care of the rotors, so I am doing that too from now on.
Good tip! Thanks!
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:30 PM   #181
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I have been doing the paddock drive for many years.....The worst part is just picking up all the rocks on the tires right after a session but we saw a signifigant temp decrees vs parking the car right after a session. (can't remember the temps now as it was years ago) This was just with a handheld temp gun...but it was good enough for me.

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Old 03-18-2014, 05:59 PM   #182
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Road Atlanta- brake duct test

Well spent the weekend running at Road Atlanta for the first test of the brake ducts. I have no idea if they cooled or not, (nothing to check temps etc). After pulling the wheels tonight to change back to street pads, I noticed the tubing collapsed a little in one spot. I have mine routed the same as SSMike and the only place that there is an issue is where the tube runs between the steering bar (top) and the sway bar (bottom). It is probably closed down about 1/3, with no tears or any real damage. I can not see any better way to route, so I made some adjustments to try and pull it tighter to the sway bar to see if that helps.

I put these on to try and solve an issue that I had the last time out, which was the first time I had switched to DTC-30 pads for the track. I was getting significant shaking in the steering wheel under the heavy braking at the end of the long straight (Road Atlanta), which I thought might be due to heat. The shake was like rotor warp, but when they were cooled down they were fine. No issues at all with the street pads (HPS), so thought I would try the brake cooling to see if that solved it. Well no better with the cooling ducts, but I can't believe are not cooling at least some.

I am now thinking that there is enough of a compound difference with the street pad and the track pad to be causing the issue. I am probably going to either go to a dedicated rotor/pad for the track and a dedicated rotor/pad for the street, or pull the trigger on the 6 piston calipers.

My thoughts on the brake ducts is that they certainly can't hurt, and most likely are helping some.
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:16 PM   #183
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I has the same weird feeling with the DTC's kind of pulsing like they weren't biting very well and took more pedal force to make things happen. I will be ditching them after they wear out for something with a more aggressive initial and linear bite.
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:55 PM   #184
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My issue is just like a warped rotor, brakes were stopping well, just shaking really bad when hard on them. It got a little better in the 3rd and 4th sessions, but still there.

I talked to someone at the track that said that carbotech has a street pad and track pad that might work without swapping rotors, so might try those as well.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:44 PM   #185
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DTC 30 pads are not enough pad for an aggressively driven 5th Gen on track. DTC 30 are fine for the rears when used with DTC 60 up front.
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:00 PM   #186
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Yeah I realized by the 3rd lap when they still didn't feel like they had warmed up that they were just lacking with the new tire setup. The rest of the day I was just waiting for the rotor or pad to overheat. And it was even on a cold day taking it easy due to the cold track so I lucked out. All I managed to destroy was a diffuser when things shifted and melted. Clearly I'm not trying hard enough if thats all I break.

I will likely go XR1/XR3 since everyone has good luck with them, I just dont like the price. Or the inevitable wife tax when I buy more stuff after telling her I was done until something breaks. LOL
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:02 PM   #187
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The Wife Tax doubles the CobaltFriction pad price, but what can she for $20?

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Old 03-18-2014, 08:04 PM   #188
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LOL, shared bank accounts gives her 20/20 vision to see through my b.s.
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:20 PM   #189
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All I managed to destroy was a diffuser when things shifted and melted.
I am having trouble imagining what exactly shifted and how it melted the diffuser. Inquiring minds want to know.
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:34 PM   #190
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I think my exhaust bumped something, its hangin kinda low and new clamps are on the way to try and hold it better. It moved a bit during the first session, got close to the diffuser, and a few track sessions later my diffuser was a puddle of goo. A quad tip setup will go on next so I have 50% less surface area to melt since they don't have a bottom. Or at least thats the excuse I'm using.
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:58 AM   #191
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Finally got my act together and fitted the ducts to the front air deflector.
Pic is pretty much the same as most everyone has already done here. Thanks for all the great posts guys.
Name:  Camaro Ducts1.jpg
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Size:  111.1 KB
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:05 AM   #192
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Finally got my act together and fitted the ducts to the front air deflector.
Pic is pretty much the same as most everyone has already done here. Thanks for all the great posts guys.
Attachment 609061
Looks like a good start!
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:11 AM   #193
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After pulling the wheels tonight to change back to street pads, I noticed the tubing collapsed a little in one spot. I have mine routed the same as SSMike and the only place that there is an issue is where the tube runs between the steering bar (top) and the sway bar (bottom). It is probably closed down about 1/3, with no tears or any real damage. I can not see any better way to route, so I made some adjustments to try and pull it tighter to the sway bar to see if that helps.
I think the question of how much they get crushed depends on the brand of sway bar you have, as each has different shape right at the 90 degree angle. I have Pfadt, and mine were crushed down to nothing and broken open when I routed them over the sway. See pics in earlier post where I showed the new routing - it works great for me.
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Old 03-19-2014, 05:20 PM   #194
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Looks like a good start!
Thanks, SSMike.

One question that I have is how did you guys attach the hose to the ABS plastic inlet ducts? The ducts that I received from Racer Wholesale Parts did not come with any retention lip at all on the 3" nozzle. I'm worried that the hose will just slip right off.
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Pfadt coilovers, camber plates, trailing arms & differential bushings.
BMR adjustable toe-rods. Pedders ZL1 barz, rear cradle inserts, radius arm & steering rack bushings.
Hotchkis Max Chassis Brace (minus tunnel cross-over piece for SCCA rules)
1LE 3.91 gearzzz. Drive Shaft Shop Road Race Axle Upgrade. TurnOne power steering pump.
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:13 PM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avalnch View Post
Thanks, SSMike.

One question that I have is how did you guys attach the hose to the ABS plastic inlet ducts? The ducts that I received from Racer Wholesale Parts did not come with any retention lip at all on the 3" nozzle. I'm worried that the hose will just slip right off.
Hose clamps seem to hold good.
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:23 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avalnch View Post
One question that I have is how did you guys attach the hose to the ABS plastic inlet ducts? The ducts that I received from Racer Wholesale Parts did not come with any retention lip at all on the 3" nozzle. I'm worried that the hose will just slip right off.
Mine are not the same as yours, but they came with a 2-3 inch long round section at the back that had a raised area at the very end, that you could clamp onto and be sure that it didn't fall off. But I had to make the whole thing shorter (to fit) so I cut that nice raised part off and left only about 1" to clamp onto. Hose clamp is holding really well, regardless. No real stress on that point as far as I can tell.
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:35 PM   #197
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Thanks for the info. I'll have to get a pair of hose clamps.
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Scorch Yellow Trim Kit, Shark Fin, AAC DRLs+ABLs+SMDs, ZTA Rear Spoiler, R.Y. 1LE Splitter
Pfadt coilovers, camber plates, trailing arms & differential bushings.
BMR adjustable toe-rods. Pedders ZL1 barz, rear cradle inserts, radius arm & steering rack bushings.
Hotchkis Max Chassis Brace (minus tunnel cross-over piece for SCCA rules)
1LE 3.91 gearzzz. Drive Shaft Shop Road Race Axle Upgrade. TurnOne power steering pump.
Forgeline GA3-R 19x11 + Hoosier R6 315/30R19
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:51 AM   #198
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Thanks for the info. I'll have to get a pair of hose clamps.
Not sure if it matters, but I bought lined hose clamps - they have an extra long metal tongue on the inside so that when you crank them down they do not shred the hose. I posted part number earlier, but you can buy them many places I bet.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:08 AM   #199
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Ducts

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSSoon View Post
I think the question of how much they get crushed depends on the brand of sway bar you have, as each has different shape right at the 90 degree angle. I have Pfadt, and mine were crushed down to nothing and broken open when I routed them over the sway. See pics in earlier post where I showed the new routing - it works great for me.
I saw that post and am trying that route next. Thanks
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:20 AM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
I think my exhaust bumped something, its hangin kinda low and new clamps are on the way to try and hold it better. It moved a bit during the first session, got close to the diffuser, and a few track sessions later my diffuser was a puddle of goo. A quad tip setup will go on next so I have 50% less surface area to melt since they don't have a bottom. Or at least thats the excuse I'm using.
Without pictures, it didn't happen.
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