|07-26-2013, 09:42 PM||#26|
I had these next two pieces left over from my '11. They both seem to fit the 1LE better.
Strut caps and my painted strut brace. I need to get a better pic.
Not a mod, but isn't it cool to have this tag on your car? It matches my old engine cover.
Future planned appearance mods:
Last edited by Fraxum; 04-30-2014 at 03:21 PM.
|07-26-2013, 09:58 PM||#27|
Pro Clip Speaker Nav Mount
Several asked about the Nav bracket. It mounts underneath the front speaker grille. I really like how high the Nav sits and it is very easy to follow while driving. I can can also adapt it for my Canon movie camera. I may move up to a GoPro later. I can attach the camera two ways, simply suction it to the nav screen, or build a custom camera mount that fits in the Nav holder bracket. Having this softened the blow of not getting Nav on the 1LE. Between this and my Smart Phone I do not really need the factory Nav. But I find it surprising you cannot easily add Nav to MYLink. A wasted opportunity for Chevy here. Great Mod.
ProClip Camaro Speaker Mount
Just thought I'd throw in an interior pic from my '11 Camaro. I plan to keep the 1LE a little neater.
Last edited by Fraxum; 07-29-2013 at 09:05 AM.
|07-29-2013, 09:39 AM||#28|
(Edit) Now replaced by my AGP catch can.
The 1LE comes with what some have called a "clean" side catch can. But it is not a can you empty, it simply puts the oil back where it belongs, in the crank case. The reason for the clean side return, I think, is that the 1LE can generate 1.0G cornering (according to the Camaro brochure) and this force may cause some oil seepage.
The clean side is not the same as the catch can we usually think of. The difference is the mod catch can works on the "dirty" side and prevents your engine from ingesting oil, which it normally would. Even though there is some debate on if the dirty side catch can is needed, it seemed like a good idea to me. So I bought one.
While there are other cans that are highly thought of, I bought the Elite can because it looked like a quality piece, came highly recommended, and after installing it I would add well engineered. I like the spin off can that can quickly be emptied.
If you are well prepared you can install the Eilte Catch Can in 15 minutes. But I was not. The problem I had was, where the heck is the LS3 PCV line/valve? It turns out it is this little loop that is a bit hard to reach and has a rather unique locking mechanism. This video really helped me find and remove the culprit:
The finished job:
Both Catch Cans: They line up nicely with the clean one on top. Look at where those hoses are going. The destination is the elusive PCV LS3 location.
Look what it caught so far after only 150 miles and one trip to the drag strip!
Last edited by Fraxum; 04-30-2014 at 03:22 PM.
|08-04-2013, 10:06 PM||#29|
Working in the yard, is a never ending task at my house, I cut myself with a big shears and wound up in the ER with stitches. So I decided to start playing around with Plasti Dip to pass a Sunday afternoon. I was forbidden to contiue working in the yard.
Plasti Dip is cool stuff, but I never did anything with it before now. The 1LE is begging for Plasti Dip. The flat black on hood, splitter, wheels etc all match right up with the color of Plasti Dip on the base color.
Two great threads on the topic:
For starters, I wanted to dip the Bow tie centers, the tail light bezels, and the Camaro badge on the sides. I also like the drip rails black on the 1LE and I did want a non-RS 1LE to save a few bucks, but the Camaro I liked best had it, so I am going for a touch of the non-RS look.
If you haven't worked with Plasti Dip before, read up on it first, it takes some practice in some applications. But I love if you make a mistake or get tired of it, just peel it off. I already went with black Gorilla locks and valve caps, so my 1LE is getting closer to the final look I want. Later I want to do the gill slits, not sure if Plasti Dip is the right thing for that job. I also want to add ZL1 side skirts.
The drip rails did not turn out so well. The tape on the inside rail pulled on the finished part of the drip rail. I think to make that work I need to spray the dip on thick and remove the tape while the dip is still tacky. I did try to repair it, but not completely happy with the result up close.
My results of my first Plasti Dip project:
Last edited by Fraxum; 06-01-2014 at 08:42 PM.
|09-19-2013, 07:52 PM||#30|
JL Audio XD400/4 XD Series 400 Watt RMS 4-Channel Class D Car Audio Amplifier
I want to amp up the stock BA sound. In my '11 Camaro I installed a large stealth box with a 10" sub and 4+1 amp. While this setup sounded great,I did not want to add so much weight this time around. So I went with a direct BA amp replacement with a Subthump Amp board and a Subthump FARK harness. This setup adds only 2 pounds to 1LE and sounds great.
Replacing the BA amp with this setup took only and hour and was very easy. I did add the ground resistor.
After the install I poked around on C5 and found a couple of threads to suggested amp settings before screwing on the amp cover. The sound is good with strong highs, and mirror shaking lows. In the head unit I have my bass setting in the middle, and the mid and high range just a little below the middle. At loud volume they are both a bit ear splitting to me. But even at high volume I cannot hear any distortion. So now I can listen to Neil Young's Psychedelic Pill's distorted guitar ramblings as clearly as possible. I do have a little amp hum with the head unit off, so I need to open up the amp again and tweak it a bit more.
One problem with this Amp. With the radio off there is a very annoying ans distinct hum. I think when the halos come on. Darn, I did want a non-RS!
Last edited by Fraxum; 06-01-2014 at 08:45 PM.
|09-19-2013, 07:58 PM||#31|
CAI, Scoop, Ported TB, Wedge, Washer Bottle Relo
(Edit) All this stuff is off now and replaced by the AGP TT setup.
I installed my '11 Camaro SS CAI, Scoop, and Vararam Wedge. I added a ported TB and an Apex washer bottle relocation kit.
This time I took the driver side wheel off, which made the install a bit easier than the last time with the wheel on.
I thought the CAI would look better in black on the 1LE, so i painted it semi-gloss black. The IOM under the hoods really sets off this change. I don't have a picture of this, but when you instal an older Cold Air Inductions on a '13 Camaro and up you have to trim the edge of CAI next to the fender to allow the additional power cable clearance. On the '13 it also seemed the scoop bumper cut was harder due to more material on the plastic under bumper plate.
The Apex washer bottle relocation kit requires additional holes in the CAI to mount the filler cap. But I really like the design much better than my previous home made solution. With the kit the washer bottle is back down where i belongs.
The Scoop cut (Messy cut. )
The view down the scoop:
The view without the CAI cap on:
The arrow points to the notch that has to be cut for the cable. I did my notch with the a dremel.
This setup must add about 20 rwhp. Dyno testing on the CAI and scoop runs about 18 and I will add an extra 2 for the ported TB and the Wedge. With all this I can feel the difference in power and hear a better induction sound. This mod also helped me at the track. More on that later.
Last edited by Fraxum; 06-01-2014 at 08:48 PM.
|09-19-2013, 08:49 PM||#32|
Trailing arm install
The 1LE suspension is a big jump over the FE4 SS suspension. But it still could use some improvement. The bushings are still rubbery and one of the downsides is wheel hop. A full differential and cradle bushing replacement will be in store for my 1LE in the future, but for now I will have to be happy with just a BMR trailing arm and outer Trailing arm bushing. Since I have done this before, installing the outer bushing went smoothly.
But when I went to bolt the passenger side Trailing Arm inner bolt the, bolt was nowhere near lining up. After much internet searching and experimenting I found the solution. Since no install instructions addressed my problem I decided to write up my own more detailed instructions. See below.
Even after the install, there is still some wheelhop, but there is less than before.
Fraxum's extra safe DIY garage C5 Camaro Trailing Arm and outer TA bushing replacement instructions:
Last edited by Fraxum; 09-19-2013 at 10:03 PM.
|09-19-2013, 09:21 PM||#33|
Drag racing is a big for me right now. My goal is to get better. Can say without a doubt after 70 or so runs on stock tires the 1LE F1s are difficult to launch on. I was occasionally able to get a 1.9 60's on my '11 SS with Pirellis. In my 1LE I could do no better than 2.1.
So I decided to up the ante and get a pair of drag radials. I spent quite a bit of time selecting a wheel. I chose an 18" wheel for lighter weight and a taller sidewall. I also chose the Nitto 555R drag redial over the NT05R. While the NT05R is a better drag radial for launching, the 555R is a better street tire. I plan to leave the DRs on most of the time, so I do not want to worry about rain if i get stuck in it. I also wanted TPMS to keep track of the tire pressure.
As to the wheels I chose the 18" 9.5" TSW Nurburgrings as they are lighter than most other reasonably priced wheels at 21 pounds. The same goes for TSW Interlagos which are even lighter at just over 19 pounds. And they both fit nicely over the rear Brembos. My scale is not very accurate, but by my measurement on a accurate scale the new set up saves 7.6 pounds per wheel (61.6 lbs vs 54 lbs). The 305/45 Nittos are and inch taller than the Goodyears so my speedometer is a little slow. But the difference with the fronts is not enough to set off a CEL. I do like the stance.
Also be advised with these TSWs you need tuner lugs. These are very skinny lugs with a special socket to turn them. I had a set of skinny Gorilla lugs, but these are not skinny enough.
This setup works well enough for me to improve and get lots of attention in the staging lanes. I think I need to Plasti Dip the center caps though.
Driving on the Nittos on 32+ pounds feels pretty good on the street and it's hard to feel a big difference with the Goodyears. I would not run these on a road track or autocross even if allowed, but for every day driving they feel fine. With 24-28 pounds in them they do feel a bit rubbery. Both the Goodyears and Nittos are not good tires to have in a hurricane, but if you are careful they both can get you there.
And since the rears wear out faster than the fronts, at least the will for for me, I now have rear tire rotation to lengthen the life of my Goodyears.
One thing that puzzles me about this install, I was told I would need to zip tie the emergency brake cable. But when I look under the car I see no cable close to touching these rims. Maybe on the 1LE this potential problem is fixed or the 18" TSWs clear the cable.
Also you need the relearn tool to set the TPMS:
Last edited by Fraxum; 11-04-2013 at 09:47 PM.
|10-03-2013, 08:17 PM||#34|
For a long time I wondered how so many people easily added vinyl to their cars. When I tried this, I would peel off the vinyl and then curse when I applied it crooked and tried to straighten it out.
But there is a secret, just like with the Plasi Dip lettering. Soapy water! I found a link online that said you clean the surface carefully and then apply soapy water to the area before you apply the vinyl. Wow, it was so easy to apply the skinny vinyl gills. I really like the ones that fit just the edge of the gills but I put this mod off thinking I could never pull it off. If my hood wrap ever needs replacing I am no longer afraid to give it a try. Bring on the vinyl and Plasti Dip.
|10-03-2013, 08:51 PM||#35|
Tunnel Brace, Radius Rod Inserts, and Separate Clutch Reservoir
A while ago I bought the separate clutch reservoir kit. I am not 100 percent convinced of the need, but heck I already have the catch can and the Vararam Wedge. There are two versions of this mod, one with just adding the clutch reservoir and another that includes an automatic brake reservoir as well to eliminate the capped clutch nipple. I bought the simpler kit. It's cheaper and it will be easy to remove later if I sell the car.
But I was intimidated by having to bleed the clutch. I could not find any install instructions from JDP Motorsports. After thorough search i found a good DIY thread here on C5. No clutch bleeding needed! You go have to get the air out of the new line, but that is easy. Another intimidating mod that turns out to be simple.
Notice the clip supplied by JDP was too big to fit the now unused clutch nipple. I went overkill and used a small hose clamp. It will never leak.
Next I installed my Pedders HD Radius Rod inserts. A must have for a tight steering Camaro. I thought this mod was simple. I put them on and took them off my '11 SS in under a half hour. So I slid under the car the car thinking I would be out in time for dinner. But I miscalculated here. On my 1LE the CAI Scoop was sitting a little low and I had to take the scoop side bolt out to remove the rod bolt. Then since I did that, I had to later remove the front tire and peel back the fender inner cover to get that bolt back into the scoop.
Then I moved over to the passenger side which was dead simple on the '11. No so on the '13. The reason? The electric power steering pump is right in the way and make it hard to access the nut on the rod bolt. I needed to try many combinations of tools until I managed to get the bolt off. The 1/2 hour mod on the '11 was 2 1/2 hours in the 1LE.
The mod is so worth it though. I love my newly tightened up steering.
One other chassis mod I did was the BMR tunnel brace. I really didn't need it on the 1LE as I managed to get my exhaust higher on the 1LE during my LT install. But the brace looks cool and it was sitting no my workbench. I will document the LTs next time along with my drag racing results along the way. Even before my LT install my 1LE is in the 12s.
Last edited by Fraxum; 11-23-2013 at 08:10 AM.
|10-20-2013, 09:02 PM||#36|
MSD Shift Light
When you are drag racing anything that will help you concentrate on staying in your lane is a good thing. And if it also helps you be more consistent even better.
So I decided to add a shift light to my 1LE. I went with the MSD 89631 mainly for low cost. This is a single mode light that handles shifting but not launching.
The install is very easy. You simply connect the pick up on the light to #1 Cylinder coil to the light colored wire. Then connect to power and ground and thats all there is to it. The Camaro has an unused plug high on the fire wall next to the master cylinder towards the drivers side fender so no drilling needed.
What makes this even easier is that hole allows you to route the pick ip wires right into the driver side end dash panel right into the interior fuse box there. Also under that panel is a bolt for a ground. To tie into the fuse box get a piggy back fuse to one of the two switched 20A fuses in the fuse box. So no Camaro drilling or wire cutting. I attached the light to the top of the dash with Velcro. Also I added a toggle switch from radio shack under the dash so I can turn the light on only when I need it.
You set the light to 1 cylinder so the correct RPM is calculated. I set all 4 shift points to 6,400 which puts my usual reaction time right before red line. Works great! I can focus on keeping an eye on the track and my times are much more consistent.
One thing about the install, the pickup screw clamp must be snug around the coil fire wire. If its not the light will only work up to a certain RPM and then fall off. I found this out the hard way.
Last edited by Fraxum; 11-23-2013 at 08:12 AM.
|11-02-2013, 09:19 PM||#37|
|11-22-2013, 07:17 PM||#38|
ZL-1 Splash Guards
I grow tired of cleaning rubber off of the rear quarter panels. A relatively cheap solution? ZL-1 splash guards. The install is very fast and simple
If you look at the inner fender well pic, I circled the 4 attachment points. For the top hole I matched it up with the fender well screw already there. But the ZL-1 splash guards top tab was too big to fit in the SS spot so I trimmed the tabs on both sides to fit the little indentation at the top screw.
Then I simply fit the splash guards in place and drilled out the three remaining splash guard holes into the fender well liner. You should do this with a very small drill bit to let the truss screws self tap. And do not over tighten these screws. The fender liner is easy to strip. Once all the screws are in place the splash guards are not going anywhere.
Others have installed the splash guards without taking the tire off. This way seemed easier to me.
|11-23-2013, 08:20 AM||#40|
I could only find replicas which are heavier. The Vette bolt pattern is slightly wider but will work on the Camaro. If you can find Vette take-offs this is a good way to go. But because they work as rear DRs for Camaros, they are very hard to find.
|12-03-2013, 07:54 PM||#41|
Long Tubes, Cats, and Xpipe
(Edit) All this stuff is off now replaced by the AGP TT setup. It uses the stock manifolds.
I installed my Bigflow 1 7/8 stainless LTs on my 1LE. The install went smoothly on my race ramps. Doing this before on my '11 SS was a big help. If you are at all handy with tools this is a fairly easy and satisfying DIY.
I bought a set of Kooks shorty cats so they would fit the stock NPP system. On my '11 I was running a set of Bigflow 3/2.5 cats but they are longer so I had to cut a few inches off my stock catback to fit. The shorter Kooks make things easier.
Needless to say the LTs with the high flow cats transform the 1LE and make it even more fun to drive. And on the drag strip they cut my ET .5 seconds even without a tune.
As far as the tune goes, I will wait on that till next year. It is really no big deal to read the codes and turn them off when they happen. I did install rear O2 spacers to reduce the CELs. But the '13s are more sensitive to LTs and will throw even more codes easier than the older cars. Still not a big deal.
After getting the car together and running it at an Atco Test & Tune I really did not like the sound. It was too loud with the NPP flaps open or closed and at full throttle it sounded awful to my ears. But I already knew the solution. the Magnaflow Xpipe. It looks like a muffler, but it's a baffled Xpipe when you look inside. I used also one on my '11 SS and I had saved that part of my old catback, just in case. So I spent a few hours with a saw and a chisel removing the Xpipe so It could be installed on the 1LE.
The sound was transformed. Check out the videos below. The next time I video I will set the focus. After the install I loved driving the 1LE again. The sound is only a little louder than stock, but deeper. Sounds great to my ears.
The Xpipe also did not slow down the car as I ran faster at the next T&T. I do not think the Xpipe made the car faster, but it didn't hurt.
If you are on the fence about LTs, do it. You will not be sorry.
After xpipe clip:
Last edited by Fraxum; 04-30-2014 at 03:27 PM.
|12-05-2013, 07:19 AM||#43|
My best so far:
Still learning how to launch. I think it has a 12.1-2 in it if I can get a launch with a good touch. I also have a running thread in the drag racing section about my quest to beat 5.0s, especialy Boss 302s. Maybe you will want to comment there.
My modded 1LE puts me about even with stock Boss 302s to even out the 200+ pound weight advantage. But just to be fair my good friends 5.0 auto with a CAI, tune, and DRs is running high 11s. He likes to sit at the line and give me a head start so he can reel me in on the big end. That 5.0 is a great engine, but hard to work on.
Now that the season is over here in NJ I will put together a post tracking my drag racing progress with my 1LE.
Last edited by Fraxum; 04-30-2014 at 03:28 PM.
|03-16-2014, 01:46 AM||#44|
Suppressed HK co-pilot
Drives: '14 2SS Yelo Maro, HD collection
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: DFW, TX
North Central Texas is currently in the sunroof/windows down season. As with riding my Harleys this time of year, allergy meds keep me going...to a point. When on a scooter, it's time to drive instead of ride when my jeans turn green from pollen dust.
2014 LS3 - BMR full poly rear trailing arms, LG Motorsports Super Pro 1 7/8" headers, 3" full exhaust, 2.5" inlet GHL mufflers, LGM tune by Anthony Forney - barely broken-in motor with 1500 miles on it - 409.83 RWHP with 401.10 RW torque WITH STOCK AIRBOX. Have since added a VMAX ported TB and Halltech Yellow Jacket CAI. That should put me at 420 RWHP - give or take a few.
Back when folks were killing brain cells huffing glue, I was huffing 327s with 6-71s and having more fun than the glue guys.
|03-16-2014, 12:06 PM||#45|
I had not heard about sun roof cars being rejected. I have not been turned down at Atco or NJ Motorsports Park. But then again I am not racing in actual racing classes. I think many 1LE buyers prefer the mohawk look, do not want the extra weight of the sunroof, and want more headroom for helmets.
But like you I love the roof. It makes for great cruising in warm weather. I rarely turn the AC on, but I do not live in Texas. I want my car to do everything well. Drag, track, and cruise. But I do have to hold my head a little crooked when I put on a helmet.
I gave up my bike after I bought my first 5th gen Camaro. Here in NJ we do not have your wide open spaces. And I got tired of having to establish eye contact with every cage driver at every intersection. So many texters here in the north east. Now I cruise in comfort and no worries about rain in a car with a five star crash rating.
Last edited by Fraxum; 03-18-2014 at 03:57 PM.
|04-13-2014, 09:51 AM||#47|
I have been wanting Hex Vents for a long time. The biggest obstacle was cutting holes in my hood. To solve this problem I invited my friend Marc over to help. He only does things one way, the right way. Luckily he had some time to help me.
The Hex Vents are high quality and does add to the purposeful look of the 1LE.
You will find a number of installation DIYs around and no two are the same. watch/read them all for ideas. Essentially you are just cutting two big holes in your hood and bracing. You biggest helper is that the hood is aluminum. The hood is easy to lift and cut.
My thoughts on the install:
To me the solution seems simple. The bottom part of the vent could be slightly taller and the trays could be slid in and out of a slot cut into the taller bottom bracket. Perhaps building vents like this is not so easy.
I do love the look of the vents, I just wish they were more functional.
|04-29-2014, 06:17 PM||#48|
AGP Twin Turbos!
This all started when I turned 60. When you are younger you can't imagine getting this old, but once you get here it's no big deal. But the people around you want to honor your perseverance. So Eileen my wife and CFO says "Hey Mark, you have always wanted a Corvette, go get yourself one. And I will help you pay for it." Hmmm, the C7 is awesome, what a great idea. So I started this thread with a Poll asking opinions online. I thought it would be an interesting conversation. It was.
My turbos. I picked the base turbo recommended for stock LS3s and L99s:
Needless to say in my poll buying a new C7 was an overwhelming favorite over keeping my 1LE. I agreed. So I went to visit a local dealer who has a ton of C7s in stock. I had my heart set on a Z51, but the winter months here in the great cold northeast do not allow Z51s (tires too summerish)to be delivered here for some months of the year so Z51s were scarce. So while I wanted an LT1 Z51 there were none to be had. C7 LT1s are really nice, the upper trim levels are overpriced. So I found a base red LT1 with a glass roof being the only option. I test drove it. So needless to say it was a good drive. It felt faster than my modded 1LE (@422 RWHP!), it was. But just barely. But it also felt softer than my 1LE and cramped. But I did like it, so I figured if they could make me a fair deal maybe I would do it.
Well anyone who has been to dealer trying to buy an in demand car will know, there is no such thing as a fair deal in that situation. While they were willing to take $2K off the C7 list, they offered me $24K for my 6 month old $44K 1LE. Woah! This was $400 less than I owed. So if I gave them $400 and my 2013 1LE I could break even and then buy their C7 LT1 at $51k.
Needless to say, I walked. And they let me walk. On the drive home in my 1LE, I realized I liked driving my 1LE more than the C7 LT1. Maybe a Z51 would have changed my mind, but the experience made clear to me I was chasing a windmill. Besides all that, I did really want a back seat. What nailed it for me was driving around on a Saturday and seeing a grey C7 and a few minutes later a grey C6 Grand Sport. Even though I knew the C7 was better all-around it was quite homely compared to the C6. The lines and overall look were so much classier than the awkward bug look. In a couple of years a C6 Grand Sport would be very affordable alongside my 1LE. Decision made.
So if I am keeping my 1LE and I have all this 60ish political capital including extra funds, why not upgrade it somehow? So my search was on. I thought, power adder, I have been obsessed lately with drag racing (T&Ts) my 1LE and struggling to get into the 11s. But which one? I know the positive displacement SCs are the rage. Big power and instant torque down low. But these systems are plagued with heat soak and also push the engine hard, and stress the rest of the car if you are making big power. So my natural inclination was centrifugal. These systems can make big power easier and are easier on the drive train without the massive torque down low. And they are less prone to heat soak then the PDs.
Having a twin turbo BMW in the past had sold me on turbos. Really big power, lower heat soak and IATs than the other FIs and they suck very little power to make power. So at any given power level turbos stress the engine less than superchargers. As I wanted my 1LE to be my daily driver and I wanted to keep it, this was important. So I checked around and I found that turbos were more expensive than superchargers. A lot more. So I went back to centrifugals which were my second choice.
After some rounds of research I settled on an ECS Centrifugal who gave me a great price and were nice to work with. Also they are local to me In NJ. I was all set waiting for a slot for the install. Then, RPM in Delaware who had seen online I was interested in the AGP TT kit put a great deal together matching my ECS centrifugal price. Wow, turbos were the dream. How could I turn that down? And RPM installed the upgraded suspension on my '11 SS, so I already knew they were great to work with.
So I put my deposit down and waited. During my wait I decided to add a fuel pressure gauge and an AF/Boost gauge from AEM. Several week later my car was done. I could not wait!
I told RPM I wanted a turbo where I could manipulate the power down to sane levels for street driving and autoX. So they built my car with the lowest HP wategate spring, with 4-5 pounds of boost. They tuned my car with this in mind. I wound up with 547 RWHP. So this would be my baseline HP. They said I could turn my boost up to 7-8 pounds with my 1LE ZL1 fuel pump and injectors they installed. If I wanted more I could add a BAP and/or a better fuel pump. AGP says my turbos are good for up to 950 RWHP if I want to upgrade to get there. That should be plenty.
Also during the process I found out my LTs, cats, and CAI were good for 422 RWHP with no tune. No wonder I was making good 1/4 numbers! The AGP kit uses the stock manifolds and includes other parts , so my LTs, cats, CAI, catch can, scoop, and washer bottle mod all had to come off. In the turbo equation the fact that all you need is turbos and fuel delivery to make big power does take the sting off the turbo price.
The TTs added 125 RWHP to that 422. Let me tell you that +125 you can feel easy!! The turbos kick in at 2750 rpm. Below that the car drives stock. Above that all hell breaks loose. There is so much power that the somewhat stiff 1LE rubber bushings are over whelmed and you get big side step from the 1LE I never felt before. Poly bushings are now in the future for my 1LE. This is a good thing for handling, but not so much for refinement. Still it is in keeping with my ZL1+ power level. I can also tell you my DRs are now my daily tires as the SS traction control is overwhelmed by the power and slippery when cold Goodyears.
My car was dynoed before and after. The before dyno is with LTs, cats, a CAI, a scoop and no tune. All that had to come off as the turbos do not use CAIs and the AGP setup makes use of the stock manifolds. So my HP mods now consist of 850cc injectors to go along with my stock ZL1 fuel pump and the AGP turbo setup. So if we consider that a stock LS3 2013+ SS dynos around 390 the AGP kit alone at the lowest boost possible with the wategate springs supplied was work 157 RWHP. Awesome! I also would like to add everywhere you look the AGP kit is top quality and well engineered. I made a good choice.
I also had RPM install two AEM gauges at their recommmendation, a fuel pressure and a boost/afm gauge in a post pod. The boost/afm gauge (Wideband Failsafe Gauge per AEM) is a really cool combo gauge that also has fail safe capabilities. More info here:
I have a number of little items to track down but overall the AGP kit is a big success! I asked RPM to take some pics of the process so here they are below. Nice job RPM. Hope to get to the track soon, more to come.
The final Dyno @4-5 PSI:
The RPM install:
Last edited by Fraxum; 05-15-2014 at 05:12 PM.
|04-30-2014, 03:29 PM||#49|
One of my first Mods was the Exhaust Commander for NPP flap control. I forgot to document this! It is one of my favorite mods. I chose this over the Mild to Wild switch as the EC never uses any power when switched off. During the winter my 1LE sits waiting for spring. But the EC cannot keep the flaps closed all the time. Okay by me. The EC options are NPP flaps open all the time or stock behavior.
It takes only minutes to install. And I have it controlled with one of my Homelink buttons. Very nice. I have quiet cruising for long rides o listen to music or Audio Books and bad boy sounds for that Saturday drive and on the way to the track. The best of both worlds.
|05-07-2014, 06:05 PM||#50|
TT First Good Track Results
The first time I went to the track after the TT install I forgot to flush my clutch reservoir. I only took 6 runs. They were all pretty bad and three of them I had to abort. My best that night was a 12.3 @ 117. That matches my best bolton ET but of course the mph is up so I am not getting the best of my car. I was babying the launch an shifting easy at 6,000.
Two nights and 6 clutch reservoir flushes later, all better with the clutch! I also ordered the Tick clutch line, while I was thinking clutch.
I also got more aggressive with my launches My best 60' of the night was my best run. email@example.com! 11s finally. Traction was not a problem at all. I was running right after the Gambler cars and the track was great. I think my best run of the night was my last but I missed third.
Most of my other runs were 12.0-1 @117 to almost 119. There is more in this car, I was shifting easy just a little over 6,000 on my light. Probably 6,400-500. Mid 11s will be doable with a little more practice and some good air.
Also the turbo twins were big hit in the staging lanes. They couldn't believe only 4 pounds of boost was pushing my big heavy car that fast with stock manifolds.