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Old 01-24-2014, 12:07 PM   #26
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Then you should really go with a 60 or 80 for painting, unless you are doing very small pieces. Make sure to get some good filters so there is no moisture in your pain.
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Old 01-24-2014, 06:37 PM   #27
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the last thing you want is for the tool to get low and sputter.
That's what she said
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:18 PM   #28
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That's what she said
lol

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Then you should really go with a 60 or 80 for painting, unless you are doing very small pieces. Make sure to get some good filters so there is no moisture in your pain.
Good tip. I will.
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Old 01-25-2014, 06:35 PM   #29
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I bought the 60 gallon Kobalt from Lowes like 5 years ago, port cylinder heads with it all the time without issue.
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Old 01-25-2014, 06:41 PM   #30
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I bought the 60 gallon Kobalt from Lowes like 5 years ago, port cylinder heads with it all the time without issue.
Can you remember what you paid for it?
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:43 PM   #31
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Remember cfm is the main number you should be concerned about, Tank size does not relate to cfm. A 60 gallon tank can put out low cfm as this is about storage or compressor cycle time. A two stage compressor will usually out perform a single stage in the cfm delivery. Also 2 stage compressors will usually be oil bath and run quieter not like the direct drive which can be very loud. If you want to have something that will meet all your needs a 2 stage 60 gallon should be more than enough for the home garage. If you need a great air ratchet at a reasonable price go purchase a 1/2 inch earthquake at harbour freight this ratchet is a real workhorse that will never let you down not to mention the price is affordable. Good luck on your search
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:41 PM   #32
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Remember cfm is the main number you should be concerned about, Tank size does not relate to cfm. A 60 gallon tank can put out low cfm as this is about storage or compressor cycle time. A two stage compressor will usually out perform a single stage in the cfm delivery. Also 2 stage compressors will usually be oil bath and run quieter not like the direct drive which can be very loud. If you want to have something that will meet all your needs a 2 stage 60 gallon should be more than enough for the home garage. If you need a great air ratchet at a reasonable price go purchase a 1/2 inch earthquake at harbour freight this ratchet is a real workhorse that will never let you down not to mention the price is affordable. Good luck on your search
Thanks for the info.

I still have not pulled the trigger. Just don't know what to order. So many it's almost eeeny meeny meiny mo......
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Old 03-15-2014, 01:00 PM   #33
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Watch your local craigslist for a good used compressor. Mine is from the 70's and still going strong, although I did have to change the motor from a 3-phase to 1-phase it was still a great deal at $300. (plus $150 for motor)

If you find a Worthington or old Eaton for cheap snatch it up. Can still get parts for both even after all these years.

I bought a dinky hose on a whim from the local welding store, it's a 'Flexeel' hose, so far I LIKE it! We'll see how durability is, but it's so small OD I can leave it in the utility room coiled up so it'll probably last a good many years as little as I use it.
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Old 03-18-2014, 12:56 PM   #34
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Remember cfm is the main number you should be concerned about, Tank size does not relate to cfm. A 60 gallon tank can put out low cfm as this is about storage or compressor cycle time. A two stage compressor will usually out perform a single stage in the cfm delivery. Also 2 stage compressors will usually be oil bath and run quieter not like the direct drive which can be very loud. If you want to have something that will meet all your needs a 2 stage 60 gallon should be more than enough for the home garage. If you need a great air ratchet at a reasonable price go purchase a 1/2 inch earthquake at harbour freight this ratchet is a real workhorse that will never let you down not to mention the price is affordable. Good luck on your search

This statement on CFM is the most important......larger tank if you are thinking of painting will definitely be an asset. A water trap & lubricator combo unit are nice alternative to an air dryer, but the lubricator will need to be bypassed if you paint. Most low end air dryers aren't worth the money spent as they still allow moist air to enter the system. Basically good preventative maintenance is the cheapest and easiest way to manage the moisture.....drain the tank on a consistent basis. All in all, one can spend $500 and have a really good compressor that needs to be managed a bit.....or you can spend $5000 and have a great system that will take care of itself......I personally opt for the $500 and manage it myself!!
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Old 03-18-2014, 02:12 PM   #35
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I still have not pulled the trigger on this. Got the money sitting in PayPal but haven't made up my mind. Running the electric is kind of the stall right now though.

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Watch your local craigslist for a good used compressor. Mine is from the 70's and still going strong, although I did have to change the motor from a 3-phase to 1-phase it was still a great deal at $300. (plus $150 for motor)

If you find a Worthington or old Eaton for cheap snatch it up. Can still get parts for both even after all these years.

I bought a dinky hose on a whim from the local welding store, it's a 'Flexeel' hose, so far I LIKE it! We'll see how durability is, but it's so small OD I can leave it in the utility room coiled up so it'll probably last a good many years as little as I use it.
Isn't Craigs List where you pay to have a serial killer kill you?

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This statement on CFM is the most important......larger tank if you are thinking of painting will definitely be an asset. A water trap & lubricator combo unit are nice alternative to an air dryer, but the lubricator will need to be bypassed if you paint. Most low end air dryers aren't worth the money spent as they still allow moist air to enter the system. Basically good preventative maintenance is the cheapest and easiest way to manage the moisture.....drain the tank on a consistent basis. All in all, one can spend $500 and have a really good compressor that needs to be managed a bit.....or you can spend $5000 and have a great system that will take care of itself......I personally opt for the $500 and manage it myself!!
At 500.00 It's almost disposable anyway. hahaha
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:55 PM   #36
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I still have not pulled the trigger on this. Got the money sitting in PayPal but haven't made up my mind. Running the electric is kind of the stall right now though.

Isn't Craigs List where you pay to have a serial killer kill you?

At 500.00 It's almost disposable anyway. hahaha
I open carry a .45 on my hip, maybe it's what deters the psycho's lol

I finally rigged the starter on mine today, took a few pics... this is what you need, only maybe in a vert tank.

Dad painted cars for 30 years without any air cleaning system, but you have to be pretty careful, even then it doesn't take much to start getting defects. Saw contamination pin-holes all too often. The new system my brother put in the shop a few years back is amazing! But it's way overkill for a hobbyist.

Check it out, 1974 Worthington 2-stage. $300.00 plus $150.00 for the 5hp 1-phase electric motor. There are deals out there if you're patient.

In the second pic, if you look at the plumbing from air filter to the left cylinder a line runs to the right cylinder, then to the tank. That's a 2-stage (good) If both cylinders pulled from the air filter (inlet) and fed the tank, it would be a single stage. Single stage is fine, you just don't get the super high pressures that allow you to run cfm consuming tools all day long without pressure drops. 140 psi in a 80 gallon tank is a LOT of air!

I added a 3rd pic showing the difference between a 50' rubber 3/8 id conventional hose and the 25' Flexeel hose. The rubber hose weighs 10 pounds or so, the flexeel don't even weigh a pound. If this holds up well I'm going to get a larger id Flexeel in 50' for sure!
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:15 AM   #37
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What voltage does that run on?
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Old 03-19-2014, 05:14 AM   #38
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230v but I left the motor starter on, use it as an on/off switch.
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:11 AM   #39
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230v but I left the motor starter on, use it as an on/off switch.
I gotta just get off my ass and run some romex. But my outside box does not have any extra slots. Not sure how to handle that. I thought it did but it does not.
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:04 AM   #40
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I gotta just get off my ass and run some romex. But my outside box does not have any extra slots. Not sure how to handle that. I thought it did but it does not.
I have a separate service just for the shed it's in. If the city allows you to do your own electrical work it wouldn't be too expensive, but it would still be beneficial if you know an electrician that can keep you to code.

I was really fortunate that the shed is right at the service drop, so wire runs were minimal.

I might try my small compressor, it's a 115v, on my pickup lug nuts later just to see what happens. If I do I'll let you know how it did.

I just realized I may be recommending an elephant gun to someone that just wants to shoot rabbits and the occasional coyote
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:24 AM   #41
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I have a separate service just for the shed it's in. If the city allows you to do your own electrical work it wouldn't be too expensive, but it would still be beneficial if you know an electrician that can keep you to code.

I was really fortunate that the shed is right at the service drop, so wire runs were minimal.

I might try my small compressor, it's a 115v, on my pickup lug nuts later just to see what happens. If I do I'll let you know how it did.

I just realized I may be recommending an elephant gun to someone that just wants to shoot rabbits and the occasional coyote
Ya but I don't want anything to be left of the Rabbit or Coyote. haha

My garage is at the furthest point away from my electric box. I installed a brand new box and seperated the meter after Katrina pulled the whole power mast off of the house. Never got it inspected and got lucky that it was still declared emergency so they did not look for my certificate of inspection. I can run one seperate after the fact without detection no problem but I'd have to get a different face inside or put a seperate panel inside as well. Might just run the wire and put a box in the garage.
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:48 PM   #42
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Ya but I don't want anything to be left of the Rabbit or Coyote. haha

My garage is at the furthest point away from my electric box. I installed a brand new box and seperated the meter after Katrina pulled the whole power mast off of the house. Never got it inspected and got lucky that it was still declared emergency so they did not look for my certificate of inspection. I can run one seperate after the fact without detection no problem but I'd have to get a different face inside or put a seperate panel inside as well. Might just run the wire and put a box in the garage.


Going back to the problem that started it all.....
I did a quick test with a ~300 lb ft torque wrench on my portable compressor set at 90 psi, it removed a lug nut pretty easy.

I had a small air leak at the wrench just because I was too lazy to grab a wrench and tighten the fitting, but it still kicked on pretty often just messing around. I actually got the small one for inflating tires and running nail guns which it does just fine. I was curious if it would spin a torque wrench, even though I don't think it spun it at 100% of it's spec it was still enough to loosen that lug nut.
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:19 PM   #43
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That's the ticket right there.
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:32 PM   #44
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Is that similar to your portable? Or do you have another type?
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:41 PM   #45
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Is that similar to your portable? Or do you have another type?
Right now I have a 3 gallon pancake compressor with a short line to a 10 gallon overflow tank. Plenty of air but the CFM sucks.
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:13 PM   #46
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The problem with DIY type compressors, the motors tend to be over-rated. I have an OLD Worthington industrial compressor that uses a 1.5hp 220v motor, that motor is a solid 1.5 hp. A true 1.5 hp 110v motor would draw almost 20 amps, and I think that's about the upper limit for household 110v wiring, most breakers are 15amp.

In other words, when they advertise a 2hp 110v electric motor they're WAY overrating the hp, 2hp 110v would need close to 30 amps to run.

If there are any electricians, please correct me if I'm off

{edit} they're probably also overrating their pumps cfm and volume, be aware.
2 hp at 120Volts(110 really doesn't exist anymore, unless you have voltage drop) but off the top of my head?? 1 HP =746 watts @120 volts= 6.2 amps x2=12.4 amps@ 80% of 15 amps(12) your ok with a 15 amp breaker
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:15 PM   #47
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Old 03-20-2014, 10:52 PM   #48
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You guys keep changing the numbers, I'm an old man tired of keeping up lol

110, 115, 120, can't they all just get along?

Thanks for the input
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